Just heading out now...I surfed all my life in Hawaii California..Baja mexico afrika...saipan islands..and many other places...
Its my escape from this hectic world we live in..and the waves...take me away from it..the ocean swell rolls in from thousands of miles and you ride..it...and there wont be another like it...even after we humans are long gone...there will always be waves.......


..only a surfer knows this feeling...
aloha...
keep surfing for peace...