Some information from Greg Green's grow Bible, posted by KP for your perusal

[kindprincess]

hi guys, i see so much bickering about noob q's, i've decided to put a complete (if borrowed) grow log, right here on cb.com... i hope these become stickies; i think it would help everyone

Table of Contents
post #1 about cannabis:the plant
post #2 all about seeds
post #3 pre-flowering and flowering
post #4 growing indoors
post #5 indoor enviornmental
post #6 indoor growing methods/advanced
post #7 indoor vs. outdoor
post #8 propagation and germination
post #9 breeding
post #10 advanced breeding
post #11 simple breeding
post #12 true breeding
post #13 harvesting and curing
post #14 the grower's checklist
post #15 issues and facts
post #16 making hash

this thread was designed to be a cannabis.com grower's tutorial. i hope it is used and reffered to often, as almost anything and everything you'd ever want or need to know about cannabis is in the following pages, and i will be expanding the context over the next few weeks. so keep on the lookout for new information and cannabis college courses...

enjoy

~Head Mistress KP~
__________________________________________________ ______________

THE CANNABIS PLANT
From a new cannabis industry. It will take a huge groundswell of support for legalization to overturn 70 years of suppression, however. Governments that have prohibited cannabis cultivation and made a concerted effort to outlaw the drug and punish users would most certainly lose face if they turned around now and admitted they were wrong. Governments rescinding their cannabis policies would also have to release people from prison radically change their justice department's stance on cannabis and even compensate those imprisoned for cannabis-related offenses.
Effects of Cannabis

THE HIGH
THC
Cannabis plants produce psychoactive ingredients called cannabinoids. The main ingredient in cannabinoids that gives the high effect is called delta-9 THC. All strains vary in THC levels and quantities or percentages. The difference between THC levels and THC quantities is that THC levels are genetically determined: they cannot be influenced by the grower. THC quantities, on the other hand, are related to bud mass and how much resin can be collected from that bud mass. By way of example: some bud may only contain 20 percent THC, with a THC level of 5. The same plant grown under better conditions could produce 70 percent THC, with a THC level of 5. The level is genetic. The quantities of 20 percent and 70 percent are under the grower's control.
CH3
OH
H3C
C3Hn


Genetic THC levels correspond to the ratio of THC to other cannabinoids contained in the trichomes of the pistils of a flowering female plant. Although this ratio varies depending on the strain, how it is grown, when it harvested and how it is cured, under optimal conditions a stable strain should produce a consistent THC level that is genetically inherited. Once the THC level is genetically set in the cannabis seed it can not be increased past this point during the plant's life. Likewise, the maximum quantities of bud that the plant can produce are also genetic and can not increase past this point during the plant's life. The grower should endeavor to create a growing environment which optimizes both these traits to their full potential. Emphasis should be made here on choosing good genetics. You can't improve on something that isn't there in the first place.
An optimally potent plant will have both high levels and quantities of delta-9 THC. Cannabis plants also produce a compound called delta-8 THC. This ingredient is found in low levels but does contribute to the high. When we mention THC levels, we are referring to both delta-8 and delta-9 THC. There are also other ingredients that add to the high, such as CBD, CBI\I, THCV, CBDV, CDC and CBL. Since these are minor components compared to THC they will not be discussed in this book.

When examining a strain in a seed bank catalogue you can check the THC levels of that plant to understand the potency. Many seed retailers and breeders measure their plantsâ?? THC levels and offer accounts of how much THC their plants have. Of course, breeders may be tempted to embellish the THC levels their plants produce. If you want to know more about the THC level of a specific strain, you should consider consulting the seed bank or breeder for details.
Hemp

Another interesting fact is that some cannabis plants do not produce any THC at all. These plants have been genetically engineered to produce very low levels of THC and are mainly used by farmers in countries that permit the growth of cannabis for hemp production only. It is best to keep away from these seeds and strains, as they do not produce a high.

The myth that birdseed food contains cannabis seeds is true but birdseed food usually contains the low THC level hemp seed that we are referring to above. It is the author's opinion not to waste your time with these and to buy better genetics instead.
Growing Marijuana Resin (Hashish)

Resin
Some female plants produce resin glands that contain lots of resin but are not considerably potent. Other plants may have little resin but be highly potent. Optimal growth gives rise to a plant that has both a considerable amount of resin and is highly potent. Resin glands are produced a/I over the female flowers and new leaves, and can be seen clearly with the use of a magnifying aid. These resin glands are called trichomes.
Resin can be rubbed off the bud using your Fingers and then rolled into the palms to create small balls of hand-rubbed hashish. The main concentration of produced cannabinoids and THC exists within these glands. When a plant is in full flowering some of the resin glands may explode or break, drooping resin onto the leaves below, giving these leaves an extra shiny potent look during flowering. Toward the bottom of the plant are the fan leaves. These leaves are generally large, outstretched and are used to collect light for plant growth. Because these leaves are far away from the top of the plant and the furthest away from the light, they produce the least amount of resin glands and collect the least amount of burst resin from the tops. They are considered to be not very potent. It is best to consider separating the fan leaves from the rest of the plant after harvesting as these leaves will not provide the best high. Zero Cannabis can be cured into various forms. A popular form is hashish.


Hashish can also be graded, and one of the most famous grades of hashish is called Zero Zero. Hashish making can improve but sometimes degrades the overall potency of marijuana. The grades of hashish are as follows: 00 (Zero Zero), 0, 1, 2, 3. Zero Zero is by far the purest form of hashish and comes from plants that have high levels of THC in conjunction with a good hash-making technique. Sometimes the technique may be good yet the levels of THC in the plant are low. This may produce a hash grade of two or three.
The potency of a plant depends on a number of factors. It should be the goal of every grower to produce a potent, high-grade product. Hash making is discussed in greater detail in Chapter 17.
Growing Cannabis Facts

THE PLANT
When the word cannabis is uttered, the image of the famous leaf shape is immediately recalled. Leaves are in fact the least potent part of the plant next to the stem and the roots. The cannabis plant can be divided into six main sections; they are the bud, stem, branches, nodes, leaves and main cola.

The next thing to note is that plants have genders. They can be male, female or a mixed gender (hermaphrodite condition). There is also a condition of the female plant called sinsemitta that growers and breeders alike need to understand.


Male Plant
The male plant contains low levels of THC and does not taste very good, but it can produce a high. Growers only cultivate male plants for pollen so that they can make cannabis seeds.

Female Plant
The female plant, when pollinated, produces THC but also produces seeds, which
Prevents larger quantities of bud from growing.

Hermaphrodite Plant
Hermaphrodite plants contain both male and female organs. If the pollen is viable, the plant will automatically pollinate itself (selfing), resulting in a crop that can never be sinsemilla. Although most strains have the ability to become hermaphrodites under poor growing conditions, there are some cannabis plants that are genetically hermaphroditic and this disorder can not be reversedâ??even under optimal growing conditions. Avoid growing these genetically hermaphrodite plants because they do not help the cannabis gene pool.

Sinsemilla Plant
A non-pollinated female (sinsemilla) plant will produce more flowering buds and more quantities of TH C than the male plant or a seeded female plant. The buds produce resin, which contains THC and can drop down onto the leaves. When fully mature, it should produce a very pleasing high, depending on the grow method, the strain of plant and time of harvest.


It should be the goal of every canrtabis cultivator to grow non-pollinated female plants because these produce the best yield. The goal of a cannabis breeder is growing cannabis seeds and plants of quality. How breeders and growers achieve these goals is the subject of this book.

end of excerpt

kindprincess Reviewed by kindprincess on 12-08-2006. Some information from Greg Green's grow Bible, posted by KP for your perusal hi guys, i see so much bickering about noob q's, i've decided to put a complete (if borrowed) grow log, right here on cb.com... i hope these become stickies; i think it would help everyone:) Table of Contents post #1 about cannabis:the plant post #2 all about seeds post #3 pre-flowering and flowering post #4 growing indoors post #5 indoor enviornmental post #6 indoor growing methods/advanced post #7 indoor vs. outdoor Rating: 5

[kindprincess]

from marijuanahydro.com

Cannabis Seeds

THERE ARE APPROXIMATELY 450 CANNABIS SEED VARIETIES on the market today. Out of the 450 Cannabis seed varieties, 200 are worth considering and out of the 200 about 50 are truly outstanding. Each variety is either a pure species strain (two plants of the same species that have been crossed) or a crossbreed of two species (two plants from different species that have been crossed).*

Before we go on, let's clarify what we mean by hybrid and strain.
A hybrid is the offspring of two different strains. A strain is simply a stock line with common parents. Stable strains have stable genetic traits, which means that the offspring will all be very similar. In fact, most strains are called strains because of their uniformity in growth and reduced variations in the offspring. Hybrids tend to be unstable, or genetically unpredictable, because of their 'newness'. A good stabilized hybrid eventually goes on to become a strain.

Out of the 450 Marijuana seeds varieties we said that 200 were good. This leaves 250 that
We have disregarded. Those 250 are usually very unstable hybrids. These hybrid plants are so unstable that they cannot be properly classified as either Cannabis Sativa or Indica species because the variations they exhibit are too wide ranging.
Most unstable hybrids do not find their way into the market and are found only among breeders who are experimenting with plant genetics. Cannabis Seed producers tend to only produce strains in the following categories:
â?¢ Pure Cannabis Sativa (pure species)
â?¢ Cannabis Sativa (mostly Cannabis Sativa species with some Indica)
â?¢ Pure Indica (pure species)
â?¢ Indica (mostly Indica species with some Sativa)
â?¢ Indica/Sativa (50/50 cross between an Indica and a Sativa species)
â?¢ Ruderalis (pure species)
Ruderalis is a problematic plant. It does not produce large quantities of THC or flower like the other species. Ruderalis is considered substandard by most growers because it flowers according to age, not according to the photoperiod. This means that the Ruderalis cannabis plant will flower when it is mature enough to do so and this flowering action of the Ruderalis plant is Kout of the growerâ??s hands', so to speak. Ruderalis is grown in countries that experience cold weather conditions â?? Russia, Eastern Europe and Alaska are places where Ruderalis grows wild. It is an extremely sturdy plant for outdoor growing â?? however the auto flowering properties of this plant make it hard to control. Trying to clone a Ruderalis plant is nearly impossible because it is extremely hard to force the clone to remain in the vegetative growth stage of the plant's cycle. Photoperiod manipulation â?? the way growers control cannabis flowering with Indica and Cannabis Sativa plants â?? does not work with Ruderalis plants. Photoperiod, an extremely important part of cannabis cultivation, is further explained in Chapter 7. The only reason to grow Ruderalis is if you must grow outdoors, where the photoperiod is of no concern to you.
Pure Cannabis Sativa is a total head high. Pure Indica is a total body stone/couch-lock. A 50/50 cross will give a 50 percent head high and a 50 percent body stone. If an Indica plant is crossed slightly with a Cannabis Sativa plant it will give a 60 percent body stone and a 40 percent head high. A Sativa plant that is crossed slightly with an Indica plant will give a 60 percent head high and a 40 percent body stone. The 60/40 ratio is the most common but breeders can also alter the ratio.

Equipped with this knowledge, you are now ready to choose a plant that fits your needs in terms of height, potency and high. Your choice of Cannabis seeds will also depend on whether you will grow indoors or outdoors, as well as other characteristics of your grow space. There is no point trying to grow an eight-foot Saliva indoors if you don't have the space and a two-foot Indica plant may not survive outdoors if other plants compete with it for light. As a rule, we can always shorten the plant through pruning, but it is impossible to double the plant's height if the plant's genetics only allow two or three feet of growth. Indoor and outdoor grow spaces will be discussed more in later chapters. The rest of this chapter will focus on selecting, acquiring and handling quality Cannabis seeds.

SELECTING CANNABIS SEEDS
Now you have an idea of the species and strain of plant you want. The next step is to verify if the Marijuana seeds are for indoor or outdoor use. There is a saying that all cannabis seeds can be grown indoors and outdoors. This is true, but for the best results, growers should consider what the breeder intended. If the breeder created a plant that does well indoors then it is suggested that you only grow these seeds indoors. If you grow outdoors and the plant does not produce that well, then you know that you should have followed the breeder's advice. Of course, there is nothing stopping you from experimenting, and some growers have produced excellent results this way, but if you are new to growing it is best if you follow the advice you're given.

When selecting a seed, check to see if it is pure or if it has been crossed. Most seed sellers will have this listed along with their seed type. When you look at strains that are crossbreeds you must understand which species the plants lean toward. Along with the cross, you can expect the plant to look different. Some Saliva plants may be shorter because of their Indica genetics and some Indica plants may be taller because of their Saliva genetics. In Chapter 15, we will see that as breeders, we can control the plant's appearance and growth and can influence height and particular features. We can also harvest the plant in a specific way to produce a different high. The later you harvest the plant, the more you'll help produce a couch-lock effect. Harvesting just before peak growth will induce a more cerebral high. If you are working with strains that are for either cerebral or couch-lock highs then you can use harvest time to augment these properties.

Both of the above marijuana pictures, show a mostly Cannabis Sativa strain: one growing outdoors and the other indoors. As you can see, this would probably be labeled an outdoor strain because of its size. The grower has been able to grow it both ways.

The next thing to look at is the flowering period. Each strain's flowering period can vary. It is toward the last days of flowering that you should begin your harvest. If the seed bank says Skunk#l, flowering time seven to nine weeks, then you should be able to know roughly when your plant will be ready for harvest. In this case it will be seven to nine weeks from the time your plant starts to flower.

You may also find that a number of similar strains have been produced by different breeders. When you look at the seed bank list you may see as many as four or more listings for the same strain. Take Skunk#l for example. Skunk#l is a mostly Sativa plant but there are about seven breeders who have provided a certain seed bank with Skunk#l seeds. Each breeder tries to develop the best plant possible from that strain, but some breeders are better than others. Make sure that you check with the seed bank and confirm which strains are the best. The reason for choosing the best is that later on you can produce your own seeds from that optimal strain. Welcome to the wonderful world of marijuana growing.

HOW TO GET SEEDS
The best way to get seeds is from another grower who has developed a plant that you enjoyed smoking. This, by far, is the best way because,
(1) you may get the seeds for free and
(2) you know what the high will be like because you have already sampled it.
The next best way is through the Internet. The Internet is full of seed banks that want to sell you seeds, but you may encounter problems. Firstly, some of these seed banks are not legitimate and will rip you off. Secondly, some of these seed banks do not ship worldwide and their products may be unavailable to you. Thirdly, some of these seed banks misrepresent their stock. Finally, seeds can be very expensive. Some seed banks charge anywhere between $80 and $300 for 10 to 16 seeds. There are rip-off artists out there, but there are also seeds that are worth the money because the strain is excellent in both vigor and production. So, how do you choose a seed bank?

Choosing a Seed Bank
After locating a seed bank the first thing you should do is to research what people have to say about that particular seed bank. The best way to find this information is to check one of the more popular sites on the net, like www.seedbankupdate.com www.yahooka.com

www.overgrow.com www.cannabisworld.com
www.cannabis.com www.cannabisculture.com
Some web sites give listings and ratings on seed banks. You can also do a search on the Internet using a search engine, like Google or Yahoo.

Find a good web site that is used by a number of people. A community of growers is a great place to go for message-board forums and to chat.

www.seedbankupdate.com
Greenman's seedbank update is one the most useful seedbank review sites on the internet. It was one of the first review sites ever established and still remains the most popular to this day.

www.cannabisculture.com
www.cannabisculture.com is the home of Cannabis Culture magazineâ??a Canadian marijuana publication run by Marc Emery. It has lots of information on cannabis news and marijuana growing. It is also home to emery seeds and has an on-line message board system aimed at growers who cultivate the good herb.

www.overgrow.com
www.overgrow.com tend to have the largest attendance of cannabis growers currently found on the Internet. Consider maintaining your anonymity by using an email account or ID that cannot be traced to you. Using a proxy will also help you surf safely on the net. www.overgrow.com has lots of helpful information for growers on proxy services, general web surfing and anonymity.

Also confirm that the web site you are buying from has a registered URL, like a Dot.com site. If they use a free web-site service then consider avoiding it because it could disappear overnight. Once you have found a web site, run a search on Cannabis seeds and seed banks.

Next, check out the reviews on each seed bank by the public. Then, visit the URL of each seed bank and check out their prices. Make sure that the seed bank has a quick turn-around time. It should only take up to 30 days for delivery. Some seed banks have been known to create back orders that take over two to three months to clear. I have personally witnessed Christmas seed orders arrive in the following March. This is a problem usually associated with counterfeit* goods. Avoid seed banks that have a large turn-around time gap. You want a snappy service and delivery within 30 days is the norm. Some seed banks have a 1 to 2 day shipping policy as soon are your money has cleared. These seed-banks are generally very popular with most growers.

Some seed banks offer deals on seeds and you will also find that prices fluctuate from bank to bank. Before buying anything, send them an email and inquire about their services, the seeds you like, delivery options, postage, packaging and security arrangements. Wait until you receive a reply. If you do not get a reply then do not use that seed bank. These individuals are salespeople and should communicate with you and answer all of your questions.

Most seed banks sell their seeds in batches of 10 to 20 but anything can happen in transit. A misplaced foot in the postal office can kill the seeds, making them not viable. Quality seed banks should provide good protective packaging.

If your seeds do not arrive in a reasonable amount of time, send an email to the seed bank and ask them what happened. If they do not reply or if your seeds are lost write them a complaint and then post that complaint in one of the web boards mentioned above. If you receive your seeds in good condition then it is always considerate to post a positive review of that seed bank. This will improve your communication with the seed bank the next time you purchase seeds. If you do not have access to the web then you will have to write to the seed banks to request more information. Information about some seed banks is provided in the back of this book.

Always consult the seed bank about your strain â?? you never know, they may even be able to recommend something better to suit your needs.

STORING SEEDS
You should receive your seeds in a stealth package. You will probably find them inside a clear, heat-sealed and labeled plastic bag. Check your seeds to make sure that none are crushed. If some or all of the seeds are crushed, send them back to be replaced explaining to the seed bank that this particular package was damaged. Do not open the bag if you are sending them back.

If the seeds appear to be in good condition, then the first thing you should do is to remove the seeds from the bag. Make double sure that these seeds do not come in contact with anything damp or wet or they may start to germinate. Once you have removed them from the bag you should place the seeds in a small, clean and very dry film canister. Seal the canister and make sure that you LABEL it. I can not stress how many times I have heard of people storing seeds only to forget what they were and when they were stored when the time came to use them.

The film canister is a short-term solution to seed storage. It will prevent your Cannabis seeds from coming in contact with light, bacteria, moisture and air â?? all of which can cause either germination or damage to occur. If you are going to store your seeds for more than a year, you should store them in an airtight container in a freezer.

end of excerpt

[kindprincess]

from marijuanahydro.com

PRE-FLOWERING AND FLOWERING
BY NOW YOU'VE MANAGED TO SET UP THE BASIC growing environment and experimented with modifying and controlling it to promote better, stronger plant growth. You will have observed your plants forming a number of nodes and a small leaf mass at the top, which you know is going to form the next set of leaves and branches. Your leaves should be flat and stretched out to receive as much light as possible across their surface area. If they are, then your plant is enjoying its environment. If not then maybe you should consider turning to the Problem Solver in Chapter 13 to see what has gone wrong.

You should also note that almost everyone makes mistakes the first time growing. Very few first-time growers get to this stage without experiencing at least one problem, so don't feel bad if you didn't get it right the first time.The trick to growing healthier, more potent plants is to keep growing (and reading this book).
During the vegetative growth stage your plants will begin to grow quickly and produce more leaves and new branches. The stem will also grow thicker. This is the point when your plants begin to really look like marijuana.

