Plant needs help!

[OaklandCA420]

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hi all, Im a total newb to growing, but im growing 2 chese plants in soil and seperate pots.

I used to have them under a crappy 240w bulb wich blew 3 weeks into my growth so now (for the time being) im using good old natural sunlight ( IN ENGLAND DISASTER) though 6 weeks old thay look resonably strong and alive but just recently some leaves began to curl and a small percentage turn yellow. i imediately assumed it was due to overwatering them so i laid off for couple of days until the soil was dry and crispy on top. but still no better

im usink pk 13/14 fruit formulation booster to kinda substitute the lights and speed up processes. is this wrong in any way ??? also (due to newb) i do not have a ph tester so cant test the ph of the water . its mains water (city) by the way. anyy advise or sudjestions would be much appreciated thanks ...:thumbsup:

looks like some nutrient deficiency. have you been feeding it with nutrients?

[Rusty Trichome]

do leaves get dry from over watering? or is that when it is under watered

Usually dryness is from an inability to uptake moisture/nutrients, or a lighting problem. Sudden rise in heat (light too close) or changing the spectrum or lumens causes issues, slow acclimation to her new home usually avoids this.
Sometimes wind burn dries out the leaves, but doubtful that's the case. My plants can almost take a tornado without flinching.

Overwatering, and you'll suffocate the roots, and usually comes with sagging 'puffy' leaves, eventual yellowing, then greyish blotches on the leaves as they die. Eventual root rot is almost the final nail in the coffin.

Underwatering, and the leaves generally brown-up and die fairly quickly. But they do sag like yours a tad if left unwatered. Did you break anything or let the roots dry-out when transplanting? <doh>

On your nexst watering day I'd flush with a dose of 7.0 ph water. See if it helps. 7.0 is close enough to being within ph range, and perhaps the buffers will struggle to keep the ph artificially low. However, ph will dive over time anyway, as the ph buffers fade. The buffers kick the ph up to compensate for the 4.5 ph of peat moss. Topsoils, mulches, composts have less buffers, which keeps the ph too low for cannabis.
Which is why I'd also get to the soil store and look for something more suitable for cannabis, and transplant asap. Make sure there's buffers, perlite, and that it's an indoor potting mix. Makes your job easier. (mine too, come to think of it. :thumbsup

It might get to the point of having to trim dying stuff off to allow that energy to go the potential healthy growth, but do not do it yet. Let's see if another week or so of patience and TLC helps.

[OaklandCA420]

Usually dryness is from an inability to uptake moisture/nutrients, or a lighting problem. Sudden rise in heat (light too close) or changing the spectrum or lumens causes issues, slow acclimation to her new home usually avoids this.
Sometimes wind burn dries out the leaves, but doubtful that's the case. My plants can almost take a tornado without flinching.

Overwatering, and you'll suffocate the roots, and usually comes with sagging 'puffy' leaves, eventual yellowing, then greyish blotches on the leaves as they die. Eventual root rot is almost the final nail in the coffin.

Underwatering, and the leaves generally brown-up and die fairly quickly. But they do sag like yours a tad if left unwatered. Did you break anything or let the roots dry-out when transplanting? <doh>

On your nexst watering day I'd flush with a dose of 7.0 ph water. See if it helps. 7.0 is close enough to being within ph range, and perhaps the buffers will struggle to keep the ph artificially low. However, ph will dive over time anyway, as the ph buffers fade. The buffers kick the ph up to compensate for the 4.5 ph of peat moss. Topsoils, mulches, composts have less buffers, which keeps the ph too low for cannabis.
Which is why I'd also get to the soil store and look for something more suitable for cannabis, and transplant asap. Make sure there's buffers, perlite, and that it's an indoor potting mix. Makes your job easier. (mine too, come to think of it. :thumbsup

It might get to the point of having to trim dying stuff off to allow that energy to go the potential healthy growth, but do not do it yet. Let's see if another week or so of patience and TLC helps.

i recently added perlit to my soil and it made my drainage 100 times better. the soil i have now is for plants and vegetable which i heard is good (weed plants are similar to tomato plants) plus i am on a very low budget (using cfls) and do not want to transplant again. im trying to avoid shock and risk of breaking some roots. anyways my plant is looking much better. leaves popped back up and are a great shade of green. i did end up cutting one leaf off that was dry and yellow and still drooping and trimmed some of another leaf and it looks great. i do need to get on that ph meter for my soil. i need something cheap but does the job.
can i keep the plant in the soil during a flush or do i have to take it out. (might be a stupid question but im just wondering)

[Rusty Trichome]

Do not keep the soil wet. Cannabis prefers a wet-dry cycle. Allow ample dry time after a flush. The medium will be pretty darned saturated for a while. Skip a watering or feeding if you must, but don't keep the soil saturated for too long.

The plant stays put. A flush is between 1 and 3 times the volume of the pot, with clean, properly ph'd water. A one gallon pot, with a small (monthly) flush, would take one gallon of ph'd water. A "holy crap I REALLY overdid the nutrients" flush would be the 3 gallon flush. In a 3 gallon pot, a monthly flush would take about 3 gallons of water...and so on...

Getting the right tools for the job saves heartache, time and money in the long run. The soil could very well become a BIG problem soon. The buffers only last about 6 to 8 weeks, and the ph is low already. Once the buffers fade, the ph dives, which locks-out the nutrients.