Quote Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome
Been waiting for a hydro guru to answer, but I guess they are...unavailable.

I'm no hydro guy, but looking over your troubleshooting form, I'd quit the carbonated water, lower humidity and just use your nutes as directed till you figure it out. Most hydro nutrients programs have all you need, so you might want to stop with the additives, as they might be adding to a lockout situation where the plant can't uptake anything. Once you figure out the stress, perhaps you could resume their use, unless they are the cause.

The carbonated water clogs the pores, and is the likely source of the duskiness and the powdery shit. Rinse all the leaves off with a gentle spray (top and undersides) with properly ph'd water. The sugars in the carbonated water makes everything sticky, and attracts bugs, too. Not worth the impercievable benefit, if any.

More air circulation, and/or less spraying/fogging. When flowering, you'll want to keep the humidity levels down to avoid bud rot and mold.

Also, is 24" as close as you can get the bat-wing? Since she's stressed right now, it's likely a good idea to raise it a tad, but is that normally where you keep them? (sounds kinda far)

Hopefully someone with hydro experience will come along to offer advise about your levels and schedules and such.

Good luck.
hey there mate and thanks for helping out....

i think you might miss understand me on a few points.

first of all carbonated water does not have any sugar in it at all.. the chemical signature is h2co3 =h2o(water)+co2(carbon dioxide). i also make my own by adding co2 to ro water.
it has been proved that folar spraying with h2co3 is the best way to add co2 to the plant.

the residue is not from the carbonated water(aka carbonic acid) it was coming from the humidifier. as this was effectivly folar feeding with tap water.

humidity for the groth cycle is 50-70%RH only in the later part of flowering say from week four onward would you reduce the RH to 40% to stop bud rot. lower humidity levels than stated close the stomata..

i am using my nute the way thats directed. im using a lower level than stated by canna.

the additives i use have been stopped but are very important. some people pythoff i use bac2life which is a natural micro culture. boosts the roots and eats pyrythium. protects the plant inside and out also.

i use silcon for disease protection and to increase the thickness and lushness of the stems and leaves

as for more air circulation i have a total of 560 cubic meter per hour going through a space the size of a double wardrobe??????? i think thats about 3.7 times more than is recomended by the cannabis bible. but dont quote me. humidity ios not a problem for me.

the spraying was only to folar feed mag,zinc etc. and only started this after seeing the problem.
folar feeding by the humidifier has been discontinued...

the fogger was placed in the res, so that the fog came up and into the root zone. in NFT systems this is covered to eliminate evaporation. in the first week of adding this the quadrupled in size. as im supper cropping. the growth was outwards. covering about 2-3inches a day of outward growth. i realy do believe that this was the problem and was over saturating my rockwool cubes. i dont know if i said but the pump that feeds the res was 90% blocked and so there was virtualy no flow of air rich water to the root zone. add to this the 100% humidity caused by the fogger. and you have an oxygen def.

over watering i have found can cause lock outs of many nutes mostly noticable are zinc,iron,mag,sulph,cal.

the hight of the reflector is 24inches now but has been @ 18inches untill the problem showed its self. since then i have backed off to 24inches to give them some time to heal....

its all doing my head in and i have already gone back to basics.
removed the fogger, humidifier, misting with ro water and 15ppm A-Z micronutrients, light moved to 24inches, ph double checked with fish shop. actual nutes checked(cal,mag,iron,GH,Kh,) all within the canna range.

i have always used the same method stated in the lucas formula to work out how many often i need to do a res change.

also if im feeding to little the ph will drop and if im feeding too much the ph will drop. mine is very stable.

i also build up the nute strength untill the plants showed tip burn then i dropped back by 0.2ec. plants then grew at 2inches per24hours untill the problems started....

things are returning to green and i have added back in the silicon. i will not need the humidifier anymore thank god. i want to use the fogger again as this is the future of cannabis growing. the fogger need more working out i think a side by side test will be done soon.

as for complicated setup. its all so easy to maintain. compared to soil growing nft is the easiest system i have ever run...

as i said this is the first time i have used a fogger and this is the first time i have ever overwater a plant since changing over to nft. i have never had problems like this before.

reference pictures on the net show multiple def's in my plants. as the ph is fine and im staying tight on the nute and additives the only other thing that can cause lthese types of lock outs grouped together is overwatering...

i have added five pics so you get a better view of what im faced with. these are from today and so there not as bad as 3days ago.

i totaly appreciate your help guys but.... i need help on quite an advanced level.

i need some one who uses nft of foggeres if theres any out there..

or a plant doctor..