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	04-30-2010, 12:16 AM #11 OPJunior Member OPJunior Member
 My STEALTH rubbermaid 150w HPS + T5 grow Originally Posted by lray21 Originally Posted by lray21
 
 Glad you like it. If you have any questions about my setup let me know. Good luck! I'll keep this thread updated as my grow progresses. :rasta:
 
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	04-30-2010, 12:58 AM #12 Senior Member Senior Member
 My STEALTH rubbermaid 150w HPS + T5 growIf you're still fighting spidermites, drop a hot shots no pest strip (with dichlorvos) in there. 
 
 You won't have that problem any longer.
 
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	04-30-2010, 01:02 AM #13 Junior Member Junior Member
 My STEALTH rubbermaid 150w HPS + T5 growok, so my first question is where is your intake? I figured I'd go for the intake at the bottom and the out take at the top. only thing is I dont want any light to leak out. 
 
 next question is how do you have your bens connected? I wanna make the upper ben just house the light; maybe just lift it off? but I also have a feeling thats where light will leak out. any advice? thanks bro! :rastasmoke:
 
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	04-30-2010, 05:01 AM #14 OPJunior Member OPJunior Member
 My STEALTH rubbermaid 150w HPS + T5 growMy intake is also at the bottom. Its a passive intake, so I rely on negative pressure inside the cab to draw fresh air in. It works well. I purchased a roll of flat universal activated carbon. I think its supposed to be for an air conditioner. At least thats the isle it was in at home depot. It comes in a huge roll that you can cut to size. What I did was cut a few squares and covered my exhaust ports and my intake ports. This also effectively blocks light. So really it serves a dual purpose--odor control and light control. Originally Posted by lray21 Originally Posted by lray21
 
 This is what I did to connect the bins-- The lids have an indentation on them so that you can stack them. So I just cut the indentation out of one of the lids (make sure to leave a little 'lip' for the bin to rest on). Then on the inside I used duct tape to secure them together.
 
 Either buy lots of duct tape or get some glossy white paint to light proof the bins. Paint will be much easier if you have an area to do it. I had to go the duct tape route and used a combination of chrome and black. Worked well, it just took forever to get rid of all the leaks.
 
 Shit this is a long post. I'm baked. :smokin:
 
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	04-30-2010, 03:24 PM #15 Junior Member Junior Member
 My STEALTH rubbermaid 150w HPS + T5 growok sweet thanks! yeah I used foil cuz im broke as fuck. I got busted with a half pound so i gotta take care of court shit. I took the last of my cash to do this lol. I know foil doesnt reflect as well as white or mylar but itll work for now. and thats badass advice for the intake. def have to get that. as soon as i get my seeds, ill part posting pics. Thanks again bro! :rastasmoke: 
 
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	04-30-2010, 07:05 PM #16 Senior Member Senior Member
 My STEALTH rubbermaid 150w HPS + T5 growActually foil works better than white. I'm too lazy to get out my quantum meter to prove it but white paint is horrible for reflectivity. If it was really so good, the backing of HID hoods and T5HO arrays would be white opposed to polished aluminum. Originally Posted by lray21 Originally Posted by lray21
 
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	04-30-2010, 07:21 PM #17 OPJunior Member OPJunior Member
 My STEALTH rubbermaid 150w HPS + T5 growFoil has the tendency to create hot spots, though it is pretty reflective. Glossy white paint is actually very good at reflecting light. Think of walking around in the snow, with the sun out... bright as hell... Polished aluminum is probably ideal though. Originally Posted by khyberkitsune Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
 
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	05-01-2010, 01:03 AM #18 Senior Member Senior Member
 My STEALTH rubbermaid 150w HPS + T5 growSnow is different, it's just frozen water and that acts as a prism. Paint, on the other hand, causes EXTREME amounts of diffusion and that causes an immense loss of actual power. Any photography incident light meter will show you this in a reflective test. Originally Posted by gromulan Originally Posted by gromulan
 
 I keep hearing warnings about hot spots, but I rarely see it happen with any foil-lined setup. Why? Due to how lenses and mirrors work and how light reflects off of a surface, unless you've got one excellent perfect parabolic curve, there's going to be almost nil focus - this is also why many metal-backed HIDs use hammered metal. You're more likely to get hotspots caused by water droplets on the leaves forming a lens than your walls being sloppily lined with foil or mylar.
 
 Paint is rarely as smooth as any metal so the light gets scattered in many directions you don't want. Due to the Inverse square law, you want at most ONE bounce and direct to the plant with as little scattering as possible to maintain intensity.
 
 Any mirrored surface is preferable to white paint in almost any situation.
 
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	05-01-2010, 03:34 PM #19 OPJunior Member OPJunior Member
 My STEALTH rubbermaid 150w HPS + T5 growInteresting stuff! Good point about snow acting as a prism. Maybe the burn issue with the foil is caused by the fact that it is a metal and holds in heat? Originally Posted by khyberkitsune Originally Posted by khyberkitsune
 Thanks for the explanation :thumbsup:
 
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	05-01-2010, 11:18 PM #20 Senior Member Senior Member
 My STEALTH rubbermaid 150w HPS + T5 growI've heard about poorly-laid foil trapping heat by making an air layer. Airspace is one of the best insulators known, so an improperly-laid foil job would likely cause temperature issues, yes. Originally Posted by gromulan Originally Posted by gromulan  
 
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