Any help on my fav NL plant

[Rusty Trichome]

Sorry. Went to answer your post this morning, but a family crisis pulled me back off the computer.

I can try, but never tried in an outdoor plant. iL TRY THOUGH.

...

The only molasses iv given was in the beginning of July twice at 1 tbs per one gallon of water. I gave 1/2 tbs of Epsom salts with the ferts last week, Mon.

I have no idea about outdoor dilution rates for molasses, but indoors I give 1 tsp per gallon. One of the advantages to using molasses is that it is a great source of calcium and magnesium. Have you read the Epsom Salts Is Not A Miracle Cure thread? Anyway...I'm not sure adding more Epsom was a good thing.

The stem looks great, its getting bigger. Only thing that looks odd was the root bumps on the bottom, but thats normal as every plant iv grow looked like this. No brakes or splits.

Cool. Guess we might be able to rule-out disease or bacterial infections.

What is your experience level? (first timer, novice, experienced...)

Novice id say.

Unnecessary

Your Equipment: The Sun

Cool

.1) Type and wattage of lights. (MH, HPS, CFL's, tube fluorescents, LED's)
.2) Distance from tops?
.3) Reflector type? (cool tube set-up, bat wing, enclosed reflector, bare bulb...)
.4) Is there a consistent fresh air supply?
.5) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan?
.6) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule?

Obviously unnecessary.

Your medium: Outdoor grow with great soil, 30 year cow field before we built the house.
.7) Specific brand and type of soil, (coco, peat based soilless...) and anything you've added to it. (vermiculite, perlite, worm castings...)
.8) Size of container. In ground

This is one of the things I was wondering about with growing outdoors.
Personally...if I were spending many months tending a plant and counting on it's performance, I'd pull-back on using native soils, and use something of which I knew what I was working with, and what I could expect next month, or next season...but this is an ignorant statement, because I have no practical idea which would be better, lol. I can think of pro's and con's for each method.

Your nutrients and water:
10) Source of water? (tap, bottled or filtered) What's it's Ph before adjusting?
Well water, 7.5
11) Method of checking water ph. (ph pen, test strips, aquarium test kit...)
Ph pen to test water
12) Method of adjusting water ph. (phosphoric acid, white vinegar, hydrated lime, PH Up...)
Never tried before

Again...another difference between the outdoors and indoors. Indoors, we maintain a ph range of between 6.3 and 6.8 (in a a peat-based medium) because of nutrient lockout issues. But if you've been having success doing what you are doing, what the heck...

13) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle. List dosages (quantity per gallon) and current feeding schedule.

June was all porpoise 15-20-15. July iv used 2-3 feedings of FF Big Bloom with cHA Ching MIX used as the product said on back.

Have you looked at the FF website for directions on using their products? The weekly feeding schedule is a pretty solid schedule. The Cha Ching is a deadly product to be used sparingly, especially in conjunction with any other nutrient or additive. This might be your culprit in all this. I used 1/16th of a teaspoon in a gallon of water, in conjunction with the Tiger Bloom (bloom nutrients) and the Big Bloom. (a catalyst tea) I still have most of my Cha Ching left, as I only use it occationally. Too much of a pain to dial it in for each strain.

17) What is your ingoing water's ph? ...your runoff ph?
How do i get run off outside?

<sigh>

My official guess is that it might be the Cha Ching working harder than you'd like. I'd discontinue it's use till you get a handle on proper use, or at least until the plant improves. Some of my strains don't like the stuff at all. (mainly the more sensitive ativa's)

The leaf cankers might be neckrosis as a result of the plant scavenging the mobile nutrients from the (now dying) leaves, due to some sort of lockout. Normally they yellow, then brownish spots. Yours go beyond that though, and develop what looks like mold spots. Perhaps the necrotic tissue is becoming host to the mold, what with all that humidity.

Again...just a guess. I wish some experienced growers would offer ya some help, but it looks like that's not going to happen.