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  1.     
    #291
    Senior Member

    "THE SEALED ROOM" 3lbs A LIGHT

    Using this setup and no Co2 would work im just not sure how well. The plants give off Co2 when the lights are out and take it in when the lights are on. With no Co2 burner the plants would not be taking in very much Co2. If your not going to use a Co2 burner you might want to use an intake and out take. The Co2 burner makes a huge difference. If you ask me Co2 burner (with glow plug) and a Co2 computer is a must have. Allso if you are going to use Co2 allways set your PPM on your Co2 computer to the same as your PPM that your food is at.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Green Thumb
    Tranoble, what difference would it make if you did everything the same but didn't use the sealed room method and Co2? Have you ever done this before and what do you think the decrease in production would be? I am really just curious how much benefit Co2 really has compared to no Co2. I am sure it is a big deal as your crop looks amazing but I thought I would ask your professional opinion. Also, what are your thoughts on Co2 use?

    I have read the entire thread from day 1 and I must say it is the best and most informative thread I have read in some time. Thanks for sharing this info with the grow community!

    TGT

  2.     
    #292
    Senior Member

    "THE SEALED ROOM" 3lbs A LIGHT

    On the topic of CO2 I think I have a good question for you tranoble. But before I pick your brain, I want to say super thanks for this info and I have been able to utilize some of your methods which have proven very valuable to me.

    I am using a digital CO2 ppm meter/controller and I am trying to zero in on a final system for enrichment. I have a burner but my cooling system cant handle its operation if I am trying to keep ppms up for the entire light cycle. I can definatly hit target ppms range and I can stay there for a couple hours before the burner heats the room over the air conditioners capacity.

    My room is a "sealed" room (thanks to this thread alone by the way), although calling it air tight is kind of pushing it, I have tried to plug every in and out to the room but I can watch the CO2 ppm meter after either a burn or injecting CO2 that the ppms really take a dive as soon as the source is shut off. I can watch humidity and I wish it would take as much of a dive as CO2 does but it does not.. which proves the room is like 99.something% sealed.

    I guess what im asking, do you see CO2 ppms take a dive as soon as you shut off your burner? Like if I shut off the burner at a stabilized 1500ppm I can watch ppms dive to 1000ppms in about 5mins. Is this normal? I thought it was a sealing issue but I have "great stuff"'d the hell out every crack and I think its very tight. I would hate to think how fast I would use up CO2 cylinders.. but anyways..

    It brings to question, I have read many books which preach the 4 time saturatuon per light cycle method and I havent run into any reputable info that supports a constantly increased ppm steady through the whole light cycle and you are the only one I know that reccomends it. Now, it makes complete sense, and moreover I really respect your insights. Im stuck right now with making a decision to upgrade cooling (buying an even larger AC unit) just to run constant increased ppms or going old school with 4 times a light cycle and I would really apreciate your input.

    Your words are like gold to me so I would really appreciate your opinion on this!

  3.     
    #293
    Senior Member

    "THE SEALED ROOM" 3lbs A LIGHT

    Your Co2 should never drop to 1000ppm when you have your computer set at 1500ppm. Using the Co2 computer should turn your burner on again as soon as it drops to 1450ppm then when your room gos back up to 1550ppm it will kick off the burner again. You might wanna try putting your Co2 sensor closer to your burner. My sensor is only a few feet away. I use about two 20lb tanks for 6.5 weeks of bud then my Co2 is turned off for the remainder of the bud cycle. What kind of burner are you using? Does your burner have a glow plug or a pilot light? With the sealed room you must use a burner with a glow plug.

    Dont worry about sealing your room so tight. Plastic and tape is enough. For your heat problem you burner might not be big enough for the size of your room. I allways buy a bigger burner so my room fills up with Co2 faster causing less heat. Buying a bigger burner would be cheaper than buying a new A/C.

    As for your humidy being high. Do you have a dehumidifer? I am really carefull with my dehumidifer. I use a 40 pint dehumidifer. If the humidity is to low it will dry out your leaves and make them yellow. I try to keep my humidy at about 70-75% when the lights are on. Right now because of the time of year I dont even have my dehumidifer plugged in.

    I hope I have answered your questions. Im glad to try to help you out. Good luck.

    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron385
    On the topic of CO2 I think I have a good question for you tranoble. But before I pick your brain, I want to say super thanks for this info and I have been able to utilize some of your methods which have proven very valuable to me.

    I am using a digital CO2 ppm meter/controller and I am trying to zero in on a final system for enrichment. I have a burner but my cooling system cant handle its operation if I am trying to keep ppms up for the entire light cycle. I can definatly hit target ppms range and I can stay there for a couple hours before the burner heats the room over the air conditioners capacity.

