first time grow - leaf problem

[slayah]

hi, this is my first grow, that baby is about 2 weeks old. The first set of leaves started to become yellow about a week ago, but I didn't bother too much because they will fell off anyway, but the first true lieaves had started to yellow at the edges. I moved away the lamp(1500 lumen CF cool white) a little bit and the second set was not yellowing anymore . but now the first set has become brown and the second one is becomeing brown too at the edges. why is this happening ? maybe I should start fertilizing it ? I didn't use any nutrients. What NPK ratio should it be ?

By the way is it good enough for 2 weeks ?

slayah Reviewed by slayah on 11-03-2004. first time grow - leaf problem hi, this is my first grow, that baby is about 2 weeks old. The first set of leaves started to become yellow about a week ago, but I didn't bother too much because they will fell off anyway, but the first true lieaves had started to yellow at the edges. I moved away the lamp(1500 lumen CF cool white) a little bit and the second set was not yellowing anymore . but now the first set has become brown and the second one is becomeing brown too at the edges. why is this happening ? maybe I should Rating: 5

[Skateboardingpunk420]

well, I'd say its probably a ph or water problem. Looks good for the lumen output your light emits, for two weeks. Check the ph, make sure your using distilled water.
Also are you using alumminum foil?
that might cause problems as well, because it produces heat once the light is reflected, get some mylar.
Hope that helped

[psilocybin]

Start fertilizing it - but start slowly, give it 1/4 strength, then 1/3, and so on, gradually increase it to full strength but check on it's condition as you do. A general purpose 20-20-20 (N/P/K) fertilizer should work fine for you.

You shouldn't have to worry too much about the plant being close to the light, since it's a florescent - they don't give off much heat. To verify this, hold your hand between the plant and the light (cast a shadow with your hand). Hold it there for about 30 seconds - if your hand gets hot then you were right and the plant should be moved away. Doubtful you'll have that problem though. I'm running 440 watts through 4 48" florescent fixtures and there's next to no heat even right underneath them... but then again I do have an exhaust fan for the light system so that helps.

Check the pH as well, as Skateboardingpunk420 said although I doubt it's a problem if you havn't fertilized yet and used a good soil - hopefully addded some powered dolomite lime as a pH stabilizer?? Fertilizing lowers pH so be aware of that. You can pick up an electronic pH tester for a few bucks at a garden store - I got mine at Walmart right at the end of the season.

Water shouldn't be a problem unless there is something unusual in it - generally if it's safe to drink, it's safe for plants. You can give it a shot with distilled and see if you get any better results but I'm betting the fertilizer will work the best.

Oh yeah, and get rid of that aluminum foil. It sucks for reflecting. Get mylar or some cardboard painted with several nice coats of ultra flat white.

The plant looks pretty good for 2 weeks - I have one that about 1.5 weeks - only has one set of leaves, so I'd say you're doing something right.

[llamaman666]

lots of my plants naturally lose their 3 and 1 point leaves, but it is usualy later, have any fallen off yet? It mite be this.

[slayah]

today I found the leafs dropy, I thought it's because I didn't water them for 3 days, and the soil felt like dry enough to water, I watered it so that some water would come out thourh the holes in the bottom, and the leafs are even more dropy now, so I guess I overwatered it, so what should I do now?
by the way does overwatering occurs then the plant is watered too much at the time or just too often ?
so how much should I water ? I read that the water must come out through the holes, and that's what I've done.

[slayah]

I can't get it, then i water the leafs become droopy, after a day they become normal, and after one more day they are becomeing droopy again, then I water them and they become even more droopier. but I'm watering with same amount of water like in the first days, and it was ok fisrt. now they get overwatered every time. what am I doing wrong ?

[weedseed]

i say let the nature of your room have a go. let it sit and see what happens. i did that with my first crop when i had it in my attic and everything ended up ok.

[slayah]

everytime I water the leafs become droopy, so how much water do I have to add ? I will use oxy water next time(bubbled with fish tank bubbler) and see what happens, by the way how often should I spray her ? and how much ?

[psilocybin]

how much do you water it? you should water enough so the soil is evenly saturated but not completely soggy. with a pot that size you should have a little bit of drip out of the bottom when you water. (someone correct me if i'm wrong). get a moisture meter too - i picked one up from walmart at end of season for like $7.

spray? are you spraying water on the leaves? you shouldn't need to do this, at least not for a plant this size. when it gets larger it helps sometimes to spray the plant down but don't do it if the light is close - the water magnifies the light and will cause a burn mark on the leaves. as they grow, it's less of a problem/concern anymore. the only real *good* reason to spray the plant is foliar feeding (giving the plant nutes directly on the leaves instead of roots absorbing through soil). this allows the plant to use the nutes immeadiately, good for correcting a deficiency. but be careful with it, it's easy to overdo it. i'll attach a nute deficiency list i found from someone else on this board - might help you out some too. but remember this isn't a comprehensive list; it's only about nutes. your wilting could be caused by a completely different problem. thanks to whomever posted this originally (i don't remember who i got it from)

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Symptoms and Suspected Element:

Yellowing of Younger leaves............. Fe, Mn.
Yellowing of Middle leaves................ Mo.
Yellowing of Older leaves................. N, K, Mg, Zn.
Yellowing Between veins................. Mg, Mn.
Old leaves drop................................ N.
Leaf Curl Over.................................. Mg.
Leaf Curl Under................................ K, Cu, Over Fert.
Leaf tips burn, Younger leaves........ B.
Leaf tips burn, Older leaves............. N, Zn.
Young leaves wrinkle and curl.......... K, Zn, B, Mo.
Dead areas in the leaves................. K, Mg, Fe, Zn, Mn.
Leaf growth stunted........................ N, P.
Dark green/purplish leaves and stems......... P.
Pale green leaf color..................................... N, Mo.
Leaf Spotting.......................................... ...... Zn.
Spindly........................................... ............... N.
Soft stems............................................. ....... N, K.
Hard/brittle stems........................................ P, K.
Growing tips die........................................... K.
Stunted root growth.................................... P.
Wilting........................................... ............... Cu.


