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Any surfer out there?
I love avin a burn and getting out in the ocean. I ride a 7'6 minimal which I well and truely love. It''ll ride anything from 1 foot mush upto head height monsters. Also got 6'6 shortboard which is a lot quicker, light and agile.
When I have a toke and go out shit just seems better and I have less fear when out on the big swells.
I used to skate, but the injuries where getting the better of me. Surfing is pure soul food
P
Just heading out now...I surfed all my life in Hawaii California..Baja mexico afrika...saipan islands..and many other places...
Its my escape from this hectic world we live in..and the waves...take me away from it..the ocean swell rolls in from thousands of miles and you ride..it...and there wont be another like it...even after we humans are long gone...there will always be waves.......
..only a surfer knows this feeling...
aloha...
keep surfing for peace...
I am land locked right now, but have spent time in Cali, and hawaii.
I named My son Curren..... after Tom Curren. One of My favorites.
Surfing is the Best, sport, activity, life style there is....IMO.
Rip some for me guys.......
its never too late to surf m8....
I remember surfing Rincon one cold winter day with my brother....
its was slightly on shore and about 2 to 4 feet..(from the back)..just a few guys out...and I saw this guy in a silver ripcurl wetsuit on the beach...holding a channel island surfboard 6 'o..looked at us surfing the set waves and making it all the way down the line...being straight from Hawaii... i didnt know whos who in the surfing world in cali at that time...
he pulled up the zipper and paddled out towards us...there was just a handful of guys out and most started heading in...57 degree water temp can play tricks on your body , even in a wetsuit..He smiled not saying a word..then he paddled outside...way outside...i thougth eh brah..where he en goin eh..this haole..then out of nowhere this big set rolled in ..and he was at the peak...dropped in , did a hard bottom turn , and hit the lip hard...i duck dived under the wave just to see it from the back...I thought there was no way he was going to make this wave , its too fast....his board glided across the top of the wave as it was breaking...it was my first look at a floater.....gliding smoothly over the breakng wave..it looked slow motion , and his calmness of making it look easy....just blew me away....this kid...in the silver wetsuit...became a famous world champion time after time...and noone could stop him...this was Tommy Curren...
only a surfer know....
Aloha
i bodyboard
yeah dudes i know how you feel... lov the occasional toke and surf.......hellla yeh
Your story gave me Goose bumps... I love that story.....Quote:
Originally Posted by naluman
I will be in the ocean again one day...... I have to Teach my son to surf.
In his Time..Tom Curren was unstopable... like you said made it look easy.
we called it Hawaii style, 2-4 foot from the back, means it has a a 4- 8 foot face... Nice day..........Quote:
Originally Posted by naluman
Ahhh the good ole days...............
man i love surfin. dont do it much but its hard to beat ridin a wave. even just sittin out there. one of the most pieceful places you could be. well on a calm day anyways.
Never seen a ocean in person :(
The coolest thing is that you just sit and watch the waves... it will put you in a trance......Quote:
Originally Posted by Kwali
Kwali.... what i can put into words is how POWERFUL waves are....