mg deficiencies

[Indimaniac]

the whole reason I foliar fed was to see if nutrients were locked out after the problem had existed for a little over a week...

[Indimaniac]

exactly nutrient lockout!! that's why I posted in my previous post that when the problem persisted for a few weeks I started flushing with distilled water and then after that ran light dose feeding again in the distilled water... during just water flush I checked runoff ph and ppms and I had a ph of 6.7 and 800ppm(again this is runoff of distilled water that was reading 30ppm going in) Would that indicate enough shit in soil to cause lockout??

[Indimaniac]

Please read previous post!! But to shovel and polish would you two be kind enough to look at my two other current threads (are my outdoor girls ready & partial log multi strain) as I have other current question that id really like some good feedback on and you guys are always great, and im not gettin any answers from anyone else anyway lol! Thank you so much in advance!!:thumbsup:

[polishpollack]

Over the years, the term nute lockout has always been real popular. The funny thing is, no one in net forums has ever offered proof that lockout is really that much of a problem. I don't know how the use of this term got started, but even way back in 2000 on Overgrow, people came up with the strangest things to explain why someone else was seeing strange color on their plants - everything from "dude, check your pH," to "dude, lockout," to "dude, maybe you've got a cat that pees in the buckets." (Actually that last one was mine which I wrote as a joke back then).
So, to deal with this issue, the thing that in my opinion is the best solution is to understand that controlling a grow doesn't make it better. Use half-strength ferts is no guarantee that you're doing the right thing. Flushing and testing your ppm and pH is no guarantee that the information will help. Therefore, what many growers should do, is keep their grows as simple as possible. This means to grow as nature does, using bacteria and fungi to break down fert materials into a molecular size that roots can absorb. This is why the fert companies make powder ferts that either comes in boxes or bags. There are many other ferts to use, but if a grower puts one half cup of powder fert, like foxfarm's (in the yellow box), for every two gallons of potting soil, you'll probably see the success you're looking for. Once you do that, then if your plants show a deficiency you can use a small amount of a one part fert, one that has pretty much everything plants need, and give that to correct a problem. Just a small amount. But chances are you won't have any problems at all. You want to read the fert container and make sure that you see words like Bacillus and Mycchorizae, or however it's spelled, as these are the biological parts that will break down ferts to a level that plants can absorb. You can try other ferts and I usually recommend Dynagrow as it has pretty much everything plants need, but what the containers for any fert don't usually do is tell you how often to feed. This is where a lot of people get into trouble. The powder fert method is just water and forget it, unless your plants show an obvious nutrient issue. You can pick any fert you want, but you need to know what you're doing with many of them. I'm wondering if anyone out there is using the powders with success since I've been posting it so much over the years. If you're in hydro, the powders won't work. You need a fert that is designed for hydro. There are two other brands that come to mind, but namedropping is frowned on here.

[Indimaniac]

Thats some great info buddy I appreciate it! Im actually usually pretty good with these issues and always get them resolved but this one just hasnt cleared up! Have you seen my journal for my current flowering girls? They have been great! You should check it out and let me know if u think its on point or if I have some issues theres a link in my sig:-)