i always use botanicare's pure blend pro line. i use grow for veg, and bloom for flowering (obviously), and liquid karma throughout. i use coir and i get really good results everytime.
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i always use botanicare's pure blend pro line. i use grow for veg, and bloom for flowering (obviously), and liquid karma throughout. i use coir and i get really good results everytime.
thanks for that info and the link evilgunny, every bit of help is really needed and much appreciated :thumbsup:
well my main problem is that ive used cheap crappy growbag soil but i did add lots of vermiculite and perlite before i potted them and mixed it well but i added nutes as well when there was already nutes added by the growbag company. ive did what Rusty said and flushed them really well then left them for 3 days to dry out most of the water in the pots so i can water them again with decent water. because my nutes and bigbud havent yet arrived from the hydroponics shop im gonna just use tomatoe feed and use according to the directions. they have been watered and fed with tomatoe feed today and i can honistly say they are starting to look loads better though the buds are still small.
i think a lot of the reason why the buds look so small is because of all the stretch which of course spreads all the buds out. well im approaching week 5 now swiftly so its fingers crossed that they start to grow bigger buds :)
i have another question while i am here :) me and my brother have been having an argument about flowering and he says the first 2 weeks you dont count as its called preflower stage and then after the preflower stage you count 6 - 8 weeks of main flowering. so in esssence he is trying to say that its really 8 - 10 weeks of flowering :mad:
i keep saying you start counting the weeks from the day you change to 12/12 cycle. can anyone please put our argument to rest because he is really starting to bug me :( the seeds i have say 6 - 8 weeks of flowering but do i add an extra 2 weeks on top for preflower stage too? thanks
A lot depends on maturity level when you put 'em into flower. If you put them in there before they start showing preflowers, then you wait, and start counting from the point they start showing the calyxs and pistols.
If they are showing preflowers prior to switching, then technically the clock has started clicking, but is on 'pause' till ambient conditions warrant flowering.
Either way, the plant's metabolism takes a week or two to switch from vegetative growth, to the flowering cycle...depending on growroom specifics and strain. I add this adjustment period to the flowering time.
I pretty much stopped getting caught-up in worrying about actual flower times, as there are many factors that can delay the time to maturity, yet virtually none to speed-up the process. Stuff like heat, cold, ph fluctuatuions, over/undernute, old bulbs, crappy soil...are stresses that will affect the ladies.
Breeders' strain info is a guideline, not cold-hard fact. Unless you are using their grow techniques, their nutes, their bulbs, their pots, and their growroom controls, your results may vary. :thumbsup:
ahh nicely put and easy to understand :)
basically they were all clones and grew to about 1ft high (some shorter) and i put them into the flowering room before any signs of preflower so i guess i should allow an extra week or two and im taking into considderation all the crappy soil and over nutes ive gave them not to mention the poor PH levels in the water.
im still having troubles finding some PH callibration fluid 7.01 so far all i can see it callibration fluid 7 or 7.00 so im not sure if that would do the same trick?
now they are in week 5 i notice i have begun to smell them even though i got a brand new filter connected (100mm ducting type) so i figure i have a small leak somewhere on the tube inside the tent so thats another task for me to do this week before they really start to honk the place out :D
after your good advice Rusty about flushing and PH and feeding they are really starting to look better, bob marley would be proud :rastasmoke:
thanks :)
Is he another grower? <kidding> Thanks, and best of wishes for further success. :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by sirruler
Milwaukee ph pens are programmed to recognize 7.01 calibration solution, but if you do not also purchase the storage solution, I'd think about getting the Milwaukee 4.01 calibration solution. They recommend this on the instruction sheet, but don't mention it at all in the product info prior to purchase. You can't let the electrode dry, or it will kill it's accuracy.
Discount Hydro (dot com) has what you need. Search Milwaukee ph pen once there, it'll take you to the proper page. :jointsmile:
will look for that thanks. when i remove the cap there is only a LED but it doesnt look as though it can be removed not that i tried. i only payed £9.08p for it on eBay :D it said it was used only once but i think they all say that just to sell it lol
anyway the lights have been off for about 2 hours now and the smel is deffo getting stronger. seems pointless having a fan and filter in there cos the smell still gets out :D everything i got is new and being used for the first time but where they are starting to stink it makes life hard for me cos i cant take all the plants out to look for the leak cos they stink out my home :wtf: i might use a joshstick and poke it about to see where the smoke gets sucked out from, cant think of anything else.
Re-reading my post, seems I might not have been all that clear about the claibration solutions. If you can't afford both the calib. solution and the electrode storage stuff, the pen's instructions say that the 4.01 calib. solution can be used for electrode storage, too. (in case other members are in the same boat)
Might want to get the electrode (the LED looking thing) into water at the very least, and let it soak overnight before use, however white or brown vinegar lasts longer, and it doesn't let algae grow. Not sure it will help now, though.
You might want to take it to an aquarium store to see if they can determine it's accuracy for ya in both the saltwater (8.3 ph) and freshwater tanks, (7.0 ph) if they keep their tanks right on the money. Accuracy within a point or two is still workable, but keep in mind the difference when actually using it, and look for any wild/unusual ph swings. (don't trust it too much, lol)
i have no idea how long those LED's last anyway lol i will however get that fluid as soon as i am able too (need money first lol)
i was also gonna say about boiled water, when i grew my very first plants i used boiled water poured into a large bucket and left over night or a few days and they grew excellent with no probs at all but since using water directly from the tap well its been nothing but probs. im wondering if boiled water or (pre boiled) is best to use? i did take a PH reading of tap water and pre boiled water and there was a huge ph difference but thats taking into consideration that the ph meter hasnt been calibrated yet. there was a difference of about 1.2 because the tap water was reading at 7.9 and the pro boiled water next day read 6.7.
maybe it would be cheaper to hire some indians to come do their rain dance when ever i need to water the girls :D
Rain is no good for growing cannabis. Too many contaminates and too acidic. So ixnay on the ativesna, lol.
Water temp affects ph readings. Were you perhaps testing cold water from the tap against room temp water?
dam now thats something i didnt think about, yup i tested the water in the bucket at room temp and the water from the tap was tested strait away at a different temp.
now you have me scratching my head lol i have a few video documenterys on growing and most say that rain water is the best as its more pure and the ph is more stable. i guess this could also depend highly on where in the world the rain falls.