Any help on my fav NL plant

[bobjob4u]

Wish i could help out. I do NL every season outdoors. I keep things simple. Dig down 2-3 feet deep and 1-2 wide place proper soil . feed once and awhile let nature take over. somtimes i think trying to many different things to correct a minor problem cause more problems. I know a few of mine yellowed a little at bottom and in the middle. Due to heat this season. Also what is your water source. Outdoors when it gets hot. water sourses dry or slow up. that will cause a serious swing in your waters constistensy. aspeacally if in an area with higher iron or sulphur content. or areas with lots of limestone or what have ya. Happen to me. was giving them bad ph water and they showed. Just somthing to throw out there and to think about maybe. hope they work out. good luck and listen to rusty he know what he is doing . nothing he suggest to me every was wrong...

bobjob4u Reviewed by bobjob4u on 08-04-2010. Any help on my fav NL plant Not sure, but im thinking its got a Nitrogen and Mag issue. So i have given it a shot of 15-20-15 with a 1/2 tsp of Epsom salts. Sure wish the site hadn't gone down. The yellow leaves are standing out way to much for security. Not sure i should have added the Epsom, but i had t try something. I pulled a few off as its sticking out way to much. Its been two days since i fed it and plan to give plain water today. The plants leaves are very yellow and are looking very droopy. It is a re vegged Rating: 5

[LetsSeeYa]

Might be a good idea to fill-out the troubleshooting form, so we can see what's been going on. Looks to me like ph swings and nutrient lock-out.
Any way to accurately test the soil ph about half a foot down, to see if the soil buffers are still working...?

I can try, but never tried in an outdoor plant. iL TRY THOUGH.

Did you double-up on molasses or start the use of a new additive? Looks like root issues, either way. You're not using molasses AND magnesium sulfate (epsom salts) are you...?

The only molasses iv given was in the beginning of July twice at 1 tbs per one gallon of water. I gave 1/2 tbs of Epsom salts with the ferts last week, Mon.

How's the main stem look? Any breaks or splits? Any part of it discoloring or looking 'weird'?

The stem looks great, its getting bigger. Only thing that looks odd was the root bumps on the bottom, but thats normal as every plant iv grow looked like this. No brakes or splits.


What is your experience level? (first timer, novice, experienced...)

Novice id say.

Your Equipment: The Sun

.1) Type and wattage of lights. (MH, HPS, CFL's, tube fluorescents, LED's)

.2) Distance from tops?

.3) Reflector type? (cool tube set-up, bat wing, enclosed reflector, bare bulb...)

.4) Is there a consistent fresh air supply?

.5) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan?

.6) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule?

Your medium: Outdoor grow with great soil, 30 year cow field before we built the house.

.7) Specific brand and type of soil, (coco, peat based soilless...) and anything you've added to it. (vermiculite, perlite, worm castings...)

.8) Size of container. In ground

.9) Did you use peat pucks (or similar) to root clones or germinate seedlings?
No


Your nutrients and water:
10) Source of water? (tap, bottled or filtered) What's it's Ph before adjusting?

Well water, 7.5

11) Method of checking water ph. (ph pen, test strips, aquarium test kit...)

Ph pen to test water


12) Method of adjusting water ph. (phosphoric acid, white vinegar, hydrated lime, PH Up...)

Never tried before


13) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle. List dosages (quantity per gallon) and current feeding schedule.

June was all porpoise 15-20-15. July iv used 2-3 feedings of FF Big Bloom with cHA Ching MIX used as the product said on back.


14) How often are you watering between feedings, and how much per watering?

In July it got mostly rain and only the additives listed above.


15) Any additives or tea's? (Superthrive, CalMag, molasses, Mother's Earth...)

Maybe 3-4 doses of molasses and the one feeding of Epsom salts.

16) Are your ph levels stable, or do they fluctuate?

Not really sure how to check ph outside? Where do i get run off from? Checked Ph of water before FF nutes, it was 7.4, then after adding nutes it was 6.4 or 6.5.

17) What is your ingoing water's ph? ...your runoff ph?

How do i get run off outside?

18) Do you foliar feed? If so, with what, how often, and at what time do you spray?

