Sorry I missed this one GNX.
Prolly lost a notification in one of the many crashes.
I'm sure you've sorted it out by now and I'm keen to know what you went with.

Quote Originally Posted by gnx
Weezard! Youā??re a God sendā?¦ I too have been to numerous forums that pertains to our passion for DIY. Honestly thoā?¦.I am out of my intelligence perimeter when it comes to LEDā??s. The funny thing is i grew up in the walls of radio shack literally and I still canā??t grasp the Lingo. Anyhow, I like a couple other members have been talking to China Mainland through Alibaba.com/ I have found a Reputable Company who will build anything that There Technology will allow. Last time I spoke with them I was using outdated NASA specā??s for wavelengths and my own ignorance. Now, from this Forum that I humbly respect, I seem to be able to ascertain some true and accurate current info. I will leave the terminology to the engineers so if you could simplify the terms to my level I will appreciate very much so. So with this in mind this is my projected unitā??s specs. For a room thatā??s 4ftx4ftx7ft
1) I am not sure what my total wattage should be? 200w?

Should be enough for some fat buds.

2) I should be able to mimic sunrise and sunset with a dimmer and switches to control the lines which in return should control the intensity, right?

Should be.
Not sure it will make much difference except for the 730nm. deep red.
Even then, I doubt the ROI is worth the extra complexity.
I do like the idea of timers kicking in the dimmers.

3) What type of bulbs and are 5w bulbs the way to go? What type should I request to use? Bridge lux,Edison,epstar,cree,etc.

Ask KNNA

4) what degree should the lenses for the LEDā??s be?

Depends on the grow area, but I like 90 degree lenses as a compromise.

5) Could you tell me what the beneficiary of using 5w bulbs instead 1wx5 is? From what I have read and researched which we both know is lack of information on my part, but it seems 1wx5 would give more lumens than 1x5w.

Quite simply, ease of construction and a point-source effect that increases penetration.
1W. X 5 is more efficient, because the 1W. emitters are more efficient.
But, I weighed the cost and difficulty of assembly and decided to spend the electric on the 5W. emitters.
That and I had tried building arrays from hundreds of 5 mm. leds.
Then built a 300 LED array from 10 mm. leds.
It was a bear!
Added up to a li'l under 15W. all-together.
So, I solder 2 wires to a 15W. emitter and what's the cost?
Could be as high as 10% more power use for the same amount of concentrated photons.
BFD!
And testing my 56W. light that uses 3W. chips against my 55W light that used 5W. chips. was an eye opener.
3W chips are more efficient, but the 5W. chips grew bigger bushes!

That's why I use the even less efficient 15W. Ledengin emitters in my last light.
It's kicking ass on 3' tall Jack Herrers.
Grows 'em like a 400W. HPS

For 150W. array, with 10 mm. leds I would have had to solder >6,000 connections and grow very short plants.

6) Red, 660 nm and Blue 460nm are the only wavelengths you need for optimal growing?

So far.:thumbsup:

Weezard, Thank you so much for your interest. I told myself I would not use another UFO again and Iā??m just about ready to start a new grow, so could you also tell me what the best approach using LEDā??S seedlings is. I noticed I has some serious stretching that occurred when using the 90w ufo same spec has my current 120w Ufo tri-band red, 660nm,blue 455nm and orange 630nm with 7.1.1 ratio.

Best approach?
More blue!
7:1 will stretch them to death.
Your R:B for seedlings should be closer to 3:1.
More blue = tighter internodes.

Overall Iā??m content with my results but I know there is a lot more to uncover using Digital lighting. Thank you for your attention in this matter of mine
Then go to 5:1 for flowering and you'll be even more content.

Just passing on what I found effective with Jack Herrer.
It loves led light. Some strains do not.

Aloha,
Weezard