Then, one day you will notice that your plants appear to be doing more than just growing vertically and producing leaves. You take a closer look and there appears to be new leaf growth at most of the node regions between the stem and the branches. Your plant is now developed enough to receive more light energy and covert this energy into more side branch growth. These new growths produce more leaves, branches, and eventually flowers. This type of new growth at the stem's node regions is called lateral branching or secondary branching. This is really where the extra node regions begin to take shape.

After a few more weeks of this secondary growth your plant is looking more bushy and certainly has more node regions. It is during this time that your plant has reached sexual maturity and is ready to show sex. How long this takes depends on the strain you are growing but after the seedling stage has finished you are looking at a time period of 4 to 8 weeks vegetative growth. With Sativa strains this can take much longer.
At a certain stage towards the end of vegetative growth the plant enters its pre-flowering phase and, as a grower, you need to tailor your grow space and gardening approach to this new stage in your plants' life cycle.The next section explains how to identify the pre-flowering stage.

PRE-FLOWERING AND EARLY SEXING
Recall that during pre-flowering, plants start to exhibit their sex. As a grower, you should be hoping for as many females as possible. Pre-flowering occurs at the node regions. Towards the end of vegetative growth you need to check your plant nodes for what is called calyx development. A clone will carry the exact same genetic makeup as the plant it came from, so if you know your clone's history you will already be able to predict it's sex.

CHECKING FOR CALYX DEVELOPMENT
Choose a plant. First of all examine the node regions of the plant where the branches meet the stem. You are looking for very small pod shaped organs here at these regions.* If you don't find any here then move outwards along each branch checking each node region until you come to the tip. If you do not find calyx development then your plant has not reached its pre-flowering phase yet. You need to wait for it. Calyx development will come in time.
There are three early indicators of plant sex, but they are not 100 percent accurate.So remember, these methods can fail, but are often accurate predictors of your plants' sex.

First Early Sexing Method
If you've been growing the same strain and all the seeds were started at the same time, then you may notice that some plants are taller than others: the smaller plants tend to be female and the taller ones tend to be male. You can separate these plants into two sections in order to see how good your guesswork was when you do definitively identify sex. The other thing to note is that male plants generally start to pre-flower before females. If you have taller plants that are producing new growths before the smaller ones then the taller plants are probably male.

Second Early Sexing Method
A good way to identify plant sex at an early date is to examine the calyx* with the aid of a very fine magnifying glass. If the calyx is raised on a small, short stem then it's probably a male. If the calyx isn't raised on a small short stem then it's probably a female.

Third Early Sexing Method
'Force-flowering' is probably the best early-sexing method. To force-flower a cannabis plant, simply take a cutting and place it in a cup of water or a cloning medium, such as rockwool. Expose the cutting to 12 hours of light followed by 12 hours of total darkness. The cutting should flower and display its sex â?? however the plant must be mature enough to present its sex. An immature plant will not show sex because initial calyx development is not photoperiod-related. Plants normally mature around the forth week of vegetative growth because sex is not genetically determined until the third week of growth.This also applies to 'feminized seeds,' which can, and often do, turn out to be male.** If your plants are exhibiting calyx development, then this is a suitable method of determining the plant's sex.

These methods are NOT 100 percent accurate. Later in this Chapter we will explain how to definitively identify the sex of your marijuana plant.

WHEN TO FLOWER?
Your plant will remain in the pre-flowering stage between one and two weeks. During this period, the new growth regions begin to change shape depending on the plants' sex. It is during this shape change that you can properly detect your plant's sex.
Pre-flowering is a sign that your plant is mature enough to start flowering. As a grower you have a simple choice to make: Do you want to flower now or do you want to continue vegetative growth? Here are a few issues to consider before you make a decision:

â?¢ Most cannabis plants can be kept alive for up to 12 years by simply keeping a light on the plant at all times. Even if the plant only receives light for a few hours a day it can still live for a long time. It all depends on how the plant is treated. These plants will grow to a certain height and then form into a bush. Eventually they will stop producing branches and will spend the rest of their lives growing new leaves to replace the old ones. By keeping the plant in vegetative growth longer, you allow it to reach its optimal size of vegetative growth and the plant will stop growing. Most growers flower before this, when they see calyx development, in order to speed up the growing process. For example: A plant that shows sex at the forth week of vegetative growth can be kept in vegetative growth for a few more weeks to allow the plant to generate more node regions (leading to more branch and leaf growth). When the plant is flowered, this extra stage of growth should help the plant to achieve optimal results however the grow time is extended by a few more weeks to obtain this.

â?¢ Bud production does not increase at the same rate as plant growth. Bud production depends on your growing environment, your strain's genetic makeup and the amount of nodes the plant has. All nodes are potential bud areas, but every strain has a genetic threshold for bud production.

â?¢ It is possible to get more bud with lots of plants that are flowered as soon as they're mature (which also keeps them shorter and smaller), than extending vegetative growth with less plants until they reach their maximum height and size. The time frame for the shorter option also produces more bud turnover per year.

Keeping these things in mind, you can either choose to flower now or choose to keep your plant growing until it reaches its size threshold before you start flowering. If you take the longer route, prepare to have the space for it, because in the flowering stage, some cannabis strains can more than double in height and width.
If you want your pre-flowers to flower you only have to do one thing: introduce the 12/12 light schedule.

THE ALL-IMPORTANT 12/12!
If you've never heard of 12/12, listen up. 12/12 is the key to producing high quantities of bud from cannabis plants.

Cannabis plants grow outdoors naturally between the months of April and October/November. This means that toward Sept/Nov* the plants will be flowering. During this time the days get shorter and the nights get longer. When this occurs, the plants are subjected to 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness.
When this 12/12 photoperiod occurs, the plant is naturally stimulated to flower. As long as 12/12 continues the flowers will grow larger and more plentiful. This is part of the cannabis plants' natural cycle. Naturally, as a grower, you want a large quantity of flowers, and you achieve this by introducing the 12/12 light cycle.
During pre-flowering you can either manually turn on your lights for 12 hours and turn off your light for 12 hours every day or you can use a timer to automate the process.Throughout the 12 hours of darkness you should keep your grow area as dark as possible. Even something as seemingly harmless as a small desk light at the other side of your room will cause your plant not to react properly to 12/12, resulting in continued vegetative growth. In fact, any light that penetrates the darkness could stop your plants from flowering properly. That means your grow room must be sealed to the point where it is completely lightproof.

If you want to learn how to do completely lightproof your space then I suggest that you read up on photography dark rooms, either on the Internet or in your local library. Photographers use common items that can be bought in most hardware shops to make their film-processing rooms lightproof. If you borrow ideas from their tried-and-true methods (basically a thick black screening around the doorframes or any open light points) then you will have a great space for flowering plants. You should be a long way towards achieving this already if you followed the advice on covering your grow room with Mylar. If you have prevented any light from leaking out, then you should also have prevented light from leaking in.

Problems with 12/12
If you switch to 12/12 before pre-flowers have shown, you may encounter the following problems:
1. Stress-related sex problems (hermaphrodites)
2. Abnormal bud growth

Stress-related Sex Problems (Hermaphrodites)
Stress-related sex problems might produce hermaphrodite plants. The stress of what's sometimes called early flowering triggers the plant into a situation where it thinks its chances of reproduction are slim to none. That situation induces a condition or act of self-pollination, in which the plant produces both male and female flowers on the same plant. The male flowers then pollinate the female flowers, which eventually produce seeds.
The reason for this is that the plant notices that the photoperiod is irregular* and should no longer be in the vegetative growth stage but in flowering. This shocks the plant into a last ditch effort to receive pollen because it feels that it's missed its chance to receive pollen already. In the wild, males release their pollen just around the time that females begin to flower.

This is what hermaphrodites look like. Notice that bolh male pollen pods and female pistils are present on the plant. Picture by Rasta Linus.

Hermies cause problems because they may carry the hermaphrodite trait with their offspring. Genetically the hermie condition is near impossible to reverse once started. Sometimes even plants from the hermaphrodite's offspring that did not display the hermaphrodite condition can still carry the hermie trait to future offspring. If you ever see all-female seeds advertised by seed banks you have the right to know whether or not these seeds come from female plants that were stressed into producing male flowers. In general, growers try to avoid hermie plants because they spoil sinsemilla crops and breeding projects.

Abnormal Bud Growth
Abnormal bud growth is a side effect of the hermaphrodite condition. Because the
plant produces male pollen sacks with female flowers you may notice that the bud
looks different. Also, the quantity of female bud produced is decreased because of
pollination.

Early-induced flowering* isn't the same thing as forcing your plants to flower. If you force flower a strain before it has pre-flowered it will flower at roughly the same time as a plant from the same strain that has been flowered after calyx development has occurred naturally. Force flowering simply acts by stressing the plant into a crisis condition.
You will get the best out of your plant by waiting until it starts pre-flowering before switching to 12/12.

Keep feeding and watering your plant as normal. Pay attention to the flowering areas as they begin to grow. At this stage you may want to switch to your flowering feeds. Soon you'll be able to see your plant's sex.

Pre-Flowering for the 24/0 and the 18/6 photoperiods Both under the 24/0 photoperiod and the 18/6 photoperiod cannabis plants will undergo calyx development when mature enough to do so. In the case of the 18/6 photoperiod calyx development may appear more pronounced and even display its sex earlier than the 24/0 photoperiod.

It is easier to keep a plant in vegetative growth by using the 24/0 photoperiod because there are no dark periods. If you keep the plants under 18/6 the pre-flowering phase increase may cause a slow down in vegetative growth. Although pre-flowering under 18/6 does not cause flowering it certainly contributes to a decrease in vegetative activity. As soon as you go down to less than 14 hours of light the plant will normally start to flower. 12/12 is the best light regime for flowering and can be introduced as soon as calyx development appears.

THE MALE/FEMALE THING OR HOWTO SEX YOUR PLANTS
You now have nurtured your plants and watched them grow in the hope that you'l get some high-yield females in the end. If you end up without any female plant: out of all of your seeds then send the seed bank a letter explaining how 15 out o 15 seeds were male. If you're lucky and sincere in your writing, the seed bank ma; send you some free seeds or give you a discount on your next order. Seed bank: or breeders aren't responsible for male/female ratios. It simply isn't under thei control. Some people get 100 percent females while others get 100 percen males, but it is rare that such a thing will happen. To get five or more females ii a pack of 15* is a good ratio.

MALE FLOWERING
Males do not need a photoperiod to spread pollen. As soon as calyx development shows male flowers may appear within a few days under the 24/0,18/6 or 12/12 photoperiods. Male flowers grow more vigorously and plentiful under the 12/12 photoperiod.
A male plant will continue to flower for the remainder of its flowering period developing new calyx formations and male flowers. It can take anywhere between 12 hours and one week from calyx development for male flowers to appear and shed their pollen. It is very important to separate the males from the females as early as possible if you are growing a sinsemilla crop. In general males usually appear before females.

Pollen can easily be collected as described in Chapter 15. You can also gather falling pollen using a white sheet of paper placed in between the plant stem on the top of the pot. All fans must be turned off if you want to collect pollen this way. Fans will only blow pollen around your grow room.

Female plants can be pollinated at any time but are best pollinated between 15 and 30 days into their flowering period. Plants that are pollinated less than three weeks before harvest may result in immature seeds although plants pollinated two weeks before harvest have been known to produce seeds mature enough for germination.

FLOWERING
If all has gone well and you've cared for your plants, they will now enter the flowering stage of the life cycle. You will remove the males and should have a number of females to work with. This is going to be the most important time you'll spend taking care of your plants.

The male plant produces pollen sacks, which, when ripe, burst and scatter pollen to the female plants.The female plant produces white hairs at the internodes and top cola (head) of the plant during flowering. These hairs (pistils) begin to curl slightly and grow longer and thicker. The top cola should carry the most pistils. These pistils are sticky to touch (don't touch them too much as they also contain the sought-after THC), and become covered in resin during the flowering period. The reason for their stickiness is that the pistils are used by the female to catch falling pollen. If the female plant isn't pollinated she'll try to grow more sticky areas. Hence the results of a sinsemilla crop ...bigger and better buds.

During the strict 12/12 cycle, a female plant will fill out more. More leaves, more branches and more flowers develop until eventually, plants reach a peak period of flowering. Your plant will start to almost take the shape of a Christmas tree. The lower fan leaves will be stretched to the maximum in order to receive the most light. Running upward in a cone shape the plant will exhibit strong floral and leaf development.
During the peak period of flowering, the female pistils on the flower's tips will swell. When the swelling occurs, the pistils will begin to change in color. They'll generally change from a white to an orange tint or from a red to a brown tint. All strains are different but in general it's a white to red or a red to brown color change. It's best to use the breeder's recommended flowering times for harvest guidelines. When your plants do this you're ready to harvest and sample your favorite herb. Each strain has its own flowering times and each strain may also have a different color tint when they reach a flowering peak.

end of excerpt

[kindprincess]

from marijuanahydro.com

How to Grow Marijuana
Marijuana seeds & more

THE INDOOR GROWING ENVIRONMENT

THERE ARE MANY WAYS to grow cannabis plants indoors.The two core methods are soil growing and hydroponics. Chapter 9 is dedicated to hydroponics. The next three Chapters deal with soil growing: from basic setups, to controlling the environment, tending your plants throughout the life cycle and advanced techniques. Although these Chapters focus on indoor soil grow, the hints and tips provided can be used to improve plant health and growth in any growing marijuana environment.

There are many ways to grow an indoor soil garden ranging from basic setups to advanced setups. The most common indoor basic setups are:
â?¢ Soil growing -,
â?¢ Hydroponic growing
The most common advanced indoor setups are:
â?¢ SOG growing
â?¢ ScrOG growing
â?¢ Cabinet growing
Hydroponic cannabis growing is covered in Chapter 9.The common advanced indoor setups are discussed in detail in Chapter 8. First we will look at what all indoor growing marijuana etups nave in common.

LIGHTING
Your choice of lighting is the second most important growing decision you will make next to selecting your strain. Lights come in all shapes and sizes with varying levels of wattage and lumens. A full indoor lighting kit should contain the following items: bulb, reflector, ballast, timer and electrical inputs/outputs.

Most lighting kits are open, meaning they have no glass cover or hood to shield the bulb. Instead, the bulb is fixed into a socket that is attached to the inside of the reflector and hangs directly underneath the reflector. That socket is in turn connected to the ballast, which can be either internal or external.* If external, there will be a cord leading to the ballast from the bulb's socket. If internal, the ballast will be attached directly to the bulb socket and may even support the reflector. The ballast plugs into a domestic light socket like the ones in your home. Some ballasts have built-in timers.

When purchasing a lighting system it is recommended that you look for a complete system and buy an extra bulb. Check to make sure that the lighting system meets safety regulations and has some sort of guarantee or warranty.

Color Bands and Plant Growth
When a beam of light is split by means of a prism or diffraction grating, it produces a number of color bands which represent the colors of the rainbow: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo and violet. The bands correspond to the frequencies emitted by the heated light source.

The electromagnetic spectrum is a term used to describe the distribution of electromagnetic radiation by reference to energy. The table below roughly gives wavelengths, frequencies and energies for different regions of the spectrum. You may want to refer back to these later if you are interested in analyzing your bulb's qualities. On the bulb's packaging you should be given data on the bulb's use of the electromagnetic spectrum. Your bulb should mention wavelengths and frequencies somewhere between the 'Infrared', ^Visible' and 'Ultraviolet' regions. Each bulb manufacturer has different specifications with regards to the bulb's abilities to cast artificial light.

Light color depends on the light source. It also is a visual indicator that a number of different factors important to plant growth are present in the light. Artificial grow lights are designed to provide an intense and clean white light that meets certain color and temperature requirements so that the bulb can be classified as a 'grow bulb'.

The Correlated Color Temperature (CCT), the thermal temperature, of a light source is usually expressed in degrees Kelvin (K). When certain basic elements that are used in light bulbs are heated, they start to glow. As the elements get hotter, they change color. This occurs within a certain range and peaks when the bulb is fully heated. At this peak the color holds and this is the CCT rating of the bulb. Bulbs that have a CCT rating of 3000 are referred to as 'warm' bulbs. A CCT rating of 4000 is a'neutral'bulb and a 6000 CCT bulb is a'cool'bulb. The color of the bulb at CCT is a combination of the many different colors being emitted by the hot elements in the bulb.

Although the CCT gives us an indication of the bulb's color temperature it does not tell us much about how well each of the color bands are represented. For this we need to refer to the lamp's Color Rendering Index (CRD.This is done under laboratory conditions by comparing the bulb's CCT with a darker material at the same CCT. It is generally understood by the growing community that the higher the CRI rating of a bulb, the better the quality of color distribution.

Outside daylight measures around 5500K for most of the daylight hours.
The next table shows the colors you will come across most often when using artificial light sources and the effect that each one has on growing cannabis plant growth.

IMPACT OF LIGHT COLOR ON PLANT GROWTH CCT in Kelvin (K) Light Color Effect
5000 to 8000 Deep blue Encourages excellent leaf and stem growth 4000 to 5000 Light blue Encourages good leaf and stem growth 4000 Neutral white Promotes normal growth 3700 to 4000 Warm neutral Promotes rapid growth 3000 to 3700 Warmer yellow neutral Highly active photosynthesis for all stages
of growth 1500 to 3000 Hot orange or red Promotes flowering
Plants are green, which means they reflect green light. This is due to fact that cannabis growing, and most other plants, does not use green light for photosynthesis. This has to do with chlorophyll. High intensity discharge (HID) bulbs are designed to cast as much useable light as possible.There are two different types of HID grow lights that we will discuss in a moment. Each type is designed to lean towards casting a warm or a cool type of light. HID grow lights are the most common type of indoor lighting used for growing cannabis.

Basics of Photosynthesis
It is important for us to understand the basics of photosynthesis because it is at the heart of the cannabis plant's energy system. Plants are the only organism with the biological ability to synthesize complex foods for themselves from simple substances.
Chlorophyll
Plants naturally produce chlorophyll, which gives them their green color. Chlorophyll is a group of magnesium-containing green pigments that act as an absorber of light energy for specific wavelengths. The plant converts this light energy into chemical energy.
++The Process of Photosynthesis
Photosynthesis means 'combining with light'. Photosynthesis is a Veactant - product' process which occurs wherever chlorophyll is found in the plant, which is mostly in the leaves. The symbolic equation for photosynthesis is:
6 C02 + 6 HzO -sunlight &. chlorophyll -C6H1Z06 + 602
If there is no light then there is no photosynthesis. At night plants cease photosynthesis. If there is not enough nutrients then chlorophyll will not be produced by the plant and photosynthesis will cease. Temperatures are also important for photosynthesis. If the temperatures go out of the normal range for good cannabis growing then photosynthesis will slow down or even stop. See Chapter 6 for more on temperatures.

Common Lighting Types
Domestic Lights
These are the lights you find in use around your house.They come in all sizes and
generally range from between 15 and 150 watts. These lights are unsuitable for
growing because of their low light intensity and poor CRI rating. Standard
domestic bulbs have a CCT rating of about 2700 K.

Fluorescent Tube Lights
These lights are the long, tube-shaped, lights commonly used in industrial and commercial buildings. They come in a variety of lengths and sizes, but 2 to 10 foot-long bulbs are the most common. They also range from between 10 and 300 watts. These lights are okay for growing but they provide a low light intensity and are difficult to set up properly. They are also not in the best light spectrum for the growing cannabis plants because, like domestic lights, fluorescent tubes have poor CRI ratings.

Halogen Lights
Halogen lights are small and often used for flood lighting during the night. These lights can range from anywhere between 75 and 4000 watts. Halogens get extremely hot and this creates a completely unsuitable condition for growing marijuana.They are not recommended because they can be dangerous for indoor growing use. They also have a low CRI rating. Halogens have a CCT rating^of about 3000 K.

Fluorescent White Tube Lights
Similar to fluorescent lights, fluorescent white tube* lights have a higher CRI rating. These lights do not range high above 100 watts and are only recommended as 'cheap to buy and run' grow bulbs. They can, however, be invaluable for rooting clones and starting seeds. Fluorescent white tube lights are usually found in the following wattage levels â?? 10W, 30W, 60W and 100W. You should aim for 30W and above if you want to induce some form of floral development. Less than 30W lights are only sufficient for rooting cuttings and starting seedlings. Cool white fluorescents have a CCT rating of about 4200 K.

Horticultural Lights
Commonly called HID (high intensity discharge) lights, professional horticultural lights are designed to promote indoor plant growth. These lights are available in kits complete with bulb, reflector, ballast and timer. They also come in different wattage levels, shapes and sizes. If you want to grow good bud, you should use HID lighting. HID lights have three distinct subcategories: metal halide (MH), mercury vapor (MV) and high-pressure sodium (HPS).

Metal Halide <MH) and Mercury Vapor (MV) Lights MH lights are HID lights that are used for the seedling and vegetative growth stages of your plant.They can also be used for flowering. They come in all shapes and sizes and range from 75 to 4000 watts. These lights are very commonly used kits and are ideal for indoor marijuana growing. M H lights mostly lean towards a blue color meaning that the bulb is a vcool' type. Daylight MH lights have a CCT rating of about 5500 K. Standard clear MH lights have a CCT rating of about 4000 K. 'Warm' MH lights also exist and have a CCT rating of about 3200 K. Opt for the daylight halide, as it provides the best possible type of MH light for marijuana growing.

MV lights have been almost replaced by MH lights. If you have a choice between the two it is best to opt for the newer MH kits. MV has a tendency to be slightly out of the optimal spectrum range, being too blue.

High-Pressure Sodium (HPS) Lights
HPS is the lighting choice of many a cannabis cultivator. HPS lights come in all shapes and sizes and range from 75 to 4000 watts.They are in the perfect spectrum for growing cannabis and come highly recommended, particularly for the flowering stage of the life cycle. HPS lights lean towards a blue color meaning that the bulb is a 'warm' type. High-pressure sodium bulbs have a CCT rating of about 2200 K.

Wattage and Lumens
HID lights can range from anywhere between 75 and 4000 watts." In general, the stronger the wattage the more light that bulb will produce. However, we must also consider another factor called lumens. Lumens are the correct way of measuring how much light per square foot a bulb emits. Lumens and wattage go hand in hand, but can vary to a large extent between systems. In general, the better the lighting kit, the more lumens it will cast. Lumens have more to do with the design of the light than the wattage of the light itself. Some 600-watt lights may emit the same lumens as a 400-watt light. The sample comparison table below shows the lumens emitted by four different lamps. Of note, the two HPS lamps both use the same wattage, but cast different levels of lumens.

Lumens and Marijuana Growing
You are probably wondering: How many lumens do I need? This depends on three
things:
1. How much you want to spend
2. How many plants you have
3. The size of your grow area
You never want to use less than 2500 lumens, even for one plant. In general, one light that casts 45,000 lumens is enough to cover a grow space of about 3 feet by 3 feet.This is quite an average space and you'll probably get anything between 1 to 12 Indica plants in that area. Again we must keep in mind the strain that we're growing. One large Sativa plant can cover a nine square foot grow area in no time. Short Indica plants are different. If you really want to pump up your plants, then you could consider a lamp that casts 100,000 lumens or more. If you have a big grow area then you might consider two lamps that cast 100,000 lumens each. It's all relative to how much you want to grow and the size of your grow room.

Let's say that you would like to grow four Indica/Sativa hybrid plants. What you should aim for is a light that casts 45,000 lumens. This means you should buy a 600-watt HID system. If you want to pump up your available light to around 60,000 lumens, you should buy a 1000-watt HID system. If your area is bigger still, you might need two or more 1000-watt HID lights to achieve this.

The General Illumination Formula
You need roughly 50 watts of HPS or MH light per square foot of your grow
area. The simple formula looks like this:
250W HID = 2'x 2'area 400W HID = 3'x 3'area 600W HID = 3.5'x 3.5'area IkW HID = 4'x 4'area

This simple watts-per-square-foot calculation assumes that each square foot of space receives the same lumens but in reality bulbs do not cast lumens equally to all areas of the space. We need to include depth in our calculation. As light travels away from its source, its intensity diminishes by a factor of one quarter each time the distance traveled doubles.

There's nothing wrong with using a 1000-watt HID light on a few plants or even one plant â?? they will grow bigger and better for it â?? but you need to make sure that you choose genetics that can use all the available light. Lighting overkill occurs when a single strong HID light is used to grow a genetically poor yielding plant. You will find that a single 400-watt HID may have been more than enough to grow the plant to optimal maturity. Most strains available from reputable breeders are high-yielding plants, which is why growers can sometimes use a single 1000-watt light and pull sometimes two pounds or more of bud from the one plant.

The other issue is cost. Do you really want to spend all that money on lighting and electricity? HID lights range in price from anywhere between $220 and $700 for a full kit. A faOO-watt H PS kit should cost about $250: money well spent if you want great plants with big buds.

Over time you will understand more about grow rooms and how to light them properly. With experience you should be able to tell intuitively which light suits your needs. As a general rule, when in doubt buy a 400-watt H PS or better. Even a 250-watt H PS can get you good-size buds, but going below that mark will yield you less than average results. Most growers use a 600-watt HPS for better results. 1000-watt lights provide the best yields indoors but consume more electricity.

What to Look for When Buying a Lighting Kit
What type(s) of HID/horticultural light will you use? Some growers will use a
M H setup for seedlings and vegetative growth and a H PS setup for flowering. If
you can only afford one setup, we recommend HPS lighting since it is best for
flowering â?? the stage when cannabis produces the all-important bud.
Is the light kit certified; does it come with a warranty? For obvious reasons.
Is the light kit air-cooled?

Water-cooled light system â?? these inventions have been around for a while but have not caught on because they require a bit of work to maintain. A constant pump of cool water must be circulated into and out of the light system.
Good lights should be air-cooled. Some may even have built-in fans. Lights that are air-cooled tend to last longer and do not heat up your grow area as much. If your light is not air-cooled then you will have to include an air vent and fan in your grow room to keep the temperatures under control.

Remember that your plants can burn if placed too close to your lights. How will the system be supported? Will you use a light stand or suspend your lighting from the ceiling?
Do the electrical fittings suit your needs? Will they plug straight into your system or will you need an adapter or an extension cord?What wattage and lumens can you use with the kit?

Most HID kits can only accommodate a specific wattage of bulb and a certain type of bulb. If you have a 600-watt H PS system, then you should only use 600-watt HPS bulbs. Some lighting kits include a switchable ballast.This means that you can use both MH and HPS lights with the system.

Also, there is such a thing as too much power. A 4000-watt HID is overkill for any small grow room. A 1000-watt bulb is the maximum wattage you should purchase for a small space. Use several 1000-watt bulbs if you need more light. A 4000-watt bulb can bleach cannabis and is very hot.

How to Get the Most from Your Lighting System
Reflectors do exactly what their name implies â?? they reflect light. Growers use reflectors to ensure maximum lumens coverage over their plants. Basically, when light bounces off a reflector it is directed towards your plants, which absorb most of this light. Reflectors should be either white or made of polished metal. Some reflectors have a green plastic film covering the insides. Remove this, if possible.
Some grow guides mention Aluminum foil as a useful material to aid grow room reflection. Some have even mentioned using it to cover up anything that isn't reflective like electrical cords, sockets, reflectors and pots. Aluminum foil is actually a very poor reflector, highly heat conductive and very dangerous to use in a grow room. Aluminum foil only has 30 to 60 percent reflectivity at best, raises the temperature of the item it is used on (the reflector, pot lid, electrical cord, wall etc.), and can burn easily. Avoid using aluminum foil. It is also hard to keep clean and tears easily. Growers who line the walls with Aluminum foil will eventually find the place falling down around them. If you have no option but to use aluminum foil then it is suggested that you use the dull side rather than the shiny side. In the meantime, make sure that you place an order for a cheap can of flat white paint that will give you almost 99 percent reflectivity for a couple of years.
White-colored material is best for reflecting light: not shiny, glossy white, just plain matte white. A white wall will reflect more light than a mirror or foil. Many growers paint the walls of their grow space white. Others line their grow areas with Mylar: a substance that looks like a thick tinfoil sheet. Mylar is, in fact, very popular in cannabis grow rooms. Most DIY (do-it-yourself) and hardware stores sell Mylar in sheets.
It is also recommended that you keep a spare bulb on hand at all times in case the other bulb dies.* It's no good going to the local hardware store only to find that they are out of the bulb you need. You risk leaving your plants without light for a long time.
It is also wise to remember that plants need water and lights use electricity. When mixed, these factors can be extremely dangerous. Be safe and wise and keep your plants and any liquids away from all electrical outlets.

Adjusting Your Lights
If you have a good stand or light support, you should be able to lower or raise your light to accommodate your plants at various stages of the life cycle. You should note that the closer your lighting is to the plants, the more light they will receive. However, get too close and you risk burning your leaves. To see if you are too close, try this simple, common sense test: if you can hold your hand under the light and not feel discomfort, then your plants should do okay. If you feel discomfort, so too will your plants. Use common sense and adjust your lights accordingly.

Some cannabis plants can grow as much as an inch a day. Pure Sativa varieties in particular can triple in height between the start and end of flowering. A four-foot Sativa bush can suddenly turn into a twelve-foot monster in a few months. You need to monitor growth carefully to ensure that your plant doesn't get too close to the light. If your plants do suffer a burn, use clippers to remove the burnt areas and either adjust your lights or cut back your plants to maintain a safe, healthy distance. Tying your plants back may be another option if you have outgrown your space and don't want to clip the plants because of flowering.

Your plants need all the light they can get during the vegetative growth stage. Leave your lights on 24 hours a day and enjoy watching your plants as they grow. During the flowering stage you will shift to the 12/12 light cycle, which is discussed in detail in Chapter 7.

24/0 and 18/6 - The Vegetative Photoperiod
Cannabis is a light demanding plant. Professional growers keep the light on their plants using the 24/0 photoperiod for this reason. Plants that grow under 24/0 flourish and do not need a quantity of darkness in order to rest and perform photosynthesis properly. Plants that are grown in optimal conditions under the 24/0 light regime grow vigorously and the benefits of a 24/0 photoperiod can be seen actively in the results. More nodes are formed, more branches are created, leaf numbers increase, the plant is growing at its finest.

Some growers opt to use 18/6 as their photoperiod. This is an 18 hours of light, six hours of darkness light regime. Under these conditions the plant will grow quite naturally but not as vigorously as the 24/0 photoperiod.

The 18/6 photoperiod expels 3/4 the amount of light that a 24/0 photoperiod does. Although this does not mean that a plant produces 1/4 less leaves, branches and nodes under the 18/6 photoperiod, it certainly does show the correlation between light and cannabis growth. As we have said already, cannabis is a light demanding plant. There are no problems associated with 24/0 and although some have attributed cannabis sexual dysfunction (the hermaphrodite condition) to the 18/6 photoperiod these problems are actually the result of heat stress.

A 24/0 photoperiod requires that your grow room temperature be kept well monitored. The 18/6 option is cheaper to run. You use a quarter less electricity and this will have an impact on your electricity bill. Also the 18/6 photoperiod will generally extend the bulb's lifespan. During the 6 hours of darkness the grow room is allowed to cool down for this period but a well maintained good grow room setup should not require a cooling down period.

24/0 and 18/6 both share the same problem though. Once you start the pho-toperiod you should keep it that way especially when the plants near maturityâ?? the pre-flowering phase. An irregular photoperiod can cause more males than females to develop. It can also cause sexual dysfunction to appear.* Whether you choose 24/0 or 18/6 as your vegetative photoperiod try to keep that photoperiod until your plants are mature enough to express their sex.

Electrical Costs
Everyone who starts out using indoor grow bulbs will probably ask how much they cost to run. The answer to this is â?? it depends on how much your electrical supply company charge per watt or unit of electricity used. There are also times in the day when electricity is cheaper or more expensive to use. In general, one unit of electricity is measured at about 1000-watts per hour. 1000-watts per hour usually works out at about 10 cents but can be cheaper or more expensive than this. Check your electricity bill for the correct price per unit. So in our example:
IkW x 24 hours - IkW x 0.10 x 24 = $2.40 per day = $16.00 per week or $67.20 per month.

A four month 1000-watt grow could cost up to $268.00. Average growers using the right genetics yield about 20 ounces from a IkW single bulb. Experienced growers can go as high as 40 per IkW bulb. Even though the cost of electricity may seem high, the end results easily justify the cost.

SOIL
Soil comes in many types and varieties. As you gain growing experience you will learn to add various ingredients to your soil in order to improve plant growth. The cannabis plant will grow long, winding roots into the soil. These roots absorb water and other minerals from the soil to promote plant growth. The soil also goes through dry periods when you don't water your plant or when the plant has absorbed most of the water. During these dry periods air is allowed to creep between the soil particles, allowing the roots to breathe.
Please note that you should NEVER bring natural outdoor soil into an indoor grow space.This is because the soil will contain bugs and pests that could compromise your grow. Always buy your soil from a gardening shop. Soil should be the cheapest part of your grow.
There are three main factors to consider when selecting the right soil: pH, nutrients and composition.

PH
pH measures the levels of acidity and alkalinity in the soil.The pH scale runs from 1 to 14, with 7 being neutral, 0 very acidic and 14 very alkaline. Cannabis plants like a neutral pH of 7. When choosing your soil you should be looking to achieve a pH of 7, (it should be clearly marked on the bag). Going above or below this mark can create problems for your plant during growth. Small pH meters can be also bought in most gardening shops and used to measure and monitor the overall pH of your soil.

Nutrients
The three major plant nutrients, or macronutrients, found in soil are nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium: NPK, for short. NPK can come in two forms â?? either pre-mixed into the soil or as a stand-alone fertilizer (usually in a bottle). The percentage of each nutrient should be clearly labeled on the packaging, in the following manner: 20:20:20. This indicates 20 percent l\l, 20 percent P and 20 percent K.The remaining 40 percent are other elements that make up the soil.This ratio can vary among different nutrient and soil brands so you need to understand which nutrients cannabis requires, and in what amounts, during the various stages of the life cycle.

Cannabis plants like high levels of N and moderate level of P and K during vegetative growth. You should select a soil that that has all three. When choosing a chemical fertilizer you need a mixture with high N, and P and K levels that are equal to or lower than N. Any of the following combinations would be suitable: 12:12:12, 20:20:20,12:6:6, or 18:4:5.The 12:12:12 and 20:20:20 are best.

During flowering, cannabis needs a higher level of P so you should choose your soil and/or fertilizers accordingly. Since the plants are usually not transplanted between vegetative growth and flowering, you must plan to adjust the pH levels for flowering.*

Composition
Ideally, your soil will have a balanced consistency: not too moist, not too dry.This will allow the roots to absorb the required amounts of both water and oxygen.The packaging should indicate whether the soil is wet or dry, and you should aim for a balance between the two. Wet soil will sometimes cause plant damage by blocking off airflow to the roots. Dry soil may dry out too quickly, starving your roots of moisture. Try to find a soil that is loose and feels fine but slightly heavy in your hands. Do not buy anything that is hard and bulky or soft and weightless. Aim for the middle ground: a balanced composition using a mix of the soil types below.
COMMON SOIL TYPES
There are many types of soil mediums available and we will briefly describe the more common types. Marijuana can be grown in most of these soil types. We have indicated where potential problems could occur.

Clay
Clay is a stiff, tenacious fine-grained earth consisting of hydrated aluminosili-cates that become flexible when water is added. Marijuana roots don't really like clay. Clay can rarely be used on its own to grow cannabis. It is commonly mixed with other soil types to create a medium suitable for cannabis growth.

Humus
Humus is the organic constituent of soil, formed by the decomposition of plant materials, and can be bought in bags at local gardening stores. Most of these products claim to be free of bugs and other living matter, but sometimes this is not 100 percent true. Don't be surprised if you find a worm or green fly in the package. Humus is also sometimes known as compost, but compost is the final mixture of manure (which is of organic origin), loam soil and some other mediums, with added organic matter. Humus is that added organic matter.

Sand and Silts
Sand soils can be pure sand or a mixture of sand and soil. The problem with sandy soil is that it drains water and minerals out too quickly. It is a very dry soil and is not suitable for the cannabis grower's needs.

Silt soils are nearly the same as sand soils, except they have a consistency more like clay and are darker in color. Silts hold nutrients well but do not hold water very well. Like sands they are prone to quick drainage. Sands and silts are rarely used on their own to grow cannabis and are mostly mixed with other soil types.

Loam
Loam tends to be a mix of all of the above. The composition of the mix should be stated on the bag. In fact, in most cases, normal soil purchased in shops has humus, sand, silt and clay already mixed in. When you buy a bag of soil it is nearly always going to be a loam. Loam is a very fertile soil composed chiefly of clay, sand and humus, and is highly recommended for your grow.

Perlite and Vermiculite
One type of artificial medium on the market is called perlite. It's a good medium but doesn't come with any nutrients and generally needs to be mixed with another soil type, vermiculite is another product that should be treated the same way. Perlite and vermiculite are also called 'inert'soils because they do not contain any nutrients. In fact vermiculite is processed mica â?? a naturally occurring mineral. Mix them well with soil if it's your first time using them. Begin with one part substrates for every four parts of soil. With a bit of experience you should be able to control the mixture ratios, as high as a 1:1 ratio. Pure vermiculite mixtures or pure perlite mixtures do not retain moisture very well and thus can only really be used in pure format as a substrate support for hydroponic systems, which we will explain in a Chapter 9.

Moss
Sphagnum and peat moss are the two most common moss type substrates that you will come across on the market. This moss is gathered in bogs and dried out into green, gray, brown and black masses. It is then compressed into blocks and is used as a substrate by gardeners for its ability to absorb and retain nutrients. Moss tends to break down very quickly after successive watering though, and this may require you to add more moss to your mix before the end of harvest.

MIXING SOILS AND SOIL RATIOS
There is no perfect soil mix for cannabis plants.This is because all strains are different. Some cannabis strains prefer lots of nutrients. Others do not because they burn easily. Obviously a less nutrient holding soil mixture is preferable for the plants that burn easily. Here is a list of loam soil mixes to suit different plant needs.
Strains that require high levels of nutrients:
1. I\IPK loam soil (20:20:20)
2. Moss
3. pH up

Mix the soil and moss at a 3:1 ratio. Add pH to balance soil to 7.The high NPK ratio of the loam and added moss makes this a strong nutrient-retaining soil mixture.
Strains that require normal levels of nutrients:
1. NPK loam soil (10:10:10)
2. Perlite or vermiculite
Mix the soil and perlite/vermiculite at a 4:1 ratio.The average N PK ratio of the loam and added perlite makes this a good nutrient-retaining soil mixture.
Strains that do not require high levels of nutrients:
1. NPK loam soil (5:5:5)
2. Sand
3. Perlite or vermiculite
Mix the soil, sand and perlite/vermiculite at a 1:1:1 ratio.This soil mix does not hold minerals or water very well.This is good for a plant that does not need lots of nutrients, however light mixtures like this do require more frequent watering.
All soil mixtures can be changed to suit your plants' needs. In this section, we have looked at soils without focusing much on nutrient ratios or how the nutrients themselves work. Even though the above soil mixtures contain nutrients, they should never be counted on to feed your plants throughout the life cycle. To maintain the nutrient balance over time you must add nutrients to our mix. We will look at this in detail in Chapter 6.
Understanding the NPK Ratio
It is important to understand the NPK ratio that appears on soil packs, fertilizer packs and nutrient bottles. Consider a soil mixture like the following:
1. NPK loam soil (20:10:10)
2. Vermiculite
You would mix 4 parts loam to 1 part vermiculite to create a medium for a plant that needs just above normal amounts of nutrients. Instead of using a balanced 10:10:10 we have gone for the 20:10:10 because we need that little bit more nitrogen. 20:10:10 simply stands for 20 percent N, 10 percent P and 10 percent K. If we add them we get 20+10+10, or 40 percent nutrients. The remaining 60 percent is made up of soil particles, or in bottle foods, water unless otherwise stated on the packaging.