    My room is a "sealed" room (thanks to this thread alone by the way), although calling it air tight is kind of pushing it, I have tried to plug every in and out to the room but I can watch the CO2 ppm meter after either a burn or injecting CO2 that the ppms really take a dive as soon as the source is shut off. I can watch humidity and I wish it would take as much of a dive as CO2 does but it does not.. which proves the room is like 99.something% sealed.

    I guess what im asking, do you see CO2 ppms take a dive as soon as you shut off your burner? Like if I shut off the burner at a stabilized 1500ppm I can watch ppms dive to 1000ppms in about 5mins. Is this normal? I thought it was a sealing issue but I have "great stuff"'d the hell out every crack and I think its very tight. I would hate to think how fast I would use up CO2 cylinders.. but anyways..

    It brings to question, I have read many books which preach the 4 time saturatuon per light cycle method and I havent run into any reputable info that supports a constantly increased ppm steady through the whole light cycle and you are the only one I know that reccomends it. Now, it makes complete sense, and moreover I really respect your insights. Im stuck right now with making a decision to upgrade cooling (buying an even larger AC unit) just to run constant increased ppms or going old school with 4 times a light cycle and I would really apreciate your input.

    Your words are like gold to me so I would really appreciate your opinion on this!

  4.     
    #294
    Senior Member

    "THE SEALED ROOM" 3lbs A LIGHT

    A small question. Do you ever worry about having to flush plants using the box method. I wouldn't want to use it because you cannot flush. I guess this isn't a problem cuz you know what your doing, but what about us noobs should we wait till we know what were doing until we use the box?

  5.     
    #295
    Senior Member

    "THE SEALED ROOM" 3lbs A LIGHT

    I flush with water for about 10 days. Why would you wait till you know what your doing to use the box method? Its so easy a 9yr old could grow this way.

    Quote Originally Posted by harris7
    A small question. Do you ever worry about having to flush plants using the box method. I wouldn't want to use it because you cannot flush. I guess this isn't a problem cuz you know what your doing, but what about us noobs should we wait till we know what were doing until we use the box?

  6.     
    #296
    Senior Member

    "THE SEALED ROOM" 3lbs A LIGHT

    not the final flush, just a normal flush. Say if you over nute. with the box there isn't any way, to my knowledge, to flush out the soil

  7.     
    #297
    Senior Member

    "THE SEALED ROOM" 3lbs A LIGHT

    I sometimes I use final flush but i think that stuff might be a rip off. If I feel like my plants have over nute I guess give them water till they look ok again. Some people I know drill a hole in each corner of there table. I get over 2 lbs a light so I dont think this is a problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by harris7
    not the final flush, just a normal flush. Say if you over nute. with the box there isn't any way, to my knowledge, to flush out the soil

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  9.     
    #298
    Member

    "THE SEALED ROOM" 3lbs A LIGHT

    Quote Originally Posted by harris7
    not the final flush, just a normal flush. Say if you over nute. with the box there isn't any way, to my knowledge, to flush out the soil
    You can flush using soil (medium) just like in hydro, by using phd water.... Where are you getting your infomation?

  10.     
    #299
    Member

    "THE SEALED ROOM" 3lbs A LIGHT

    Quote Originally Posted by pmorris
    You can flush using soil (medium) just like in hydro, by using phd water.... Where are you getting your infomation?
    Have you not read this thread??

    Harris7 was asking about the lack of drainage. I think we know that you can flush using pH'd water. The issue isn't about how to flush..just technically how that would work in a box with no drains....

    I"m bitchy and stoned so don't take this the wrong way, I just hate to have tranoble waste time responding to post that has nothing to do with the convo., I"m just eagerly awaiting his response to the flushing/box issue as I truely admire his work.

    Also I'm pissed that chat is down...now back to the issue at hand,
    Winks

  11.     
    #300
    Member

    "THE SEALED ROOM" 3lbs A LIGHT

    Quote Originally Posted by Winks
    Have you not read this thread??

    Harris7 was asking about the lack of drainage. I think we know that you can flush using pH'd water. The issue isn't about how to flush..just technically how that would work in a box with no drains....

    I"m bitchy and stoned so don't take this the wrong way, I just hate to have tranoble waste time responding to post that has nothing to do with the convo., I"m just eagerly awaiting his response to the flushing/box issue as I truely admire his work.

    Also I'm pissed that chat is down...now back to the issue at hand,
    Winks
    you must be really high because having a drain or not you can still flush your plants if you over nute... And that has nothing to do with me reading the thread... I was responding to the guys question after tran answered both of his questions. obviously he didnt know that if you read his first question. "I wouldn't want to use it because you cannot flush." - harris7
    has nothing to do with the convo. ?? we are talking about flushing... you chiming in to talk shit has nothing to do with the convo. Maybe you need to read the post and then the response. And think about what you are saying.

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