Are you able to post a pic? Why I ask, is I'm trying to reconcile a month-old plant in a styro cup. Normally a month-old plant's in a bigger container, I think. If you're rootbound, it'll cause those symptoms, including nute lockout.

Your guesses seem good. When I flush it's a slow, loving process. :giveflower: You have to give the salts and corruption you're trying to get rid of enough time to dissolve and be rinsed out of your medium. (The old rule of thumb is to flush with 3X the pot volume.) But if you measure the EC (ppm) of your runoff, you can watch the dissolved solids level drop with each flush till you get it where you want it-- a cheap EC pen would be a big help. You may want a pH pen, too.

But you're doing it right (well. the way I think is right ): see how much the soil is raising the pH and shoot low to compensate. Never shock the plants with a flush that's more than a point off ideal, though.

Don't know where you want your pH, but I've seen strains that seem to prefer soil under 6.0, despite what I've read. And some sativas are comparatively light feeders, they don't use up much nutes so your soil gets "hot" fast.

Unrelated to your problem, I'd get some kinda reflector on your light source. No sense wasting those watts / photons bouncing them off the ceiling.

HTH, Hermie
DreadedHermie Reviewed by DreadedHermie on . Green veins, yellow patches between veins? What is your experience level? first timer Your Equipment: .1) Type and wattage of lights. 200w CFL .2) Distance from tops? 10" .3) Reflector type? none, in small white room .4) Is there a consistent fresh air supply? yes .5) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan? yes .6) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule? 200w, 5000k, 18/6 Rating: 5