POTS
Pots come in all shapes and sizes. Marijuana plants are best kept in large pots (1.5 to 3-gallon pots) because cannabis grows long roots. You are better off buying a pot that has perforations (holes) at the bottom. Perforated pots should rest in small dishes (you should be able to buy these at the same time you purchase your pots). When you water your plants some of the water may drain down through the soil and come out through the perforations into the dishes. The dishes should be emptied to avoid water spills if you add too much water. Keep in mind that water on the floor can also be an electrical hazard.

Instead of using dishes you could use trays. Trays are more professional, can hold reserve water that is later soaked up by the roots, but are a lot harder to empty if you do have a spill. Although perforations do help to prevent over-watering, you should note that water does leech down some of the nutrients added to your soil. Over-watering can cost you time, wasted nutrients, and can even kill your plants.
More advanced growers use pots that don't contain perforations. This is because experienced growers don't overwater or overfeed their plants.

This is a method known as double potting, which helps create a thicker stem. During vegetative growth, the bottom of the top pot is cut away and is placed on top of a fresh pot of soil. Fresh soil is then packed around the edges to hold the pot in place. The roots grow down into the bottom pot. Look at the size of the cola in this picture by G1YO!
At this stage, you have the best soil you can get
your hands on. You take a seedling, make the
transplant and fill in the empty areas of the new
pot with more soil. Pat down the top of the soil
lightly and apply a stake if support is needed. Add a small amount of water to
your pot and place the pot and plant under the light. You'll leave the light on for
24/0 or 18/6 hours a day and watch as your plants grow over the coming weeks.

By now, you should know how to set up your grow area and make your security arrangements. You will have your lighting kit set up to hang down over your grow area. You will also have some form of light reflection around your plants to help conserve and direct light. You will have obtained seeds, germinated them on a tray, and started preparing to transplant them into larger pots. The larger pots will house the plants throughout the rest of the life cycle, during which time you will provide the best medium possible in which your plants will grow. In the next chapter we will explore how to fine tune aspects of the indoor environment to maximize your yield and get the most from your plants.


end of excerpt

[kindprincess]

from marijuanahydro.com

INDOOR
ENVIRONMENTAL CONTROL

BY NOW YOU HAVE THE KNOWLEDGE YOU NEED to set up the basic environment for your indoor plant. As the grower, you have total control over that environment and you need to make sure it meets all of your plant's needs. This chapter deals with controlling four important environmental factors for plant growth: nutrients, soil, water and air. The most important environmental factor, lighting, was covered in detail in Chapter 5. With the right amount of care in all five areas, your plants with thrive.

NUTRIENT CONTROL
Remember nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (NPIO? These macronutrients are the primary ingredients needed in soil to ensure a healthy marijuana crop. In addition, the secondary supplements Ca (calcium); Mg (magnesium); and S (sulfur), or CaMgS for short can be used to promote plant growth and health, and are also part of the macronutrient group. Secondary supplements are generally found in soil, but not always in sufficient amounts. There are eight additional plant micronutrients: iron (Fe), Boron (b), chlorine (CD, manganese (Mn), copper (Cu), zinc (Zn), cobalt (Co) and molybdenum (Mo). These eight micronutrients are less important for good plant health, than are NPK and CaMgS. Check your soil bag to see if it contains micronutrients.

The nutrients and nutrient levels in your soil can be monitored using either electronic or manual nutrient testers. Most growers however do not have the luxury of such expensive items and have to control everything by hand, using judgement. Don't despair! Growers the world over have successfully tended to plants long before the invention of electronic readers. The key to nutrient control is to plan your feeding in advance of growing your plant. This way, everything else you feed to your plants is simply a supplement to the plan. You can always adjust your plan for future grows of the same strain based on what you learn the first time around. Remember though that each strain is different and will probably require changes to the following basic routine.

1. For seedlings, use a soil with an even NPK ratio, such as 10:10:10 or 5:5:5. No nutrients should be added, but if you do find that need to, add them in very small doses (no more than l/8th of the strength of what it says on the bottle).

2. After germination do not feed for three weeks, unless seedlings show signs of yellowing. In either case, feed them a dose of NPK with an even ratio (10:10:10) or a higher N than P and K ratio (20:10:10) at 1/4 of what is recommended on the label for the first week and continue this once a week until calyx (pre-flowers) show on the plant.
3. If your plant shows any yellowing, increase the feeding strengths until yellowing stops. Increase in small steps from 25 to 33 percent before trying 50 percent or higher. If plant health does not improve, consult chapter 13 on problem solving a nutrient deficiency.
4. In the second week of growth you should be adding secondary nutrients to your plants. Mix secondary nutrients at 1/4 strength of what it says on the bottle. Continue adding secondary nutrients once every other week.

5. Once every 2nd week add micronutrients at 1/4 strength of what it says on the bottle.
6. As soon as calyx development shows, switch to a food with a higher P than N and K ratio (10:20:10). Continue to feed your plants as usual, exchanging the older vegetative food for this new flowering food.

Remember that cannabis burns easily and does not need full strength nutrients.
It is better to increase the frequency of your feeding rather than the strength of your foods if you discover that your plant needs more food.This may be more time consuming, but it reduces the risk of plant burn immensely.

Some plants require more foods in higher doses than others do. The frequency of your feeding and food strengths will vary from strain to strain; however the basic elements of these foods and their composition will not. Your plants need NPK as the basic building blocks of their diet. You need to know how to select for these in soil and you need to know how to keep them in your soil type. Some soils also diminish in nutrients more quickly than others do because of the soil's composition and its nutrient- and water-retaining qualities. Whenever you select a soil type for cannabis try to find one that has an even NPK balance like a 10:10:10. It is easier to maintain this balance if you use a balanced NPK vegetative growth feed. If your soil is higher in P or K then it is hard to balance it using other foods.

FOR EXAMPLE:
A soil type of 10:20:10 needs to be balanced back to 10:10:10 or else the high levels of P will cause the plant problems accessing the other N and K nutrients that it also needs for vegetative growth (also a condition known as 'Nutrient Lockout'}. In order to balance it back you need to wait until the next time you feed and only add 10:0:10 to the soil. This is because you would expect the remaining nutrients in the soil to be already high in levels of P. The hard part is finding a. bottle of nutrients that have 10:0:10 on the label. So in order to avoid this problem we select a balanced soil in the first place.
Growers mainly have four types of nutrients at their disposal: vegetative primary nutrients, flowering primary nutrients, secondary nutrients and micronutrients.The list below contains classic examples of food types that you may find or work with.
1. N10:P10:K10-This is an example of a balanced vegetative primary nutrient pack.
2. N10:P20:K10 -This is an example of a flowering primary nutrient pack.
3. NQ:P20:K10-Tnis is an example of a flowering food without N.
4. N10:PO:K10-This is an example of a vegetative food without P.
5. N10:P20:K20-This is an example of a flowering food that is not suitable for cannabis because of its equal P and K values but lower N values.
6. al:Mgl:Sl -This is an example of a balanced secondary food.
7. Ca2:Mg3:S4 -This is an example of a secondary food.
8. N10:P10:K10:Cal:Mgl:Sl-This is an example of bottle of food that contains both primary and secondary nutrients.
9. N10:PO:KO -This is a pure N supplement.
10. NO:P10:KO -This is a pure P supplement.
Micronutrients are sometimes listed in ratios like NPK values but it is more common to just find micronutrients measurements. One good brand of micronutrient that is used by nearly every grower is called Formulex®.

Growers ensure that at least some secondary nutrients are added to the soil mix or in with feeding routine because some secondary problems are hard to find. Ca problems are awkward to detect because a Ca deficiency only stunts growth and does not appear to display anything else usually associated with a nutrient disorders like: leaf discoloring, rusting, blotching, leaf curling or any other chlorot-ic condition that one would expect.To solve problems like this, growers always try to prevent instead of cure. Ensure that your soil or feeding routine has some sort of secondary nutrient plan incorporated into them.
Professional growers get their supplements in separate packs of N, P and K.That way they have total control over their primary macronutrients. Using these separate packs, they can mix vegetative foods, flowerings foods, pure l\l, pure P and pure K supplements â?? whatever they want and in whatever strengths they want - 20:10:10, 20:5:5, 5:20:5, etc.
Problematic Nutrients
Recalling that some strains may require more of a certain nutrient than others, we know that a balanced food might not have enough of that nutrient to allow the plant to grow without expressing a nutrient disorder. You may have to first identify the strain's 'problematic nutrient(s)' before finding a suitable feeding product. Mg is a common problematic nutrient, which means that many strains are more likely to experience a Mg nutrient disorder. In order to correct this you would have to use either pure Mg, a secondary nutrient feeding product or preferably a secondary nutrient product with higher Mg to Ca and S ratios.

Problematic nutrients are on the increase with stabilized plant breeding. As breeders develop strains for certain characteristics â?? flowering times, potency, yield, colors etc. â?? they sometimes accidentally stabilize other traits like nutrient requirements, smell or taste. Some breeders point out when their strains need more K or Mg, and this is worth taking into consideration when choosing your strain and feeding products. However be suspicious of breeders who claim that you should lower doses of a specific nutrient or range of nutrients. They could be telling you to do this in order to justify the floral and leaf color display that was published in the seed bank catalogue. Nutrient disorders can bring out nice colors in your plants, but you may be sacrificing yield and potency in favor of van image' by not allowing the plant to thrive in optimal conditions. Lack of K can bring out red hues all over your plant. With some strains this can even turn the bud purple. A few common CaMgS problems and treatments are described next.

MACRONUTRIENT DISORDERS: A ROUGH GUIDE
Most micronutrients are used by the cannabis plant in such small quantities that the role they play in plant functionality is quite limited. Also micronutrient disorders are extremely rare with cannabis plants unless you are using a completely neutral substrate with no added nutrients. Most loam soils already contain micronutrients so you do not need to add much, if any. Good growers, however, will always top up on low doses of micronutrients because they know that prevention is better than cure.

Macronutrients on the other hand are very important plant nutrients used widely by the plant throughout its grow. This guide will explain how these macronu-trients work and how to spot macronutrient disorders in your garden.

Nitrogen (N)
Like most plants, cannabis uses N more than any other nutrient â?? especially during the vegetative growth stage of the life cycle. N directly helps the plant to create chlorophyll, which is used in photosynthesis for the production of plant energy. Without sufficient levels of N, cannabis plants turn a pale yellow-green, starting with the bottom leaves and gradually moving up to the top of the plant. Eventually the leaves wither and fall off. Lack of N also stunts plant growth.

Phosphorous (P)
Like most plants, cannabis uses P during photosynthesis to create chemical compounds essential to plant growth, especially floral development during the flowering phase of the life cycle. Lack of P causes plant veins to turn red and also stunts plant growth. Foods that are high in P are also called xBloom'foods.

Potassium (K)
K assists the plant's chemical synthesis and overall metabolism. Some chemical synthesis processes are used to help fight disease, so lack of potassium can make your plant vulnerable to plant diseases like mold, fungi and wilt. K also assists in seed and stem development. Without sufficient K, stems and branches become weak and break. Necrotic patches develop on leaf tips at the base of the plant and in blotchy patterns in the middle of those leaves. Red stems are a sign of a K problem, but red stems can be a genetic trait in some plants, especially in equatorial strains, and cold temperatures can cause stems to turn red as well. Be careful not to misdiagnose these symptoms as a K deficiency and risk overfeeding your plant.

Calcium (Ca)
Plant cells use and store Ca for cell development. Ca problems are rare and the symptoms are almost undetectable in cannabis, but if left untreated they will stunt growth and eventually cause the plant to wilt. If your plants display stunted growth yet do not display any symptoms associated with a another nutrient disorder then adjust the amount of Ca that you are adding to your plants in the feeding plan. To prevent secondary nutrient problems like our Ca problem here, which are hard to detect, you should top up on all of the secondary nutrients together.

Sulfur (S)
Like K, S assists the plant's chemical synthesis and metabolism. It is also used in the creation of amino acids and proteins. Without S, new growth is yellow and pale looking. The rest of the plant will also eventually yellow from lack of S. It is important to catch S and l\l deficiencies early, before they advance to the stage where it is difficult to detect the actual cause of the problem. l\l disorders run from the bottom of the plant upwards. S starts at new growth formations and spreads from there. A severe case of an S deficiency looks exactly like a severe case of an l\l deficiency, so check your plants regularly to increase your chances of early detection.

Magnesium (Mg)
Chlorophyll is a group of magnesium containing green pigments that occur in plants, giving the characteristic green color to foliage and acting as absorbers of light for photosynthesis. Since Mg is central to chlorophyll production, the plant needs it to carry out photosynthesis. Plants with Mg problems exhibit both yellowing and leaf curl, especially leaves that curls upwards at the base of the plant. This is where the saying â?? The plant is praying for magnesium' comes from.

Mg problems are the most common secondary nutrient disorder you will come across. To correct this, feed your plant 1/3 of a tablespoon of Epsom salts per three gallons of water every three to four weeks. You should choose Epsom salts from your grow shop instead of Epsom salts from the drugstore because the grow shop version is designed for plant use (easier to break down in water). You also get a lot more Epsom salts for your money if you buy it in a grow shop. If your soil does not contain Mg, you will need to use a feeding product that contains Mg. You should be able to buy secondary feeding products from your local grow shop. They come either in liquid, powder or granular format. Avoid using granules because they take more time to break down in the soil. Granule type foods tend to be ^slow release' foods. 'Formulex' is a good secondary food product that can be used to correct Mg problems.

Micronutrient problems rarely occur unless there is a problem with lockout. Lockout is a chemical reaction that takes place with the nutrients in the soil and can occur if a large amount of one single nutrient is added or if salt gets into your mixture. Old nutrient formulas can also cause lockout. It is simply a chemical reaction similar to a precipitation, which results in the combining of nutrients to form new chemical compounds that the plant can not use. Lockout is hard to detect. If you have problems with a disorder that you can not seem to solve by adding more of the missing nutrient, then you need to consider that this nutrient is locked out. If lockout does occur you will need to flush your soil. Soil flushing is described later in this chapter.

Feeding
Feeding is the process of adding nutrients that the plant has removed back into your soil. We mentioned that you would need a maximum of four feeding solutions throughout your plants' growth. The first is to be used during vegetative growth, the second during flowering and the third and fourth only as needed. Plant food comes in all different forms â?? from solids, to liquids, to sprays, to powders, to granules.The most common form is liquid and this comes in either bottles or large containers.

You should only feed your plants when they need increased nutrition. Otherwise, you will risk burning them. What this means is that you need to be able to judge when cannabis plants need food. In the previous section we looked at certain nutrient formulas and feeding routines, for example one feeding every seven days at 1/4 strength of what it says on the label during vegetative growth.

Some cannabis strains will need N more than others. You can detect this if your plants start to yellow at the base in first few weeks of vegetative growth. If this happens, reduce your feeding schedule from seven days to five days, then three, and so on until you solve the yellowing. This will tell you how often you need to feed your plants at 1/4 strength. Instead of watering at 1/4 strength* more frequently, you could feed your plants a higher-strength nutrient mixture, but you increase the risk of burning your plants this way. Even though plant burn does not usually kill a plant if you solve the problem quickly, it can stunt and stress growth.

The amount of feed that you'll use is relative to your growing conditions and strain. You should never have to feed cannabis daily. In fact, the most nutrient-consuming cannabis strains should only need to be fed once every five days at 75% strength. Marijuana plants burn easily so never mix your solution at 100 percent. We will note some exceptions to this rule below, but they are very uncommon. In all other situations you should abide by the rule. If the instructions say to use 1 capful of feed per gallon of water, then aim for 1/4 strength by using one cap to every four gallons. If the instructions say to use one capful of feed per two liters of water and you know that your plants need lots of nutrients then go for 1/2 strength by using one cap to every four liters of water.

Try not to reduce the cap size in your feeding equation because 1/4 caps tend to be only enough to feed a plant or two. When you mix plant food you will want to be able to feed many of your cannabis plants as possible.Three-gallon watering cans are best for the job if you have six plants or more. It is possible to burn plants even at half strength, so take care when feeding and observe the behavior of your plants after feeding. If any of the leaf edges crumple up and appear dark green/brown and flaky, then you have probably burned your plants. The only way to solve plant burn is with a soil flush. We will discuss this procedure later in this Chapter.

There are some situations that call for mixing nutrient solutions at 100 percent strength but these are not common. They are:
1. If you are using 'special' cannabis nutrients. These are manufactured and sold in some European countries and can be legally imported into many other countries. You should still take security precautions when buying and storing these items, however, and make sure that it is not illegal to purchase or own them where you live. 'Special' cannabis nutrients are simply normal nutrients mixed at lower strengths so that they will not burn cannabis.

2. If your solution contains nutrient values of less than 5 percent. Doses of values lower than 5 percent on the bottle need to be mixed at higher ratios for some plants. An NPK value of 5:5:5 contains only 15 percent nutrients in the solution; the other 85 percent is usually just water. At 25 percent strength this nutrient solution will contain low nutrient values, so a more nutrient-hungry strain should be fed a higher-strength mixture. Some strains can use a 5:5:5 solution at 100 percent strength but this is not recommended because of potential plant burn.

3. If your individual plants are extremely large and flowering. Large, outdoor hybrid strains can consume lots of water and nutrients daily. In Australia, there are hybrid Sativa strains that grow to near tree-like proportions. Even though growers take care to ensure that the soil around the plant is rich in nutrients they may need to feed these plants more often to improve bud growth during flowering with a strong bloom mix. A 100 percent solution may help boost the plant but only if the grower is certain that the mixture will be spread evenly around the base. By watering in a circle starting from the base of the plant and moving outwards, the grower can ensure that the strong solution has been distributed evenly to the area surrounding the plant.The soil around the plant will absorb the new minerals at 100 percent strength and the roots will find these as they grow outwards. This kind of 100 percent boost can be good for large plants.

As a final note to this section it would be wise to point out that you should never put food directly from the bottle into your plant's soil.This probably will kill your plant. Always mix it with water first or you could end up having to perform an emergency soil flush.

SOIL CONTROL
As your plant grows through its life cycle; it absorbs minerals from the soil and deposits waste material of its own. We have already stated that cannabis plants need a steady pH level of 7.The removal of nutrients and addition of waste material can cause soil pH levels to fluctuate.

PH
You should check the pH level of your soil at least once every week and one or two days after feeding. A pH test kit can be purchased from most grow shops. Be aware that the electronic test kits can be expensive. pH test kits are unfortunately the only way to test your mixture's pH. If you find that your soil's pH has shifted out of the 6 to 8 range you need to bring the level back to 7. Recall that below 7 is acidic and above 7 is alkaline.There are two ways to adjust the pH of the soil, and these are described below. You can also perform a soil flush. Soil flushing is not recommended except for in extreme circumstances, such as serious pH fluctuations or chemical burns, and is described in detail later in this chapter.