Use this chart as a reference ONLY. This is not a guaranteed diagnosis of your plant and you should only use this as a guideline to help you figure out what your nutrient solution is lacking...

ELEMENT and Description of Deficiency and Toxicity

N (Nitrogen) .................. Deficiency: Plants will exhibit lack of vigor as older leaves become yellow (chlorotic) from lack of chlorophyll. Chlorosis will eventually spread throughout the plant. Stems, petioles and lower leaf surfaces may turn purple.
Toxicity: Leaves are often dark green and in the early stages abundant with foliage. If excess is severe, leaves will dry and begin to fall off. Root system will remain under developed or deteriorate after time. Fruit and flower set will be inhibited or deformed.
P (Phosphorus) ...........Deficiency: Plants are stunted and older leaves often dark dull green in color. Stems, petioles may turn purple. Plant maturity is often delayed.
Toxicity: This condition is rare and usually buffered by pH limitations. Excess phosphorus can interfere with the availability of copper and zinc.
K (Potassium) .......... Deficiency: Older leaves are initially chlorotic but soon develop dark necrotic lesions (dead tissue). First apparent on the tips and margins of the leaves. Stem and branches may become weak and easily broken.
Toxicity: Usually not absorbed excessively by plants. Excess potassium can aggravate the uptake of magnesium, manganese, zinc and iron.
S (Sulfur) .......... Deficiency: The initial symptoms are the yellowing of the entire leaf including veins usually starting with the younger leaves. Leaf tips may yellow and curl downward.
Toxicity: Leaf size will be reduced and overall growth will be stunted. Leaves yellowing or scorched at edges.
Mg (Magnesium) .......... Deficiency: The older leaves will be the first to develop interveinal chlorosis. Starting at leaf margin or tip and progressing inward between the veins.
Toxicity: Magnesium toxicity are rare and not generally exhibited visibly.
Ca (Calcium) .......... Deficiency: Young leaves are affected first and become small and distorted or chlorotic with irregular margins, spotting or necrotic areas. Bud development is inhibited and roots may be underdeveloped or die back. Fruit may be stunted or deformed.
Toxicity: Difficult to distinguish visually. May precipitate with sulfur in solution and cause clouding or residue in tank.
Fe (Iron) ........... Deficiency: Pronounced interveinal chlorosis similar to that cased by magnesium deficiency but on the younger leaves.
Toxicity: Excess accumulation is rare but could cause bronzing or tiny brown spots on leaf surface.
Mn (Manganese) .......... Deficiency: Interveinal chlorosis on younger or older leaves followed by necrotic lesions or leaf shedding. Restricted growth and failure to mature normally can also result.
Toxicity: Chlorosis, or blotchy leaf tissue due to insufficient chlorophyll synthesis. Growth rate will slow and vigor will decline.
Cl (Chlorine) .......... Deficiency: Wilted chlorotic leaves become bronze in color. Roots become stunted and thickened near tips.
Toxicity: Burning of leaf tip or margins. Bronzing, yellowing and leaf splitting. Reduced leaf size and lower growth rate.
B (Boron) .......... Deficiency: Stem and root apical meristems often die. Root tips often become swollen and discolored. Internal tissues may rot and become host to fungal disease. Leaves show various symptoms which include drying, thickening, distorting, wilting, and chlorotic or necrotic spotting.
Toxicity: Yellowing of leaf tip followed by necrosis of the leaves beginning at tips or margins and progressing inward. Some plants are especially sensitive to boron accumulation.
Zn (Zinc) .......... Deficiency: Chlorosis may accompany reduction of leaf size and a shortening between internodes. Leaf margins are often distorted or wrinkled.
Toxicity: Zinc in excess is extremely toxic and will cause rapid death. Excess zinc interferes with iron causing chlorosis from iron deficiency.
Cu (Copper) .......... Deficiency: Young leaves often become dark green and twisted. They may die back or just exhibit necrotic spots. Growth and yield will be deficient as well.
Toxicity: Reduced growth followed by symptoms of iron chlorosis, stunting, reduced branching, abnormal darkening and thickening of roots. This element is essential but extremely toxic in excess.
Mo (Molybdenum) .......... Deficiency: Often interveinal chlorosis which occurs first on older leaves, then progressing to the entire plant. Developing severely twisted younger leaves which eventually die.
Toxicity: Excess may cause discoloration of leaves depending on plant species. This condition is rare but could occur from accumulation by continuous application. Used by the plant in very small quantities.

[psilocybin]

also, what kind of soil is it in? did you just pick up whatever from the store? do you know what's in it? it looks like it's lacking perlite, which is necessary for correct drainage. otherwise the soil holds too much water and it drowns the plant. pot hates being overwatered, if anything underwatering it is beter. think about it - where it grows naturally outdoors (which is pretty much anywhere except desert, rainforest, & tundra) - mother nature never lets the conditions go crazy. if it does (ie: a flood - which is probably what your plant is thinking is happening), the plant dies.

when growing indoors YOU have to be in total control. YOU have to play the role of mother nature, not the easiest thing to do sometimes.

anyway i'm digressing - i bet that is probably your problem. it's kinda too late now unfortunately though, you really can't mix up the soil with the plant already growing in it. try watering it less. also don't pour the water directly on the soil, put a papertowel down first so it doesn't wash away any soil and to help it spread evenly.