Procyon vs UFO LED

Hey Weezard, I'm 4 1/2 weeks into the "No UVb for Me" experiment nothing real to report. The WR is putting on trics like usual tho.

I also am looking forward to see how Ledtime's lights turn out and do, I liked his approach on this.

And the 5th Rutle? Are you saying that "all you need is cash"?

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Originally Posted by macnasty

I'm glad you mentioned SOG, because that's exactly what I have in mind. And the CO2 as well. Running an HPS I have some significant heat issues, which disqualifies me from making good use of it, but with LED's I figure I can make up for some of the lack of light power by implementing CO2. And though I've never used it myself, I've heard it can increase yields by about 20%. If that number is realistic, that means I'll only have to provide 80% of the light I'm currently pumping with my HPS to get the same results. One step closer already, and the LED hasn't even turned on yet!]

Actually the co2 will allow you to get away with a whole lot more heat, keep the plant from shutting down respiration at high temps, where growth slows down as heat goes up. At 100F degrees it could add 100% more growth (something vs. nothing)

I'm happy to hear that the hybrid T5/LED puts the equivalent HID to shame. Another reason I want to switch to LED is that I can distribute the light much more evenly across the entire canopy than with a single light.

It should there really is no energy savings with it.

About your last point; thanks for clarifying for me from an authoritative source the truth that a procyon is not equivalent to a 400 W HID. To tell you the truth, I never believed that drum racketting anyway. My question is, is it reasonable to assume that 2 of these 90W lights would equal a single 400 W HID? If so, I am sold. Perhaps I'll throw in some T8's for good measure, or some T5's if I can find some.

Crabbyback, a proud Porcyon user confirms what I've seen. She also has it right about using a cheap source like fluorescents to fill out any mising light spectrum

In sum: the even light distribution, [potentially] lower energy consumption, and opportunity to utilize CO2 without the nuisance of running a continuous exhaust seems irrestable to a learning grower such as myself.

Probably the best part of the whole LED experience, low heat production and the ability to contain co2 better equals higher production.

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But as much as I like science and believe in the law of physics, there is something of a black art to LEDs.....probably explains why we need a Weezard around.:)

[quote=oldmac] I quickly did a "quick and dirty" grow in 2- 120 site EZ-clonners from start to finish (they say you can't grow to compeletion in a cloner, but hey the plants don't know that).QUOTE]

thats funny, my kinda grower

so mac you think i veg, fit 100 clones in dixie cups for month under a procyon?

The 90W dual-blue band I'm working with is doing a fantastic job. I've been really poking a stick however. I LST'd my smallest plant of my three and it's really starting to get it in gear now.

On my two bigger plants, I tied them down for a few hours the other day then untied them. Their main stem is now more of an S shape without being tied down. But they are strong! It's allowing me to get light lower without really LST'ing them all the way. Just some minor bending here and there.

If I were to start all over again I would LST from an earlier point and bring the main stem all the way around the rim allowing as much light to the plant as possible. I think that is the best way to go with LED.

The two spot on wavelengths in the blue end seem to be doing a real bang up job so far.

When it comes to flowering I might just keep this 90W in there and then add the 120W. We'll see. That would definitely help with any stretching issues.

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Originally Posted by oldmac

Hey Weezard, I'm 4 1/2 weeks into the "No UVb for Me" experiment nothing real to report. The WR is putting on trics like usual tho.

I also am looking forward to see how Ledtime's lights turn out and do, I liked his approach on this.

And the 5th Rutle? Are you saying that "all you need is cash"?

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"I have always felt, in the back of my mind, Cheese and Onions"

Leggy Mountbatten

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If the day ever dawns that my innies match my outies.
I will say that LEDs have arrived.

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Hmmm...

My HPS and MH never really matched my outdoor grows in terms of thick vigourous growth, somy personal definition is when they match HID lamps.

But they will have really arrived when they cost the same as HID.

Then HID will meet the same fate as Kodachrome.

M.P.

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Originally Posted by MerryPrankstr

Hmmm...

My HPS and MH never really matched my outdoor grows in terms of thick vigourous growth, somy personal definition is when they match HID lamps.

Hence, the "grinnie".

However, as the "VOG" thickens here and obscures the sun,
any indoor light looks brighter every day.

But they will have really arrived when they cost the same as HID.

From your mouth to Cree's ears!

Then HID will meet the same fate as Kodachrome.

M.P.

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And betamax!

No, wait, Beta was superior to VHS in quality!:D

Dat's why I no let marketing choose my folly. :D:D

My outdoor girls are almost ready to ravish.
I'll try to do an un-biased bio-assay vs. the indoor, (no UV),
budz.:rasta:
Not gonna be easy.
1 hit being 2 much, and all.:stoned:

More "dark" than artsy.
Weeze

thats funny, my kinda grower

so mac you think i veg, fit 100 clones in dixie cups for month under a procyon? -phatsesh101

Well imho a procyon does a great job at 2'x2' but might cover up to a little more. How big in diameter are your dixie cups? Do some math and figure it, or if you have the cups, lay them out as an engineering model and measure it.
I used 2 mounted side by side on a light rail and covered 3'x5' over moms (kept abt 2-3' tall) and seedlings and/or rooted clones on raised shelfs to keep all the top hieghts the same. The lightrail changes the angle of attack of the light, shading and unshading parts of the plant. It helps with the penertration issue. ;)

(sorry to screw up the post slightly)

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Originally Posted by ledtime

The 90W dual-blue band I'm working with is doing a fantastic job. I've been really poking a stick however. I LST'd my smallest plant of my three and it's really starting to get it in gear now.

On my two bigger plants, I tied them down for a few hours the other day then untied them. Their main stem is now more of an S shape without being tied down. But they are strong! It's allowing me to get light lower without really LST'ing them all the way. Just some minor bending here and there.

If I were to start all over again I would LST from an earlier point and bring the main stem all the way around the rim allowing as much light to the plant as possible. I think that is the best way to go with LED.

The two spot on wavelengths in the blue end seem to be doing a real bang up job so far.

When it comes to flowering I might just keep this 90W in there and then add the 120W. We'll see. That would definitely help with any stretching issues.

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You need to talk with CrabbyBack (if you haven't already) she's into that plant bondage thing, you know tying it down and stuff. She described her set up and tying down technique on a thread by Horsemanrocks under Hydo section (calling all scroggers).

I took the plunge and got a 300w Grow Panel Pro from Sunshine Systems. First thing I did when I took it out of the box was look for the UL logo, but alas, there was nothing. Fortunately, it seems like a very good design. The thing runs super cool- pretty much as cool as the laptop I'm typing on. It's super quiet, very light and easy to suspend, and you don't have to put it right on top of the plants, since the light is so intense in the blue/red part of the spectrum. The directions recommend 1.5-2.0 meters distance from the top of the plants. So there's none of the constant shifting to keep the HPS a cubit away from the plants and all.

I sat down and figured out the cost, and for $1,300 you can get the 300w LED, or you can go Old School and do the 1000w set up with a ballast, bulb, reflector, ducting, duct fans, and all that for about $600. The selling point is that the LED set up pays for itself within a year from just the energy savings and you can pretty much keep it on for 7 years straight, since the LEDs last so long. I've had very nice results with it so far, and I don't get as much burning due to water/nute splashing on leaves or the leaves getting too close to the HPS bulb.