++ pH - Bringing Back to Neutral from Acidic
If your soil's pH is too acidic you will want to bring it back to a neutral 7. You can do this using lime (alkaline calcium oxide), a brittle white caustic solid obtained by heating limestone. Lime can be bought in small containers from any grow shop and added to your soil the next time you water your plant. Only add small amounts each time, testing the pH the next day to monitor the effects. You'll find that, over time, you will get to know your soil and what it needs. Advanced growers know by trial and error how much lime they need to use to push acidic soil back to a pH level of 7.
++ pH - Bringing Back to Neutral from Alkaline
If the pH of your soil is too alkaline then you will want to bring it back to a neutral 7 by adding small amounts of any of the following:
â?¢ Cottonseed meal
â?¢ Lemon peels
â?¢ Coffee grounds
â?¢ A high-acidity fertilizer
Always introduce small amounts of the substance, checking the pH level the next day and readjusting as necessary. Over time, you'll know what measures to use for different pot sizes and soil mixes.
++ pH up / pH down
Chemical pH products are growing in popularity among professional growers. They essentially act as a chemical agent for adjusting your soil pH and are available in most grow shops. They come in two forms: up and down. There is also a third type of pH solution called a buffer. The buffer solution is always a neutral 7 and is used to calibrate instruments so that they read correctly when you use them to test pH.

Both pH up and pH down come in liquid form. pH down contains nitric acid at roughly 38 percent strength and pH up contains potassium hydroxide at roughly 50 percent strength. Always check the label to make sure.The rest of the solution is usually just water. It is not a good idea to use your pH caps as measuring devices as this could result in foreign elements being introduced into the pH solution.

To adjust pH, read the instructions on the bottle carefully. It is wise to use a clean syringe for measuring how much of the pH up or down formula you need to use but a beaker or plastic measuring jug will do. Carefully add the recommended amount to water and mix well.Then, add this to your soil mixture and check your pH level with a reader. In general, 0.5 ml of pH up or pH down will move the solution by +/-0.1 pH per three gallons of mixture. A normal size syringe will usually drop out anywhere between 0.1 ml and 0.5 ml at a time.

FOR EXAMPLE:
Say you have a three-gallon pot system and your soil tests at a level of 5.6 pH. You need to move this up to a stable 7 so you need to go +1.4 pH by using pH up. Here's how to do it. Simply fill a watering can with three gallons of water and test it using a pH meter to get the reading of the water. If it is 7 then all is fine. If not then you need to balance the water to 7 before adding the +1.4 pH up. So if your water has a pH of 6 then you need to add 2.4 pH up (1.4 pH up + 1.0 pH up) to bring the soil mixture back to 7 after watering. 2.4 pH up roughly translates to about 12 ml of pH up. Use a pH reader to test the end results, which should be +8.4 pH. Simply add this pH-treated water to the soil, which has a pH of 5.6 and it should balance back to 7 again. Check your soil's pH a day or two after treatment to confirm this.

pH is important because low or high pH levels can cause nutrient lockout to occur. pH irregularities can also cause growth stunting, leaf spots and wilting. Always check the pH level of your soil before treating a nutrient problem. Another thing to note is that nutrient formulas have their own pH levels and you can use your pH reader to check a nutrient solution's pH level. You may need to balance the nutrient pH using the method of control we have outlined above. Serious pH irregularities occur in cannabis either when the pH drops below 5.5 in soil or goes above 8. The normal level of 7 induces optimal growth. It must also be noted at this point that the pH level and treatment of hydroponic solutions is very different to soil.

WATER CONTROL
Water your plant at least every second or third day, or better still, as needed. Never let the soil dry out completely for long periods of time. The following method works well with good-sized three-gallon pots:
â?¢ Day A - water
â?¢ Day B - let dry
â?¢ Day C - let dry
â?¢ Day D - check soil and water if needed
Your watering schedule will really depend on the size of your pots and soil type. If you pick up your pot when it's dry, then try to pick up the same pot when it has been watered, you will feel the difference in weight. This is one way to judge if your pots need watering.

You can detect signs of underwatering and overwatering simply by observing your plants' leaves. Watch your plants for two to three days after you have watered them. Do the fan leaves point outward to receive more light or do they wilt downward? Wilting leaves can be a sign of either underwatering or overwatering. Check your soil. Is it dry? If so, then add more water. You may find that you need to water every day because your lighting discharges a lot of heat and your soil is a quick-draining kind. If your soil is wet, then leave the soil to dry out until your leaves pick up again. You'll eventually establish a pattern for your plants' watering needs.

Be aware that overwatering will eventually kill your plants. If this happens, you can only let the soil dry out and hope for the best. Using a fan near the surface of the soil is the single best way to help solve an overwatering problem. Transplants are difficult to do with wet soil. If you think you need to perform a transplant because of overwatering then do so â?? but remember that the soil will be wet and break up easily in your hands. Try and do the transplant quickly and neatly over a short working distance.

AIR CONTROL
During the vegetative growth and flowering stages, cannabis plants love to get fresh air. Bearing in mind security â?? if you have a window in your grow leave it open for a while and let your grow room refresh itself every day. Also, during the dry periods in between watering, the roots like to breathe. The fresher the air, the better. During winter you may want to reduce the time that the windows are open as the cold may stunt growth. Just refresh the air in your room for 15 to 20 minutes during winter and close it again. If your grow is enclosed, without windows, then use fans to extract the old air outside and another fan intake to refresh the system.

Odor Control
To say that we smell with our noses is like saying we taste with our lips.The nose channels air to our olfactory epithelium, a patch of cells which reside at the end of the nasal cavity. The olfactory epithelium senses the different compositions in the air and detects odorous molecules which gives us the effect of smell.

Cannabis plants continue to release odorous molecules into the air throughout their life. In vegetative growth the cannabis plant has a detectable odor which starts around the 1st week of vegetative growth and gradually increases until the end of the grow. This scent is very unique to the cannabis plant and can be described as a sharp, pleasingly pungent, freshly cut grass type of smell. In the flowering stages the plant tends to release numerous odorous molecules into the air in very large amounts.These scents are like the freshly cut grass type of smell coupled with fruity, forest, hash, skunk or chemical type odors. Cannabis naturally has a diverse range of smells and odors as the result of recombining its genetic material through natural selection and breeding (see Chapter 15).
You must deal with odorous molecules before they leave the grow room if you wish to prevent cannabis smells from traveling. Cannabis growers have found three ways to deal with this. These are:
â?¢ Ionizing â?¢ Ozone Generating â?¢ Activated Carbon Air Filtering

Ionizing
Ionizers are air purification systems that control - odors, smoke, mold, bacteria, chemical gases, mildew, stale air, pollen, dust and static electricity. Air ionization systems work by outputting negative ions into the area they are operated in. These negative ions are used to neutralize odor molecules that are in the air.The ions will attract the odorous molecules to them and when attached to the odorous molecule will deactivate the odor molecule by neutralization. Some ions will cause the odorous molecules to fall to the ground so that they will not remain airborne. The problem with ionizing is that these deactivated particles and negative ions tend to stick to surfaces such as the floor, pots, plant leaves, walls, lights, reflectors, ballasts and ducting. Some of the deactivated particles may be extracted by the outtake fan but your grow area will require cleaning every month if you use an Ionizer.

Ionizers are cheap to buy but are only suitable for smaller growing operations where up to six medium sized plants are concerned. Growers still use them but there are better options of odor control available to you.

Ozone Generating
Ozone is also known as activated oxygen. Activated oxygen contains three atoms rather than two which is what we normally breathe. Ozone is a very vigorous sterilizer. Ozone can be found in nature but we can also buy units that generate ozone. Ozone has a lifespan of about 30 minutes. When ozone (03) comes in contact with odorous molecules, one of the ozone atoms detaches itself from the ozone and attaches itself to the odorous molecules. This oxidizes the cell walls of the odorous molecules which eventually destroys the odorous molecules leaving only oxygen behind.

Ozone does have some setbacks. Too much ozone is not good for plant health or human health although most ozone generators are specially adapted to render the health risks of ozone obsolete. The legal exposure limit for human beings is around O.lppm for a maximum of eight hours. Ozone generators that are used for horticultural purposes tend to only generate 0.05 ppm and a timed rate so that exposure is kept to a minimal amount.
Ozone generators are better at controlling cannabis odors than Ionizers.

Activated Carbon Air Filtering
Activating carbon is the safest most effective way of dealing with cannabis odors and is part of any professional grow room. Charcoal is carbon. When we treat charcoal with oxygen it opens up millions of pores in the carbon atoms. This type of treated charcoal is known as activated charcoal and is the main ingredient of our activated carbon filter. The activated charcoal is usually broken down into pellets so that it can be used with air filtering units.

Activated charcoal absorbs odorous molecules by chemical attraction. The activated charcoal is contained in a metal tube with filters screening the air that passes through.
The whole unit is called an activated carbon filter and is attached near your out-take vent. Not all activated carbon filters use charcoal. Some activated carbon is made from the husks of coconuts. Activated carbon filters need the carbon changed every couple of months. You will know when to change the carbon if it no longer filters out odorous molecules. Activated carbon can be found in most good filter supply stores. Make sure that you choose activated carbon pellets. There is another form of activated carbon called crushed activated carbon but this is not as effective as the version that comes in pellet form.

VENTILATION
Ventilation is a very important aspect of indoor environment control. Most cannabis flowers are sticky. Dust sticks to bud. So your ventilation system must not be allowed to blow dust into or around your grow room. This is simply done by keeping the grow room clean and making sure that all air intakes are equipped with screens. You will have to clean the screens every so often to maintain a clean air flow into your grow room.
You will also need to ventilate your grow room if it gets too hot for your plants. This is the primary reason why most growers need a ventilation system.The other reason is to prevent the humidity from increasing in the grow room, which can cause mold and other plant problems. Fresh air also contains gases (oxygen, nitrogen, carbon dioxide and traces of other gases) some of which are used up by the plants in the growing environment. This causes levels of these gases to fluctuate in the grow room. If a grow room does not have adequate ventilation then these gases will not be replaced and this causes problems with plant health. In order to provide optimal conditions for cultivating cannabis we must have a well ventilated grow space.

All good growers spend time getting their ventilation right before they start their grow. Here is a list of reasons to have a good ventilation system in your grow room.
1. To prevent mold.
2. To replenish various gases in the air.
3. To stabilize humidity.
4. To control air flow.
5. To boost yield using a slow release carbon dioxide system (covered at the end of this Chapter).

There are two main components in a ventilation system: the passive intake (air in) and the vent (air out). The vent should be located high up in your grow room because hot air rises. The vent should come equipped with a fan to push air out through the vent. Odor control devices (activated carbon filters, charcoal filters) are usually attached to or located near the vent.

When the fan has sucked all the air out of the room through the vent, it will create a vacuum. Air will need to get back into your grow room again so it will find any way in that it can. Holes in the walls, frame and roof are all vulnerable spots where air can be pulled in. Since we want our airflow to be under control we need to make sure that all false air intake spots are sealed first.

The passive intake (with a screen to prevent dust from getting in) should be installed low in the grow room so that, as air is brought in from outside, it passes through, around and over the plants. This air will help to cool the plants and the space between the lighting and the cannabis top colas before finally being extracted by the vent. Dust will also be forced out the vent. Passive intakes do not require a fan but some growers do use them to regulate how much air enters the room.

Nearly every cannabis grow room uses the above scenario for ventilation. Spend time designing your ventilation before you set up your grow room. The cost of setting a good system up is much lower than you think. Air-cooled hoods for HID lights need to be used in conjunction with a vent.

Fans
Fans can be placed quite close to mature marijuana plants and a slight breeze helps them to develop stronger stems and branches. Fans also circulate the air around your plants, simulating an outdoor environment. A fan's ability to 'move' air from one location to another is measured in cfm (cubic feet per minute). You should aim to replace the air in your grow room at least once a minute. If your room is hot then you may need to remove the air in your room as much as five times a minute. On average, growers use a fan with the capacity to circulate the room's air three times in one minute.

FOR EXAMPLE: If your grow room is 2 X 5 X 5 then it is 50 cubic feet in size. For this grow room you need a fan that ranges somewhere between 150 cfm (3 X 50 cfm) and 250 cfm (5 X 50 cfm). In this example, the 150 cfm fan can move all of the air out of the grow room 3 times per minute.The 250 cfm fan will do it five times a minute. The rate at which you want the air to be removed from your grow room depends on:
â?¢ How hot it gets inside the room.
â?¢ How cold the air outside is.
â?¢ If you are using C02.
You can find the xcfm' written on the side of the fan. Squirrel cage type fans are highly recommended.

Sometimes a very good air extraction system causes areas of the grow room to receive less of the new air than others. If you want to ensure that all areas of the grow room receive adequate amounts of fresh air then use a regular domestic oscillating fan. Oscillating fans also help to build up thick stems and branches.The speed at which you set your fan depends on how much the plants move. Plants like movement but too much can make them uproot or fall over. Use common sense with these type of fans.

HUMIDITY
Cannabis plants grow best under conditions between 40 and 80 percent relative humidity (rH). rH is the amount of water in the air. Introducing fresh air into the environment is the best way to control humidity. In short, if you have installed a good air circulation system then you should not have a problem with the humidity in your grow room. If your air has a high humidity level then you will need to purchase a dehumidi-fier. These expensive items are used to control rH in the room. They do this by simply cooling the air that travels through the unit causing it to condense and loose some of its water vapor.
Cannabis grows well at levels of between 40 percent and 80 percent rH. If you have a rH measuring kit you can judge for yourself how much fresh air you need in order to achieve the optimum 60 percent level. These measuring kits are also expensive to buy and usually have to be ordered in by your local grow store. Good cannabis growers try to avoid the cost of dehumidifiers and rH monitors by simply installing a good air circulation system from day one.

TEMPERATURE
Cannabis likes the same temperature that people do, so the best meter for temperature control is you. If you find it's too cold in your grow room, so will your plants. Under normal circumstances, room temperature is easily controlled by thermostat, but in your grow space, lighting will impact on temperature. You should aim for 75 degrees Fahrenheit, but slightly warmer temperatures do help plants to grow a bit more quickly.
Monitor your room's temperature with one or more thermometers. Hot air rises so you can expect that the temperature of the air above the thermometer will be hotter than the air under it. Using more than one thermometer, you get an idea of the temperature ranges in your room (at root level and canopy or light level).

You do not want to go above 85 degrees Fahrenheit. If you do, you will only heat stress* your plants and stunt growth. Going above 125 degrees Fahrenheit can kill cannabis but this depends on the strain. Some equatorial strains can still grow at 125 degrees Fahrenheit as their genetic make-up can withstand it. In order to cool the room, you will need to ventilate it either by opening a window or installing a ventilation system, as described above.

During the flowering phase of the life cycle you will after the photoperiod to what is called 12/12. The procedure known as 'changing the photo-period to 12/12' is explained in detail in Chapter 7. 12/12 means that for 12 hours your grow room lights will be on and for the next 12 hours they will be switched off. Since bulb heat contributes to the grow room's temperature, the temperature will drop when the lights are out- During the dark periods of the flowering phase the temperature is allowed to drop down as
far as 55 degrees Fahrenheit. You should prevent temperatures going lower than 55 degrees at night because this stunts growth. Below 30 and you can expect serious plant damage. If the temperature does drop below 55 during the dark period then you need to heat the grow room. The best way to do this is using an electric heater. For an average-size grow room, a small, portable heater that plugs into a domestic socket will do.

TIMERS
Timers are important devices for controlling when lights, heaters, fans and any other electrical units in your grow should be switched on or off. Some lighting kits, ballasts and fans come with built-in timers. If you do not have a built-in timer you can buy one from any good home electrical store or grow shop. Timers simply act as a regulator between your power source and the device that needs the electricity. You plug your device into the timer and then you plug the timer into your electrical output. Some timers have a digital display and others have an analog display. Simply set your timer to turn on when you want the device to turn or and to turn off at the time you want your device to turn off.
Timers should not be overloaded. Current must pass through the timer unit so you may need to use multiple timers in your grow room. To understand your timer'; limits consult the manual that comes with it.

C02 (CARBON DIOXIDE)
C02 is a gas that helps promote plant growth, especially floral growth. About 0.03 percent by volume of the Earth's atmosphere is made up of carbon dioxide. Carbon dioxide is natural and not harmful. Plants absorb carbon dioxide from the air and use it for photosynthesis. If the supply of carbon dioxide stops, so does the process of photosynthesis. Increasing the supply of carbon dioxide increases photosynthesis.
Millions of years ago there was much more carbon dioxide in the atmosphere. Somehow plants have still not lost their ability to process high doses of carbon dioxide which leads to lots of plant vigor at a faster speed of growth. The atmosphere on Earth today is different and has slowed down plant development â?? you could say that we have a planet full of underdeveloped plants!

Plants will use carbon dioxide in any growing environment. Using a simple air circulation system in your grow room will help replenish the carbon dioxide the plants have used. If you want to increase plant size, yield and vigor, and speed up growth you need to look closely at increasing carbon dioxide levels.

Carbon dioxide can triple yields. A one-ounce plant can quickly become a three-ounce plant but this depends largely on the plant's genetics. Every cannabis strain has a genetic threshold for bud production. It will not exceed that limit, even under optimal growing conditions. Introduction of supplementary carbon dioxide ensures that your plants will hit their optimal rate of growth. You do not need supplementary carbon dioxide to grow high-yielding plants but the noticeable effects on the speed and quantity of bud production with supplementary CC-2 places the gas in the same category of importance for high yields as 'plant genetics' and Might source'.

Carbon dioxide "generators' are expensive industrial units that burn fuel to produce carbon dioxide. Although you can buy different types of generators that use a range of diverse fuel sources, they are really only suitable for very large indoor or greenhouse growing operations. Most growers who use carbon dioxide in their grow room choose aHimed release'system.This is simply a unit that releases a certain amount of compressed carbon dioxide from a tank at a timed rate of release.

Carbon dioxide tanks can be bought and refilled at any good welding supply store. It is best to use a welding supply store over any other type of store when you acquire carbon dioxide. If anyone asks â?? you are welding something. They ar also the perfect place to refill your carbon dioxide canisters. Carbon dioxide ca also be purchased from most 'fuel depots'. The tanks come in different shapes am sizes but you should aim for multiple 20-pound tanks or the 50-pound type if yoi have a lot of grow space. We will calculate exactly how much carbon dioxide t< introduce into your growing environment in the next section. Twenty-pound tank; are easier to lift, move and fit into your grow room. Also, using multiple tank: allows you to refill on carbon dioxide while the other tank is releasing carbor dioxide into your grow room. Once you have a tank of carbon dioxide you need tc purchase a tank regulator (an infrared sensor or combination flow meter will alsc do) and a timer. The tank regulator controls the quantity of carbon dioxide emitted and the timer controls when the gas is released.

Calculating How Much Carbon Dioxide You Need
How much carbon dioxide you need is quite straight forward but requires a bit o information about your grow room and ventilation system. Here are the steps yoi need to take:
1. Calculate the volume of your grow in cubic feet by multiplying the length x width x height of the room.
2. There is already carbon dioxide present in the room. It should be around 300 ppm (parts per million). The optimal level for cannabis is 1500 ppm. You will need to increase carbon dioxide levels by 1200 ppm.
3. Multiply the grow room in cubic feet by 0.0012 to find out how much carbon dioxide you need to supplement your room to 1500 ppm.
FOR EXAMPLE:
1. A 10 x 10 x 10 room is 1000 cubic feet in size.
2. 1000 x 0.0012 = 1.2 cubic feet.
3. 1.2 cubic feet of carbon dioxide will be needed to bring this room up to 1500 ppm.
If you have an air-circulation system in your grow room you may wish to reducd the speed of your fan to prevent carbon dioxide from being vented too quickN (after all you are paying for it and you don't want to waste too much of it). If you reach 1500 ppm for carbon dioxide in your grow room you are allowed an increase of temperature to 95 degrees Fahrenheit because the increased carbon dioxide allows cannabis plants to grow in these temperatures without stressing them. If this does heat stress your plants then try to increase your ppm to 2000 which should be better for your plants in temperatures of 95 degrees Fahrenheit. If you find that slowing down the vent fan to keep carbon dioxide in the room is still causing your plants heat stress then you simply need to regulate how many times carbon dioxide is released into your system with every air change.The more often air is vented out, the more carbon dioxide you need to release. A hose can be used in conjunction with the regulator to ensure that the carbon dioxide escapes at a point that is furthest away from your vent. This ensures that as many plants as possible get access to the COa before it finally is vented out.

