Yellow leaves, spots - First grow - White Russian - CFL

[mgjscdhl]

ok. I understand what you mean.
Folliar feeding during veg was definitely a bad Idea. It wasn't with nutrients but damage was still done obviously. I guess its a bit hard to guarantee feed schedule. Everything is a little different, specially a micro grow with cfl.

Yes. Besides those rusted leaves the rest of plant looks well. The pot is heavy so it won't need water/nutrients for a little bit and it grown to 7" tall now.

mgjscdhl Reviewed by mgjscdhl on 05-05-2010. Yellow leaves, spots - First grow - White Russian - CFL I did some googling prior to this, but honestly I can't nail it down. I beleive the issue started after last feeding (4 days ago). This White Russian is a clone I gotten a month prior. Its transplanted into soil 16 days ago. While it went well it took a few days for yellowing to disappear. About 3 days ago it showed up again. At first it started in middle (I think) and only effected the lower and middle leaves. One is yellow, probably canary yellow, and some dark almost red spoting on edges Rating: 5

[Rusty Trichome]

Tiz easy to love your plants to death. Just try not to kill 'em before asking for help with saving them.

You'll get the hang of it soon enough. :thumbsup:

[Dorje113]

I've done folliar spraying to keep moisture level up and some water when topsoil was bone dry.

Don't think overwatering is an issue unless the soil is very heavy, thus foliars shouldn't be a problem. Since the soil is peat and perlite, overwatering is going to take some effort. I seriously doubt this is your problem.

Again, I'd recommend getting a soil test kit. I've seen a 1 use kit for under $5 at Home Depot, and $20 for a nicer one at the local hardware store. You need to be sure your SOIL pH is also appropriate. I go for 6.5-6.7. Usually my water is at 7.3 before adding nutes, and with a lot of peat in the mix this has worked for me on many dif. gardens. The test kit will also tell you if your nuts are out of balance.

Reading your post again, you're watering with a solution in the low 6's, so I still think you have a pH prob., but maybe on the low end and not the high end like I had. I always add lime to my mixes to balance the peat moss.

[Rusty Trichome]

Ok Dorje, what are the signs for overwatering, and what are his indicators of ph issues? And what's the difference in appearance between the two?

Soil meters are 100% unreliable crap. Unless you are either replenishing used soil and looking for a ballpark figure, or if you are mixing your own. Most quality potting mixes are pre-buffered, so will show no changes till buffers fade. You'll want to keep your water from fighting the buffers, and only knowing soil ph won't help there.

[Dorje113]

Ok Dorje, what are the signs for overwatering, and what are his indicators of ph issues? And what's the difference in appearance between the two?

Soil meters are 100% unreliable crap. Unless you are either replenishing used soil and looking for a ballpark figure, or if you are mixing your own. Most quality potting mixes are pre-buffered, so will show no changes till buffers fade. You'll want to keep your water from fighting the buffers, and only knowing soil ph won't help there.

overwatering makes leafs droopy, pH causes nute lockout and can show as different symptoms. Drooping leafs with yellow banding could be zinc, but as I said, prolly a result of pH being off.

I don't think it's overwatering because a 50/50 mix of peat and perlite is impossible to overwater if he's waiting for it to dry out, which he stated he was.

I'm not suggesting a soil meter, but a complete soil test like LaMotte or Security. This will tell you the pH of the soil, you need a 2nd test kit that measures water pH so you know what pH you're watering with. It also doesn't hurt to know (yes, in "ballpark" terms) if your soil nutes are balanced. I've suggested soil testing to many people who find they have way too much or too little of one major nutrient, or their pH was off.

[Rusty Trichome]

Close, but no cigar. Droopy leaves, pillowed effect, severe yellowing (no nutrient uptake) with necrotic spots (possible root rot) are signs of overwatering. Veining is likely the result of the wash-out from too much moisture. Roots need air, which the overwatering blocks. Spraying compounds this problem.

Yellowing (nutrient lockout) with beginning signs of the claw, (downturning leaf fingers eventually forming what looks like a claw) and early deformation of leaf structure are the early signs of ph issues.

Flowering and late-flowering symptoms would need more info before diagnosing.

[Dorje113]

I'm not sure how you still think it's overwatering if the mix is 50/50 perlite/peat and he's waiting until at least the top of the mix is dry before watering again? I'm not saying it's def. not overwatering, I'm just not sure how it could happen given the mix and his watering habits?

Unless he's leaving the pots sitting in water in the trays pictured after watering, or the pots have no way to drain.

[Dorje113]

Also, the pH of peat moss is about 4, perlite is mostly neutral, and he's watering with water in the low 6s. What are the chances the soil pH is way too low?

[mgjscdhl]

oh. No, I do not allow it to sit in standing water. I stop watering as I see it starting and just dump the tray in a sink or toilet before sitting it back in the growbox.

[Rusty Trichome]

Also, the pH of peat moss is about 4, perlite is mostly neutral, and he's watering with water in the low 6s. What are the chances the soil pH is way too low?

He said he uses a soilless mix. (with added perlite...?) Usually that means a peat-based mix, which most contain buffers added by the manufacturers. Were he growing in straight peat with added perlite, I might entertain the possibility. Most all of the potting mixes I've tried are buffered to near neutral ph, (6.6 to 7ish) so no... I do not think it's a ph problem. No way he could have burned-through the buffers already, and it looks like overwatering. And yes...even with additional perlite, you can oversaturate.