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12-11-2012, 09:44 AM #1OPSenior Member
Hydro question on feeding
Have used FF soil in the past. Going to use Sunshine mix #4. I will be in veg and flower in 3 gallon pots. Growing 6 Liberty Haze under 1000w. I am totally unfamiar with where to go from there. I know that I should first use Calmag in the RO water. I will be using Foxfarms grow big for veg and big bloom for flower along with Tiger bloom. What kind of feeding schedule should I have? When using a soil less mix I would assume I need to fertilize every day when I water them. What would that look like? I also know that I should be checking Ph when I mix the ferts. Also, would I be checking EC and PPM or is that specifically for a "real" hydro grow where water is flowing. Any help is apreciated.
turksteelman Reviewed by turksteelman on . Hydro question on feeding Have used FF soil in the past. Going to use Sunshine mix #4. I will be in veg and flower in 3 gallon pots. Growing 6 Liberty Haze under 1000w. I am totally unfamiar with where to go from there. I know that I should first use Calmag in the RO water. I will be using Foxfarms grow big for veg and big bloom for flower along with Tiger bloom. What kind of feeding schedule should I have? When using a soil less mix I would assume I need to fertilize every day when I water them. What would that look Rating: 5
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12-12-2012, 05:48 PM #2Senior Member
Hydro question on feeding
Not sure you need to water every day. Are you sure Sunshine mix in a 3 gallon pot will dry out overnight?
I suggest nutrients one time, and ph'd water in between nutrient feedings. I would monitor wetness of medium before watering every day.
It might be a good idea to mix solution according to bottle directions. Then check ppm to see if it is a good strength for you. Most times merely following the directions on the bottles works fine.
ph at 5.8-6.0
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12-13-2012, 02:54 AM #3Senior Member
Hydro question on feeding
Originally Posted by turksteelman
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12-13-2012, 02:56 AM #4Senior Member
Hydro question on feeding
this is a hydro grow btw.
"Hydroponics is a subset of hydroculture and is a method of growing plants using mineral nutrient solutions, in water, without soil."
It make look like dirt to the average person but its not. It contains no nutrients for the plant to absorb. With my experience with sunshine mix, I would aim for a good 6.0-6.5 when it comes to ph. This allows the mycorhizzae to colonize and help your plant absorb nutrients. If you drop the ph too low you kill off those wonderful benies and render them useless.
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12-13-2012, 03:25 AM #5Senior Member
Hydro question on feeding
I did not think that Nitrogen was an ingredient in clamag; So I went to the Botanicare homesite. From the Botanicare website: Ingredients of calmag 2-0-0: Cal-Mag Plus contains: calcium, magnesium, iron, boron, zinc, manganese, molybdenum, copper, cobalt, iodine, beneficial vitamins, twenty essential amino acids and select botanical plant extracts.
To be honest; Now that I read all the ingredients. this is more of a Micro formula. IN the greenhouse we use Calcium Nitrate, and Magnesiuim sulphate, so I don't add Calcium and Magnesium to my custom Micro mix, but, this is
basically the same ingredients in most micro mixes.
My Micro ingredients are Chelated Manganese, Chelated Zinc, Boron, Molybdate, and Chelated Copper. Calcium and Magnesium are sipplied as mentioned above.
Still don't know where the 2% of Nitrogen comes from on the bottle label.
Anyway; I don't believe you would need to worry about that as long as you are lowering the amnount of part A or the Nitrogen in your mix, as you should be in flower.
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12-14-2012, 09:47 AM #6OPSenior Member
Hydro question on feeding
Thanks everyone. Went to the hydro store today and picked up an EC meter. I should be good to go once I wire my room.
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12-18-2012, 12:40 AM #7Member
Hydro question on feeding
Hey buddy, just caught my eye you're using Sunshine #4. Imo, it holds waaay too much water. Be wary of over-watering! I switched to Rainforest blend because it drains so well...
I've heard a million things about soil grows lol but this is what works for me. I fertilize every other day with half-strength nutrients, and give plain water the other days. I flush before transition (less stretch) and before taking cuttings. I use water only the last 10 days or so. Never have problems with nute burn, root rot, or soil chemistry if you are consistent and err on the side of 'less' when it comes to nutes.
If you're using RO water, don't worry about checking pH (IMOO!) because the nutrients are pH balanced and as soon as you add them the water takes on their value. If using tap water you will need pH down. I use tap water and pH my nutrient solution to 5.8. I wouldn't worry about TDS or EC at all.
p.s. use 5 gallon pots!Genesis 9:3
Every moving thing that liveth shall be meat for you; even as the green herb have I given you all things.
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01-01-2013, 10:14 PM #8Senior Member
Hydro question on feeding
I disagree with telling someone not to worry about TDS or EC. It is a very good idea to keep up with the strength of your run off in soil type grows. Not to mention that if you mix nutes you need to know how strong they are.
Also. Once in flower, never mix nutes 1/2 strength. If it were meant to be applied that way, the instructions would read that way. When I grow a soil type grow using a mix like foxfarm; I do not add nutrients in veg at all generally. I start to add nutrients when I change photperiod.
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01-05-2013, 11:01 AM #9OPSenior Member
Hydro question on feeding
Here's a question.... I ended up germing 10 Liberty Haze which are under a 400w MH thru veg. I then plan to use a 1000w HPS for flower. I was going to scrog but am thinking I may get in trouble with that many plants. The other option is to SOG them or just let them grow with some cutting. What would you do if you had this situation?
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01-07-2013, 10:54 PM #10Senior Member
Hydro question on feeding
Originally Posted by turksteelman
SCROG would still be a good option, because that is the point of SCROG. Tying down branches in order to all all budsites to get equal light.
How big is your space? how big is your screen?
Most times; When the main kola/stem gets too close to lamp; I actually work the stem between my thumb abd forefinger and basically break it down and lay it over at the height of all the secondary kolas or canopy. This allows all kolas to grow as big as the main, and does not hurt the plant at all. The bend will heal into a knuckle and the plant will thrive tremendously. Sometimes people accidentally break a stem, but it is hanging on. Well just prop it up or hang it for support, and watch the magic happen. If it is really bad break; Wrap it in gauze with some wet tea leaves inside on the main wound.
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