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This is great Oldmac.. But I think the PAD Manuel totally disputes that article.
Here is one example....
(c)The photoperiodic response is controlled by phytochrome.
I think this is incorrect!!! If you have been following along with sal and all his post (like I have). He has pointed out that his research has proved that the photoperiodic response in the MJ plant is mostly controlled by the Blue light duration. Not phytochrome!
Here is another example of the PAD manuel totally disputing that article..... The PAD Manuel uses KNOW uvb light at all and can double the THC content at a minimum by using 24 hours of light...
My next post........ I will tell you what the manuel doesn't say about our favorite plant.:thumbsup:
I was just having a discussion (read argument) with my partner about PAD and what we might do with it. One of the problems we have is the lack of info that has been forthcomming. It would be nice to see some numbers for the technique and results of it's use. Even without it, we are extremely interested in it, and have made the decision to build a new LED light that has the reds and blues on separate circuts to utilize the advanced PAD technique.
As to photochrome, these protiens play off 660nm light vs. 730nm light and are responceable for the under canopy stretch etc. From what I read in the PAD manual that is exactly one of the plant's functions that are being exploited by PAD. More possibly photoperiod is more a function of blue light, but that 730 is some sort of plant trigger.
While I believe that trichome rippening can be accomplished without UVb (Dreaded Hermie hit amber trics with just red and blue!) we have had a few experiments here that clearly shows it's effect on trichome maturing. I still have a 2gm/plant finished weight differential if I don't use UVb thru out flowering so it's effect may be more then just turning trichomes amber.
I'm looking forward to more info and finished numbers to see how fast or deep we jump into PAD.
*UCKING LIGHT BULBS....*AMN finally a new use for something old,Thanks and a high five for the links and info.so how useful do you think these would be for the last 3-5 weeks of flowering?I flower under 3-400w HPS until the last 3-5 weeks and then they enter the 400w MH section of my flowering room. 15 years ago i started paying attention to the trics and saw that most were still clear at harvest time under 100% HPS . adding the MH has allowed me to achieve the 50/50 clear/cloudy ratio i like but i would like to shorten the final ripening time.also I notice the bulb you link to is a "enhanced spectrum" bulb doesn't this mean it has added blue?i can,t seem to find a source for wavelength charts for this or any halogen bulbs.
Hopefully Dogz can answer that question about the bulb, I have not used it enough yet, in a controlled enviorment to confirm it's effects on trichome production/maturity, yet.
I can tell you that bulb puts out a large amount of far red (730nm) light.:thumbsup:
So how useful do you think these would be for the last 3-5 weeks of flowering? I would like to shorten the final ripening time. Also I notice the bulb you link to is a "enhanced spectrum" bulb doesn't this mean it has added blue? I can't seem to find a source for wavelength charts for this or any halogen bulbs.
Yes these bulbs will work good for the last 3-5 weeks of flowering. When I was told to use clear inc's for a far red 730nm spectrum.. I wasn't told how to correctly use them so to speak. I thought I was supposed to run them at the same time as the HID lights were on. But when I tried to run 300w of inc's at the same time the 400w HID was on, the room was way too hot with 700 watts running as you could imagine. It turns out of course I was doing it wrong...LOL I have since been able to read some stuff. This might sound crazy but I now run the 300 watts of clear inc's for the first 6 hours of my flowering time then I run the 400 watt HPS HID for the last 6 hours for a total of 12on 12off. This is what's now called Rauber's Substitution Method. This works very well for me. I have also started mixing in some 27K cfl's and pulled some of the clear inc's with the first 6 hours of light. This is because the strain I'm currently working with, it seems the 27k cfl's increase the calyx to leaf ratio and the clear halogen inc's promote good trich production and internal plant clock speed. Here is another trick to do with clear inc's the same bird told me. Use clear inc's only the last 3 to 5 days of flowering to speed up ripening. This makes the diamonds sparkle even more on the flowers and brings out the flavor. There is a drawback to doing this. Plants that are ripened like this will not re-veg. If you are going to try clear inc's only for the last 3-5 days of flowering for a quick ripening make sure you plane on pulling them and not re-vegging them..
I use the bulbs I showed you in the link. Halogen bulbs have a little more 730nm well, they have a lot more 730nm IMO but standard clear inc's can also be used. As far as the "enhanced spectrum" goes. It was the only halogen I could find that screwed into a standard light socket so I grabbed it. Turns out IMO they work very good. I can find a halogen spectrum chart I think but it's not for this enhanced spectrum. It's on this board in Mother 2nd Martian tread. hope this helps.. Hope everyone had a good holiday.
Thanks for clearing up the confusion I had about the leaf CELLS turning on edge. I really thought you where trying to tell me the leaf edges were turning thier edges to the light, and I really did not see how that was possible. The thykaloid disk packs makes sooo much more sense now. Thanks for that.
I found reference in a Rutgers' paper to an increase in "green leafy plant material" due in part to high levels of light activivity or "increases of UVb light", mentioned in a paper dealing with CO2 utilization.
Yo Rusty,
Big thanks for the posts, there is little doubt in my mind that trichomes are where the magic happens and are not designed as plant defense mechanisms, but are in fact designed to collect and condense light (specifically UVb) and act as cellular factories to produce THC.
Your friends idea of using UVb during veggative growth is most interesting of all from a usefullness angle. It makes sense that since the cannabiniods or at least thier percursors all start off during the veggative stage, UVb may play a role earlier in the plants developement then I had thought. I need to do some more reading (right here even to start) and digest this some more.
yet another reason to start outdoors i have always thought plants grown outdoors then switched to indoors are more potent to an extent this is obviously the science behind it
this site is by far the most informative website i have ever invested my time in
our members have infinate
knowledge of the herb
I now run the 300 watts of clear inc's for the first 6 hours of my flowering time then I run the 400 watt HPS HID for the last 6 hours for a total of 12on 12off.
is this just to control heat/energy usage or is it needed for for the plants to respond properly to these wavelengths? to put it differently...is my HPS/MH wasted while the INC's are on?
Sorry to hear that, bleaching the ho's make them look so cheap.
Not sure if it is excess UVb or more from the concentration of red being too close. I think Weezard managed to light bleach some girls under LED, very specific light wavelength's, just red and blue and he uses no UVb. So you can do that without UVb.
Not sure there is much you can do, just hope for some new leaf growth and an improvement in appearence. And don't put that CMH so close next time, I think that's easy to do since I believe they run cooler then HPS.:thumbsup: