Latewood's Legacy: GH 3-part and CalMag tutorial and discussion

[latewood]

1st. although you got the explanation right. I use 8ml per gallon =1 unless otherwise specified. less in veg and a little more in flower.

I use well water 167ppm and add 1/4tsp superthrive per gallon to my well water. After rooting, or when placing seedlings in dwc. I use ro water, and liquid Karma ph 5.8. That way I acclimate the young plants to all the elements of nutrients...Within a week roots are crazy and proceed to
1-1-1=8ml-8ml-8ml of G-M-B of any companies 3-part.
We use General Hydroponics, which is what Advanced Nutrients copied for their 3-part.
So that way, you can buy GH without everybody being sure about what you grow.
make sure you have a way to keep ph consistantly around 5.8.
That, in it self is probably the most important aspect of steering clear of problems in the 1st place.

[BlazeIdo]

Latewood , How much Liquid Karma after initial clone rooting and for about how long? Interesting about how the LK acclimates clones for full nutes so early. explain please...:jointsmile: Also Just to get this straight, for the flower assuming 8 week finish time, it would be (week 1-4, 3-part .25-1-2, weekly alternating top- offs with LK and calmag+) (week 5, 3-part 0-1-2,weekly alternating top- offs with LK and calmag+) (week 6-7, 3-part 0-1-2, Overdrive, Plain RO topoffs) (week 8 flush). If Overdrive is not used should the Top offs with LK and Calmag+ still be stopped for the last 2 weeks of nutes? Kinda confused on that. In your opinion will this formula work better with or without the overdrive. Its been back and forth.

[BlazeIdo]

[/QUOTE]My last 4-5 weeks:
every 5 gallons 40ml micro-80ml bloom-15ml calmag+.
when plants start to finish, and I see amber color trichs, I add Overdrive to mix for a week or 2 and flush a week

[/QUOTE]

Is the 15ml of calmag+ a topoff value?

[Racerx]

Latewood. Have you ever tried Advanced? The only reason I ask is because I have found its pretty much the same thing as GH...but more concentrated. Ever experienced this or considered it?

Anyways, to date the best stuff we have grown has been from 3 part and Growth Excel (a seaweed foliar spray). If your using all those additives, to keep the PPM low enough you need to skimp on the main nutrients which I really think is all they need. Have you considered dropping the Grow all together? Seems many people these days are doing entire cycles with just micro and bloom. I mean the Micro has more nitrogen then the grow. We use a 2/2/1 for veg of Grow, Micro, and Bloom. Before we were going 1/2/2 for the first 2 weeks of flower. Now we are going directly to 1/2/3. We will stay at 1/2/3 until about week 5 where we will go into 1/2/4 or just 0/2/4. PPM maxes out at about 1800-2000, our water is 220ppm. week 7.5 we drop ppm to 1200. Week 8.5 we drop to water and flushing again. Flush for 4 days.

This is just 3 part. 1 week into flower.

[latewood]

1.

Latewood , How much Liquid Karma after initial clone rooting and for about how long?



2. Interesting about how the LK acclimates clones for full nutes so early. explain please...:jointsmile:



3. Also Just to get this straight, for the flower assuming 8 week finish time, it would be (week 1-4, 3-part .25-1-2, weekly alternating top- offs with LK and calmag+)


(week 5, 3-part 0-1-2,weekly alternating top- offs with LK and calmag+)


(week 6-7, 3-part 0-1-2, Overdrive, Plain RO topoffs) (week 8 flush). If


4. Overdrive is not used should the Top offs with LK and Calmag+ still be stopped for the last 2 weeks of nutes? Kinda confused on that.



In your opinion will this formula work better with or without the overdrive. Its been back and forth.

1.[color=blue]I use it as staed in the original text of this thread. 40ml per 5g[/blue]

2.[color=blue]read the Liquid Karma label...then get back to me. the label should answer your Q[/blue]

3.[color=blue]week1...veg nutes1-1-1, week2-3...25-1-2,
week4-7...0-1-2. add to 0-1-2 week 6 and/or 7. I use it one week. no LK or calmag after week 5 top-off with ph'd water. [/blue]

4.[color=blue]NO on the Liquid K or calmag...don't need it! overdrive is opitonal...it is nice the way it draws the oils out, but is not necessary for a healthy harvest[/blue]



:smokin:

[latewood]

Latewood. Have you ever tried Advanced? The only reason I ask is because I have found its pretty much the same thing as GH...but more concentrated. Ever experienced this or considered it?

Anyways, to date the best stuff we have grown has been from 3 part and Growth Excel (a seaweed foliar spray). If your using all those additives, to keep the PPM low enough you need to skimp on the main nutrients which I really think is all they need. Have you considered dropping the Grow all together? Seems many people these days are doing entire cycles with just micro and bloom. I mean the Micro has more nitrogen then the grow. We use a 2/2/1 for veg of Grow, Micro, and Bloom. Before we were going 1/2/2 for the first 2 weeks of flower. Now we are going directly to 1/2/3. We will stay at 1/2/3 until about week 5 where we will go into 1/2/4 or just 0/2/4. PPM maxes out at about 1800-2000, our water is 220ppm. week 7.5 we drop ppm to 1200. Week 8.5 we drop to water and flushing again. Flush for 4 days.

This is just 3 part. 1 week into flower.

Did you read the beginning of this thread? Or just peruse the values...I thought that I clearly explained my findings/opinions on whether or not to use grow. I only drop grow starting in week 3-4 of flower.

I do not believe in the Lucas method...leaving grow out of the mix. I believe that the Lucas method is best used for folks with limited grow space and/or height restrictions!

all what additives??? my EC is never above 2.1 You use way stronger mix than I do!

"our water is 220ppm." I stated I use ro water...0 ppm, makes a huge difference. **calmag+ replenishes those essential elements that the ro process removes...except now. You have a perfect compliment of those elements. It doesn't add hardly any ppm. Of course.

**I believe that I mentioned this clearly in the article.

dude I am averaging 1/2 -3/4 lb which was my target...I get gooey ass finger hashin buds...that cure into sweet knock your dick in the dirt reefer. That's all I want. perfect 3-4 foot bushes...that bud out bigtime. Last time we figured it out, I was getting .65g per watt. Fair enough I say.

another note...I do not like the 3-2-1/1-2-3 formula either...In veg it is too stringy a plant with a lot of leaves. this is an outdoor formula In flower...good possibility of toxic shock. No I have found my happy photosynthesis, and I shared this info for people who would like a simple fool proof recipe.

In my opinion hardcore heavy feedings just present more problems and potential for failure. I wish you luck with your way...It seems to work for you.

And in closing; Advanced nutrients is an exact copy of General Hydroponics 3-part. They merely repackaged...might've tweaked it a minute bit...but, Advanced has done this with countless other companies products. Do I like Advanced Nutrients. Great stuff. Some new things. Hammerhead 0-11-19; I think. Looks very promising and is more on the money than pk 13-14, and for about 1/3-1/2 the cost!...less phosphates-more potassium....yeah!!! I want a bottle:smokin:

I have used AN 3-part, Voodoo Juice, Bud Blood (another copy), BigBud, Iguana Juice (crap)...want some? final phase, sensizyme, B-52, Carboload,
ph up/down...probably gh up/down??? maybe a couple more. I have to go look in the nostalgic bottle pile.

Now I hope I wasn't to blunt in my answers, but I have been working all night, and some of your question's were answered above. peace

later folks. lw

[Racerx]

I didnt read the whole thread with detail, I was just curious about that stuff. I was not challenging you Latewood, relax. All I was doing was confirming that using just 3 part was the best way to go, and using a lot of additives is taking focus off other aspects of the grow. Understand what I am saying? As far as my questions, I didnt read the whole thing in depth, sorry if I missed that part about ommitting grow, I was curious of your response. I personally use grow all the way through because Micro is more expensive then grow so by ommiting grow, Im using a lot more Micro. I get the grow for very cheap. Ive used Advanced with great results so thats what I continue to use, I aint saying GH is crap, just that I found it to be less concentrated.

PS. I only mentioned the PPM of our water so people know you dont need to use RO and waste a ton of water in the process. Obviously for many people, they do not live in an area where this is possible. I am blessed with perfect water that never develops algae and has no deficiencies. Im not argueing your "forumla", Im stating that all you need is 3 part.....

peace

[latewood]

:blueknife:calmag is only for those using ROwater. In case anyone missed. It is a matter of judgment. I quit using LK in flower once foliage is "apeshit" that is why I cut it out of the everytime recipe.

racerx. we both misunderstood each other. great ideas you have. The point of the thread was...You don't *need any stronger a nute solution...or, You can learn to grow, and this is all you'll need.:smokin: Got me?

