"THE SEALED ROOM" 3lbs A LIGHT

[jaysmoke]

hey dude really enjoying the show.. Man you are way ahead of your time.. people are just now realizing the benefits of sealed rooms and youve been doing it for a minute. I remember the first time i visited this page, and it was all doubts, i even remember a page on OG discussing your practices, and people were straight h8ing on your style and wouldnt believe 3ps a lights.

anywho, juss got a couple questions. you say you put 30 plants in a 3.75 X 3.75 space under 1 light. How do u get 30 plants? do u have 6 rows of 5 plants? if so why? 3.75 x 3.75 is a square .

also, can you tell me about your c02 levels and at what point do you turn the co2 off ? which week? what level do they peek at in which week?

also you say you trim at 10 days into flowering and you take of the bottom 7-8 brances, at any other point in the grow do you do any additional trimming? DO you get single colas only or do you still get some side branching?

THANKS ALOT BRO u are a great sourcce of inspiration.

jaysmoke Reviewed by jaysmoke on 07-30-2006. "THE SEALED ROOM" 3lbs A LIGHT THE SEALED ROOM Listen im not very good at writing this stuff down. You can post reply's with any specific questions and I will answer them best I can. My pictures of my room are 1 week from cutting down. Based On A 4 Light Room. Pictures are of a 8 Light Room. I start by sealing my room as best I can. From there I start by building a 8ft by 8ft box with 2x6. Then I screw 2 sheets of OSB 4x8 sheets to the bottom (sort of like a water bed box). I line the inside with polly making Rating: 5

[Racerx]

Hey Tramble, can you explain to me the specific reasons why you use the planter box? I re-read the thread and maybe I missed it. What are the advantages of this over packing pots together? More soil? More nutrients available because of more soil? Plants bind together so they are held more firmly? Soil doesnt need to be deep because roots can go horizontal more?

I am getting to the point where I need to buy the materials for my new setup. The fact that building a box seems actually cheaper then pots and would ease the watering...Im tempted to go this route.

Thanks for your help!!! (PS. Decided to just go with 4 stationary 1000watt for now and building up to more if I need to).

[Tranoble]

Yes that is correct 5 rows of 6. It all depends on the size of the room im using. Some times i build my tables 7ft x 7ft. Some times i build them 8ft x 8ft. It all depends what the width of my room is. So on a 7ft by 7ft table I would go with 10 rows of 12. With the 8ft table i would go 12 rows of 12. With the co2 levels I have my ppm on my co2 set to the same as my ppm in my food. Be sure that your room temp is not below 85. Co2 will work its best if the room temp is 85 and the ppm are the same as your food. I turn the co2 off for the last 10-14 days. I dont trim at all after taking off the bottom branches. I only pick up leaves that have fallen on the dirt. Yes you do get some side branches but mainly 1 huge bud and 4-5 side branch tops half the size. Good luck i hope this helps.

hey dude really enjoying the show.. Man you are way ahead of your time.. people are just now realizing the benefits of sealed rooms and youve been doing it for a minute. I remember the first time i visited this page, and it was all doubts, i even remember a page on OG discussing your practices, and people were straight h8ing on your style and wouldnt believe 3ps a lights.

anywho, juss got a couple questions. you say you put 30 plants in a 3.75 X 3.75 space under 1 light. How do u get 30 plants? do u have 6 rows of 5 plants? if so why? 3.75 x 3.75 is a square .

also, can you tell me about your c02 levels and at what point do you turn the co2 off ? which week? what level do they peek at in which week?

also you say you trim at 10 days into flowering and you take of the bottom 7-8 brances, at any other point in the grow do you do any additional trimming? DO you get single colas only or do you still get some side branching?

THANKS ALOT BRO u are a great sourcce of inspiration.

[Tranoble]

I think using the box method is alot easier. When I take my dirt out of the box I cut it in squares then remove the dirt in squares. The dirt is bound with roots like you wouldnt believe. I allso replace the dirt after every show. * I never reuse dirt *

Good luck on your room. Ill answer any more question if you like.

Hey Tramble, can you explain to me the specific reasons why you use the planter box? I re-read the thread and maybe I missed it. What are the advantages of this over packing pots together? More soil? More nutrients available because of more soil? Plants bind together so they are held more firmly? Soil doesnt need to be deep because roots can go horizontal more?

I am getting to the point where I need to buy the materials for my new setup. The fact that building a box seems actually cheaper then pots and would ease the watering...Im tempted to go this route.