No but thought about using baking soda, but have not, till advised. Iv tried enough on my own. Over my head now with rot like crap on the plant, but one side is better after dead or yellowing was removed. Thought about removing more to see if it might help. but? waiting for advise.

Your strain:
23) What strain are you growing? (Indica dominate or Sativa dom?)

NL#5

24) From seeds or clones?

Re vegged plant. Its close to 6 months old


25) Is this an autoflower strain?

No

Each leaf has a brown spot on it, then they turn yellow, but most turn one finger at a time. Leaf tips get brown after brown spot appears. But some leaves are yellow w/o brown spots, but maybe just used up leave. Most leaves do have a brown spot on them. But also they start with one finger getting yellow as the others get a lime green color. Almost seems like rot, but if so it would have to be the roots.

This pic was 7-20, but noticed the bad yellowing on 7-30 and in between the 10 days the plant got nothing at all, but rain, thats it. I went back on 7-30 and got this. Seemed to start with older leaves, but you can see the brown spots.

One other note is i used 7 dust in the beginning of June, but did not notice any thing to blame it on the dust.

Well thats all the info i got, sorry about my organization of my grow, its something i need to work on as i have no real feeding schedule. I just look at the plant to see if it needs fed and planned to only give solubles from FF for the rest of the year. Last year i tasted my nutes and dont want a repeat of that. Want nature to grow them as they should.


Thanks, very much


:rasta:

[LetsSeeYa]

I filled the trouble shooting form out and took a few close up pics today. Not sure if iv done something to help it or its just that iv tried to remove the dead crap, but looks better. Still looks like hell tho. It rained, but now the sun is out with the humidity at about 22,467, lol. Very hot an sticky, but my other plants look like a pic in High Times. Not all yellow, but looks as healthy as can be. I really would like to figure this out, but in my goggles, all iv found was it could be a fungi or rot?

I pull everything that looks bad and thought about a anti fungal product. I have the 7 dust, but dont think it would help this issue. And thought about using baking soda in a spray bottle, but not sure this would help. The really dark crap on the plant is whats got me worried, because if it was only the leaf i would think there is a cure, not if its rotting under ground. But has been with less water and nutes all July and not a thing since the pic above on July 20th or 22nd. But looking at this pic closer, i can see it started at this time with lime color fingers and a few leaves yellow with the brown spots on them.



Any advise is very, very appreciated, like ya never know. Man am i glad i have a clone from it, no effects from its mom.


:rasta:

[Rusty Trichome]

Sorry. Went to answer your post this morning, but a family crisis pulled me back off the computer.

I can try, but never tried in an outdoor plant. iL TRY THOUGH.

...

The only molasses iv given was in the beginning of July twice at 1 tbs per one gallon of water. I gave 1/2 tbs of Epsom salts with the ferts last week, Mon.

I have no idea about outdoor dilution rates for molasses, but indoors I give 1 tsp per gallon. One of the advantages to using molasses is that it is a great source of calcium and magnesium. Have you read the Epsom Salts Is Not A Miracle Cure thread? Anyway...I'm not sure adding more Epsom was a good thing.

The stem looks great, its getting bigger. Only thing that looks odd was the root bumps on the bottom, but thats normal as every plant iv grow looked like this. No brakes or splits.

Cool. Guess we might be able to rule-out disease or bacterial infections.

What is your experience level? (first timer, novice, experienced...)

Novice id say.

Unnecessary

Your Equipment: The Sun

Cool

.1) Type and wattage of lights. (MH, HPS, CFL's, tube fluorescents, LED's)
.2) Distance from tops?
.3) Reflector type? (cool tube set-up, bat wing, enclosed reflector, bare bulb...)
.4) Is there a consistent fresh air supply?
.5) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan?
.6) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule?

Obviously unnecessary.

Your medium: Outdoor grow with great soil, 30 year cow field before we built the house.
.7) Specific brand and type of soil, (coco, peat based soilless...) and anything you've added to it. (vermiculite, perlite, worm castings...)
.8) Size of container. In ground

This is one of the things I was wondering about with growing outdoors.
Personally...if I were spending many months tending a plant and counting on it's performance, I'd pull-back on using native soils, and use something of which I knew what I was working with, and what I could expect next month, or next season...but this is an ignorant statement, because I have no practical idea which would be better, lol. I can think of pro's and con's for each method.

