UVb an experiment

[oldmac]

yet another reason to start outdoors i have always thought plants grown outdoors then switched to indoors are more potent to an extent this is obviously the science behind it
this site is by far the most informative website i have ever invested my time in
our members have infinate
knowledge of the herb

High there smoke_and_fly,

It's a interesting concept to start outdoors then flower indoors. Opposite of what Weezard has been doing, when his girls are done he takes them outside and gives them a few hours of tanning in the mid day sun. Major advantage he has is living in Hawaii. I've been hoping someone would do the experiment Rusty had proposed, starting rooted clones under UVb to see the effects on it's use from the beginning. Maybe we could convince Weez to try starting outdoors then bringing them in.

[Weezard]

Quess who light bleached the fuck out of his two plants...3 weeks into 12/12?...

any remedies?..besides moving further from the light?...I took the CMH out and switched to HPS? ...two other grows...the CMH never did that before?

I would post a pic...but,... I am ashamed....:stoned:..I screwed the pooch on this one...

Too Much UVb?

Say it ain't so, bro.

You are not alone.
Switching to HPS should help but might cost another day.

Growth will resume in a few days either way.
Gonna be jus' fine

The Peroxide blonde tops?
I leave them on as ornamentation.:hippy:
I calls 'em da bimbo buds.

Aloha
Weeze

[Weezard]

Hey DP,

Sorry to hear that, bleaching the ho's make them look so cheap.

Not sure if it is excess UVb or more from the concentration of red being too close. I think Weezard managed to light bleach some girls under LED, very specific light wavelength's, just red and blue and he uses no UVb. So you can do that without UVb.

If it's not IR, I'm sure it's the blue.
Higher frequencies pack more energy.
My girls only bleached under the blue leds though some were closer to the reds.


Not sure there is much you can do, just hope for some new leaf growth and an improvement in appearence. And don't put that CMH so close next time, I think that's easy to do since I believe they run cooler than HPS.:thumbsup:

Yup! even easier with leds 'cause there's less radiated heat.
Also worth knowing, that MJ stops growing at around 91K lux.
Here's another case where overkill will hurt you.
Just like water, and nutes;
"More than enough, is too much!" - me.

Keep yer toes warm.
Weeze

[Weezard]

High there smoke_and_fly,

It's a interesting concept to start outdoors then flower indoors. Opposite of what Weezard has been doing, when his girls are done he takes them outside and gives them a few hours of tanning in the mid day sun. Major advantage he has is living in Hawaii. I've been hoping someone would do the experiment Rusty had proposed, starting rooted clones under UVb to see the effects on it's use from the beginning. Maybe we could convince Weez to try starting outdoors then bringing them in.

Would do.
But no can!

The other advantage to living Hawaii, is constant ~12 hour days.
Any long day strain started outdoors here goes autoflower.
Even on June 21st our nights are too long.

Course I could start some outdoors and supplement with 2 hours of light in the morning or evening.
If, I had a big enough bloom room.

That, and I'm convinced that UVb is more harmful than helpful in a vegging plant.
I like to leave the risky:weedpoke: to folks that can better afford the loss
How about it, 7th?! You game?

What I've settled on, is a LED veg. to half the height I want. Then in the sun with a UVa-b filter of polycarbonate to stretch, fatten-up buds and pile-on the trichs without frying them back off.

Then out in the full sun for that Coppertone tan.
Works a treat for "tailoring" of the high!:stoned:

Now have a "spice rack" of different "side effects"
Come try some.:thumbsup::jointsmile:

Aloha,
Weeze

[DreadedHermie]

It's a interesting concept to start outdoors then flower indoors.

Been many years since I tried that (usually precipitated by early winter or a compromised grow area). Bugs that were a minor annoyance outside sometimes became major infestations when their plant hosts were brought indoors, though. I remember that much...:jointsmile:

[Dogznova]

is this just to control heat/energy usage or is it needed for for the plants to respond properly to these wavelengths

Yes the HID is very strong and I could not see justifying 300w of inc's that I couldn't tell were even on. I did not have privilege to reading the manual at that time. Once I was able to read the manual (witch was a few months before the link was posted in this tread) I quickly figured out why it's not worth running the inc's at the same time as the HPS was on...... Time factor manipulation..........It's not easy manipulating the HID's time factor when it's on. It's much easer manipulating the plants 24 hour time factor.

So let's explain some Time Factor stuff as I see it. THC is at it's highest production with a time factor of 1.6 to 1.8. If you look at table 4.1 in the manual you will see that the sun has a time factor of 1.7. Indoors with the Martian Method you can run an average time factor of aprox 1.8. Quite the trick if you ask me and lets not forget what 17 hours of 660/730 trichome pumping light will do.