Remember that heat stress stunts growth, voiding the benefits of any carbon dioxide supplement. Get your air circulation right before you introduce high levels of carbon dioxide into the grow environment. A good air circulation system should be flexible enough to allow for a slow carbon dioxide release system to work. It is just a matter of controlling the timing of the release, the amount to be released and how much air must be moved out of the grow room in order to keep it within a certain range of temperatures. During 12/12, carbon dioxide is turned off for the dark period, because without light there is little photosynthesis.

CLIMATE CONTROLLERS
These devices serve multifarious tasks in the grow room. Much like a timer they regulate the activity of the electrical device(s) they are connected too. Climate controllers also go by the names of: environment controllers, climate monitors and climate sensors. They come in both analogue and digital formats. The more expensive the climate controller, the more functions it has and the more devices it can control. Climate controllers can be used to regulate the following systems in your grow room:
LIGHTS
VENTILATION AND EXTRACTION
C02 DISBURSEMENT
HUMIDITY
PUMPS

The climate controller is usually fastened into your grow room wall. The devices that the unit is controlling plug into the separate slots of the climate controller. The controller itself is then plugged into your electrical mains and turned on.
Expensive climate controller are self-regulated and come with built-in sensors that detect when the controller should be activated for a specific task or a set of tasks. You set how it controls those tasks, with the setting of the controller.

By way of example an advanced climate controller can be setup to do the following:
During the photoperiod the climate controller regulates the 12/12 pho-toperiod by turning the lights on for 12 hours and off for 12 hours. The controller monitors the heat in the room, which will vary when the lights are on and off.The heat sensors of the controller adjust the speed of the extraction fans to accommodate for the change in heat to meet your settings. If the temperature drops below your established temperature the controller turns on the heating device that you have attached to it to meet your fixed temperature or temperature range. At the same time the controller can also regulate C02 systems and Humidifiers in the grow room.

How much you want to spend on a controller depends on how many devices you want it to control and how much control you want over these devices. There are many controllers available to suite small to large tasks.

C.A.P, is a popular manufacturer of climate controllers and they have a product range varying from simply controllers for small grow rooms to full size greenhouse controllers. Consult your grow store for details on the type of the controller you are looking for. Basic controllers start at around $60.00 and expert controllers can cost up to $2000.00
60 Indita/Sativa hybrids in ttie final week before harvest.

SOIL FLUSHING
A soil flush is a last resort when all else has failed, as in the following scenario.
In this hypothetical situation, you are using a soil that holds a lot of water and you want to feed your plant. You take out the appropriate feeding bottle, add it straight to your plant and pour the water in after. (This is never recommended. Always mix your plant food with water in a container, such as a jug or watering can, before administering it to your plant.} As you move to pour the correct dose over the soil, your hand shakes and the bottle spills. The next thing you know, half of your raw feeding liquid has managed to find its way into the soil. You curse yourself for not following the instructions. What should you do? You pick up this book and turn to this page. You read about the soil flush and see that your plant still has a slim chance of survival. You know that all the raw chemicals could kill your plant and this is your last resort.

Here is how to flush your soil. ++ STEP A.
(1) Take the potted plant to a sink.
(2) Turn the plant on its side, making sure not to bend or break the stem.
(3) If you think the stem will break then find a long stick and place it in the soil, use thread to secure the plant to the stick at several points and secure the stick to the pot.
(4) Tilt the potted plant on its side so that the top of the pot with the soil is facing at an angle toward the sink.
(5) Do this until all the liquid has poured out, noting the color of the liquid that runs out. Some nutrients will dye the water a pink, brown or yellow color. You may see a hue to this water coming out. When this changes color after the flush you know that all the nutrients are flushed out. If the nutrient does not dye the water you can still continue the flush. Just pour everything out.
++ STEP B.
If your pot is perforated continue. Otherwise, proceed to Step C.
(1) Pull your plant back up and sit it in the sink.
(2) Pour lots of water on top of the soil.
(3) Wait until the water flows out the bottom of the pot, observing the color of the flow as in step A.
(4) Repeat this process until the color of the water becomes clearer. The soil will get very muddy when you do this and some of the mud will pass out with the water. Try and keep hold of as much of as it as you can.)
(5) Once the water runs clear tilt your plant on its side again and wait for all the water to drain out.
(6) If your feeding solution doesn't have a color then flush water through the plant a number of times to ensure that all the nutrients are flushed out.This usually takes about seven flushes with a three-gallon pot. Remember that if you see color change then all your nutrients are flushed out and you do not need to flush anymore.

(7) Quickly take your plant to a warm, dry area and wait for the soil to dry out.
(8) Proceed to Step D.
++ STEP C.
(1) You can use a screwdriver to make holes in your pot if it is made of lightweight plastic. You can always use thick masking tape later to patch the holes up. If you do this, then follow Step B. If you can't do this, then you need to perform an emergency transplant.
(2) Prepare a new pot with soil, leaving a large gap in the middle where your plant will go.
(3) Take your plant and use a knife to cut around the edge of the soil as close to the rim of the pot and as deep as you can.
(4) Put your fingers in down around the inside of the rim and gently pull the plant and soil out of the pot. Try not to damage the roots.
(5) Hold the soil over the sink and place it down near the drain holding it together with your hands. If your root mass is big you may need help.
(6) Turn on the water and let it run slowly down over the soil.
(7) Keep holding the plant for a number of minutes until you see a change in the color of the water that's coming from the soil. Do not crush the soil just hold it. It will get muddy and will break up a bit, but this is to be expected.
(8) When the water changes, place the plant into the new pot.
(9) Fill up the spaces with new soil and use a stick to prop up your plant if needed.
(10)Quickly take your plant to a warm dry area and wait for the soil to dry out.
(11) Proceed to Step D.

STEP D.
(1) Every day measure the pH of the soil. If you have flushed your plant properly it should return to the near 7 mark (given that the water you use is a neutral pH of 7).
Sadly, few plants survive such an emergency soil flush.The soil flush is, in essence, overwatering your plant to the point of removing most of the minerals and ingredients in the soil. If your plant manages to pull through, you have done well. If your plant doesn't then you'll know better next time. A soil flush causes the plant a great deal of shock* and should only be attempted as a last resort if your plant is dying and can't be cured by any other means. If your plant survives, it ma: have sustained some damage. If any of the leaves are burnt or look dead you cai remove them by clipping them away. These damaged plants usually take abou two weeks to return to full health.


end of excerpt

[kindprincess]

from marijuanahydro.com

ADVANCED INDOOR SOIL-BASED GROW ETHODS
NEW, ADVANCED WAYS OF IMPROVING YOUR CANNABIS plants' yield have emerged over the past several years and some methods have become quite popular. The three most common types of advanced indoor growing are SOG, ScrOG and cabinet growing. SOG and ScrOG are ways of growing serious numbers of cannabis top colas. Cabinet growing is a method of stealthily growing several plants in the corner of any room without drawing too much attention to your grow. Although these methods don't have to be soil-based (you can adapt a hydroponics setup to use these methods as well) soil is the most widely used medium in these setups, and so will be the focus of this chapter.

The idea behind these advanced indoor grow methods is that, in most cases, the cola is going to produce the most bud so why not try to get that part of the plant to grow really big by creating an environment that concentrates on the top part of the plant? After all, the bottom branches of indoor cannabis plants don't catch much of the light cast from your HIDs. Enter SOG, which stands for Sea of Green and the two other advanced indoor grow methods we will discuss in this chapter.

PREPARING THE SPECIAL CLONE MOTHER1
Before we discuss these popular advanced grow methods we will touch on cloning because this is an important part of advanced cultivation. Before you select that ^special' plant that you wish to replicate numerous times via cloning you must first of all grow out a test crop from seed. During the third and forth week of vegetative growth you take cuttings from all the test plants and label each one.

You must not flower any of these cuttings. If any of cuttings get too big to manage then reproduce them by taking further cuttings from each one and labeling them. Continue to grow the test plants and flower them by manipulating the pho-toperiod. At this point you can remove the males and the corresponding male clones because we are only looking for a special female. At the end of the test plants' flowering period you should be able to identify the 'special' mother plant that has done better than all the others. The corresponding cutting that was taken from this 'special' plant is then allowed to grow to its full size. The other cuttings are simply discarded because you will not be using them. In order to ensure that you find a good 'special clone mother' you should try and grow more than twenty plants. Good breeders will test grow as many as 100 or even 1000 plants to find a truly exceptional specimen.

The reason for taking the cuttings before flowering is so that you will not have a bunch of flowering cuttings, which need to be reverted to vegetative growth.* That would be too time-consuming.** If the clone has flowers on it then it can be flowered right away by manipulating the photoperiod. The result is much like a piece of bud on a small stick. Clones carry the same age as the parent plant they where taken from. Not only that but they are sexually mature enough to flower if taken from a flowering plant. If they only had a week to go before flowering then you will have to wait a week before you can flower them. You can flower two-inch clones if they were taken from a plant during the flowering cycle. They will finish when their flowering time is over but the quantity is reduced because the clone was not allowed to grow more node regions during vegetative growth. In short, clones are best if taken from the mother before flowering begins.
A cutting that is taken in the vegetative state allows the grower more control over the plant. That is why you should take lots of cuttings from different plants during the vegetative stage of growth and then later select the clone(s) that came from the 'special clone mother1. You might want to allow the 'special clone mother' to fully flower at the end of the test grow to confirm the plant's potency. The corresponding clone(s), on the other hand, will not have flowered yet because you will have kept the clone(s) in a constant state of vegetative growth under a 24-hour light cycle. It is your job, as the grower, to then take multiple cuttings and grow these multiple clones into a room full of highly potent,â?? special females'!

You should also keep at least one cutting from this original clone mother elsewhere and in the vegetative growth stage so that you can continue to take cuttings. This clone that is put aside becomes the new 'clone mother' and is the source for all our future clones of this special plant.

The disadvantages of selecting for that special clone is that it takes time to grow the test crop and you need two grow spaces to house your plants. Once you have finished harvesting, you must grow the special clone for three weeks before you take multiple cuttings from her. How many cuttings you take depends on how many clones you want to grow to full maturity next time around. Sometimes you might have to go another round in order to generate enough clones. Clones also share the exact same problems â?? be it pest resistance, nutrient requirements or genetic disorders. If a problem affects one clone then it will generally affect all the rest just as quickly. The advantage of using clones is that you can have a room full of identical copies of that special plant you really liked. You will not need to prune the plants to keep them in formation. It is possible to produce twice the harvest size of the test grow based on the selection of a clone that yielded more than others did.

For clarity we will list each process step by step.
1. Grow a large test crop.
2. Take cuttings from each plant and label everything.
3. Do not flower the cuttings.
4. Continue to grow the test crop.
5. Remove the males during flowering and their corresponding clones.
6. Select the best female at the end of flowering and her corresponding clone.
7. Grow the new clone mother but do not flower her.
8. Take multiple cuttings from the new clone mother when she has developed lots of branches. You can use pruning techniques to increase branch numbers.
9. Use these clones as your next source of genetics for your following grow.
10. Keep at least one clone aside and do not flower it. It will be. The next clone mother.
Growers like to sometimes swap or buy clones because it prevents them for having to grow a test crop and select a special female. Although this method is certainly less time-consuming it means that you will have to communicate with other growers and this is a security risk. Sometimes medical cannabis clubs offer clones for sale to medical users.
Although any of the advanced growing methods can be done from seed you will not get all the benefits unless you use clones.
SOG
A SOG setup can be any size but must maintain the same basic shape and follow certain SOG rules. In SOG grows you're looking at one plant per square foot or even one plant per 0.1 square feet. Very short Indica plants can be grown in as little space as 0.1 square feet. Most Indica varieties can be grown in less that 1.0 square feet but in general most growers end up using 0.5 square feet per plant. Pure Sativa strains generally do not need to go much more than 1.5 square feet in SOG. This should give you a good idea of how many clones you will need for your grow area.

Next, you need to select pots for the setup. SOG calls for tube-shaped pots or pots of greater depth than width. You can make these yourself or buy these pots in a store. The objective here is to pack as many pots full of plants as you can into the SOG grow area so that it becomes a big cluster of pots with clones. This is the basic rule of any SOG grow. Pack everything in as densely as you can. The clones are planted all at once, after which time no new plants are introduced into the SOG grow room. When they have reached the desired height (keep it small), they should be flowered. It usually takes about one to two weeks of vegetative growth before the clones are ready to be flowered.* Because the clones have been taken from a mother plant, they are effectively adult plants carrying the age of the mother plant with them and don't need to spend much time in the vegetative growth stage of the life cycle. Since you took them from a plant that was nearly flowering they'll start to flower shortly after you introduce the 12/12 light cycle.
The end result will be a full, dense canopy of bud, hence the name Sea Of Green. Because you're using clones, you only have to grow them for the remainder of their flowering times. You can expect to turn out a large quantity of bud every couple of months (a short period of vegetative growth with a full period of flowering).
SOG essentially uses clone plantlets to increase the rate of bud production in a growing operation. It is especially useful where grow height is a problem because the plantlets will never reach their optimal size. SOG plants are always much shorter than plants grown from seedlings and they are flowered as quickly as possible in the SOG environment. You can not do this with seedlings because young cannabis plants are not sexually mature enough to be flowered like this. In fact sexual orientation is not even genetically determined until the third of fourth week of vegetative growth. This same rule applies to feminized seeds that can become males under certain conditions.

SCROG
ScrOG is like a SOG grow except that fewer plants are used in conjunction with a screen to fill the grow area with heavy top colas â?? hence its name, ScrOG or Screen of Green.
The screen is simply a large wire mesh placed between your light and the plants. Again, clones from a female plant are used, but we allow at least one square foot per flowering plant in the ScrOG method. The plants aren't flowered until they have covered the entire mesh with green. As the plants grow up through the wire mesh they're trained and worked around the netting to form a very even canopy. The top colas and side branches are all trained under the screen.

There are many variations of the above two methods, yet they all utilize the same principles. SOGs and ScrOGs were originally developed to get the most out of poor quality fluorescent lights. The grower would line the roof of the shelf or box with fluorescent tubes to try and get the most out of their grow. Today's growers, using good HID bulbs, have taken these setups to a new level: pushing their buds to the limit. Some people even grow top colas that are the size of large corncobs or soda bottles!
ScrOG Growing by Real High
Real High is a ScrOG lover and has been growing ScrOG style for some years. He has added a bit to the ScrOG method through his experience with the process. This should help you understand more about the ScrOG method and what people have learned with this new technique.

My setup is like a SOG growing, but a screen is used to train the plant to grow horizontally, creating a canopy of buds beneath the light. The screen is simply made from chicken wire or nylon poultry fencing, or you can use hooks and 20 Ib. fishing line to make the net.
This picture shows a ScrOG variation. II
Is a small SerOG setup for a cabinet growing. Tins picture also contains a homemade octagonal vented hood for a 250-watl HPS light. Picture by foi.

The screen is installed at a fixed height above the plant medium. For Indica varieties the screen does not need to be much more than 8 inches above the pots. Indica Saliva hybrids need about 12 inches white Sativa plants tend to have longer internodes so you may have to use a screen that is about 18 inches above the pots. If your strain is a pure Sativa variety, like Haze or Thai, you may have to raise your screen to around 24 inches. This space allows the base of the plant a certain amount of vertical growth before branching occurs on the clone. The clone should start to branch just under the screen but if it does not do not worry because you are going to be training them anyway. The light should be suspended by adjustable chains so that it can be raised if necessary.

ScrOG growing doesn't require as many plants as SOG (allow at least one square foot per flowering plant), but takes anywhere from one to three weeks longer per grow because we will be in the vegetative growth stage longer than a SOG grow to allow the plants to fill out.

The plants are trained to grow horizontally under the screen until they're two weeks into the flowering cycle, at which point you let the tops grow vertically through the screen. You should always train the main growing tops from the outside of the screen moving inwards so that the colas are focused as closely as possible on the light dispersed from the bulb. You will not be able to get all of them centered under the light, but you should aim for this shape. As the tops grow vertically, push the large fan leaves down under the screen, allowing the light to get to all the developing bud sites.

If leaf growth is excessive, you can first cut fan leaves in half making a shorter leaf and allowing light to get to the bud site. Leaving half the leaf on the plant still allows it to make energy for the plant to grow. Taking a whole fan leaf away in one go can stunt growth. In about a week, you can take off the rest of the leaf. Some people don't remove the leaf at all, but I do it to help with air movement, reduce the chance of mold or fungus and to allow more light to penetrate the bud sites. Just remember to remove a little at a time if you do remove leaf mass.

At this point flowers are forming and growing vertically, creating a carpet of bud above the screen. Now we go below the screen and remove all the lateral branches and stray bud sites. The canopy has thickened enough that light is blocked from reaching this lower growth. It's only diverting your plants' energy away from the buds. You can remove all branches that haven't made it to the screen and the stray bud sites but you may experience stunting. Although you want the plant to concentrate all of itâ??s grow energy on the developing flowers above the canopy, removing too much leaf mass and branching can prevent additional flowering.

The three main differences between a SOG and ScrOG grow are the number of plants grown, the use of a screen and the slightly longer grow cycle of the ScrOG. Both methods can be done under the same light and in soil or with hydroponics. There are many variations of the ScrOG grow â?? including V-ScrOG, Stadium ScrOG, Flat ScrOG and Cylinder ScrOG â?? but they are all based on the same principles. They work essentially the same way but use different shapes.

One of the best strains available for your ScrOG garden is C99. You will find that a pure Indica or Indica dominant cross will produce the best in a ScrOG grow. A good ScrOG grow will average two ounces of bud per square foot of screen, but you can't expect this the first few grows, because it takes proper timing and the correct strain to accomplish this.

ScrOG was originally designed for grow areas limited in height and lit by fluo-rescents. Today's growers are using HID lights for growing ScrOG. They've taken it to the next level with these lights and are generating far greater results. Today's grower is always trying something new to improve the production of their favorite plant.
So there we have Real High explaining how he has worked with the ScrOG system. As you can see, he's added more to the basic ScrOG grow. With experience, practice and experimentation, you too can create your own customized grow.

++ Some Notes on SOG and ScrOG Growing
Even though M H and H PS lights can be used in conjunction with ScrOG and SOG grows, most ScrOG and SOG growers will use HPS because of the short vegetative period before flowering. Sometimes growers use smaller wattage HPS lights like the 250W and 400W series to keep the cost of electricity down and bud production within an acceptable range. In fact, ScrOG grows are so dense that smaller lights are sometimes more cost-effective than lights in the 600 to 1000W range, but again this depends on your strain and level of experience. If you get it right you can effectively direct 95% of available light onto your bud. The end result is like a canopy of pure bud with the light belting down on top of it all for 12 hours a day.

Some ScrOG growers like to tie the center of the screen down to avoid it being pushed up by the center of the bud production, which should be the most vigorous since it is directly under the light. If the plants were to push the screen up it would affect the overall results because the light would not be able to reach all the bud areas. The pushing effect could also cause stems and branches to break.

You should not leave your plants growing in vegetative growth for too long because this causes more leaf matter to develop than bud which will make our SOG or ScrOG grow less effective. Also watch out that you do not crush or pinch the stems as this will cause branches to develop at those areas or close to them. Branch development means that plant energy is being used in leaf and branch promotion rather than bud production.

You can experiment with different shapes of ScrOG to see how it affects your overall yield. Some ScrOG growers even advocate a dome shaped screen to match the curvature of light dispersal patterns â?? however it must also be said that the differences between shapes in the final yields is not always significant and the overall effect is more exciting looking than anything else.

