"THE SEALED ROOM" 3lbs A LIGHT

[harris7]

I agreed with Winks after I read your thread. If you know how to flush in a box with no drainage… please go on

[pmorris]

You are flushing your plants by feeding them phd water. Having a drain or not doesnt mean anything because if you are watering when the topsoil is dry every 2 -3 days depending what type of soil you are using there will be little to no drainage. In my soil bed i am using sunshine mix #4 also but i do have drains but since i only watering just enough there is never runoff/drainage.

If you have deficiencies or lockouts or tip burn, giving your plants a cycle of plain water pH adjusted to 6.3 will help. you should be letting the plants dry out between waterings/flushings. Its also good to feed / water /water each week to prevent problems. And keep in mind you are flushing your plants not the soil, same thing goes for feeding.. You dont have to have runoff or drainage to flush your plants. You want to be feeding/watering just enough not waterlogging the soil. I hope this make since.

[harris7]

“And keep in mind you are flushing your plants not the soil”

That isn’t my understanding

Flushing say for nute burn, is to remove say nitrogen from the soil so that the plant cannot take up any more.

I had to flush just last week because of a potassium lock up caused by my manure which has to much Na+ in it. So I wanted to remove the salts from the soil, nothing to do with the plant.

[faithlessxxx]

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On a related but somewhat enigmatic note, and after a lot of browsing before I ask, what does a Line Conditioner Voltage Regulator do? How does it work?
And how well?

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[pmorris]

â??And keep in mind you are flushing your plants not the soilâ?�

That isnâ??t my understanding

Flushing say for nute burn, is to remove say nitrogen from the soil so that the plant cannot take up any more.

I had to flush just last week because of a potassium lock up caused by my manure which has to much Na+ in it. So I wanted to remove the salts from the soil, nothing to do with the plant.

Part of flushing is washing the nutes off the roots and removing the nutes from inside the plant with pure water . Giving your plants a cycle of plain water pH adjusted to 6.3 may help with lock out if that is what you are dealing with it's pretty simple.
Adding pH'd water to your medium will bring the medium pH close to that level...the idea behind giving your plants a cycle of plain pH'd water between weekly feedings is to reduce the level of accumulated nutrients that can affect the pH in the medium. Also you should be giving your plants ph'd water once a week to prevent lockout.

[harris7]

I know a fair amount about plant biology and I dont believe that you can remove nutes from inside the plant. The plant has quite a difficult time getting them in, using ion exchange. It is not as simple as changing the concentration on one side of a semipermeable membrane

[Aaron385]

You are correct. It is cool you have taken the time to get to know the osmotic process, a process which even by our modern science is not fully understood.

The "flushing" process is more concerned with providing the plants with pure water which will allow the plant to continue its processes of using up the nutrients it has already absorbed. The remaining nutrients in the plants at this point will have been assimilated into plant matter which will have one of two classifications: mobile and immobile. Immobile are just that, immobile, and they are more or less unaffected by the flush. Mobile nutrients, most notability nitrogen, will be burned up in the plants and this is the key concept to flushing. Getting the nitrogen out will allow the plant matter to cure much faster providing a more pleasurable smoking experience in the minimal amount of cure time. This can easily be accomplished without drainage, however, drainage would provide a way to more easily assure you can get the remaining nutrients out of the grow medium or soil. I would assume the lack of drainage in tranobles situation is potentially the reason he chooses to flush for 10 days (a little longer than normal). Does that answer your question?

Tranoble – Thanks for the answers on my CO2 questions! Let me list out your questions here..

>I use about two 20lb tanks for 6.5 weeks
DAMN! That is a lot of propane! Oh and I wanted to say that I agree on turning the CO2 off for the last week or two.

>What kind of burner are you using? Does your burner have a glow plug or a pilot light?
I have used both bottle injection and a burner, however neither of which is up and running now due to the bottle being used on a keggerator and the temps are like 87F in the room right now without the burner running at all.. Needless to say I’m hoping for an early winter! When I use the burner I have I just walk in the room and light it (I don’t use a pilot light). Half the time the CO2 is pretty high anyways for some unknown reason and only recently have the levels been under a thousand ppm. I live in a manufacturing town, that’s about the only reason I think the ambient CO2 levels are so high, but hell I’m ok with it! I am thinking about setting my digital controller to 1400ppm and hooking up bottle injection with a full bottle of CO2 and see if the bottle lasts long enough to be practical.

