This info was given to me on this sight it came from a good source as u can tell. A little long but necessary to make its point. i hope it helps.



(i) always tiedown/position the longest of the dominant branches/sidebranch to the perpendicular of the sun's path - never parallel with it...and position it almost at equal level with the highest dominant shoots that are not being trained, and keep it there all its life(when further training) as the plant grows so as it is not considered a low priority for growth by the plant itself as it is growing. For if you tie it too far down, then the other highest/dominating shoots will take priority in the distribution of nutes and growing-energy by the plant itself. Keep it close to the higher levels, whilst still tying outwards away from them as much as possible without upsetting this balance too much...or the trained stem will grow alot less and slower thereafter. In fact - if you plan on growing her to massive proportions and you see she has the ability to do so, it would pay to do that to both opposing shoots if thye are equally long, if not pick another shoot on the opposing side that is similar in length and vigour. Again perpendicular to the suns' path, BUT in opposing directions. Then your plant will end up looking like a small stall of plants, instead of just one. The reason we stick to aligning the plant perpendicular to the sun's path, is so that BOTH sides of the shoot/branch are blasted with direct light every day. Half in the morning, and half in the evening. For it only takes a minimum of 4hours of direct sunlight to develope the plant and its buds to its average full potential. That way ALL the shoots and buds growing off this trained dominant shoot will have the chance to fully develop. Not just one side of them, as would be the case if it were trained parallel to the suns path - for it is offset from the direct Apex of the above sky(the suns' path that is). In fact, it best to train or encourage the growth of the plant as much as possible in this manner for maximising yield outdoors in the ground. If one is about to transplant a well vegged plant into the ground, it best they do so by placing in the same manner. IOW, the longest horizontal stretch of the plant perpendicular to the suns path. So that again, the maximum amount of the plant is exposed to both side of its' growth with direct sunlight every day. When I say the 'longest horizontal stretch of the plant' I am refering to the longest/widest part of the plant when looked at from directly above - 'plan view'. For plants rarely grow equally round - they always have an offset when viewed from above and looking down at them. Use this to your advantage by placing them so as to assure both sides of the growing plant are in direct sunlight - not just one side. As is the case with both, indoor growing under lights (hence the smaller yields before we even start, let alone the weaker less penetrating artifical light), and placing the girth of the plant parallel with the suns' path instead of perpendicular. For indoors, to fully delevop buds to their max potential, we need 11-12hours of direct artificial light upon them, irrespective of the power/wattage used. In the Sun - 4hours does the same job, even on overcast summer days when at least 80% of the sunlight penetrates the clouds, and over 95% of the UV bands penetrate them too. Hence why we get sunburnt badly even on overcast summer days. As the damaging UV bands travel through clouds as though they weren't there.
anyhandle Reviewed by anyhandle on . top & bend??? ive recently topped about half the plants i have outside and tied them down also....has anyone had any personal experience topping the plant and bending it?? Rating: 5