@macnasty; I forgot to mention another advantage to (some) windowless units. They have a dedicated dehumidifier setting. When we first started that room we had a humidity problem from water comming thru the floor, we'd run that thing just to get the water dried up many times.

@TankJR; I knew you were not picking (nit-picking?) on me, just wanted you to realize that I understood more went into sizing an AC then just the lights. BTW you are correct about BTUs, they are not created equal. A windowless 12k will compete with a 10k window unit which will compete with a 8k split system.

@Rusty; I got to give you credit for all the help you provide, especially in the plant problem department. I think I have to look into starting the ball rolling on Sainthood for you. I know I'm familar with your "dealing with heat issues" thread, I hope mini-mac reads it too. Good point about sizing the AC larger, it truly is more energy efficent that way.

For everyone: As good as AC's are at cooling don't overlook chillers.

IMHO a well designed chiller system is more energy efficent then AC.
[I can hear the keyboards starting up now]

OM :jointsmile:
oldmac Reviewed by oldmac on . Air Conditioning Unit Help Hi. Does this work: 10,000 BTU portable a/c unit, cooling a 1000W HPS in a 4' x 6' x 8' room (192 cubic feet), exhausting air 20' UP through the attic and out the roof. The unit's exhaust is roughly 250 CFM. If this doesn't work, could someone give me suggestions on how to make it work? For example, what size a/c unit would work? Or, could I 'assist' the unit by installing an inline fan half way up the ducting, at around 10'? The problem with this latter solution is I don't know how to Rating: 5