Quote Originally Posted by OaklandCA420
Your Equipment:
.1) Type and wattage of lights. CFL's, 5000k for veg. now using 2700k for flowering, i now have 6 over the top of plants (2 over each) and 3 on the sides.
.2) Distance from tops? About 4 inches
.3) Reflector type? White walls, plus mylar surrounding plants
.4) Is there a consistent fresh air supply? fan on 24/7. not directly on plants,
.5) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan? just circulation
.6) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule? 100 watt cfls, 2700 kelvin, 12/12 schedule.
More lighting would definatelly benefit 'em. Maximum distance for effective light from a CFL is 6 inches or so. This includes the distance from the bulb, off the wall(s) or reflector(s) and back to the plant.

Quote Originally Posted by OaklandCA420
Your medium:
.7) Specific brand and type of soil, mg for vegetables and flowers, added perlite. (nutrients in soil are gone now)
.8) Size of container. about 3 gallon pots
.9) Did you use peat pucks (or similar) to root clones or germinate seedlings? no.
Your nutrients and water:
10) Source of water? (tap, bottled or filtered) What's it's ph before adjusting? 7.0 before adjusting, tap water left out for 48 hours.
11) Method of checking water ph. color test kit
12) Method of adjusting water ph. ph up and down solutions.
So you are in MG planting mix? (for veggies and flowers) I'm not at all sure what the MG Veggie mix is buffered to, but usually outdoor ammendments and mulches are buffered lower than potting soil. Plus, if you've already burned-through the nutrients in the soil, the ph buffers might be fading as well. (ph takes a dive when the buffers fade away)

7.0 before adjusting or adding nutrients is fine, and shouldn't need adjusting further.

Once you add nutrients or additives, the tinting will skew ph test results. Are you using the color-coded drops to test runoff? If so, your numbers are likely off.
Quote Originally Posted by OaklandCA420
13) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle. i was using jacks classics all purpose 20-20-20 but now using jacks classics blossom booster 10-30-20
14) How often are you watering between feedings, and how much per watering? usually 3-4 days. i use 2 and a half cups of water for each plant.
15) Any additives or tea's? superthrive, havnt used much.
16) Are your ph levels stable, or do they fluctuate? fluctuate
17) What is your ingoing water's ph? ...your runoff ph? ingoing: 7.0, runoff: 6.0, although i have given the plants ph up the past couple times, havnt tested runoff in about 2 weeks.
18) Do you foliar feed? just tried it once, but it made little holes in my leaves so i stopped.
Regarding the Jacks Bloom stuff...What does the directions say about how much per galon, and every how often?
How much are you giving them and how often?

3 gallon pots, and only two cups of water every few days...? Waaaay underwatering. In my 3 gallon pots, I add a quart a day in the summer, a quart every few days in the winter. You have to make sure you're getting moisture to the lower root zones, without keeping them saturated.
Underwatering keeps every bit of the excess nutrients in the pot, and can cause build-up problems. (salt build-up)
I'd flush well right now with properly ph'd water, (7.0 tapwater is fine) and find a better schedule.
On feeding days I try not to allow runoff. But on watering days I'll make sure to get a little bit of runoff. Not much, but enough to assure a little bit or 'rinsing' of the soil, and to make sure water and nutrients get to the bottom root zone.
With non-organic nutrients, I recommend a mmnthly 'maintenance' flush. 1 or 2 times the volume of the pot.
Keep a fan on 'em. Strengthens the stems, and forces fresh air across the plant. Plants love fresh air. Proper ventilation is important for just that reason, too. Hot, stale air isn't beneficial.