RacerX's recirculating 16 bucket dwc "Grow Log"

[Racerx]

Im killing some time so I thought Id start my new hydro grow log and share some of the planning. Pictures soon.

I have been in the process of building a 16 bucket (5 gal) recirculating deep water culture hydroponic system for a while. Only a few weeks left before completion. Its been a large endevoir and I really wanted to share the cost of setting something like this up, especially if you buy the stuff new.

A little background: The room is 10.5x11.5x8 feet with a closet large enough to fit both the 55 gallon gravity reservoir and the 30 gallon control reservoir (where the water pump sits). We are doing 4 rows of 4 plants. 2 plants from 2 different rows will sit underneith a Lumatek 750 watt digital lamp with an 8" aircooled hood. We bit the bullet and upgraded from 600s to 750s. We actually have 3 750s and decided to stay with 1 600 to see if we can notice a considerable difference in product/weight. I am betting already that it is This gives around 7500 lumens per square foot or 47 watts per square foot. Normally 47watts/sqft is not ideal for such large plants but since these are 750 digitals, its decievingly more then enough.

So here is a list of everything we needed to complete the room. This doesnt include a lot of other random things such as screws, nails, anchoring hooks for the lights, etc. But it includes the majority and major stuff. As far as the small parts go...there are a few extra parts thrown into the numbers incase anything breaks. *NOTE* Blazeoneup from Cannagraphic is the one responsible for compiling the list of parts needed for the actual hydro system (his own list and recipe on Cannagraphic is for a 12 buckets so its been modified).

4 x Lumatek 750 watt digital ballasts (240v), with Cool Reflector XL 8" aircooled hoods and 750 watt bulbs
4 x Lamp Yo-Yos (these are an extra cost but every little thing that is made easier counts)
CO2 PPM meter/controller (indepedent from the lights controller, but wont turn on during the off hours)
CO2 regulator
CO2 tank
6 socket 240v electrical box (box takes one single 240 connection and turns it into 6 smaller slant eyes. Same as say a CAP MC8 but homemade)
1/4 horsepower reservoir chiller
60 pint dehumidifier
2 x 10" 1100cfm ultraquiet inline fans w/ speed controllers
500gph water pump
1 x 85 watt air pump and 1 x 35 watt air pump, diffused into 18 lines total (one for each bucket, 1 for the control res and 1 for the large res)
25 feet of 8" ducting (You might need more)
15 feet of 10" ducting
8" to 8" duct connector (for passive intake)
100 feet of poly (white/black) plastic
Hanna TDS pen (already have a pH)
8", and 10" hose clamps (number depends. Around 10 8" and 4 10")
16 5 gallon black buckets (if you get white, spray paint them)
16 5 gal bucket tops (or you can buy the tops with the netpots already in them. My problem with this is that I transplant the netpots so they dont work for me)
16 heavy duty american agritech 5" netpots
10L bag of hydroton expanded clay balls
16 x 8" airstones
20 3/4" elbows
20 3/4" T's
20 3/4" ebb n flow fittings
26 ebb n flow screens
4 3/4" shut off valves
2 1/2" ebbnflow fittings
24 1/4" straight barbs
70 7/8" hose clamps
16 1/4" barbed elbows
4 1/2" shutoff valves
4 1/2" end caps
120' of 3/4 ID tubing
100' of 1/4" ID tubing
50' of 1/4" ID tubing
1 float valve
3 sheets of 4'x8' foam soundboard (Home Depot)
waterproof epoxy (not even really needed but nice to have incase)

Tools (only for building the hydro setup, not including hammers, saw, etc for the room and ducting, etc):
1x Drill
1x 3/16" bit
1x 3/8" bit
1x 1&1/4" hole saw bit with starter bit
1x Needle nose plyers
1x sharp knife
1x heavy duty scissors

Total Approx Cost = $5000 (ill give a more accurate price list this weekend as far as individual costs, etc).

We have to build a seperate small area around the only window in the room, as this is where the room will passively intake cold air from. With this design no one would ever suspect anything by looking in the window because you cannot see anything and it looks falsely deep. This is much safer since the window will be somewhat open (locked in slightly open position). A small CFL turns on once in awhile to simulate someone using the room normally. Ive use this before and its great.

A 10" fan sits in the attic and exhausts the 4 hoods and another independent 10" fan exhausts the room itself from CO2/heat. 2 lights go inline so there are only two 8" lines into the 10" line. Ideally, the room is going to be so cold that we will need to turn off the aircooling in order to help heat the room. If this is the case, we will move down to only one 10" fan and keep the ends of the hoods open and just draw the CO2 right out of there. This would save energy, make the thing more low key, and simplify things. These days if we dont turn the heater on...the room gets to around 55 degrees or cooler in a matter of hours. Even when its sunny, due to its shady location.

The clones are starting out in 5.5" netpots and hydroton in 18 gallon Rubbermaid "roughneck" storage containers. There are 6 pots per container, so there are 3 of them. They are all powered by one 35 watt air pump that does 2 large airstones per bucket. This are a ton of bubbles. Water starts slightly above the bottom of the pot. After roots poke, its dropped a couple inches below. Once they hang, down to around 4-5". The net pots are rotated softly everyday to discourage the roots from intertwining because of their close proximity. They will veg for 2.5 more weeks in these tubs until they are ready to go into the big room. This is just enough time to get them rooted without getting them too tangled. There are a few reasons we do this; namely its a space and electricity issue. The clones can only take a little light in the beginning (light sits about 4 feet above the clones at first) so 1 light is plenty to start with. We have a space issue so this allows us to do everything in a much smaller and easier to control closet instead of using the large flowering room and not taking advantage of it. At 2.5 weeks more veg they get transplanted into the 5 gallon buckets for another 2.5 weeks of veg under the final configuration; 5 weeks veg total.