>Do you have a dehumidifer? I try to keep my humidy at about 70-75%

Yep, I have the 40 pint model too, and I have it on a timer to come on during the dark cycle only and it keeps the Relative Humidity at about 45-50%. During the light cycle my rooms humidity is only about 45% without the dehumidifier running, I am surprised at how high you run your humidity. Do you use a sulfur burner?

[harris7]

yes and no, I am not talking about the final flush. i'm talking about an emergency flush when you over nute or something. is not the principle behind this to remove the nutes from the soil so the plants uptake will slow? Then it uses the ones up inside the plant and you start it on nutes again...

I know that a final flush can be done because in that case you are just not providing any nutes so the plant will use all the stored ones up, so that no one is smoking nutes.

[Tranoble]

This flush thing is getting out of hand. Im gonna answer this one last time and i hope i dont hear about any more lol. I water with PH'd water ever 3rd watering. For the last 10 days i give my plants straight PH'd water and I flush with Flora Kleen. Im getting allmost 3lb per 1000w light. If im doing something wrong please let me know what i can do to correct this. I know my plants might not get the flush the really need sometimes but there is no way I will soak my beds so much that the water runs out the bottem.

yes and no, I am not talking about the final flush. i'm talking about an emergency flush when you over nute or something. is not the principle behind this to remove the nutes from the soil so the plants uptake will slow? Then it uses the ones up inside the plant and you start it on nutes again...

I know that a final flush can be done because in that case you are just not providing any nutes so the plant will use all the stored ones up, so that no one is smoking nutes.

[Tranoble]

Hi Aaron. I keep my humidity so I high because i find its a find line and I dont want my leaves to dry out. I allways go over kill with everything I do and a 40 pint dehumidifier maybe a little big for the size of my room. I do have a sulfer burner. I used it for powdery mildew. I havent had powdery mildew for a few years so I havent been useing it. I do use it at other places that I have I think that might be because they are at a lower elivation. All in all i dont use it that much. When i do use it i would turn it on for 3hrs when the lights were out.

My Co2 is at 1400PPM at week 4. My Co2 is at 2000PPM right now but tonight i will be turning my Co2 off. I will be giving my plants there last 10 days of water and Flora Kleen(Final Flush).

You are correct. It is cool you have taken the time to get to know the osmotic process, a process which even by our modern science is not fully understood.

The "flushing" process is more concerned with providing the plants with pure water which will allow the plant to continue its processes of using up the nutrients it has already absorbed. The remaining nutrients in the plants at this point will have been assimilated into plant matter which will have one of two classifications: mobile and immobile. Immobile are just that, immobile, and they are more or less unaffected by the flush. Mobile nutrients, most notability nitrogen, will be burned up in the plants and this is the key concept to flushing. Getting the nitrogen out will allow the plant matter to cure much faster providing a more pleasurable smoking experience in the minimal amount of cure time. This can easily be accomplished without drainage, however, drainage would provide a way to more easily assure you can get the remaining nutrients out of the grow medium or soil. I would assume the lack of drainage in tranobles situation is potentially the reason he chooses to flush for 10 days (a little longer than normal). Does that answer your question?

Tranoble â?? Thanks for the answers on my CO2 questions! Let me list out your questions here..

>I use about two 20lb tanks for 6.5 weeks
DAMN! That is a lot of propane! Oh and I wanted to say that I agree on turning the CO2 off for the last week or two.

>What kind of burner are you using? Does your burner have a glow plug or a pilot light?
I have used both bottle injection and a burner, however neither of which is up and running now due to the bottle being used on a keggerator and the temps are like 87F in the room right now without the burner running at all.. Needless to say Iâ??m hoping for an early winter! When I use the burner I have I just walk in the room and light it (I donâ??t use a pilot light). Half the time the CO2 is pretty high anyways for some unknown reason and only recently have the levels been under a thousand ppm. I live in a manufacturing town, thatâ??s about the only reason I think the ambient CO2 levels are so high, but hell Iâ??m ok with it! I am thinking about setting my digital controller to 1400ppm and hooking up bottle injection with a full bottle of CO2 and see if the bottle lasts long enough to be practical.

>Do you have a dehumidifer? I try to keep my humidy at about 70-75%

Yep, I have the 40 pint model too, and I have it on a timer to come on during the dark cycle only and it keeps the Relative Humidity at about 45-50%. During the light cycle my rooms humidity is only about 45% without the dehumidifier running, I am surprised at how high you run your humidity. Do you use a sulfur burner?