CABINET GROWING
Although cabinet growing is not truly an advanced method of cannabis cultivation it certainly is a very popular one because of its ease of use, containment, stealth and harvest results. A cabinet can be anything from a small closet, an old refrigerator, a box or a simple cupboard. The grow area is usually small and can accommodate one to twelve plants at a time. The idea behind a cabinet grow is to keep a cycle of plants growing at all times. There are three things a cabinet grower needs to get started. They are:
1. Cabinet
2. Lighting
3. Air vent with fan
Most people simply set up their lights so they are adjustable by using versatile chains or a spring-type cord. A large hole is made in the cabinet to allow air to enter while another hole is made to allow air to escape. A fan is placed in one of the holes to extract the hot air being generated by the heat from the bulb. This vent and fan would be near the top of the cabinet close to the light. Hot air rises and should be extracted from the top of the cabinet. The intake hole is on the opposite side of the grow area and can have a fan inside. This fan is generally moving quicker than the extractor fan to allow a fresh supply of air to circulate before leaving the grow room.

Your cabinet can be air-cooled in a few ways. The most common way is to mount a 4-inch dryer flange on the hood and link from the hood flange to the exhaust fan flange with a 4-inch dryer hose. A fan can be mounted on the hood also.

The walls are painted flat white or Mylar is hung for reflective purposes. The plants are usually placed in separate pots and spend their entire life cycle within the cabinet environment. Clones are taken and placed on a shelf in the cabinet. Some people have made small compartments in their cabinets for clones and germination. Such a compartment can be any size, but is usually kept small enough to just keep the clones alive. This small compartment will probably have one or two fluorescent lights for the clones. It would be best to keep the compartment at the top of the grow chamber near the exhaust fan. You don't need an intake fan for these clones unless it is a big setup. A simple hole in the side will allow the plants to breathe.

After harvest, the clones are put into the grow cabinet and the process is repeated in a perpetual grow cycle; the legal term is a marijuana factory. In this kind of setup, you can harvest bud every 30 days with the right strains.

end of excerpt

[kindprincess]

from marijuanahydro.com

THE GREAT DIVIDE: INDOORS OR OUTDOORS?

WE NOW COME TO THE CORE DIVIDE in growing marijuana. At this stage you should know something about the history of cannabis, how it is smoked, various species, the high, seeds, the life cycle of the plant, propagation, germination and transplanting. With the exception of transplanting, all these things are generally pre-production methods. Now, you are ready to start growing: you're about to take your seedling and put it into your main grow area. This means that for the next three to nine months your plant is going to be located in a certain environment. That environment will be either indoors or outdoors. So let us talk about each environment in brief for a moment and also discuss the important issue of security before moving on to a more detailed description of indoor and outdoor grow spaces, environmental control and basic and advanced growing techniques in the chapters that follow.
GARDENING TOOLS
Here is a list of the basic items used to grow cannabis plants, both indoors and out.
Light source
Water source and delivery system
Nutrients
Fertilizers
Soil/medium
Propagation trays
Rockwool cubes (Oasis cubes or Jiffy cubes are just as good)
Pots
Scissors and/or a sharp knife

â?¢ Small shovel or trowel
â?¢ Pest control
â?¢ Support sticks
â?¢ Thread

As we advance to the latter sections of this book we'll see that growers can equip themselves with many more items to help them on their quest for bigger buds. The above list of tools represents the basics.

PLANNING FOR INDOOR GROWING
Next to choosing your strain, lighting is the most important factor that you must consider when growing indoors. The first thing you should know is that indoor lights produce bigger flowers (more bud) than natural light coming in the window (the process of utilizing natural light indoors is often called a window grow).This means you get more THC quantity with artificial lights than you will with natural sunlight indoors. Even in countries that have relatively hot sun for six months of the year it is still hard to produce big buds indoors under natural light. Some people have grown plants under an attic window that's open during the dry days. This will grow you bud but not as much as an artificial lighting system will produce. The other side of the coin is that natural light is free, electricity is not and grow lights can be expensive to buy and run.

When using a window grows try to place your plant near a window that receives the most sunlight throughout the day and the seasons. If you plan on a window grow, remember that you want your plant to get most of its light during flowering. If July is the best month for sunlight then you may consider germinating your seedling back in April or May or even as early as early March. Try to estimate when you'll get the best weather and coordinate this with the flowering times directed by the breeder.

Also remember that people might be able to look up and see your plant if it is growing near the window. People washing your windows can also see in. Also, if you have a Sativa plant it will get big and very conspicuous. Take all these factors into consideration when you are growing your plants with natural sunlight indoors but keep in mind that even low wattage indoor grow lights will improve your yields tenfold to a window grow. Window growing can result in a vain attempt to grow bud and is one of the top reasons why first time cannabis growers discontinue growing cannabis. A window grow by no means reflects the cannabis plantsâ?? true potential.

If you are growing indoors then you may have a room or part of a room that you wish to use, such as an attic, closet, basement or spare bathroom. These locations nearly always require artificial light. There are many ways to set up an indoor grow room.

OUTDOOR GROWING
Throughout the discussion that follows, we define outdoor growing as growing on your own property and guerrilla farming as growing away from your property, either in public areas or on someone else's property.

Your grow patch, whether on your own property or public property, must be pre-treated and tended to regularly. Leaving seeds in the soil and coming back four months later is generally not going to get you good results. Two main things must be done to the patch to begin the grow â?? weeding and digging.

Planning for Outdoor Growing and Guerrilla Farming the biggest problem with outdoor growing is keeping your grow area secure and private. Some people will rip off your plants in a second if they see what you have. Others will just create trouble for you. The risks are high and security is vital. I once heard about a small community that lived near a forest and grew titer marijuana near a stream. They eventually had to stop growing as their plants where being ripped off by the locals from the town nearby. And the thieves weren't just teenagers either. Adults will do this too. Some rippers are even professionals, using other people's grow as their main supply.

Perhaps the most affordable, low-key and best way to conceal an outdoor garden is to grow your cannabis plants among other plants that will mask the cannabis. If you have the advantage of living out-of-town and have a garden in which this kind of stuff can be constructed, you could also grow plants inside a brick cubicle with sheets of glass on top. This is much like a very small greenhouse without the glass sides and can be camouflaged to look like a small shed. The problem with enclosed outdoor grows like this is that light only really gets to the canopy of the plants and very little bud is produced under this canopy. The advantage is that this setup does not look like a greenhouse or anything that is housing plants. If you want to use a greenhouse instead, then it is suggested that you paint the sides of the greenhouse white to prevent anyone from looking in. The white will also help reflect the sunlight that enters in above through the glass around the grow area promoting growth on lower leaves and bud areas.

Whatever method you choose: Hide your crop well. Not everyone can easily spot marijuana, but someone who is trained to watch out for the plant will know it right away for what it is.

Guerrilla Farming
Guerrilla growing is hard work and often prone to rip-offs. By planting in a forest or in someone else's field or property, you are not in any danger of being caught with the plants on your property. However, the person's property you plant on is put at risk. Be a nice grower and do not plant on someone else's private property. It is not nice and reflects badly on the cannabis-growing community. Find a public area, such as a forest or a hill slope. Look for an area that is away from the public eye, but will receive plenty of light. There are lots of places for this sort of thing, but you will have to spend time finding the right spot. Finding a good patch is the key to successful guerrilla growing. A patch near a river is ideal because it offers ready access to water and can help your crop survive a short draught.

Most guerrilla farmers prefer to keep it simple and favor the following method. They start their seedlings in small plastic pots indoors. When the seedlings have developed, and the plants are ready to enter the vegetative growth stage of the life cycle, the grower cuts the bottoms of the pots away and tapes a small piece of cardboard to the bottom of each pot. The plants, in their pots, are then taken to the grow patch where the grower digs holes in the ground, removes the cardboard and places the pots and plants in the earth. Then the holes are filled in with soil. This way the grower has germinated the plants and only needs to worry about secondary factors such as light, security and pests. The roots will find their way out of the bottom of the pots and into the soil below. Don't worry about the roots not finding a way out of the pot. They always do, that's their job.

SECURITY
The Most Important Advice Ever About Growing Cannabis
What I am going to tell you is the most important thing you will ever learn about growing marijuana. It is a simple rule, but can be difficult to actually commit to.
Never Tell A Soul that You Are Growing Cannabis!

If you do this then you greatly reduce the risk of detection, other than someone accidentally stumbling into your grow area. Never tell anyone anything. This rule has helped some growers live their whole lives cultivating cannabis without ever having an encounter with the law.

Loose lips cause 99.9 percent of all security-related issues. The remaining 0.1 percent of security breaches is due to poor preparation and growers neglecting to take the time to conceal the area well enough. If you intend to share your crop with friends do it by another means. The only people who should ever know that you grow are the people who live with you and even then, only if it is absolutely necessary.

Security is always an issue whether you are an outdoor or indoor grower. We have learned that to secure your grow area you must prepare yourself for any future eventuality. Pre-production security arrangements are very important. A sudden peak in your electricity bill may attract unwanted attention from certain authorities that look for these things. This may seem odd to you, but it does occur.

It is now common practice in most countries that support cannabis prohibition to set up special task forces to track down growers. The most frequently used technique is tracking purchasing orders. Many agencies keep tabs on grow shops and the items being sold to customers. Tracking requires special court orders, but law enforcement agencies can obtain these with ease. If someone has been identified as buying suspicious grow products, the agency will also try to find out what other items have been bought using the same credit card or other accounts. Many growers have been caught this way. The best way to avoid this trap is to always pay with cash.

Seed banks are also sometimes tracked by agencies that watch for incoming mail with certain stamps and envelope headers. Sometimes it isn't the agency that does the tracking but people in the post office. To get around this, most seed banks don't head their mail anymore. If your seed bank does, it is best to keep away from that seed bank in the future.
If you have done the right thing then you should have all your growing tools and kits bought using cash and your seeds purchased from a seed bank that offers good seeds and a safe, secure way of sending you their product. Many seed banks use great stealth to get you your seeds. It is advised that you never have seeds sent directly to your grow area.

Indoor Security
When growing indoors try to consider certain short-term security factors, like visits from service people. Some growers have a grow room that can be swept clean in under a minute. They have a closet nearby where they can quickly move their plants if visitors do drop by.

Always keep your security closet near your grow area. It's no good walking around your house with five or more plants in your arms. It's a bad idea to use a bathroom as a backup security area unless you have another one that guests can use.

Another thing you must consider with indoor security is odor. Now Super Skunk and Skunk#l are very smelly plants, especially during flowering, hence the name Skunk. If you live in an apartment complex there's no way you'll be able to hide the smell unless you have some form of extraction fan or an ozone generator.

In some indoor setups fans can be used to extract unwanted smells away from corridors and high-traffic areas. Air can be pumped through a window or filter to another area where the smell will not be noticed. Not only that, but plants love fresh air and wind, so the fan can do two things at once for you. An ozone generator is devices that helps to get rid of cannabis odor problems and can be purchased from most grow shops.

Fire is another major security issue for growers. Some people growing indoors use second-rate lights and/or fixtures, creating a very real fire hazard. Never use any lighting kit or fixture that is either damaged or unsuitable for indoor use. Taking shortcuts with lighting and electricity is a big no-no â?? you could be risking your home, and everything and everyone in it. 1 have heard of and met people who have come home only to find the fire department outside just finishing putting out the fire that engulfed part of their house. The same thing happens in every case: The grower approaches and sees a number of police officers looking around the area. The fire officer points to the cause of the fire â?? a half-melted light fixture with burnt-out sockets. They all know what this is all about because they have seen it all before.

New marijuana growers nearly always make the mistake of creating inferior lighting setups. Needless to say this is because of three factors: they don't have the right information; they don't have the money to invest in a proper lighting system; or they just want to grow their pot quickly and cheaply.

Outdoor Security
As previously stated, the best way to secure your outdoor garden is by using a shelter. You must also remember that some outdoor plants do smell and this can carry over a short distance given the right wind conditions and climate. Most people won't know what the smell is but some will! Many growers get around this problem by growing cannabis plants that have very little smell during flowering. Ask about these strains when you contact your seed bank. They should be more than happy to recommend a less smelly strain for you. All cannabis plants smell to some degree, however, during flowering.
The other thing to make sure of is that you can harvest your crop as quickly and as privately as possible. Standing over a small shelter putting cuttings of cannabis into a big black bag is not exactly the most secure way to go about this. Some people go to their garden with black plastic bags and drop the bag over the plant before pulling it up. This way you won't expose your crop to anyone. Some people do their harvesting at night. This is not recommended though as it can draw unwanted attention to you and your setup. A flashlight rummaging around in the darkness is not very stealthy at all. Also during the day you have a clearer view of what is around you. It is much wiser to do your harvesting during the day unless for some reason there is less activity in your area at night.
If you are growing your plants outdoors without shelter and away from the general public then you may want to create a pen for your plants. A pen made from chicken wire will prevent any unwanted predators, such as deer or rodents, from eating your plants.

Guerrilla Growing Security
Tracks left behind from your ventures to and from your grow area are the worst giveaway for any guerrilla farmer. People just love to walk through the woods and say: Oh, looks a nice track, I wonder what's down there? Do not create a track when you go to your grow area. Even by visiting the same spot once every two weeks you will leave a trail, which hikers might see and use. Try to access your grow area through several different routes.

As a guerrilla grower you probably don't want to hack through 100 feet of brambles to access your grow site. When choosing a spot, look for an area that is neither too dense nor too sparse. Some guerrillas growers have even created small grow baskets that hang from trees away from the public eye. If the baskets are well camouflaged then you can get away with loads.

Hanging baskets are easy to make. You need a three-gallon wire hanging basket, a plastic garbage bag to fit inside the basket and some wire. Simply line the inside of the hanging basket with the garbage bag and lightly perforate the bottom of the bag to allow water to drain through. Fill the basket with soil and transplant your seedling to the basket. You can then suspend this basket high up on the branch of a tree. Hanging baskets need to be used in conjunction with slow release fertilizer types like granular foods. All the plant's nutrients should be stored in the soil throughout the plant's grow. Slow release feeding products do this. A popular brand of slow release food is xFish, blood and bone'. Slow release foods are not as controllable as normal feeding products because the nutrient break down in the soil occurs over weeks and months in different quantities, but the foods permit the grower to feed the hanging plants less often. Although hanging baskets are a stealthy way to grow they can be hard to access and maintain. Watering is also a consideration that must be taken into account. It is advised that if you try growing cannabis in hanging baskets that you have a little experience with growing cannabis beforehand.

As a guerrilla grower you should always wear gloves when handling your grow and tools. If you have buckets nearby don't leave fingerprints on any of these. Also, you will want to consider having a good excuse for being in your grow area. Imagine that you're walking back from your path with nothing incriminating on you and someone jumps out and asks what you are doing here? Of course, you know that there's a river nearby so you show your fishing rod or your binoculars and bird-spotting book. There are many things you can take with you to make you look like somebody other than a cannabis grower. I have heard cases of grow sites being staked out by people you would definitely not like to meet. Always check the area around your grow site for suspicious-looking people.
The worst security time for any guerrilla grower is during the harvest. This is when you must go from your grow area to your home or another location with your growing rewards. Always do this in the morning, as early as possible. Double-check the area for any suspicious-looking people. Pack your buds and plants into bags (brown paper bags are better or alternatively, use black plastic bags) and then put these into a backpack. Before you approach your vehicle, drop your bag against a bush and cover it up. Walk toward your vehicle and look around again. You may even want to drive for about five minutes and look out for anything suspicious or anyone who might be following. Remember, you can always leave the bag and go to a nearby town (not home â?? leave that until the situation is well under control again). If things look okay, you can drive back to where you left your bag, pick it up, stow it out of sight (the trunk for example) and drive home carefully.

Some people can get away with guerrilla farming lots of pot. This is commercial growing on a risky scale but still occurs in various parts of the world where cannabis is banned. The growers usually live deep in the forest miles away from the nearest town. They may spend up to seven months on their own, cultivating the crop. Recent grow busts by the police have identified several tons of bud being grown by as few as three people living in a remote region of British Colombia.

There isn't much more to guerrilla growing than this. Most of the elements that you need to complete your outdoor and guerrilla grow site are in the indoor growing chapters of this book. Read through this and it should give you ideas about how to treat your outdoor grow patch.

Guerrilla growing is so popular in some places around the world that it has become competitive and dangerous. Remember that not all growers are nice people. Some of them don't even smoke cannabis and just want to make money. Check your local news media for information relating to seizures of Guerrilla grows and if those arrested were armed. This is huge problem associated with cannabis prohibition.


end of excerpt

[kindprincess]

from marijuanahydro.com

PROPAGATION AND GERMINATION

WHAT IS PROPAGATION?
Propagation: 1) The action of breeding or multiplying by natural processes: procreation, generation, reproduction. 2) The action of spreading an idea, practice, etc., from place to place. 3) Increase in amount or extent; enlargement; extension in space or time.
Propagation is The Grow, however some growers treat propagation only as the events that occur between the planting of the seed and the transplanting of the seedling to the main grow environment. We will correctly treat propagation as the entire process of growing from seed to harvest, including the logistics of the grow: in short, propagation represents the events that occur over the entire life cycle of the plant. This Chapter focuses on the first stage, germination, but first we'll discuss propagation logistics. You will hear the term propagation used to describe elements of the grow that may be seen as one-time actions like seed towel propagation, but we ask you to bear in mind that propagation is the continuous growing process.

Propagation Logistics
So, what are you going to do? Are you going to buy a batch of 10 seeds and grow them all in one go? Are you going to then kill the males and just use the females? Are you going to keep the males and produce more seeds from the females? How many seeds can a female plant produce? What can you do to guarantee that all your seeds will grow? This is where propagation logistics come into play. The answers to these questions depend largely on the size of your grow area and your budget.

Let's say you have about $200 to spend on seeds. You can buy an expensive strain, like a G13 cross, grow the G13 and produce more seeds from it. You could get between 100 and 2000 seeds depending on plant size and grow conditions. If you produce lots of seeds this season, you may never need to buy seeds for this strain again.
There is something else you can do to prevent the need to ever buy or grow from seeds again, called cloning. Cloning is a technique whereby you grow a number of plants and select a quality female. You then take cuttings from that female plant and grow these cuttings into new plants. Clones always retain the same sex and vigor as the mother plant, so it is possible to create a garden of plants through cloning that will last for decades from a single mother plant. Cloning is described in detail in Chapter 11.

For the new grower it is advised that you buy 10 seeds and only germinate three the first time, followed by another three and then the last four.This will allow you some degree of experimentation as you may fail on your first attempt to germinate the seeds.

For people who have germinated seeds in the past, it is advised that you germinate five followed by another five the next week. Only if you are a long-time grower with a good amount of growing experience should you germinate all the seeds at once. In this way, you can reduce the risk of failing some, or all, of your seeds because of bad germination methods.
During your plants' growth you may decide to pollinate only a few of your females. You will need two grow areas to do this: one for growing all your female plants; and another for growing one or more females mixed in with males. As stated before, this depends on the size of your grow space and your budget. It is important that your pollination room be kept well away from your all-female grow room because pollen can travel by air. Bees and other insects can spread pollen, and so can you. Always wash your hands and face after handling a male plant to prevent pollen from a male plant getting onto a female that you wish to keep for sinsemilla.

So, now you nave 10 seeds and your goal is to achieve 100 percent germination results. The following section on germination will help you achieve an optimal success rate.

GERMINAT/ON TECHNIQUES
Seeds can be germinated a number of ways. Some guarantee more success than others. It is recommended that you consider the rockwool SBS (single block system) propagation tray method.

Seed Soil Propagation
In this method, seeds are placed in moist soil about 3 mm, or the length of the seed, from the surface. The soil is kept moist (not soaking wet), by sprinkling water over it once a day. This has a moderate success rate: out of 10 seeds you can expect 7 to 8 to germinate.

