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  1.     
    #1
    Junior Member

    6 weeks into flowering, mold, lost cause?

    Been battling the mold/mildew problem with sulfur burner and milk/water spray. Should probably not use sulfur anymore being this close to harvesting. Would moving them outside help any for the last 2 weeks? It is suppose to be in the 80's for the next two weeks and probably longer. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
    wretchedfourone Reviewed by wretchedfourone on . 6 weeks into flowering, mold, lost cause? Been battling the mold/mildew problem with sulfur burner and milk/water spray. Should probably not use sulfur anymore being this close to harvesting. Would moving them outside help any for the last 2 weeks? It is suppose to be in the 80's for the next two weeks and probably longer. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Rating: 5

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  3.     
    #2
    Junior Member

    6 weeks into flowering, mold, lost cause?

    heres a c/p from another forum:
    Bud Rot

    During the last week or two of flowering, depending on if you use chemical or organics. If you use chemical, you want to flush 1 ½ weeks to 2 weeks before harvest to flush out all of the chemical nutrients that your plant was using. If you are using Organics then you would want to flush about a week before harvest. Giving them plain water is fine, flushing them also improves the overall quality of your bud. Once you start to 'flush' you should check extra careful for bud rot. Bud Rot Happens when the humidity is high, if you have fat dense buds, or if mold spores are in the air. Bud rot looks like a black brownish sludge that can quickly take over your plant and ruin your harvest. The mold spores are air-borne.

    Prevent and Control

    Removing any dead or dying material from the plant helps prevent bud rot so does decreasing humidity and increasing ventilation. There are also safe anti fungal sprays from hydro shops that help. If you do find gray mould, cut off the infected part of the plant well above and below the effected area and remove it from the grow room. Decreasing the humidity from 55% to around 40% will make a big difference in preventing bud mold. Also having very big buds can cause bud rot, and would advise watching the areas on your plant that have the biggest, thickest and the more dense buds. Try to have medium size buds rather than having big thick buds. Having a dehumidify around when high humidity days can help as well.

    To protect them against bud rot for outside. DO NOT foliar spary at night, doing this the heat will not evaporate the water as well because it is night.
    Water the plants in the day instead of so close to being night. Same as foliar spraying.

    Make sure your plants are stress free as possible and checking plants often can aid in getting rid of moldy bud before the spores spread onto other areas of the plant! Have a lot of air going around the plants for bad ventilation= sick plants and a breeding ground for spores!

    Keep leaves away from soil making sure they do NOT touch the soil.

    Keep cooler temps at night while plants are on there down time.

    If you have gotten bud rot already the best thing to do is cut off the bad buds discard them away from youâ??re grow and apply any of the following: Neem oil, Neem2 which is a ready made solution!
    Using high ph water for foliar spray prevents them from spreading as well kills the mold. pythium is another good product to use! There are many other chemicals and organics that work, but these are the most popular and they work very very well!



    Fungus

    Fungus is another problem when you are in flowering, because they are susceptible to a fungus or bud rot. Growing conditions for fungus are best when temps are between 60 and 80 degrees and the humidity is high. The fungus is very destructive and spreads quickly. These kinds of fungus are air borne and can travel to other bud sites. If you already have been infected by them the best thing you can do is cut off and remove the infected area and then discard out of the grow area, then get a hold of some anti-fungal spray and apply.

    Fungi can kill your crop quick, so invest in some SAFE fungicide and spray down the plants as much as you can and as soon as you can. The faster the safer.. If you have had problems with fungus before, do NOT spray them you will contribute to the fungus becoming resistant to the spray/chemicals you are using. Try to keep the humidity down to the range fungus do not grow to well in. Keep a good amount of ventilation around your grow, and if you have plants outside, always keep them quarantined away youâ??re your indoor plants until you know they are safe.

    Most fungicides are very nasty and eating them can be very dangerous so its best to use something on them that is safe on plants that you can eat., Safer makes a very safe product that can be found in most stores and hydro shops. it contains only sulfur in solution. Here is a picture of what bud rot looks like when it starts to form.

    Control
    To control to prevent fungus from forming there are a few things you should do.

    DO NOT foliar feed at night, tends to make humidity higher rather than when you water in the day the water has time to evaporate where at night will linger in the air.

    Same goes for watering plants at night, wait till the morning or afternoon to water!

    Keep a happy plant and will not become prone to infections. Checking plants often can aid in getting rid of any fungus that may attack other leaves and or bud!

    Have a lot of air going around the plants for bad ventilation= sick plants and a breeding ground for spores!

    Keep leaves away from soil making sure they do NOT touch the soil.

    Keep cooler temps at night while plants are on there down time.


    If you have already gotten some kind of fungus there are things you can use: neem2, neem oil works wonders!! Potassium Bicarbonate, Baking soda and for other chemical agents you can use Plant Shield, Serenade and pythium! There are many other chemicals and organics that work but these are the most popular and they work very very well!

  4.     
    #3
    Senior Member

    6 weeks into flowering, mold, lost cause?

    Do you have the room ventilated?

  5.     
    #4
    Junior Member

    6 weeks into flowering, mold, lost cause?

    Yes but probably could use more intake besides the passive intakes. Raised the temps last night before lights out for a couple of hours.

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