HMMMM i have revised my info please read.... also added some more pics of pic 1 root zone note the lack of mirco hairs.
pic2 comparison picture of leaves.(from right to left)grow tips, normal leaf, sensistar leaf from mother under 150hps, ak47female leaf from mother 45watt florecent.
pic 3 is the end of the carbon filter and seperate air intake supplied by 280cmh fans
pic 4 is primary fan plus silencer.
pic 5 is my headertank and how much water is used in 24hours

please ask if you would like me to show pictures of anything else. or more detail...

now then ...
where would you have started???

about the folar feeding. if the ph is fine then the roots are not taking up the nutes. only way to add the nutes if this is the case is to folar feed.

which of my techniques that you understand are counter productive??? and why please.

Let alone all the leaf-stress you add continualy with the nutrient fogger, bug stuff, high humidity

the nutrient fogger is undercover and the fog does not leave the root zone. have a look at an NFT tray picture dude. the fogger is under the root cover.

i only sprayed once with 1/2 strengh pest off which is 100%natural and organic. its none systemic also. as recomended by the bug supply site. i am now using natural preditors such as the ladybugs and the aphidus to prevent annd controll all the pests commonly found in cannabis grow rooms. those ladybugs are tirless hunters.

humidity..
VEG 50%RH-70%RH.
FLOWER1ST HALF 50%RH
LAST HALF 40%RH..
PLEASE FEEL FREE TO COPY AND PASTE ANY LITRATURE THATS SAYS OTHERWISE AS I HAVENT SEEN ANY OTHER FIGURES IN 10 YEARS OF LOOKING. any thing below 50%RH in veg is counter productive as the stomata will close and cause slow growth due to poor intake of CO2. above 70%RH and the plants can not respire and keep cool or get rid of waste water.( when plants take up nutes and water the water has to be perspired and evaporated) also mildew can be a problem in veg in humidity above 70%RH

I ONLY SPRAY WITH CARBONATED WATER WHEN LIGHTS HAVE JUST COME ON. HUMIDITY RISES FOR 13MINS IN MY SETUP AND THEN DROPS BACK DOWN TO START % AGAIN. CANNA 0.4 EC SOLUTION JUST BEFORE LIGHT OUT. AS IN SECONDS...

Can we make this easier...? Which technique(s) did you add to your growroom strategy after your last successful crop? (nutrient fogger, CO2 sprays...chosing what dilution is best and not following instructions...new bug sprays...) What additives did you start or stop since your last successful crop?

since my last crop @22 ounces from this space I have added the humidifier, fogger(undercover and not allowed to evaporate into the plant air).

MY FEEDING SCHEDUAL..

if you have ever used canna they SUGGEST that optimal growth will occure in a nute solution of between 1.3 and 2EC. this was also supported by there feeding schedual calculator on there website. SENSISTAR is a sensitive breed and i chose from cannas OWN options to use a light feeding schedual. at 1.3EC FOR RO AND 1.6 FOR TAPWATER WITH A BACKGROUND EC OF 0.4..

additives were the same as before especialy the 1ml boost. it makes ythe plants so much more productive in terms of yeild and again i have seen this teasted side by side twice this time tho and both boost fed plants out yeilded the none boost plants and the smoke was same strength and taste.....as is co2 folar feeding

I have read your mythbuster info and have read nothing new. i realy dont think you full understand the subject of folar feeding and its uses. The man was very correct in all he says but cannabis plants and situations vary alot. as does the use of folar spraying

folar feeding is an established science. i have seen at least 4 side by side tests and there just no contest at all... a good root system is essential but plants can do so much more with folar feeding..

i realy dont know where you get all this INFORMATION from but i think you need to either prove me wrong and get copying and pasting or go back to school. you called me a liar in your last post and to be fair i have taken offence to this.

if you dont fully understand the subject in hand how can you pretend to be a master of it.

getting lemonade or fizzy pop mixed up with carbonated water( carbonic acid) i let slip. i wasnt even going to mention the humidity thing cos thats plain wrong.
but you dont know the difference between a root zone nutramist style fogger and a cool mist humidifier do you????

you say your on here alot. obviously shoveling this crap to peeps all day. and then reading other crap so that you can tell me about what you have read rather than what you have actualy experienced first hand....

im not doubting your ability to grow nice ganja. please think about what you are writing and write with the knolage you can back up what you say...

i realy dont want to fall out with anyone here as iv only been here a few days. please help and not pull apart..