Your nutrients and water:
10) Source of water? (tap, bottled or filtered) What's it's Ph before adjusting?
Well water, 7.5
11) Method of checking water ph. (ph pen, test strips, aquarium test kit...)
Ph pen to test water
12) Method of adjusting water ph. (phosphoric acid, white vinegar, hydrated lime, PH Up...)
Never tried before

Again...another difference between the outdoors and indoors. Indoors, we maintain a ph range of between 6.3 and 6.8 (in a a peat-based medium) because of nutrient lockout issues. But if you've been having success doing what you are doing, what the heck...

13) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle. List dosages (quantity per gallon) and current feeding schedule.

June was all porpoise 15-20-15. July iv used 2-3 feedings of FF Big Bloom with cHA Ching MIX used as the product said on back.

Have you looked at the FF website for directions on using their products? The weekly feeding schedule is a pretty solid schedule. The Cha Ching is a deadly product to be used sparingly, especially in conjunction with any other nutrient or additive. This might be your culprit in all this. I used 1/16th of a teaspoon in a gallon of water, in conjunction with the Tiger Bloom (bloom nutrients) and the Big Bloom. (a catalyst tea) I still have most of my Cha Ching left, as I only use it occationally. Too much of a pain to dial it in for each strain.

17) What is your ingoing water's ph? ...your runoff ph?
How do i get run off outside?

<sigh>

My official guess is that it might be the Cha Ching working harder than you'd like. I'd discontinue it's use till you get a handle on proper use, or at least until the plant improves. Some of my strains don't like the stuff at all. (mainly the more sensitive ativa's)

The leaf cankers might be neckrosis as a result of the plant scavenging the mobile nutrients from the (now dying) leaves, due to some sort of lockout. Normally they yellow, then brownish spots. Yours go beyond that though, and develop what looks like mold spots. Perhaps the necrotic tissue is becoming host to the mold, what with all that humidity.

Again...just a guess. I wish some experienced growers would offer ya some help, but it looks like that's not going to happen.

[nugssgalore]

OMG those plants are huge. As a longtime gardener I would say stop giving her all that extra stuff and leave her alone for awhile with just plain water. She will finish out her buds and you don't need those yellow leaves anyway.

[nugssgalore]

After looking at all your pics it does seem like your sick plant has some type of mildew/mold or wilt much like I have seen sometimes on tomato plants. The easiest treatment for that and will not effect your plants is to dilute some skim milk with water in a spray bottle and spray the effected foliage. 2 to 3 Tablespoons of milk per quart of water. This kills mildew and fusarium wilt on tomato plants but you have to get underneath the leaves also....big job for those big plants and spray it every other day or so. Good luck.

[Rusty Trichome]

Unless it's spreading rapidly, I think I'd identify the substance before going off half-cocked. And is spraying a plant in high humidity a good idea? (just wonderin')

[nugssgalore]

Good question about the humidity...I live in an area that doesnt have that problem in late summer. Couldn't hurt to mix a little baking soda with the diluted skim milk solution. I do that for my roses in the spring when the humidity is high and they have the white type of mildew. This looks more like a fusarium wilt problem or something that is coming from stressed out roots. BTW the one year I used a tablespoon of epsom salts in the bottom of planting holes for my tomatoes was the worst year ever. They hated it.

[Rusty Trichome]

Cool insight about the epsom salt. But using it straight is a bad idea to begin with. Just sits there waiting to burn unsuspecting roots. Watered-in or diluted and sprayed is a much better idea.
On my roses I used to use the...what is it...? Black mold spray, I think. But I live in the desert, and don't that problem any more. :thumbsup:
I think if we can identify and correct what's ailing his NL, any additional spraying would be unnecessary. Plus, spraying unnecessarily might cause more heartache than relief, ya know...?

It might be that in the long run, mold or mildew spraying is necessary. But unless it's an emergency, I'd rather see him fix the problem rather than masking it up. :thumbsup:

[LetsSeeYa]

A buddy said it could be Blight, but is not sure. Anyone seen it before on mj i cant find anything on the net, but veggies.?



:rasta: