The attachment feature comes after a crertain number of posts. Can't remember how many though.

I'd cut back to the base nutrients, and perhaps if opened already, the bottle of micronutrients and a bottle of the calcium/magnesium additive. If you can return them, unsulphered molasses works in their place. (both of 'em)
Perhaps I'd keep the bloom booster, but I'd have to know what was in it before deciding. Some of 'em can be tricky to work with, and can easily be overused.

Too much humic acid kills, and an overloading of beneficial bacteria is not beneficial at all.

Soil probes would be ok if they didn't suck so bad. Not worth the investment if you have a ph pen. You can easily check runoff ph, which is all you wold need the soil probe for anyway. Ph matters greatly. Keep it in range, or lock out nutrients. This includes between-feeding waterings. The lime (a ph buffer) in the potting mix will eventually run-out, so getting into the habit of keeping water in range is a good habit to get into.

Not knowing the product line, I couldn't venture to offer a working schedule. But I'd compare the bottle directions with the online regimen, and see if there is a difference. Often, the weekly dosage on the bottle is given as a stand-alone nutrient...and not part of the whole regimen. Or not.

Waiting for someone to come along and offer a schedule might take a while unless you start another thread asking for the instructions in the title.

Plain old properly ph'd water has never failed me for a flush. No additives necessary for that task.

"Organic" is a marketing tool. Nothing more, nothing less. Plainly put..."organic" chemical compounds are chemical compounds. Period. Same effects on the plants, and same runoff effects on the enviornment. But they get the label, and charge you more for the same compounds. Same goes with organic checkens, organic beef, organic eggs, organic ammonia...