electricity

[turtle420]

turtle , you say that some times it works sometimes it doesnt if this is the case then both circuits must be linked and they split when the 20amp power draw kicks in ,so the 20 amp will more probibaly be a boiler or air conditioning or something along those lines , thats why it there if the circuits linked when the 20 amp draw came on then it would trip it could possibaly be overcome by a qualified spark but i dont know enough about 120v or the circuits to advise you on how to overcome this, do you have to use both circuts ?

Hey Scobbie,

I checked, and here's the layout:::
15 AMP circuit --> three wall sockets (6 outlets total)
20 AMP circuit --> two wall sockets (4 outlets total)

Here's what I have hooked-up:
15AMP::::
4x 43Watt CFLs for the mother cabinet (only one turned one @ the moment)
The NutraMist (200W)
50CFM fart fan (about 40 watts max, I think)


20AMP:::
400W MH
90CFM+50CFM fart fans (100W max between both)
Small CD radio (??? 50 watts? the thing is tiny)
550CFM Dayton (100W max) + small 8" desk fan (100W max)
My laptop (about 300W... big laptop),
the UPS for the laptop,
Chargers (digital camera, PDA)


That's it... Interesting side note:::
I've got two kinds of X10 relays... typeA is a three-pronged module that you plug into the wall, and then plug your appliance into the module.

TypeB is an in-line module that I had to make the electrical harness for it.
typeB is a heavy duty, inductive load 15Amp module.

All typeA modules work fine anywhere I plug them in (15A or 20A), but typeB modules have to be in the same circuit as the controller.

Thanks Scobbie,

-turtle420
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