Quote Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome
Gee. It's nice to see an experienced gardener at work. But excuses will kill your ladies. Obviously there's something amiss, and I'm willing to bet it's more than one thing. Reading your troubleshooting form, I could easily spot a few potential issues (despite your protestations) that would be most gardeners starting point. But imagine how in-depth we could have gotten were you to have filled the form out to the best of your ability and with all the facts. I'm sure there's a lesson in here. Just not sure how to recognize it. Any ideas...?

Anyway, I'm in here often, and am quite familiar with a number of different growing methods and styles, and although I'm not a hydro guy, I can recognize when someone is attempting a technique or two that can be counter-productive in the growroom. Let alone all the leaf-stress you add continualy with the nutrient fogger, bug stuff, high humidity...on what appears to be on a daily basis. You mention humidity isn't an issue, but according to answer 'T' from the form, you are at 55% (ish) average, plus fogging and spraying. Yes...humidity and respritory stress is an issue.

Can we make this easier...? Which technique(s) did you add to your growroom strategy after your last successful crop? (nutrient fogger, CO2 sprays...chosing what dilution is best and not following instructions...new bug sprays...) What additives did you start or stop since your last successful crop?

Also, there's a link in my signature regarding plant myths. If you would be so kind as to at least read the link I placed below?
Foliar Feeding Myths
Despite being an agricultural refrence, the basic plant biology is the same.

Or, wait till someone else (with more experience than I) chooses to chime-in. It might well be that you are right. After all...I'm just filling-in for the hydro guys, and it might just be a ph thing.
revised in red

HI THERE EVERY ONE THIS IS MY FIRST POST HERE SO HELLOW TO YOU.

NOW MY PROBLEM....

What is your experience level? (first timer growing with proper kit, 10years reasearch and outdoor growing exp.)

What type of hydro set-up are you running? im running a 20L 5 plant NFT WITH ADDED 90MLH FOGGER. 2X110L AIR STONES, 30L header tank.

Your Equipment:
A) Type and wattage of lights. (MH, HPS, CFL's, tube fluorescents, LED's) HPS DUEL SPECTRUM 600WATT, STANDARD BALAST.

B) Distance from tops? 24INCHESsince problem has started

C) Reflector type? (cool tube set-up, bat wing, enclosed reflector, bare bulb...) BAT WING.mine is not a batwing but close to, its exactly the same as a Super Nova Reflector

D) What are the bulb wattages, kelvin ratings, and schedule? 600WATTS DUEL SPECTRUM HPS 18/6 for veg

E) Is there a consistent fresh air supply? YES EXTRACTED/SUPPLIED BY A 280CMH FAN-360CMH CARBON FILTER-SILENCER. ALSO USE A TEMPRITURE ACTIVATED 280CMH FAN WITH FILTER AND SILENCE AS BEFORE.for cold air intake

F) Do you have an exhaust fan and a circulation fan? YES BOTH @280CMH.

G) Size of reservoir? 20L

H) What medium if applicable. ROCKWOOL AND SPREADER MATT

Your nutrients and water:
I) If using rockwoll for clones or seedlings, did you rinse the cubes well, with properly ph'd water? YES AND STABLE @PH5.8

J) Source of water. (tap or filtered) What's it's ph? FIRST 3WEEKS ON TAP WATER PH 7.4 CORRECTED WITH PH DOWN PHOSPHORIC ACID TO 6.0 NOW ON RO WATER PH6.2acid corrected to ph5.5

K) Specific brand and N-P-K ratio for each bottle. List dosages (quantity per gallon) and current feeding schedule. CANNA AQUA VEG AND FLORA. 50ML A+B, 75ML CANNA ZYME, 20ML 6% SILICATE PHOSPHATE.reduced to a 1/4 untill this problem clears

L) What is the ec/ppm of your unadjusted tap (or filtered) water? 0.4 BUT NOT USING ANYMOREnow using RO=EC 0.0

M) What is the ec/ppm of your nutrient solution? NOW USING RO1.3 EC DOWN TO 0.9EC THEN TOP UP EVERDAY AT LIGHTS ON BACK TO 1.3EC BUT WHEN USING TAP WATER THE FIGURES WERE 1.6 DOWN TO 1.2

N) What is the temperature of your nutrient solution? (reservoir high and low temps) 20DEG LIGHTS OFF 22DEG LIGHTS ON. CHECKED EVERY DAY AT 10.00AM LIGHTS ON(LIGHT COME ON AT 6PM GO OFF AT 12.00PM) AND AT 6.00PM JUST AS THE LIGHTS COME ON

O) Does your ec/ppm show a rise or fall when you do your daily PPM check? YES FROM 1.3-0.9LEVELS USING RO WATER

P) Does the ph fluctuate? YES FROM PH5.5 TO PH6.0 BECAUSE OF THE HEADER TANK.

Q) Do you foliar feed? If so, with what, how often, and at what time do you
spray? (Just after lights come on, just before they go out...) YES WITH CARBONATED WATER AND A 0.4EC SOLUTION OF CANNA SINCE PROBLEM STARTEDHAVE ALSO GIVEN ONE DOSE OF EPSOME SALTS@1/2tsp per liter WITH 15PPM OF ZINC CITRATE

R) How often do you replace reservoir water/nutes? What does it look like before changes? (clear, foamy, green, brown...) AT THE MOMENT IM ADDING ABOUT 4L A DAY FROM THE HEADER TANK SO I CHANGE EVERY 5 DAYS.same as the lucas formular method 1

Your growroom:
S) What size of closet, room or hut? 4FOOT WIDE 3FOOT DEEP 6FOOT HIGH

T) What are the temps and humidity levels while lights are on? ...With lights off? LIGHTS ON 25.1DEG-51%R/H.... LIGHTS OFF 19.7DEG-63%R/H

U) Have you seen signs of insects in the growroom? APIDS... TREATED WITH PEST OFF1/2 strength, 10 LADY BUGS(STILL ALIVE) 250 APHIDIUS(STILL EMERGING). ADDING THESE BUGS IS THE STANDARD WAY OF KILLING APHIDS AND SPIDERMITE ORGANICAL. THE WEBSITE I GOT THE APHIDUS FROM RECOMENDED SPRAYING WITH PEST OFF PRIOR TO ADDING THE APHIDUS

V) Are the roots long and white, or brown and slimy? THE ROOTS ARE PURE WHITE, LONG, GROWTH BECAME EXPONENTIAL AFTER FIRST WEEK OF FOGGER BUT NOW HAVE LOST THERE MICRO HAIRS.. WILL ADD PICTURE

Your strain:
W) What strain are you growing? (Indica dominate or Sativa dom?) INDICA DOMINANT SENSISTAR HATES NITROGEN AND HIGH NUTE LEVELS.

X) From seeds or clones? MY CLONES FROM SEED

Y) Is this an autoflower strain? NO

ADDITIVES.
20ML 6%SILICATE PHOSPHATESTOPPED FOR TWO DAYS NOW BACK TO 1/4 STRENGH
5ML BAC2LIFESTOPPED
1ML CANNA BOOSTSTOPPED
foggyman Reviewed by foggyman on . YELLOW NEW GROWTH WITH YELLOW VEINS ON THE OLDER LEAVES STUNTED GROWTH HI THERE EVERY ONE THIS IS MY FIRST POST HERE SO HELLOW TO YOU. NOW MY PROBLEM.... What is your experience level? (first timer growing with proper kit, 10years reasearch and outdoor growing exp.) What type of hydro set-up are you running? im running a 20L 5 plant NFT WITH ADDED 90MLH FOGGER. 2X110L AIR STONES, 30L header tank. Your Equipment: A) Type and wattage of lights. (MH, HPS, CFL's, tube fluorescents, LED's) HPS DUEL SPECTRUM 600WATT, STANDARD BALAST. Rating: 5