Im loosing her, please help

[polishpollack]

I'm inclined to agree with Tevfik. Those pots are to small for plants that size. Funny that tevfik says "no nute def" but then says to give more nutes, though. More soil is required and I believe more fert is too. Plants continue to grow in flower and need Nitrogen, even if in small amounts.

polishpollack Reviewed by polishpollack on 01-11-2011. Im loosing her, please help Hi everybody thanks for checking in and trying to help with my little problem. I started three little seeds in the ending of october that I got from some friends. Everything was going fine I started off with 4 CFL's @ 27w each I had this set up for one month. I then upgraded to 2 CFL's @68w each and 2 of the 27w and have had this set up from the beginning of December till present. I feand watered regularly and untill recently all was fine. I recently picked up a soil PH tester and have a liquid Rating: 5

[tevfik]

Funny that tevfik says "no nute def" but then says to give more nutes, though

I meant there is no over fertilizing. I should use my dictionary more often

[Bobyvila]

6.7 is fine in peat-based soils. 6.0 is a bit low. Will cover that later...

BAD idea to add anything that hasn't been composted. Organics tend to rot in the pots when not composted.

Thanks and your right, I didnt know 6.0 was to low untill checking out the charts here. I was told and shown a high times article that says optimal PH zone for MJ is 5.7 to 6.5. Which is why I tryed lowering my PH. Ill include a pic of the hight times chart

I didnt know about the composting thing. Thats very helpfull to know and will save me trouble later on in life thanks

Wow. Mind me asking where you are getting these "helpful" tips?
Aerated the soil...? Normal watering does that every time you water. (draws-down the fresh air via suction)
Here, you say ph is at 6.7, but below you mention N/A for ph. Which is it, and what are you using to get a test result of 6.7?

I actually searched this site and read a tun of "yellowing" threads. Im not sure which thread it was but airating was recomended if the plants coudnt be re-poted. I figured it was nothing that would harm the plant so I gave it a try. There were tuns of other recomendations as im sure you know but with out a liquid Ph tester I didnt want to do anything that was drastic. (obviously I had that revalation after the coffee incident lol)
I used a rapitest from e bay, so i figure it will only work for another month or so. I did order a pen for liquid testing but its still in route. So for now I can ony test the soil, which has constantly been at 6.7

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobyvila
.7) Specific brand and type of soil,
Miracle grow potting soil with an inch or two of Fafard organics patting mix to replace after fushing

Fafards is buffered to between 5.5 and 6.0, per their website. (a tad too low)

I didnt know that it was so low. I actually wouldnt have used it if had known but it was the only organic soil in the store. I see that you are against mixing soil so ill pick up more MG 6 month to keep it steady, well keep it steadyer..

How long have the plants been in the MG soil? If it's the 6 month formula, half-doses of nutrients might still be too much. If it's the 3 month formula, half doses might be fine over the long-haul. Regardless, your soil buffers (lime) is likely been depleted, as you are showing signs of your ph taking a dive. (yellowing, lockout, the "claw"...) You might want to find a way to raise your ingoing water ph to adjust for this.
Might want to think of a calcium and magnesium source for mid to late flowering. I use unsulfered molasses at 1 tsp per gallon of properly ph'd water, once a week. (replaces CalMag Plus)

The plants have been in the MG soil for there entire life, which is over 2 months. I believe 10 weeks. I used MG 6 month mix, not the 3. Once I get the liquid ph tester I can get the results out to you. I will start looking in to a calcium and mgnesiun source too.

Allow soil to dry between treatments, feedings, waterings. Root rot comes fast and hard.

I allow the top inch or two to dry before any waterings. I've only heard about root rot and am trying to stay clear of it. The combination of the small pots and my allowing the plants to fully dry between waterings might be aiding any deficiencies.

then save for a ph pen or at least a freshwater aquarium ph test kit. ($7.00 or so) I've never seen a soil ph probe I didn't throw away

Im going to head over to the locall pet store and pick one up. I didnt think about purchasing one from there, now I wont have to wait for the other one to ship. Ill have to tap in to the college fund though, ill consider it a rainy day lol.
I find it funny that you throw away your probs, I actually hold them in the same respect especially since it was an ebay buy. I dont trust it completely but it has been giving my consistent values. what else do you recommend to check the soil?

Quit over-correcting and wait for solid advise. This coffee grounds and mixing different soils stuff is a bad idea for container gardening.

Ya the coffee grind thing was from my grandfather and his tomatoes, I was just using the resources I had available before I joined this site. Dont think that im running around all confused waving my arms changing eveything. Im listening to everyone equally and waiting to see what happenes after the re-potting. The aerating was just a bandaid fix. Im hoping its just the pot size, we will see. I do appreciate your advice!

Yes, once you repot you'll be fine. You can go like this but all the leaves will be yellow soon if you stay in that pot.
You don't need to worry about other things what most of the others saying here. There is no nutrient deficiency, there is no PH issue. Your plant is starving. Start feeding her, get new pots asap.
After all you'll be fine.

Try to find out those flower and bloom nutes schedule. Some bloom nutrients only recommended after 5-6 weeks of flowering.

