Two week old Blueberry starting to yellow

[thegerminator00]

Hey,

My first grow under fluorescent lights. I have a feminised Blueberry that was going strong until the weekend since then it has started to turn yellow starting from the first leaves to shoot and working its way up. I have transplanted into a bigger pot in-case the soil has lost its nutes the soil I am using is a miracle-gro seedling and potting soil that is supposed to feed the plant for six weeks. I'll post some pics help is appreciated.....YouTube - closet grow day 14 Also I have a picture of some liquid food up but i have not fed the plant any wanna wait and see before burning the little fella to death.

thegerminator00 Reviewed by thegerminator00 on 08-17-2010. Two week old Blueberry starting to yellow Hey, My first grow under fluorescent lights. I have a feminised Blueberry that was going strong until the weekend since then it has started to turn yellow starting from the first leaves to shoot and working its way up. I have transplanted into a bigger pot in-case the soil has lost its nutes the soil I am using is a miracle-gro seedling and potting soil that is supposed to feed the plant for six weeks. I'll post some pics help is appreciated.....YouTube - closet grow day 14 Also I have a Rating: 5

[Rusty Trichome]

Likely a good idea to fill-out the CanCon troubleshooting form. The link is in my signature. Just copy-n-paste it here, and fill it out as best as you can.

If you fed them the liquid or any another additive, flush immediately with properly ph'd water, as it's way too soon to be feeding them extra. There's already enough nutrients in the potting mix to last a month and a half or longer. The bronzing could be from too many nutrients, or too much Superthrive. (are you using any Superthrive or a similar additive?)

[thegerminator00]

Likely a good idea to fill-out the CanCon troubleshooting form. The link is in my signature. Just copy-n-paste it here, and fill it out as best as you can.

If you fed them the liquid or any another additive, flush immediately with properly ph'd water, as it's way too soon to be feeding them extra. There's already enough nutrients in the potting mix to last a month and a half or longer. The bronzing could be from too many nutrients, or too much Superthrive. (are you using any Superthrive or a similar additive?)

No i've not added anything at all just the potting soil and water, I transplanted into a bigger pot yesterday and lowered it a bit from the tubes when I came home today it looked kinda the same just a bit taller cause its further from the lights. I suppose its a good thing that its noticeably growing.

[thegerminator00]

What is your experience level? (first timer, novice, experienced...)Noob

Your Equipment:
.1) Type and wattage of lights. (MH, HPS, CFL's, tube fluorescents, LED's)4 X18watt tubes flouro
.2) Distance from tops? bout 3 inches
.3) Reflector type? (cool tube set-up, bat wing, enclosed reflector, bare bulb...)White reflector
.4) Is there a consistent fresh air supply?no
.5) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan?yes
.6) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule?24/7 2400k i think...cool white blueish colour

Your medium:
.7) Specific brand and type of soil, (coco, peat based soilless...) and anything you've added to it. (vermiculite, perlite, worm castings...)miracle grow potting soil and perlite 80/20 mix
.8) Size of container.750ml
.9) Did you use peat pucks (or similar) to root clones or germinate seedlings?no

Your nutrients and water:
10) Source of water? (tap, bottled or filtered) What's it's ph before adjusting?tap
11) Method of checking water ph. (ph pen, test strips, aquarium test kit...)none
12) Method of adjusting water ph. (phosphoric acid, white vinegar, hydrated lime, PH Up...)none...yet
13) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle. List dosages (quantity per gallon) and current feeding schedule. westland, nutri plant feed organic 2-1-4 (not used yet)
14) How often are you watering between feedings, and how much per watering? when its dry no ph tester....yet
15) Any additives or tea's? (Superthrive, CalMag, molasses, Mother's Earth...)no
16) Are your ph levels stable, or do they fluctuate?-
17) What is your ingoing water's ph? ...your runoff ph? -
18) Do you foliar feed? If so, with what, how often, and at what time do you spray?no

Your growroom:
19) Indoors or outdoors?indoors
20) What size of closet, room or hut?closet
21) What are the temps and humidity levels while lights are on? ...With lights off?28 c no humidity sensor
22) Have you seen signs of insects in the growroom? small flys

Your strain:
23) What strain are you growing? (Indica dominate or Sativa dom?) indinca
24) From seeds or clones? seed
25) Is this an autoflower strain?no

[Rusty Trichome]

.4) Is there a consistent fresh air supply?no

Any way to arrange 24/7 air circulation? Builds stem strength and circulates the CO2. If pots are too small for overnight back and forth air flow, (drying out the pots) move fan nightly so the air circulates...just not directly on them.

.6) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule?24/7 2400k i think...cool white blueish colour

Mine are usually in the 5000k-6500k range.

