I have two DIY LED lamps that I am experimenting with. An all white one posted in another thread and this bi-color update to my first DIY LED.

Originally it was a 20 watt (2 * 10w) 465nm seedling & veg lamp and I just finished adding 24 watts (8 X 3 watts) of deep red 660nm and 24 watts (8 X 3 watts) of royal blue 445nm.

It is impossible to compare the brightness by eye alone because of the differing spectrums, LED wattages and spacing, but I would wager my 68w passive cooled is easily a match for the 120w 3 fan, active-cooled commercial unit. Of course, the camera does not do either light justice.

Obvoiusly on fit and finish, the commerical light is a winner, but mine is a working prototype not finished goods for resale. The dirt and shmutz on the rails is because the LEDs are attached with double-sided sticky thermal tape. Inexpensive and convenient, but every piece of dust and dirt around sticks like flypaper. Next time I will probably use another method just for a nicer appearance. The main case is steel and from an early optical drive case. The rails are aluminum and cut from the headrail on some old vertical blinds. Sometimes you have to get creative and use what you have lying around.

The main case gets warm, but not hot; half the heat comes from the three LED drivers. The rails run quite cool.

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RackitMan Reviewed by RackitMan on . RM's Bicolor DIY LED lamp vs a Commerical unit I have two DIY LED lamps that I am experimenting with. An all white one posted in another thread and this bi-color update to my first DIY LED. Originally it was a 20 watt (2 * 10w) 465nm seedling & veg lamp and I just finished adding 24 watts (8 X 3 watts) of deep red 660nm and 24 watts (8 X 3 watts) of royal blue 445nm. It is impossible to compare the brightness by eye alone because of the differing spectrums, LED wattages and spacing, but I would wager my 68w passive cooled is easily Rating: 5