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09-25-2010, 01:28 PM #11Senior Member
Plz help me, dont know whats wrong ( 1st timer)
Your light is fine. I was just making sure it wasn't an old mercury vapor light, which put-out more heat than usable lumens.
Assassinating your plants now is up to you. But I always recommend one take their plants as far as possible, since success and failure can both be a learning experience, and if they're still alive, they may pull through and be the best thing you've ever smoked.
It'll be up to you to find a happy balance of waterings and feedings though. Every growroom is different, as are the strains, the tapwater, the nutrients, additives, lights/distances/lumens, heat/cold/humidity...but as you read through the growlogs, you will start to see what other's are doing, when they are doing it and why they are doing it. Find a successful growlog, and ask questions if confused.
Try to keep it simple though. Don't go out and buy hundreds of dollars worth of additives, until you learn how to use the basics. Usually you'll find the additives are 'snake oil' crap anyway.
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09-25-2010, 02:33 PM #12OPJunior Member
Plz help me, dont know whats wrong ( 1st timer)
OK, i tried to fill out as good as possible :P
What is your experience level? (novice )
Your Equipment:
.1) Type and wattage of lights. (HPS 400w )
.2) Distance from tops? (15 iches or they burn)
.3) Reflector type? (enclosed reflector )
.4) Is there a consistent fresh air supply? (yes )
.5) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan? no, window and door open at all times)
.6) What are the bulb wattages ( 400w, Color Temperature-K: 2100)
Your medium:
.7) Specific brand and type of soil, (normal plant soil, havent added anything yet)
.8) Size of container. ( 8cm*8cm*7cm)
.9) Did you use peat pucks (or similar) to root clones or germinate seedlings? ( no)
Your nutrients and water:
10) Source of water? (tap water, ph 5.5)
11) Method of checking water ph. (test strips )
12) Method of adjusting water ph. ( bio bact, one teaspoon per 1l)
13) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle. List dosages (quantity per gallon) and current feeding schedule.
14) How often are you watering between feedings, and how much per watering? (i dont know, i spray with a bottle till i see the soil i wet)
15) Any additives or tea's? (Superthrive, CalMag, molasses, Mother's Earth...)
16) Are your ph levels stable, or do they fluctuate? ( stable)
17) What is your ingoing water's ph? ...your runoff ph? ( dunno)
18) Do you foliar feed? If so, with what, how often, and at what time do you spray?
Your growroom:
19) Indoors or outdoors? ( indoor)
20) What size of closet, room or hut? (room is 3x3 meters)
21) What are the temps and humidity levels while lights are on? ...With lights off? around 30 celsius light on, and 20 celsius light off)
22) Have you seen signs of insects in the growroom? ( no)
Your strain:
23) What strain are you growing? ( dont know, got some seeds from a `friend`)
24) From seeds or clones? ( seeds)
25) Is this an autoflower strain? (dont know)
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09-25-2010, 04:24 PM #13Senior Member
Plz help me, dont know whats wrong ( 1st timer)
Isn't BioBact a fertilizer? If so, it's a bad idea to use it to adjust ph.
You'll want an ingoing ph of between 6.3ish and 6.8ish for a peat based medium. (potting soil) Shoot for the higher end, as nutrients will usually bring the ph down further. I aim for 6.8 ph in my garden. Above or below the recommended range, and it will lock-out nutrients.
Any test method with a color-coded result (strips, aquarium test kits...) can not be used to test water with nutrients or runoff tinting, as the colors in the stuff will skew the color-coded results. They only work with clear water.
You spray the soil...? Why? If the soil needs watering, then for God's sake water 'em. A little spray on top is ineffective. (lower root zone needs hydration too)
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