Iā??m using 2 switchable (HPS/MH 120/240) digital adjustable (600w, 800w 1000w) ballastsQuote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Pimp
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Iā??m using 2 switchable (HPS/MH 120/240) digital adjustable (600w, 800w 1000w) ballastsQuote:
Originally Posted by Dutch Pimp
It will work in your ballast then. You'll just need to plug it into a 220v outlet.
I've inverstigated this further since I replied last too. The only other downfall to these bulbs is the short lifespan of 6000 hours!
I suggest you look into these too.
Bulb: EYE Hortilux BLUE
Tech spec: http://www.eyehortilux.com/tb/blue/E...2-78-57945.pdf
The specrul intensity in the Blue and Reds are insane. If the charts are correct it FAR outperforms all other grow bulbs.
try ushio bulbs they make a great hps blue light google itQuote:
Originally Posted by 420meds
Do believe the typical HPS is missing something in the blue spectrum for bloom. I took somebodys advice and sprinkled the bloom chamber with Daylight spectrum cfls which have a bluish tint to the emitted light. Seemed to help a bunch and was not real pricey. The plants got a bunch happier quick. This be in addition to the usual 400 Watt HPS overhead.
Goober
I've gathered a lot of info since I last read this thread.
First off I too am using some 5000k CFLs to get some extra blue. However mine are in a home made hood intended just to start plants.
OK,
So, (hope I have this all straight). Early Red light is good because Spring time also produces red while the sun rises to it's summer high where it produces a lot of Blue. Thus Red light is beneficial to both Flower and sprouting. However Blue light is best for Vegitative growth(mid summer at mid day).
Here is why:
In the spring the lower intensity of red light is less harmful to the seed then intense blue. (beyond that no diff!)
The summer sun produces a LOT of blue light during mid day(away from the horizon) However it does produce Red during sun rise and set. The Plants Chloraphyl A (:wtf:<sp) uses Blue light to produce the proper sugars and hormones for the plant to produce more leaves. The morning and evening reds also help but not SO important at this stage of growth. It evolved this way in responce to the normal summer sun frequencies! :thumbsup: This causes the plant to grow bushy and dence.
When fall starts rolling around, the suns path in the sky moves closer to the horizon. The refraction of the suns light off the atmosphere turns it more red (although still producing a lot of blue at mid day!). Red light is used by Chloraphyl B. Which produces slightly different sugars and hormones then Chloaphyl A. The plant has evolved to use this increase of red light, and increase in the different hormones to assist in producing the flowers. Thus although the plant is not absolutely dependant on this red light to flower. The plant HAS evolved to use more of these chemicals produced by chloraphyl B for making the flowers.
So, If you use HPS(high red) for everything the plants may be taller and have fewer branches(lacks chloraphyl A's sugars and hormones causing mild streching). The buds may still grow pretty well though! after all it had all the right stuff to flower.
If you use MH(high blue) for all stages. The plants will be shorter and bushier(very healthy bush), but the flowers will be small due to the shortage of the correct sugars and hormones the red light would've produced.
If you use MH to veg, then switch to HPS for flower. You'll see bushy healthy plants. The flowers will be bigger and have more flowers due to so many branches forming during veg (getting into shading issues now). Only issue is the mild shortage of blue during flower. This may lead to some of the leaves dying off, and some streching DURING flowering.
If you use both the entire time time. You get shorter bushier plants high in all the sugars and hormones both A and B produce. The plants leaves will stay as healthy as possible during flowering(yellowing is still possible). The flowers themselves will be larger simply because the plant has everything it needs to keep leaves healthy AND produce flowers. streaching during flowering is also reduced.
So there's your answer. Not using blue during flower can cause some streching. :D
Hope you get more out of that then just what you asked. :thumbsup:
Good luck :thumbsup:
add a couple 42w blue cfl's, helps with stretching.
I'll try to answer this question the best I can with my experience! You must be talking about the new hps blue by hortilux?, I just recently purchased a metal halide eye hortilux blue 400 watt, what I understand the HPS version by hortlux is not as good as the mh eye hortilux blue for veg to flower, another words from beginning to end my understanding is the eye hortilux blue mh has a better all round spectrum for vegetative and flower!, I recently just purchased this lamp eye hortilux mh blue 400w and a brand-new hydrofarm ballast mh hps combo and a new reflector, prior to this we were using just a regular 400 W metal halide and old ballast, and I'm understanding without a doubt that the MH eye hortilux blue has got more spectral energy shown by the graph on the box this one came in than the HPS blue by hortilux, in comparison, there is no doubt about this! The M H blue ran $125 for me at the Hydro store here, yes it's expensive but if you could see what it's doing for us at the time compared to standard metal halide you would probley drop your jaw very vigerous growth 5 inches a day with folage to follow, now I'm sure you are used to HPS doing the flowering job? But I can tell you right now if you took a mh standard from the Hydro store no matter what it is brand wise, and at the same time you took an HPS standard at the Hydro store both of them 400 W you would have to add 17 to 24% spectral energy from both hpa and mh and put them into one lamp such as the eye hortilux blue mh and that's the combination you have in this mh eye hortilux blue! I have done the research looked at all the charts and graphs and you're adding 17-24% from mh and standard hps together each seperately in one with the eye hortilux blue, you can not get a better spectral energy for start to finish such as this lamp I have just mentioned so it's better than HPS alone of any kind! i know i went off the subject for you but just what ive explained about this lamp mh eye hortilux blue i would think you mite want to reconsider your start to flower lamp?? So thats why i explained it this way, if you were you use a standard mh for veg yes you would still come ahead using the super blue hotilux hps for flower over standard hps cuz theyve added more spectrums to the new hps over standard hps,but if you want one lamp that does better than both from start to finish alone its the eye hortilux mh blue that will do it and i have seen the results first hand we have it as you know,and its told by many folks on here that it grows the most robust buds theyve ever seen short of outdoors and even matching that!!!hope this helps my freind, cherokeeQuote:
Originally Posted by 420meds
ok 420,cherokee again ,weather dual arc or single arc for flowering, your plants will take the spectrum they need and disregard the rest during flower so the extre blue could only help with stretch problems hps is known for it cant hurt and can only help during flower, the blue is a benefit more than not if you dont want alot of stretching? hope i understood ya correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by 420meds