Too much molasses, and the magnesium in it will build-up to toxic levels locking-out other nutrients. I use 1 tsp per gallon of properly ph'd water on non-nute days from 4 weeks into flower till harvest. (the unsulfured molasses I use is about 5.1 ph)

A starting ph of 6.5 is tricky, as the buffers in the Ocean Forrest fade (late in flower) the ph will drop further. Proper range for peat-based mixes are between 6.3ish and 6.9ish. Wander outside that range, and lockouts occur.

Are you using test strips to check runoff ph? If so...stop wasting your money. Keep 'em for ingoing water ph. The problem with those is that they aren't even in the ballpark. The color coded results are skewed by tinted runoff and colored nutrients.

If using a ph pen for testing ph, you'll want to adjust-up the ingoing water ph a tad. 5.0 runoff is too low.

No fatal damage by the looks of it though. They still look smokable to me. :jointsmile:
Rusty Trichome Reviewed by Rusty Trichome on . need help on yellow leaves and brown spots down center What is your experience level? (first timer Your Equipment: .1) Type and wattage of lights. 600w hps .2) Distance from tops? 8" .3) Reflector type? enclosed air cooled .4) Is there a consistent fresh air supply? yes .5) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan? exhaust yes circulation no .6) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule? 600w 12/12 Rating: 5