HID has a time factor of 3.6. Not much THC being produced here. Although most people would beg to differ.. They just never smoked PAD weed before. LOL. Anyway back to the HID, in order to get the HID's time factor down to roughly 1.8 ish or hell even 2.0 when the light is on is beyond my reach. IMO the amount of clear inc's that would need to be used when the HID was on is not what I wanted. HID is strong all the way down to the floor and it's hard to manipulate it's time factor. Lucky for use the plant uses a 24 hour cycle so there is plenty of time to pick and chose when to manipulate the plants time factor.

The Martian Method uses the whole 24 hour day. If we are just talking about time factors here the Martian Method uses a 425/660nm spectrum (1/2 hour combined on then 425nm only for a 1/2 hour on) with a 2.1 time factor for 7 hours a day and then uses a PAD lighting cycle of 660/730nm (1/2 hour on of 660nm then 1/2 hour on of 730nm) with a 1.4 time factor 17 hours a day with a combined 24 hour time factor of roughly 1.8.. You can do this above method with HID and it's best to do it with metal halide. The metal halide replaces the LED 425/660nm part of the equation but it's not as good for THC production but it works great for bulk IMO. If you were to look at the above equation using HID instead of 425/660nm LED it would go something like this. Using HID with a 3.9 time factor for 7 hours a day and PAD lighting using 660/730 spectrums in 1/2 hour on cycles each with a 1.4 time factor for 17 hours a day you could come up with a combined 24 hour time factor of somewhere around 2.5 ish I would guess. This is still a much better THC result then just a HID 3.9 time factor for 12 hours.

Doing a standard 12/12 type of flower like I do. You only get what you can get. I manipulate half of the 12 hours I have the lights on. It's the simplest method. So doing rauber's substation method fits me good. I work with an already strong strain under standard HID 12/12 type of flowering. So manipulating 6 hours of the 12 hours the lights are on gives me a better result then a standard 12/12 HPS flower. I would recommend playing around with the first 6 hours of your on time with clear inc's and do like I did throw in some 27k cfl's. That is another thing CFL's on the other hand as you know are not as strong as HID so it much easer to manipulate the CFL's time factor when they are on. I have found that I can run CFL's and inc's at the same time and get very good results. I also have run just straight inc's for the first 6 hours. IMO it all depends on the strain I guess.. Wow that's alot for me.. Time to smoke..

to put it differently...is my HPS/MH wasted while the INC's are on?

No your inc's are wasted..

[seventhchild]

I'm convinced that UVb is more harmful than helpful in a vegging plant.
I like to leave the risky:weedpoke: to folks that can better afford the loss
How about it, 7th?! You game?

not for UV! All 12 of my parents children have bad eye sight , I don't want to be the first to go blind . I have chosen far red to experiment with.

[Weezard]

not for UV! All 12 of my parents children have bad eye sight , I don't want to be the first to go blind . I have chosen far red to experiment with.

Good move!

I'll be watching your far red trial.
I was not impressed with mine, but I went outdoors for flowering under UV filters, and now have free far red to burn.
So, I didn't really give it a full trial indoors.
Do you plan a side by side? Some with, some without?

Just point me at it.

Aloha,
Weezard

[seventhchild]

I flower under 3-400w HPS until the last 3-5 weeks and then they enter the 400w MH section of my flowering room.

This is how i grown the past few years and even though its worked well it is time for a change [mid-life crisis?].First i must decide on a far red light source but am having trouble finding light charts. then i will have to decide how to space the new lights among the old for even distribution. then wire in a new contacter and timer. DAMN no wonder i haven't changed my setup in so long.
anyway to answer your question Weezard i think a side by side followed by multiple dual chamber bio essay tests would be the best way to gage results and is how i hope to do it.

[seventhchild]

I use the bulbs I showed you in the link. Halogen bulbs have a little more 730nm well, they have a lot more 730nm IMO but standard clear inc's can also be used. As far as the "enhanced spectrum" goes. It was the only halogen I could find that screwed into a standard light socket so I grabbed it. Turns out IMO they work very good. I can find a halogen spectrum chart I think but it's not for this enhanced spectrum. It's on this board in Mother 2nd Martian tread. hope this helps.. Hope everyone had a good holiday.

I was unable to find the chart in the 2nd martian tread but i did find this one but it stops at 700nm. does anyone have a link for incandescent spectrum charts? also..... it seems that if you change the voltage going to an INC you change its color....110 volts gives a different spectrum than 120 volts ....