Your medium:
.7) Specific brand and type of soil, (coco, peat based soilless...) and anything you've added to it. (vermiculite, perlite, worm castings...)miracle grow potting soil and perlite 80/20 mix
.8) Size of container.750ml

I've never used a seedling mix for longer than a couple weeks before transplant into a regular potting mix, but it might not be ph buffered for long-term. (a full vegetative cycle)
Peat is acidic, so when buffers fade, your ph will plummet. Most nutrients will pull your ph down too. I notice that lower down, you mention nothing available to test ph. It's a rather important tool. If you can't afford a ph pen and calibrating solution, an aquaruim ph test kit would give you a fairly good idea. Or, Google your local water quality report(s) for quality, ph, what kind of chlorine they use...
It's handy info. (if your locals post the info)
For a peat-based grow, you'll want ingoing water to be within a 6.3 to 6.8ish ph range. Above or below that, and you'll start freaking-out the roots and start locking-out various nutrients.

14) How often are you watering between feedings, and how much per watering? when its dry no ph tester....yet

Don't let them dry-out too much, or for too long. If when you water, the water just flows right out, you'll want to water a little more at a time, or a little more often. If the water does flow right out, add the water slower, and less at a time. Try to establish a working schedule and consistent quantities.

22) Have you seen signs of insects in the growroom? small flys

Likely gnats. I leave mine alone in the outdoor shed, and use a No Pest Strip indoors.

Likely the leaf bronzing is from the MG nutrients. That's about as bad as it should get, but your new growth tells you what's going on now, so let us know how it's looking in a day or two. If the bronzing worsens, give a holler.

So...you'll probably want a regular potting soil before your next transplant,
some nutrients for vegetative stage, (look around in the growlogs for what others are using with success.)
some nutrients for the flowering cycle, (same as above)
a way to know your water ph.

Other than perhaps lowering the fluoro tubes a tad closer, should be good to go. Effective light from fluorescent tubes is like 3-4 inches. It's quite possible the lower leaves are already yellowing from getting insufficient light, due to the lights being raised. Get 'em as close as possible without burning growing tips. CFL's extend further, but all you'd have to change is everything, lol. Fluoro tubes work, just less effeciently. (I still use 'em for seedlings and clones)

[thegerminator00]

Any way to arrange 24/7 air circulation? Builds stem strength and circulates the CO2. If pots are too small for overnight back and forth air flow, (drying out the pots) move fan nightly so the air circulates...just not directly on them.


Mine are usually in the 5000k-6500k range.


I've never used a seedling mix for longer than a couple weeks before transplant into a regular potting mix, but it might not be ph buffered for long-term. (a full vegetative cycle)
Peat is acidic, so when buffers fade, your ph will plummet. Most nutrients will pull your ph down too. I notice that lower down, you mention nothing available to test ph. It's a rather important tool. If you can't afford a ph pen and calibrating solution, an aquaruim ph test kit would give you a fairly good idea. Or, Google your local water quality report(s) for quality, ph, what kind of chlorine they use...
It's handy info. (if your locals post the info)
For a peat-based grow, you'll want ingoing water to be within a 6.3 to 6.8ish ph range. Above or below that, and you'll start freaking-out the roots and start locking-out various nutrients.


Don't let them dry-out too much, or for too long. If when you water, the water just flows right out, you'll want to water a little more at a time, or a little more often. If the water does flow right out, add the water slower, and less at a time. Try to establish a working schedule and consistent quantities.


Likely gnats. I leave mine alone in the outdoor shed, and use a No Pest Strip indoors.

Likely the leaf bronzing is from the MG nutrients. That's about as bad as it should get, but your new growth tells you what's going on now, so let us know how it's looking in a day or two. If the bronzing worsens, give a holler.

So...you'll probably want a regular potting soil before your next transplant,
some nutrients for vegetative stage, (look around in the growlogs for what others are using with success.)
some nutrients for the flowering cycle, (same as above)
a way to know your water ph.

Other than perhaps lowering the fluoro tubes a tad closer, should be good to go. Effective light from fluorescent tubes is like 3-4 inches. It's quite possible the lower leaves are already yellowing from getting insufficient light, due to the lights being raised. Get 'em as close as possible without burning growing tips. CFL's extend further, but all you'd have to change is everything, lol. Fluoro tubes work, just less effeciently. (I still use 'em for seedlings and clones)

Cheers man some useful info there ill keep ye posted on how things go and get my shit together using your advise :thumbsup:

[Rusty Trichome]

Good luc kto ya. :thumbsup:

[thegerminator00]

Rusty,

I have made a few adjustments thanks to your reply, the PH level was in at 7-7.5 so I got some lemon and got it down to 6-6.5 here's my link to watch the vid YouTube - Closet grow day 21

See what you think. any input is appreciated.

[Rusty Trichome]

Sorry, I don't do UTube. Takes forever to load and play, plus...it's not my thing to chase links. (looks great from here though) Post more pictures, I'll take a look. :thumbsup:

Lemon juice is ok, but over the long haul General Hydroponics has a phDown
product I've ben using for years, and the plants love the phosphorous. (phDown is phosphoric acid. Basically the same phosphoric acid that's in sodas)
A gallon lasts me quite a while. Over a year, and my wellwater comes out at 7.9ish.

I try and make it a rule to use the correct tool for the job, and avoid shortcuts. But if lemon juice or vinegar is all you've got, not much you can do.

[thegerminator00]

Ok I should be able to pick some of that up in the local store, I just used the lemon cause I had it close to hand, here's some picks of her now it really seemed to respond to the bigger pot well, do you think it would be too early for some lst?