suggestions for hard water problem

[littlemountain]

when I started my indoor grow I was using collected rain water, no problem- Since the winter has been very cold and containors stay frozen I have had to use well water that is hard, and it has caused some problems, of course. what is the simplest and cheapest way to soften water, research I have done suggest I need a RO system, which is cheapest. I have also seen those magnetic devices that attach to ingoing supply line, start around $180 help me resolve this issue :thumbsup:

littlemountain Reviewed by littlemountain on 02-07-2011. suggestions for hard water problem when I started my indoor grow I was using collected rain water, no problem- Since the winter has been very cold and containors stay frozen I have had to use well water that is hard, and it has caused some problems, of course. what is the simplest and cheapest way to soften water, research I have done suggest I need a RO system, which is cheapest. I have also seen those magnetic devices that attach to ingoing supply line, start around $180 help me resolve this issue :thumbsup: Rating: 5

[waterdog]

when I started my indoor grow I was using collected rain water, no problem- Since the winter has been very cold and containors stay frozen I have had to use well water that is hard, and it has caused some problems, of course. what is the simplest and cheapest way to soften water, research I have done suggest I need a RO system, which is cheapest. I have also seen those magnetic devices that attach to ingoing supply line, start around $180 help me resolve this issue :thumbsup:

If you REALLy believe a magnet will work then go for it .A waste of time and money.
I would haul water or have it delivered.
Hard water makes it a tough grow. Good luck !!!!

[WashougalWonder]

Well if it is a temporary thing, go get those 5 gal bottles of drinking water.

BUT ..... RO and I assume distilled water, have NO minerals in them and you will need to replace the micronutrients if using long term. Particularly calcium and magnesium which work together. Simple unsulphered molasses 1 tsp per gal will resolve that.

[Rusty Trichome]

What's the problem with your wellwater? In my experience...(my wellwater comes out of the tap at 7.9 ph, from a calcium/magnesium aquafir) if it's drinkable, it's fine for cannabis if ph is adjusted to within range. I use phDown (phosphoric acid) to lower the ph, but getting overly anal about water purity get's unnecessarily expensive if in soil. (do you worry about the purity of the dirt in your potting soil...? :wtf: )

Rainwater is usually acidic, and has whatever contaminates it has picked-up as it travels twords your region including industrial wastes, heavy metals, toxins and such.

The major problems I have with R/O, is the initial cost, the yearly filters, and the need to purchase additional nutrients to replace what's been removed. One gallon of phDown lasts me about a year and a half to two years. Much cheaper to adjust ph than to sterilize the water and have to replace what you've removed.

Avoid snake-oil remedies.

[littlemountain]

What's the problem with your wellwater? In my experience...(my wellwater comes out of the tap at 7.9 ph, from a calcium/magnesium aquafir) if it's drinkable, it's fine for cannabis if ph is adjusted to within range. I use phDown (phosphoric acid) to lower the ph, but getting overly anal about water purity get's unnecessarily expensive if in soil. (do you worry about the purity of the dirt in your potting soil...? :wtf: )

Rainwater is usually acidic, and has whatever contaminates it has picked-up as it travels twords your region including industrial wastes, heavy metals, toxins and such.

The major problems I have with R/O, is the initial cost, the yearly filters, and the need to purchase additional nutrients to replace what's been removed. One gallon of phDown lasts me about a year and a half to two years. Much cheaper to adjust ph than to sterilize the water and have to replace what you've removed.

Avoid snake-oil remedies.

Rust T, Thanks, so all I have to do is PH down and that will balance my hardness to a usable range ? Does that remove the excess mag and calcium that causes scale ? Using well water will make things easier on me for sure :thumbsup:

[WashougalWonder]

adjusting pH only compensates for what is already there, has no 'removal' effect. I agree with Rusty completely, he is much more articulate than I, and I learned the hard way about acid rain.

[waterdog]

adjusting pH only compensates for what is already there, has no 'removal' effect. I agree with Rusty completely, he is much more articulate than I, and I learned the hard way about acid rain.

Rusty for President !:jointsmile:

[Rusty Trichome]

I think that unless the water is undrinkable, it's well worth the effort to at least try to make your canna-life cheaper and easier. Some have an anal view on water parameters, but I'm not one of those prople. Especially from aquafirs used for drinking water. Only thing I'd alter is the ph.

Heck...most treated tapwater is fine as long as you can outgas the chlorine. (when from municipal water treatment plants)

Also...for those in soil who are interested, aerating the water before watering your plants (in soil)...is dopey. Mixing the nutrients in the resevoir just prior to use is a great and necessary idea, but somehow this hydro technique spread to include the necessity of aerating the water. But in a soil grow...when you water or feed...the water 'draws-down' the air as it moves through the soil. (via suction) If you listen carefully after watering, you can hear the suction.

And don't water with cold water if you can help it. Warm water is best.

I don't do political correctness at all. Doubtful I'd make a good president, but thanks for the thought...:thumbsup:

[waterdog]

Grow club President ???

[littlemountain]

I think that unless the water is undrinkable, it's well worth the effort to at least try to make your canna-life cheaper and easier. Some have an anal view on water parameters, but I'm not one of those prople. Especially from aquafirs used for drinking water. Only thing I'd alter is the ph.

Heck...most treated tapwater is fine as long as you can outgas the chlorine. (when from municipal water treatment plants)

Also...for those in soil who are interested, aerating the water before watering your plants (in soil)...is dopey. Mixing the nutrients in the resevoir just prior to use is a great and necessary idea, but somehow this hydro technique spread to include the necessity of aerating the water. But in a soil grow...when you water or feed...the water 'draws-down' the air as it moves through the soil. (via suction) If you listen carefully after watering, you can hear the suction.

And don't water with cold water if you can help it. Warm water is best.

I don't do political correctness at all. Doubtful I'd make a good president, but thanks for the thought...:thumbsup:

I appreciate your insight in this matter. My well runs 7.5 to 7.7 and I adjust to 6.6 and my run off is 6.8 . So my hardness being over 300 ppm will cause no problems and I shouldn't have to do anything other then I have ?