Germination Soil
There are many soils advertised as germination soils.* They are basically the same as other soils except that they contain special blends of micronutrients and are kept somewhat clean (the soil is sifted and no compost is added!. Ordinary loam soil with apHof? and an NPK** of higher or equal amounts of N than P or K is good for starting seeds. Even ratios of NPK of 5:1:1 or 8:4:1 are good. Just make sure that the N is equal to or higher than each of the P and K factors on the label.

Seed Towel Propagation
Seeds are placed either on a damp towel or on damp cotton balls (cheesecloth may also be used). Cover the seeds with more damp cotton balls or a damp towel.

So, now you have 10 seeds and your goal is to achieve 100 percent germination results. The following section on germination will help you achieve an optimal success rate.

GERMINATION TECHNIQUES
Seeds can be germinated a number of ways. Some guarantee more success than others. It is recommended that you consider the rockwool SBS (single block system) propagation tray method.

Seed Soil Propagation
In this method, seeds are placed in moist soil about 3 mm, or the length of the seed, from the surface. The soil is kept moist (not soaking wet), by sprinkling water over it once a day. This has a moderate success rate: out of 10 seeds you can expect 7 to 8 to germinate.

Germination Soil
There are many soils advertised as germination soils.* They are basically the same as other soils except that they contain special blends of micronutrients and are kept somewhat clean (the soil is sifted and no compost is added). Ordinary loam soil with a pH of 7 and an NPK** of higher or equal amounts of N than P or K is good for starting seeds. Even ratios of NPK of 5:1:1 or 8:4:4 are good. Just make sure that the N is equal to or higher than each of the P and K factors on the label.
Seed Towel Propagation
Seeds are placed either on a damp towel or on damp cotton balls (cheesecloth
may also be used). Cover the seeds with more damp cotton balls or a damp towel.

If the material dries out it may damage the seeds, so keep it moist at all times. Every day, check to see if the seeds have started to produce roots. If they have, immediately transfer the seedlings to a grow medium, such as soil, using a pair of tweezers. Do not touch the roots as this can kill your seedlings. This method has a moderate-to-high success rate. Out of 10 seeds 8 to 9 may germinate. The problem with this method is that sometimes the transplant can cause the seedling to go into shock. This can terminate the germination process, leaving you with nothing. With practice you can get all your seeds to germinate using this method.

Propagation Kits
Seeds are germinated in small units inside a seed or clone propagator: a tray of sorts, designed to help plants germinate. One such kit is called a rockwool SBS propagation tray.* At the bottom of the tray is a small area where water or germination hormone can be poured. Small grow cubes called rockwool cubes are placed into slots in the tray, which automatically dips the rockwool into the solution. The seeds are placed into tiny holes in the cubes (the holes are filled with rockwool particles to prevent the seeds from being directly exposed to air in the environment) and the cover is replaced. Some propagation kits are even heated and look like miniature greenhouses.

This method has a very high success rate, however a disadvantage is the cost of the tray, rockwool and grow fertilizers. You should note that, although some seedling fertilizers contain growth hormones mixed into the nutrients in order to promote plant growth, it Is recommended that you not use fertilizers or growth hormones with your seeds unless you have experience. Even the slightest amount of overfeeding can kill your seeds or bum your seedlings. In fact, you are better off just using water in your propagation kit to germinate your seeds. I have yet to find a cannabis strain that needed growth hormones or fertilizer to germinate properly. The price of the tray is about $10, the rockwool cubes J5, the grow fertilizers $5. If you have spent upwards of $50 on good seeds, why not spend the extra $20 on getting a small kit like this together and increase your chances of achieving a 100 percent success rate? The kits offer the added advantage of serving two purposes: they can also be used to root your clones.

Scuffing Seeds
Most seeds that fail to germinate do so because their shells, the testa, are too hard to break open and allow water to seep in. At the end of your germination period you may have found that some seeds have not managed to break open. You can help these seeds to grow by using a method known as scuffing.
Simply get a small box, like a matchbox and line the inside of the box with sandpaper. Place the seeds into the box, close and shake the box for a few minutes. Now that the seeds have been scuffed, their outer shells should break open more easily and they should germinate.

Dangers when Germinating Seeds
During germination and transplantation, your plants are at their most vulnerable. Here are some tips to help you protect your future crop during germination.
Drafts are a killer and can stunt germination. Always make sure you keep your germinating seeds away from any open windows or fans. Also ensure that the room is warm. A cold room can inhibit your germination rates.*
Take care when using germination fertilizers or hormones to ensure that your mixture is correct. Do not use high doses of fertilizers with seedlings. Water is all seedlings really need. You do not need to add anything. Some people use germination solutions, but these solution strengths should be low. An incorrect mixture can burn your seedlings and cause them to fail.
Leave your seeds alone to grow.** You may be tempted to check on your seedlings and could run the risk of disturbing the soil.This is a bad move as too much tampering and shifting of the seeds can break and damage the young roots.
Some strains produce seedlings with weaker stems than others. In these cases, the seedlings may tend to lean to the left or right. If you find that your seedlings need support then use a small stick to brace your seedling. Tie the stem to the stick using a piece of thread. Never tie the thread above a growing shoot or the seedling will push up against the thread and may rip itself. You may continue to use a stick to support your plant as it grows. Never bring a stick from outdoors indoors as some bugs, such as spider mites, can go undetected in their incubation nests inside the wood. If your plant still has a weak stem during vegetative growth it is recommended that you give the base of the stem a gentle shake every morning and evening. This will help the plant to develop a more solid stem. Outdoors the wind shakes a plant and causes it to develop this solid stem. You can simulate the effect of the wind by doing this mildly every morning for two or three seconds. Indoor fans also help and are described in Chapter 6.
Seeds must be viable if they are going to germinate. Never use white seeds. They are immature. Find seeds that have white and gray markings or another color apart from white. Crushed seeds will not germinate. Old seeds may have trouble germinating. Always try to use the best seeds you can find.

TRANSPLANTING SEEDLINGS
During the stages between germination and vegetative growth the grower may find that plants outgrow their pots. Transplanting to bigger pots should be done as early as possible.

Here is an example. When your seedlings are ready, simply lift them from the propagation tray along with the rockwool cube, and place the cube and seedling into a bigger container full of another grow medium, such as soil or a hydropon-ic setup (more about hydroponics can be found in Chapter 9).There is not much of a problem when transferring a cube and seedling to soil. Just dig a small hole in the soil for the cube and place it in. Then cover the cube with soil. The cube will not affect your plant's growth and will provide additional support as it grows into its larger container.

Even if you have started your seedlings in soil, transferring them to bigger pots need not be a complicated process.The problem you'll encounter is that, in order to move the soil and roots from one pot to another, the plant must be lifted out gently, with the soil in place. The most important objective of any transplant is to keep the roots intact while avoiding as much material spillage as possible. How is this done? There are three basic ways:
The first way is to simply cut away the base of the smaller pot and place it inside the bigger pot of soil.The roots will grow down through the hole in the bottom of the smaller pot and into the larger one.
The second way involves making sure that the soil is very dry. Delay watering your plant for a couple of days and let the soil settle until hard. Then you can use a clean knife to cut around the inside edge of the pot. Cut deep, but not so deeply that you risk damaging the roots. Then push your fingers down into the sides and lift the plant and soil out. Some soil will break away but this shouldn't affect your plant. Quickly place the plant into the larger pot and cover with soil. Give your plant some water so that it will take to the new soil. Although you can lift some plants out of their pots by pulling on the stem, this can cause problems down the line. You should always maintain a firm grip on the soil when transplanting.
If your soil is very compact, you may be able to turn the pot upside down and gently tap the whole medium out as one solid mass. This transplanting method â?? turning the pot upside down and tapping it out â?? is a very professional way of transplanting but you should try it out first on a plain pot of dry soil. A bit of practice will pay off in the long run. Simply move your hand to cover as much of the top of the pot as possible.The stem should be resting at the base between your fingers. Lift the pot and plant up with the other hand. Turn the plant upside down and use your free hand to pull the pot away from around the soil. You can also use the remains of an indoor harvest (if the cut stem is still in the soil in the pot) to practice this.

Transplant Shock
During some transplants the cannabis plant may go into shock, even if your transplant was done cleanly and quickly. If your plant is otherwise healthy, it should survive. If the plant hasn't been looked after it may fail quickly. Transplant shock results in delayed or slowed growth and is caused by damage to or a disturbance of the roots. This is why you must always make sure to keep a firm hold of the soil during transplants. Also refrain from feeding plants suffering from transplant shock for one week if you can. The reason for not feeding the plant is because shocked plants can not use fresh nutrients properly. The plant's poor health, coupled with its inability to uptake and use the fresh nutrients, usually results in plant burn, which can be fatal to a shocked plant.
Some growers like to clean down their roots before transplanting. Although this can be done with some plants â?? cannabis does not like it unless the root mass is small and undemanding. Cleaning cannabis roots is not needed but should you wish to attempt it then it is best to do it between the first and second weeks of vegetative growth. Root size and complexity is very strain dependent. Since cannabis mostly produces a complex root system, it is nearly impossible to avoid some root damage when cleaning the roots and in most cases where root damage has occurred, plant growth will be stunted. If the damage is severe, the plant could die.
There are some transplant feeding products available. One popular brand of growth hormone called Superthrive is used extensively by cannabis growers to help the plant through the transplant process and recovery from shock. Superthrive contains the vitamin Bl better know as the hormone Wiamine' â?? a proven root and growth hormone.

end of excerpt

[kindprincess]

from marijuanahydro.com

F YOU WANT TO CONTINUE GROWIMG A STRAIN that you enjoy, cloning is your best option. You could also continue the strain by breeding two plants to produce seeds. You won't completely replicate the strain again using the seed method, however, unless the two parent plants are from the same IBL (inbred line). Even if the two plants are not IBLs, they should produce seeds that contain most of the parents' features. If you want to create a plant with characteristics from two different strains, breeding the marijuana from seed is your only option. That is the subject of this chapter, which begins with an introduction to simple breeding procedures and then goes on to cover advanced techniques like breeding a true strain and backcrossing.

Making Marijuana Seeds
How easy is it to make seeds? It's easy if you have healthy plants and a stable growing environment. When your male plants burst their pollen sacks in your grow room they'll pollinate the female flowers. You can also administer pollen directly to your females if you prefer.

Collecting and Storing Pollen
Pollen can be extracted from male flowers as soon as they open: you'll see the male flower open out from its calyx. It is best to gather pollen after it falls from the pod onto the leaves. You can shake the pollen onto the female flowers to pollinate them or grow your males separately and store their pollen for future use.
Film canisters are great for storing pollen. You can save pollen in a canister for the next harvest. Although it can be stored in the freezer for as long as months, pollen is best used within six months of collection. Pollen has been known to keep for longer than 18 months, but is usually not viable past this time.
Collecting and Storing Seeds

If you have pollinated your plants, at the end of the flowering stage the bud will contain seeds.The seeds should be gray, tan or dark brown in color.They may also be striped, banded or lined with different colored markings. If they are pale cream or white in color, then they are probably not viable and you have harvested them too early. You should wait until the end of flowering to harvest your seeds.

Your seeds will be mixed in with the bud and it can take quite a bit of time to separate them from their sticky calyx pods. Do not squeeze the calyx directly because you can damage the seed inside. Just tease the seed out from the calyx with your fingers. If you do not want the bud you can brush a seeded flowering branch against some fabric or a sieve to release the seeds from their respective calyx pods. It is easier to remove seeds from dry, cured bud than from freshly harvested plants.

If you plan to use the seeds in more than two years time, store them in an airtight container and place this in a freezer. If you plan to use the seeds within the next two years, storing them in a standard film canister or similar container will work well. Keep this canister away from heat and direct light and do not let it get damp or your risk spoiling your seeds. Containers placed in the freezer should not be opened until you are ready to use them. Allow the seeds to thaw at room temperature for at least 12 hours before use.

end of excerpt

[kindprincess]

from marijuanahydro.com

ADVANCED BREEDING TECHNIQUES
Simple Backcrossing
Our first cross between the Master Kush plant and the Silver Haze is known as the Fl hybrid cross. Let's pretend that both traits are homozygous for leaf color: the Silver Haze is pale green and the Master Kush is dark green. Which is SS or ss? We won't know until we see the offspring.
Fl Hybrid Cross s

This Fl cross will result in hybrid seeds. Since S is dominant over s, we'll know which color is more dominant and from which parent it came from. In this example, the overall results are pale green.Thus, the pale green allele is dominant over the dark green.
S = Silver Haze pale green leaf trait is dominant s = Master Kush dark green leaf trait is recessive
We also know that because no variations occurred in the population that both parents were homozygous for that trait. However, all the offspring are heterozygous. Here is where we can take a shortcut in manipulating the gene pool for that population. By cloning the parent plant SS, we can use this clone in our cross with the Ss offspring. This is known as a backcross. Obviously, if our parent is female then we'll have to use males from the Ss selection in our backcross, and vice versa.
F2 Backcross
S
s

S
SS
Ss

S
SS
Ss

Now our first backcross will result in 50 percent homozygous (SS) offspring and 50 percent heterozygous offspring (Ss) for that trait. Here all the offspring will exhibit the pale green leaf trait. If we didn't backcross but just used the heterozygous offspring for the breeding program we would have ended up with 25

percent homozygous dominant (SS), 50 percent heterozygous (Ss) and 25 percent homozygous recessive (ss), as shown below.
F2 Hybrid
Cross (without backcrossing)
S
s

S
SS
Ss

s
Ss
ss

Backcrossing seriously helps to control the frequencies of a specific trait in the offspring. The F2 Hybrid Cross produced some plants with the dark green leaf trait. The F2 Backcross did not.

The F2 backcross is an example of simple backcrossing. Let's see what happens when we do our second backcross (F3) using the same original parent kept alive through cloning. Our second backcross is referred to as squaring. Since we're dealing with only two types of offspring Ss and SS, we'll either repeat the results of the F2 backcross...
F3 Backcross with heterozygote

In the F3 Backcross with the homozygote, all of the offspring are homozygous dominant (SS) and thus true breeding for that trait.These offspring are the result of squaring and can never produce the ss traits because the SS trait is now true breeding and stable. The F3 Backcross with the heterozygote has some Ss offspring. If we breed the Ss and Ss offspring we can produce the ss trait. This line would not be stable.

How to Generate a Clone Mother
The best way to generate a clone mother is to grow a large population of plants from the same strain. If the strain is an IBL then you should find that the plants do not exhibit much variation. It can be difficult to find a clone mother from an IBL strain, though, because IBLs are created to provide a population of plants from seed from the F3 Backcross with the homozygote, which all resemble the clone mother that the breeder enjoyed and wanted to share with you.

The best way to generate a clone mother is to select her from a large population of Fl hybrids. If you do not find a clone mother in the Fl population then allow random mating to occur and see if you can generate a good clone mother in the F2 population. If you do not find the clone mother in the F2 population then either grow a larger population or select different parents to create a new Fl population.

A clone mother is only as good as the environment she is grown in. The environment influences how the genotype is displayed in the phenotype.* Although indoor plants can grow outdoors and outdoor plants can grow indoors, the expressed phenotype of the genotype may change because of the diversity in growing conditions. This is why breeders urge that you grow their strains in the recommended environment.

Seifing
Selfing is the ability of a plant to produce seeds without the aid of another plant and refers to hermaphrodite plants that are able to self-pollinate. Hermaphrodite plants have both male and female flowers.This usually means that the hermaphrodite plant is monoecious. Most plants are dioecious and have male and female flowers on separate plants.

Monoecious cannabis strains will always display both sexes regardless of the growing conditions. Under optimal growing conditions a monoecious cannabis strain will still produce both male and female flowers on the same plant. Under optimal growing conditions a dioecious cannabis strain will produce male and female flowers on separate plants.

Stressful growing conditions can cause some dioecious cannabis strains to produce both male and female flowers on the same plant. Manipulating an irregular photoperiod during the flowering stage is an easy way to encourage the dioecious hermaphrodite condition. Not all dioecious cannabis strains can become hermaphrodites. The dioecious cannabis strain must have a preexisting genetic disposition to become hermaphrodite under stressful conditions in order for male and female flowers to appear on the same plant.

If you find a dioecious cannabis strain that has the hermaphrodite condition you can separate this plant from the rest and allow selfing to occur. If the male pollen is viable on this plant then the hermaphrodite will produce seeds. Selfed plants that produce seeds will eventually generate offspring that:
1. Are all female
2. Are all hermaphrodite
3. Produce male, female and hermaphrodite plants because the environment also influences the final sexual expression of the selfed plant
4. Express limited variation from the original selfed plant
Breeders should note that it is nearly impossible for a hermaphrodite to create male plants although the environment can influence males to appear. Hermaphrodites usually create female-only and hermaphrodite seeds. The female-only seeds often carry the hermaphrodite trait. Selfing has become popular among those who wish to breed all-female or feminized seeds. Unfortunately feminized seeds do very little for the cannabis gene pool as the hermaphrodite condition prevents growers from generating a sinsemilla crop.

Well-informed breeders tend to shy away from producing feminized seeds. Feminized seeds should only be used for bud production and not for breeding. Generating seeds from feminized plants is only advised for personal use and not for distribution.
Notes on Selfing by Vie High
These notes were taken from an online interview. Notes provided by Vie High, BCGA breeder.

100% Female Seeds
POSTED BYTHESILICONMAGICIAN ON FEBRUARY 13, 1999 AT 05:17:41 PT As some of you may know I've been a regular in the chat room for a while and I spend a large amount of time in there. I have had the extreme pleasure of speaking to Mr. XX over the last few nights for many hours and have gotten to know him quite well via email and the chat. He has confided in me and in a few others about his process for coming up with 100 percent female seeds.

Mr. XX is a very nice guy, funny too and it's always a pleasure to speak with him. He doesn't speak English too well, but his wit comes through the rough language and he's a riot. He's a pure lover of cannabis and feels that everyone should share and share alike. He simply wants to share his knowledge with the cannabis community, and because he's spent 15 years researching this, I spoke about it with him in depth.

He has stressed literally hundreds of plants with irregular photoperiods. What he does is put the lights on 12/12 for 10 days. Then he turns the lights on 24 hours, then 12/12 again for a few days, then back to 24 hours for a day, then 12/12 again for a few weeks. If he does this and no hermaphrodites come up, he has found a 100% XX female that can't turn hermaphrodite naturally. He claims that your chances of finding a 100% XX female is vastly increased when using Indica genetics. He also informed me that the more Afghani or Nepalese genetics the plant has, the better the chances of finding a natural XX female. In his own words: "Where did nature give weed a home originally?" I tried to get him to narrow it down to a ratio, but he never specified just how many plants per are XX females. He claims there are plenty of XX females for everybody, and that's all he will say on the subject. It takes a lot of time and a lot of plants to find that one female.
He then uses gibberellic acid, mixing 30 centiliters of water with 0.02 grams of gibberellic acid and 2 drops of natruim hydroxide to liquefy the gibberellic. Then applies as normal and creates the male flowers. He has gotten down to the 4th generation without loss of vigor, and with no genetic deficiencies and hermaphrodites. He claims that the plants are exact genetic clones of one another, complete sisters. Basically it's cloned from seed instead of from normal cloning methods.

POSTED BY THESILICON MAGICIAN ON FEBRUARY 13, 1999 AT 05:17:41 PT
Mr. XX also says that it's easy for the home grower to find an XX female. It's a very time-consuming process but a straightforward one. He advises home growers to confine themselves to a single strain. Mr. XX used a Skunktfl x Haze x Hawaiian Indica. He says to separate those plants from your main grow and stress them severely. Do this repeatedly with every new crop of seeds you get of that strain until you find the XX female. While this is time consuming it is by no means impossible.