AAAARRGGHH!!! I DONT UNDERSTAND!

[faithlessxxx]

Yeah, all good ideas. I just found another fan thats twice as powerful for just another 5 bucks, 720m3/h which I think is around 430CFM, so I'm going to carefully lift mine down on monday, I think its still looking good enough to return in its box, and get the other one:

http://www.swedish-growsystems.se/we...dish/13007.gif

Thanks for all the input guys though, I hope this one will improve things.

[latewood]

OK...sorry, I had website and local computer issues all day...Still do really...

I have a couple ideas...1st the idea to straighten out the ductwork is a good, and if you have to set up shelves or something and pull them out and adjust in order to get a grow in that room under cooler temps...then so be it.

As far as worrying that the plants would be above the lower intake of cool air...don't worry. the point is; you need the air intake at the bottom...not the plants...they can be anywhere. you just want to cycle air.

Raising the plants might even allow the lower intake to flow better. From your drawing It looks like the cool air would rise above the light immediately...I hope you can work this out. I do understand the frustration of not being able to relieve heat issues.

[faithlessxxx]

OK, so I just installed a huge muther-effing 720m3/h fan which I think is around 430CFM in a room about 1.2m * 1.8m.

And its still fuuking 28c in there with only a 250HPS and I need to be able to put another 400 watts of HPS in there...

What the friggin hell am I supposed to do???

:S4:

[faithlessxxx]

Anyone want to prevent my poor old mom getting a phone call in the middle of the night saying that her son seems to have decapitated himself in a bizarre horticultural ventilation system suicide?

[dusto2k3]

you do that, you'll never get it right...LoL,,,dam tho, do you have pic of the room?

[faithlessxxx]

I cant find the bleeding adapter to recharge my friggin camera...I have a theory though, that I'm testing now. The inlet and the exhaust holes are on the same wall. On the outside side of the wall, where the fresh air is taken from, and where the warm air is expelled, is the hallway and entrance to my apartment. Now that area is sort of semi-closed off into a boxed corner sort of area, which is not much bigger than the grow room. Perhaps 2m * 1.8m and 3m tall. That has one open wall into the bigger hall, but its still a bit enclosed. I think that area may be filling with the warm exhaust air, so that the intake air even though its low down, is sucking in warm air. I'm experimenting right now.
Any thoughts?

[faithlessxxx]

Hang on, Ill get a pic with my phone camera

[joe-grow]

I try not to post while high, but I thought I'd throw this out there anyway .... when designing my cabinet, I seem to recall reading somewhere that the intake should be at least slightly larger than your exhaust, particularly if you are not using a fan to pull the air back into the cabinet (passive air flow?). This also helps replenish CO2 levels.

So, I don't think it's a problem of not enough air being pulled 'out' of the room, but not enough being pulled 'in'. I have been known to have bouts of dyslexia, especially when high, so I would research this a bit.

In any event, I wish you luck finding a resolution! I know all too well how bad heat can be.

[faithlessxxx]

Sorry about awful pics...
1. Intake
2. fan and lamp everything hanging temporarily till I solve the problems
3. exit, about 1.70m above the intake. Another 400W HPS will go up once this is sorted out.
4. the gals

Hmmm, it seems room temps and therefore the temps of air intake were higher than I thought...I think exhaust should always be bigger than intake though...

[Chronic Chrissy]

If your exhaust is helped by a fan I would make the intake hole bigger than the exhaust.When I first started tweeking my flower room I found that one 6" exhaust fan hole sucked out way more air then 6 4" holes could handle. Once I put in more intake holes the temp stabilized better.