One week before flowering we turn on CO2. We use a PPM matched with the nutrient PPM. CO2 timing schedule is not 100% yet, depends on how long it takes for the room to get warm, etc. 50mins on and 15 off with venting, is the general plan to shoot for. CO2 goes on until 2 weeks before harvest. 1/2/3 for nutrient grow recipe and 3/2/1 for bloom. Unsure of the Big Bud additive I normally use, as its being argued that if you use a 3/2/1 then the PPM is too high with the Big Bud or the levels of Bloom, etc are not powerful enough if the PPM is within spec. Well see. I pushed 1800 ppm on my last DWC grow and Ive never seen a plant love it so much.

Thats about it for now. Pictures later today when the camera is charged.

Racerx Reviewed by Racerx on 12-16-2006. RacerX's recirculating 16 bucket dwc "Grow Log" Im killing some time so I thought Id start my new hydro grow log and share some of the planning. Pictures soon. I have been in the process of building a 16 bucket (5 gal) recirculating deep water culture hydroponic system for a while. Only a few weeks left before completion. Its been a large endevoir and I really wanted to share the cost of setting something like this up, especially if you buy the stuff new. A little background: The room is 10.5x11.5x8 feet with a closet large Rating: 5

[JackdaWack]

Pics would be great, this hydro sytem u can buy 500 pre made, i think its one of the best.

[CaliJay]

Hey RX...question...Why not use a timer to shut down the Co2 during lights out? Is it cheaper to get the all in one controller to regulate ppms and shut off power to the monitor?

[Racerx]

Hey RX...question...Why not use a timer to shut down the Co2 during lights out? Is it cheaper to get the all in one controller to regulate ppms and shut off power to the monitor?

Its cheaper...but when your spending this much anyways, why not just do it once and do it right. I dont want independent timers and such...its just asking for problems.

Here are some crappy pictures to give you an idea of how the operation is started, before being transplanted. This was right after transplanting into the hydroton so the light is very high. Its around 2.5-3 feet above the clones until they start showing a little more roots. The closet and hood is exhausted with a single 6" fan that is heavily speed controlled. The room stays 78 with the door closed, around 70 with it a little open. Humidity stays around 50. The glass on the hood is cool to the touch. I could lick it. =) Water is 68*, and pH is around 5.8 or a tiny bit lower. PPM is 800 (600 nutes, 300 water). Its tap water.

Ill take some better ones tomorrow night with some pictures of the other equipment, etc.

PS. The tanks have covers over the top so there isnt any light through the hydroton either.

[bud luv]

I want to see.

[Weedhound]

i want to see the photos of you licking the glass hood.

[BlueBear]

Licking the glass, sounds like mine. Sounds like a solid set up so far, sure it took quite a bit of work to get it all up and running. One thing to keep in mine, over at IC many folks are trying to use all air pumps outside of grow room when using CO2 for the fact that the pumps will inject CO2 into the root system threw the water and possibly be counter productive. Do you have any thoughts on this?
What are you placing clones into, RW or strait hydro rocks? If RW do you still allow the water to touch the RW when raising the water level to the bottom of the inside of the net pot when establishing the root system???
Adieu

[Racerx]

Licking the glass, sounds like mine. Sounds like a solid set up so far, sure it took quite a bit of work to get it all up and running. One thing to keep in mine, over at IC many folks are trying to use all air pumps outside of grow room when using CO2 for the fact that the pumps will inject CO2 into the root system threw the water and possibly be counter productive. Do you have any thoughts on this?
What are you placing clones into, RW or strait hydro rocks? If RW do you still allow the water to touch the RW when raising the water level to the bottom of the inside of the net pot when establishing the root system???
Adieu

yes the pump sits in an area that is fed cold air and not pulling air directly from the room. Its also high up in the room, not on the floor. The clones were done in Rockwool. The RW sits in hydro rocks in 5.5" netpots. I never saw a need for massive netpots, theres plenty for roots to grab ahold of. At the beginning we put the water level about a half inch above the bottom of the netpot. With all the bubbling action, high water level (the RW is really only a couple inches above the water level at this point), and the wet atmosphere there is no problem keeping the RW wet. The RW sits right below the surface of the netpots, one layer of hydrorocks on top. Once in awhile...if the RW looks really dry I will pour some of the res water through the rocks.

As of right now, the water is around 1.5" below the bottom of the pots. Every pot has great roots coming out into the water. PPM is around 1000. There is no burning. They have all been topped. Water temp stays around 68. The 6" fan is at about 25% power and the room is a solid 73-75* F with a humidity that roams between 30 and 40 (sometimes getting to 50 when it rains). If I turn the fan on full speed the room goes down into the low 60s. I have the fan on bungie cords, it barely makes a sound. The airpump is far far louder. The hood is about 18" from the canopy. Great green, fat roots. We have about 4 weeks left of veg...which has me extremely excited.

[Racerx]

Picture of me licking the glass as requested. This is with the fan on about 25%. The other pictures are around a week old showing off the setup. Having camera issues. New camera next week, new pics of the big setup.

[BlueBear]

Fantabulous!! I am looking at that same tutorial as well. Any headaches with leaks? Did you change much from the original design?
Adieu