Are leaves this colour ok for young plants ?

[Weezard]

Good call on the moisture meters. they are worse than useless.
Good call on the re-potting as well.
Keep in mind that leaves are history, not real time.
That damage will not repair.
Watch the new growth for more current information.

As long as your soil is not pre-nuted, they should do OK now.

Almost didn't address your issue myself.
Because you did not fill out a troubleshooting form.

If you find, and fill out the form, people will flock to help.
Because it shows that you care enough, and they will have a better chance at a good diagnosis.

An added benefit is realized by filling the form.
For half the askers, the problem becomes obvious when all of your variable are on one page under your nose.
They fill out the form, read it, and think.
That's usually all it takes.:thumbsup:
If not, we do have some excellent growers here that will help you sort it out.

Reading everyt'ing you find in the first link on my signature will be time well spent if you are serious about growing great meds.

Aloha,
Weeze

[nibblebit]

Hi Weezard and thanks again

The soil does contain nutrients, it doesn't give a ratio on the bag but it says this :

" ... 50% peat-reduced potting compost with added nutrients and lime ... ideal medium for sowing and potting ... complete range of nutrients which will feed the plants for the first 4-5 weeks ... special wetting agent to ease re-wetting and moisture retention."

"This product contains wood fibre, a sustainable peat replacement ..."

Can't believe it doesn't have any ratio listed, and i've read all the small print on the bag.

I didn't know there was a troubleshooting form !

I've done a lot of reading (you should see my PDF collection !) but i will read what your sig links to.

If the yellow problem gets worse i will fill out a troubleshooting form, now i just have to wait and see how The Drowned One reacts to the repotting.


Thank you

[nibblebit]

OK lots to read there. I like the carbon dioxide idea with the sugar and yeast, but i suppose it's not really worth doing unless you can measure the CO2 content difference or see the difference in the results.

I ordered a humidifier which should arrive this week as my RH is always in the low 30's and i've read it should be 50-60.

Also ordered a small fan to be my wind simulator and strengthen the stems.

The Drowned One is looking a tiny bit better today, a little bit less curl in the leaves and a slightly darker shade of green :

Attachment 284067

With the little one, the yellow spots on the lowest two leaves seem to have lessened a bit :

Attachment 284068



Onward and upward !


Thanks,

nibs.

[Weezard]

OK lots to read there. I like the carbon dioxide idea with the sugar and yeast, but i suppose it's not really worth doing unless you can measure the CO2 content difference or see the difference in the results.

No need in veg.
And, of little use in flower at normal temperatures.

However, when inside temps are high, (>80F.), CO2 can, and does push growth.
Tip: Costco fruit juice contains no preservatives. It is pasteurized
Add some sugar and a packet of D47 champagne yeast. (Bread yeast tastes too yeasty)
A cotton ball stopper to keep out wild yeast and bacteria and you have a slow n steady CO2 generator.
A one gallon jug will nicely supplement for a 3' X 3' cabinet.
Added bonus?
In about a month, you will have a gallon of half-way decent wine.

I ordered a humidifier which should arrive this week as my RH is always in the low 30's and i've read it should be 50-60.

Also ordered a small fan to be my wind simulator and strengthen the stems.

The Drowned One is looking a tiny bit better today, a little bit less curl in the leaves and a slightly darker shade of green :

.

"ideal medium for sowing and potting"

That tells you what you need to know.
Thanks for the update, they are on the road to wellville.
What kine light are you using?
Type? distance, duration?

Grow on
Weeze

[nibblebit]

Hi.

It's a 250w CFL 2700k plug and grow. i have the lowryders on 18/6 all the way, it's 19,500 lumens.

Distance is 8 inches because otherwise heat is too much, i will get a fan to combat this and bring light closer.

I can't find the sick plant report section but i'll keep looking.

Have attached photos of the yellow-leaved one, your suggestion sounds likely, that after bening drowned and then repotted in prenuted soil she is now getting too many nutes, but i know nothing !

Here are pics :

Attachment 284128Attachment 284129Attachment 284130
Attachment 284131Attachment 284132

[nibblebit]

Found the sickness form !

Indoor grow, wooden cabinet 2x2ft at floor/ceiling and 3ft walls.
Soil (potting compost, prenuted)
UK soil from B&Q
Soil pH 7 or 8 not sure about this meter.
Tap water (London)pH is 7 or 8 unsure of meter.
Plant is 22 days old
No nutes yet.
250w plug and grow 2700k CFL, on 18/6 schedule, 8 inches from canopy.
Day temps are 27/28c, night temps are 21/22c
Day humidity is ~30, night humidity is ~40.
Light schedule is 18/6 all the way
I have 2 120mm extractor fans and one 120mm intake fan and one fan blowing on the plants.
No pH correction has been done.


Thanks,

nis.

[nibblebit]

Just had a thought, since, out of the two plants, the initially worst yellowing was on the one that got drowned, the undrowned (or less drowned !) plant had fewer yellow leaves and they've gone now, maybe it's chlorine toxicity ?

I'll find out how long it takes chlorine to outgas then leave my plant water standing in future.

*** EDIT ADD ***

Just read on an aquarium forum that chlorine will outgas after 24 hours but chloramine won't.

Did some further digging and found that tap water in the UK, US and Canada is chloraminated.

So i've sourced a dechlorinator which also gets rid of chloramine, just have to check it won't screw with the water in other ways !


Cheers,

nibs.

[Weezard]

Good job!

You can quit worrying about chloramine.
For plants, even tiny seedlings, it's a non-issue.

The chloramine can kill tropical fish but it's actually beneficial for plants.
It kills bacteria and molds.

Did a side by side cloning experiment with rainwater vs. un-treated tap water with high levels of Halomethanes, chloramine, etc.

The too-pure rainwater sucked the life out of the cuttings by osmosis and left them open to infection.
The tapwater cuttings stayed healthy, rooted 2 days faster and all survived.
Lost half of the rainwater cuts and the rest were limping.

In short, if my tapwater did not have chloramine/chlorine, I'd have to add some.

Got a friend in California on well water.
He has to add bleach to his hydro tanks to keep his girls healthy.

The whole Chlorine scare is promoted by the same folks that sell overpriced reverse osmosis setups.
Go figure, yah?

With water, it's all about PH.

Aloha, and keep readin'

Weeze

[nibblebit]

Thanks again Weeze

I can stop looking up the ingredients of dechlorinators now !

I ordered PH kits for water and soil so i should have those figures next week (shoulda had them at the start !).

I want to move the light closer to the plants but the heat increase is mad.

Right now the crowns are 10" below the bottom of the light, i balance the thermo/hygrometer across the plant pots so it's at (or just below) their crown-level and the temperature is 32 celsius, 90 farenheit ! And the humidity is 25%.

If i touch the CFL after a few hours use, it is ok to touch on the underside but too hot to touch for long at the top.

I'm thinking either a fan to blow over the light or maybe a glass sheet between the light and the plants, i've just realised I'M RAMBLING !

Ooops ! Went off-topic there ! So easy to just start writing down all your thoughts in these posts.

OK thanks again,

nibs

[nibblebit]

Gave the girlies their first water for a week last night (morning for them) and they have perked up nicely.

Attachment 284174

Attachment 284175


Thanks Weezard for rescuing me


nibs.