Quote Originally Posted by MMJinColorado
I've heard that Azamax and Azatrol are safe to use later in harvest and will kill both the mites and eggs. However I suppose that means you will end up with mite corpses on your buds... at that point though, you're basically jsut trying to salvage what you can.

I saw a few of those bastids on my plants, and I've been carefully examining them daily and hitting them with a mix of Einstein Oil neem and Safer soap when I notice anything. I've only seen 2 or 3 actual mites on my plants (both in veg and flower room), but my G-13 was totally covered a few weeks ago, and I was able to get rid of it (it had small webs near the bottom and all). I'm just keeping a close eye on the situation, but I will definitely be giving my room and house a thorough cleaning for the next batch. I'm 2 weeks into flower and will discontinue the neem/Safer after this week to be safe (assuming I end up having to do another application) -- another 6-7 weeks will be enough to work any residue out and if I have to, I can hit them with Azamax towards the end. I'm mostly just keeping my temps low (get up to 77 or so during the day and down to ~63 at night), trying to keep them moist, and hitting them with a fairly strong fan since the mites don't like that.

Aside from an actual humidifier, what is the best way to increase humidity? I'm in a grow tent with a pretty strong exhaust fan (replaces the air about 3x per minute), so it seems like whatever it is, it would really need to produce some humidity to keep up, especially with our dry semi-desert air.
I feel as if a huge misconception on the way to use Azatrol/Azamax is flying around. IMO, its definetely a waste to even spray either one of these products on your plants as azatracin which is the active compound seems to only be effective when used as a nutrient feed. It is supposedly supposed to be a systemic line of defense that your plants actually incorporate throughout its entire structure in order to prevent any mites from even being able to feed. I find that using azatrol early in the vegetative life cycle ( IE using a solution once every 7-10 days to feed) up to two weeks before i throw into flower really really helps with preventative maintanence. Also, since you are feeding with it it also helps to kill the mites located in your soil which used to be my hardest endeavor in the eradication efforts. However, I have heard reports that Azatracin can actually diminish the production of trichromes but I ve not noticed this in the 2 years ive used the product. I also use Final answer and neem oil as straight foliar sprays. I hang Hot shots things in my outer room areas (IE where no plants are) as they are extremely effective but are also carcinogenic.

If you are talking about flowering plants it is ALWAYS more cost effective to cut down the one plant that intially shows mite damage at onset as compared to cutting down everything 3 weeks later when the whole room is infested. I then treat my plants in flower that dont have dmg ( as long as they are at least 2 meeks out still) with Final answer. But like I said, it is much safer to lose one plant then your entire perpetual harvest.

The absolute hands down best remedy for spider mites though is to have healthy plants with no dead leaf matter. Mites are really only attracted to a plant that is not 100% so if you can keeps your temps low, your room clean, and your bitches happy you should be looking good.

Has anyone heard about a Colorado Native beetle that is a mite ravager? Ive heard a few stories but have never actually been able to track them down. Im looking to not release them in my garden but everywhere in a thousand foot radius of my actual building.