Thanks for your help!!! (PS. Decided to just go with 4 stationary 1000watt for now and building up to more if I need to).

[jaysmoke]

hey dude thanks for the quick reply. Juss one more thing i dont understand and dont know if you covered it. How does the drainage work? is there any? the reason im asking is because it looks like the bed is on the floor.

[pmorris]

Hey Tranoble, I saw how you only mentioned you used 4 HPS lights. Do you use mh lights? I have a quick question, does it make a difference if you use hps for the full grow vs mh then hps ?

[thebullfrog]

Hey Tranoble, I saw how you only mentioned you used 4 HPS lights. Do you use mh lights? I have a quick question, does it make a difference if you use hps for the full grow vs mh then hps ?

I was in at my local shop and had a decent chat to get tips from experienced growers. I too have had a million very detailed questions clearly marking me as a newbie hahaha. But i askd him about the HPS/MH flipping and he said that the difference isnt that noticable to a new grower. He recommended using cheap HPS bulbs to help keep costs down, while learning, tuning, and optimizing yields through ways that WILL have a noticable difference, like temps, food, water, and a the signals of the plant itself.

I kno how easily it is to get overwhelmd with all the tech, and the details, and etc. But it really made me chill out about growing and worrying about all the many ways things can go wrong. I think as new growers, we want all the best equip. cuz we think that it'll help compensate for our lack of firsthand knowledge, but really you should keep it as cheap and as simple as possible cuz u're gonna b making the most mistakes in the beginning.

Buying a ferrari doesnt make u a good driver, so buy that junker and beat the crap out of it while you learn, then when you've gone as far as you can go with what you have, then upgrade to reap the true benefits!

jus my two cents =) cheers!

[Tranoble]

You are so right. But once you know what you are doing be sure to upgrade to decent equipment. You get what you pay for. If you go cheap you will get cheap results.

I was in at my local shop and had a decent chat to get tips from experienced growers. I too have had a million very detailed questions clearly marking me as a newbie hahaha. But i askd him about the HPS/MH flipping and he said that the difference isnt that noticable to a new grower. He recommended using cheap HPS bulbs to help keep costs down, while learning, tuning, and optimizing yields through ways that WILL have a noticable difference, like temps, food, water, and a the signals of the plant itself.

I kno how easily it is to get overwhelmd with all the tech, and the details, and etc. But it really made me chill out about growing and worrying about all the many ways things can go wrong. I think as new growers, we want all the best equip. cuz we think that it'll help compensate for our lack of firsthand knowledge, but really you should keep it as cheap and as simple as possible cuz u're gonna b making the most mistakes in the beginning.

Buying a ferrari doesnt make u a good driver, so buy that junker and beat the crap out of it while you learn, then when you've gone as far as you can go with what you have, then upgrade to reap the true benefits!

jus my two cents =) cheers!

[Tranoble]

My tables are up on milk crates. It saves your back big time. LOL. I dont have any drainage in my table cause I just water enough so that 24 hrs later they need watering again. I do know alot of people that use drainage and all they do if drill a 1" hole in each corner of the tables.

hey dude thanks for the quick reply. Juss one more thing i dont understand and dont know if you covered it. How does the drainage work? is there any? the reason im asking is because it looks like the bed is on the floor.

[pmorris]

I was in at my local shop and had a decent chat to get tips from experienced growers. I too have had a million very detailed questions clearly marking me as a newbie hahaha. But i askd him about the HPS/MH flipping and he said that the difference isnt that noticable to a new grower. He recommended using cheap HPS bulbs to help keep costs down, while learning, tuning, and optimizing yields through ways that WILL have a noticable difference, like temps, food, water, and a the signals of the plant itself.

I kno how easily it is to get overwhelmd with all the tech, and the details, and etc. But it really made me chill out about growing and worrying about all the many ways things can go wrong. I think as new growers, we want all the best equip. cuz we think that it'll help compensate for our lack of firsthand knowledge, but really you should keep it as cheap and as simple as possible cuz u're gonna b making the most mistakes in the beginning.

Buying a ferrari doesnt make u a good driver, so buy that junker and beat the crap out of it while you learn, then when you've gone as far as you can go with what you have, then upgrade to reap the true benefits!

jus my two cents =) cheers!

I toally understand what you mean. but i dont see the logic in buying a cheap light, then upgrading to a good one. when you can just learn with a good light