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  1.     
    #11
    Senior Member

    light proofing cabs question

    Black Cab + Electrical Tape = no light on the outside.



    Weather strips work ok. You can also goto the local hardware store and find some wooden square "rods" or like door trimming. Nail/Glue it right in the middle and make sure it fits snug to the doors when closed.

    Wood/Trim is best for the middle gap. Weather strips are better for the bottom and side door gaps.

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  3.     
    #12
    Member

    light proofing cabs question

    Posterboard, Pants, T-Shirt, Duct Tape

    You guys have no idea.
    Any pictures posted by myself or anyone using my username are not my own and are in fact pictures I found on an image search engine. All posts are fictional and based off research. I DO NOT sell/cultivate or participate in any illegal activities what so ever and will not be held liable for anything that I or others say on these forums.

  4.     
    #13
    Senior Member

    light proofing cabs question

    Quote Originally Posted by k1ucHt
    Posterboard, Pants, T-Shirt, Duct Tape

    You guys have no idea.
    Shit; that suggestion is stupid what the hell are you thinking? If you don't have a valid point then save us all some time and post it over at CC then and not here.

    Paper will be destroyed in no time and pants and T-shits will hold in water, mold and god only know what else.

    Duct take is not light proof and with a little moisture will release in no time.


    You are the one who has NO clue here dude.

  5.     
    #14
    Senior Member

    light proofing cabs question

    Just use your imagination. There's probally hundreds of ways to achieve what you are looking for and you might find something in your home that will work.

    But yeah....paper is too weak and cloth holds moisture. You would be better off using some thicker Boss wood.

    I'd imagine duct tape would work great as long as you double tape it.

    To get tape to stick most effectively, clean the area you are going to apply the tape with (let it dry).

    Then run the tape all the way down the gap. If part of the door hinges are on the outside you might want to cut little slits in the tape where the hinges are so when you open the door, the tape will remain where you places it.

    The final trick with tape is to take something flat or has and edge (credit card, back side of a butter knife, a block of wood, etc etc).

    Start from the top and press down on the tape.

    Run the item down the tape line to get all the air bubbles out of the tape. This will create the best bond between the cab and tape.

    I've used that method for a small cab I built for someone who was using it to grow strawberries and it worked well.

    Best of luck!

  6.     
    #15
    Senior Member

    light proofing cabs question

    If you GO cheap then you grow cheap!!!!

    Good luck to you then, you get what you pay for.

  7.     
    #16
    Junior Member

    light proofing cabs question

    I think it's going to be difficult to staple the pond liner to the steel cabinet but Home Depot is the place to go.

    I've tried several things and strongly suggest you use the adhesive foam weather stripping around the frame of the cabinet where the doors contact the frame. Use the good black closed cell foam stripping. I believe it's sold for sealing the bottom of garage doors.

    For the gap between the two doors, if there is no wide rubber stripping with adhesive on one edge then I suggest you buy the heavy duty black planter edging. The stuff you stake in the ground around trees & shrubs to create a border between the grass and mulch. Use a good industrial adhesive like the corning liquid nails. Or if the doors are double walled you can screw it on with sheet metal screws.

    Now I assume from the thread title you're going for LIGHT proofing and not trying to seal the cabinet air tight. But keep in mind that unless you seal it air tight and create a venting system with a carbon scrubber, you will still have that sweet dank stank!

  8.     
    #17
    Senior Member

    light proofing cabs question

    Quote Originally Posted by pharcyde
    I think it's going to be difficult to staple the pond liner to the steel cabinet but Home Depot is the place to go.

    I've tried several things and strongly suggest you use the adhesive foam weather stripping around the frame of the cabinet where the doors contact the frame. Use the good black closed cell foam stripping. I believe it's sold for sealing the bottom of garage doors.

    For the gap between the two doors, if there is no wide rubber stripping with adhesive on one edge then I suggest you buy the heavy duty black planter edging. The stuff you stake in the ground around trees & shrubs to create a border between the grass and mulch. Use a good industrial adhesive like the corning liquid nails. Or if the doors are double walled you can screw it on with sheet metal screws.

    Now I assume from the thread title you're going for LIGHT proofing and not trying to seal the cabinet air tight. But keep in mind that unless you seal it air tight and create a venting system with a carbon scrubber, you will still have that sweet dank stank!
    Good point :thumbsup: I thought it was a wood cabinet. Pop rivet it then 1/8" pop rivets would be fine are easy to do:dance:

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