Quote Originally Posted by naluman
its never too late to surf m8....
I remember surfing Rincon one cold winter day with my brother....
its was slightly on shore and about 2 to 4 feet..(from the back)..just a few guys out...and I saw this guy in a silver ripcurl wetsuit on the beach...holding a channel island surfboard 6 'o..looked at us surfing the set waves and making it all the way down the line...being straight from Hawaii... i didnt know whos who in the surfing world in cali at that time...
he pulled up the zipper and paddled out towards us...there was just a handful of guys out and most started heading in...57 degree water temp can play tricks on your body , even in a wetsuit..He smiled not saying a word..then he paddled outside...way outside...i thougth eh brah..where he en goin eh..this haole..then out of nowhere this big set rolled in ..and he was at the peak...dropped in , did a hard bottom turn , and hit the lip hard...i duck dived under the wave just to see it from the back...I thought there was no way he was going to make this wave , its too fast....his board glided across the top of the wave as it was breaking...it was my first look at a floater.....gliding smoothly over the breakng wave..it looked slow motion , and his calmness of making it look easy....just blew me away....this kid...in the silver wetsuit...became a famous world champion time after time...and noone could stop him...this was Tommy Curren...

only a surfer know....

Aloha
we called it Hawaii style, 2-4 foot from the back, means it has a a 4- 8 foot face... Nice day..........


Ahhh the good ole days...............