To some this recipe might seem a little light, but I have tried to let the plant be itself as much as possible, and that seems to work out in both a healthy "bounty", and I don't have to worry about toxic shock, and hermies as much, lesser chance of stress.
If you guys can add all that ppm you are doing...goodluck is all I say. I would cut back a bit. I will close this paragraph by saying. I have run an EC of 3.0 and that is around 2200ppm, I've been there.
So Racerx. Challenge away, Just know that I tend to be blunt. no worries. peace:smokin: Oh yeah. One last time...

**Advanced Nutrients copied General Hydroponics recipe for 3-part. That is common knowledge. Quit thinking that if you buy advanced Nutrients 3-part you are gaining anything. Please! oH yeah. I forgot to list...

Overdrive in the last post...I think. Love it. Have always used it. IN fact I am out, and I am looking to try something different to finish with or a bloom booster to try out...

Any Suggestions. I know all you guys buy those big numbers...right off the bat! What do you use. Here is your chance to tell us; Right here right now! What Bloom enhancer do "you" :wtf: think is the best on the market.

additives and bloom boosters are great! :thumbsup: I just wanted to share you can get great results without buying all the extra stuff. NO frills, Just like General Hydroponics, and Advanced Nutrients** claim!

* I was never implying that with this recipe was the end all recipe. I will say I guarantee that you won't hurt your plants with methodology provided here; If you maintain a consistent ph5.8, that you maintain good growing conditions 70-80 degrees, humidity 38-50%, good air-circulation...etc.

I never claimed anyone would grow the biggest baddest-Ass potentist...plant they everrrrrrr grew. Then Again. Maybe:greenthumb::giggity::eat::bonghit::abduct:

[xcrispi]

Much love Latewood .
4 buckets + your recipe + 2000w. = 3lbs. Even w/ 3 of the 4 suposedly being a lower yielding strain . 3/4 lb. ea. just like you claim .
Just got my new turkey baster too for the next go round .
Peace man
Crispi

[Racerx]

Latewood, to be honest I never let it get past 1800ppm anymore because I do not see a difference in 1800 and 2000 and why use more nutrients...but the plant took it with no burn and a GREAT yield. It was however very large. You must also remember that 200 of that is my water so the amount of nutrients is not as much as it seems at first glance. Anyways, after this next grow I am working with Blueberry and Grapefruit and I can promise you I will be doing much much lower EC numbers. I have found our White Widow to be incredibly strong and hungry, but I am positive the lower yielding Grape and Blue will not eat nearly as much. That will be nice because right now we spend over $200 in nutrients per complete cycle, just for the one hydro room. And we get an awesome deal on the stuff. Thats almost 2.5 gallons of Micro, 2.5 gallons of bloom, and around 1.5 gallons of grow. If we are using Big Bud (which I like and is the only additive I use besides Hygrozyme) then its another $100 a grow for a gallon. $100 in Hygrozyme per complete cycle as well. Finally we have pH up and pH down (now this is one place I will argue to to the tooth, but AN has a far more concentrated pH then GH. It takes 5 drops to lower our 20 gallon reservoir by over a half point. It takes a tablespoon of GH pH down to do the same. I havent found a difference in holding the pH). pH up and down is another $20. So every complete cycle on one room, we are spending $420-$450 on nutrients. If I can get rid of the Bug Bud and run a lower PPM/EC and get the exact same results...well then I am freaking sold Latewood cause that could save me a couple hundred dollars a cycle which is 4 times a year so thats like nearly $1000 I could a year.

I guess I am simple in that I see the obvious visual correlation between gigantic huge healthy plants and large amounts of nutrients. I am worried about not using enough nutrients and feeling like I should have added more and I wasted time because I didnt. Know that feeling? If only I could get another grow of White Widow and try lower EC levels and compare.

PS. I have never found any of those small expensive AN additives to do jackshit but spend my cash; except Growth Excel. Have you used Growth Excel Latwood? If you have not, then that is the #1 thing you need to use (unless you use something that is of course very similar, it is a seawood extract foliar spray). Spray every morning when the lights come on. Results are fantastic. I dont use it on my hydro because the growth rate is too uncontrollable, but on our soil grows it works absolute wonders.