Quote Originally Posted by Bobyvila
I tried to raise the acid of the soil from 6.7 to 6.0 because the plant had small yellowing on the lower leaves.
6.7 is fine in peat-based soils. 6.0 is a bit low. Will cover that later...

Quote Originally Posted by Bobyvila
I tried to lower it by adding coffee grinds.
BAD idea to add anything that hasn't been composted. Organics tend to rot in the pots when not composted.

Quote Originally Posted by Bobyvila
STUPID after that a day or two later The lower leaves began yellowing, its been a week now and for the past two days has move up the plant and has gotten much worse. I flushed the plant two days ago and tried to get rid of the coffee grinds. The PH eve hasnt changed from 6.7. The containters are kinda tiny so I might have root binding I also airated the soil yesterday after doing some research. Last week I had tied the outside buds away from the stem to allow more light to access the center. Maybe that is my problem.
Wow. Mind me asking where you are getting these "helpful" tips?
Aerated the soil...? Normal watering does that every time you water. (draws-down the fresh air via suction)
Here, you say ph is at 6.7, but below you mention N/A for ph. Which is it, and what are you using to get a test result of 6.7?

Quote Originally Posted by Bobyvila
.7) Specific brand and type of soil,
Miracle grow potting soil with an inch or two of Fafard organics patting mix to replace after fushing
Fafards is buffered to between 5.5 and 6.0, per their website. (a tad too low)
Quote Originally Posted by Bobyvila
.8) Size of container.
8' roud X 7" deep
About 2 gallons. A tad small, but should be fine for a CFL grow. Likely more rootbound than is optimal, but not a complete disaster. (yet)

Quote Originally Posted by Bobyvila
10) Source of water?
Tap let to sit for 2 days, Ph unknown
11) Method of checking water ph. NA
12) Method of adjusting water ph. Na
Yes, it does apply, but if you don't know...you'll want to find out. Check online for your local water companies Water Quality Report, which will show average ph and what's in it...then save for a ph pen or at least a freshwater aquarium ph test kit. ($7.00 or so) I've never seen a soil ph probe I didn't throw away. Ingoing water for peat-based mediums should have a ph between 6.3ish and 6.8ish.

Quote Originally Posted by Bobyvila
13) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle.
General hydroponics: Flora micro, bloom, and gro.. I used half specified dose per 1 galon water
How long have the plants been in the MG soil? If it's the 6 month formula, half-doses of nutrients might still be too much. If it's the 3 month formula, half doses might be fine over the long-haul. Regardless, your soil buffers (lime) is likely been depleted, as you are showing signs of your ph taking a dive. (yellowing, lockout, the "claw"...) You might want to find a way to raise your ingoing water ph to adjust for this.
Allow soil to dry between treatments, feedings, waterings. Root rot comes fast and hard.
Might want to think of a calcium and magnesium source for mid to late flowering. I use unsulfered molasses at 1 tsp per gallon of properly ph'd water, once a week. (replaces CalMag Plus)

Quit over-correcting and wait for solid advise. This coffee grounds and mixing different soils stuff is a bad idea for container gardening.

I had to "un-ignore" to read Tevfik's reply. I should have left him on ignore. His insight is uninspiring and wrong, in my opinion.