I have the pots im just going to pick up some new soil. I see that the Fafard has too low of a Ph level so I dont want to use it. I started with MG so it might be fine to finish with. Im hoping that since its the 6 month mix it will also help out to continue with my no nute def! Thanks


-First pic the high times article which made me try to lower my PH,
-Second pic is current. Last pic before re-potting

[tevfik]

For the charts check this and the next post: http://boards.cannabis.com/plant-pro...ml#post1805695

[Rusty Trichome]

I didnt know about the composting thing. Thats very helpfull to know and will save me trouble later on in life thanks

Fine for outdoor gardening, bad for container gardening. Same goes for egg shells, table scraps, dead fish...

I find it funny that you throw away your probs, I actually hold them in the same respect especially since it was an ebay buy. I dont trust it completely but it has been giving my consistent values. what else do you recommend to check the soil?

I know a couple of gardeners onsite that use 'em, but I've never had one that does anything other than tell when the soil is wet (acidic) or when it's dry. (alkaline) I've only had 3 in my life, none were worth a damn.
You can get around having to test the soil by using the ph pen. Know your ingoing ph, then test the runoff ph. If the numbers are the same, (or within a couple of decimal points) your soil is fine. If your soil ph is dropping, you know the lime in the soil is likely fading. If the ph comes out higher...you're adding, or have added, something to make that increase happen. But if the runoff is still in-range, don't sweat it.
MG soil is usually a tad low for my likes, and has become a bit inconsistent. I e-mailed 'em about the differences, and was told that they buffer to between 5.5 and 7.5. It used to be a tighter range, (it's what I learned to grow cannabis with) but that has changed.

The aerating was just a bandaid fix. Im hoping its just the pot size, we will see.

Let the soil dry, and carefully pop the rootball out. If rootbound, all you'll see is...roots. (little or no soil visible) Give yourself room to do this, as the branches will be vulnerable to tabletops, trash can edges...

I do appreciate your advice!

Some do, some don't. But thanks. (or you're welcome...) :thumbsup:

I see that the Fafard has too low of a Ph level so I dont want to use it. I started with MG so it might be fine to finish with. Im hoping that since its the 6 month mix it will also help out to continue with my no nute def! Thanks

Most any medium you use, you will have to learn it's quirks and needs.
You can compensate (by a couple of decimal points of ph) by raising the ingoing ph to the high side. Most any medium can be adjusted to suit your needs, but some need more than just raising the ingoing liquid ph. Fafards isn't the worst choice. I guarantee a lot of gardeners would prefer it to the MG, but MG has an undeserved bad rap, IMHO.

[Bobyvila]

Let the soil dry, and carefully pop the rootball out. If rootbound, all you'll see is...roots. (little or no soil visible) Give yourself room to do this, as the branches will be vulnerable to tabletops, trash can edges...

Ill take a picture to give you a look at whats going on under there I have the whole floor and plan on being gentle

For the charts check this and the next post: http://boards.cannabis.com/plant-pro...ml#post1805695

Ok im ready to swap pots I went and got the same MG soil. It turns out to be the 3 month brand and not the 6. So even less neutrients than thought.
I picked up a freshwater Ph tester too. Its a "wardley" and with my good eye I got 6.4 for my freshwater PH. Im going to change the pots now and have a major question. With the new MG soil should I continue with a half feed or go with a full dosage. This will be my last feed cycle too.

Ya the chart from high times trew me off big time, but you guys got me pointed in the right direction now.

[Rusty Trichome]

Sure wish you had come in sooner. Kinda late to be making these changes...but ya gotta do what ya gotta do, and it'll be a good learning experience.

Nothing but plain, properly ph'd water till she recovers from the transplant. Let soil dry between waterings. Her new growth will tell you how she's doing. Old, yellowed leaves are old news, and won't recover much vigor or color.

Did you already transplant? If so, according to Miracle Grow, there will be an initial release of nitrogen. IMHO, the best way to deal with that for flowering is a good, (at least a gallon of water for every gallon of pot size) and slow flush with properly ph'd water. This is an attempt to wash-away that initial kick. There will be a little stress from the transplant and the new (fresh) nutrients. After the initial release, it's a quazi-balanced nutrient delivery with every watering. Watch for reaction before offering any more nutrients, and likely she's far enough along that you shouldn't need more nutrients. Perhaps some unsulfered molasses at one teaspoon per gallon per week.

If you haven't transplanted yet, you can flush the MG soil prior to use. But then you get to play with goopy, clumpy, sticky soil for the transplant.

Your plants should let you know if they want more flowering nutrients. If you aren't sure, ask here first. Most likely you won't need to feed her again. :thumbsup:

I'm guessing that Wardley is a color-coded test kit...? Most color-coded test kits are accurate enough for clear liquids, but keep in mind that tinted water skews the results.

[Bobyvila]

keep in mind that tinted water skews the results.

Dammit :wtf:

I actually just finised the transplant. They are in 9x 10's now. The roots were fairly circled at the bottom of the pots. There was dirt ide say 60% white 40% soil. I had two pictures but my phone deleted them.

If i havent changed the ph of my plain water yet, is it ok to make this flush with it?

This is the new pot,

[Bobyvila]

I just checked the Ph of a new bottle of Poland Spring with my trusty Wardley compared it to my tap water. The poland sping is a little bit lighter at 6.3 the tap (which is kinda brown..ish) is darker at 6.4.

I think im going to flush with the tap like i've done before without altering its PH..

[Rusty Trichome]

Are you refering to the color-coded results, or is your tap water brownish out of the tap...? :wtf:

Both ph numbers are low, but still in range. I'd go with the tap water though. Cheaper and easier.

Good luck. :thumbsup: