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05-10-2009, 06:16 PM #1OPJunior Member
A Little bit of Everything to ask
Hello to all, iam new to this forum and to growing as well so i have a few questions that i hope some of you might be able to help me with.
a few things first, this is my first grow..and iam on day 29 now.
1. iam running on 24/7 light, is it better to go right to 18/6 then 12/12, or should i just go to 12/12?
2. how do i know when to go to 12/12 to start flowering?
3. do i need a HPS for flowering?
4. do my babies look like there ready to flower?
Thanks in advance to all you guys for your help...trancehead Reviewed by trancehead on . A Little bit of Everything to ask Hello to all, iam new to this forum and to growing as well so i have a few questions that i hope some of you might be able to help me with. a few things first, this is my first grow..and iam on day 29 now. 1. iam running on 24/7 light, is it better to go right to 18/6 then 12/12, or should i just go to 12/12? 2. how do i know when to go to 12/12 to start flowering? 3. do i need a HPS for flowering? 4. do my babies look like there ready to flower? Thanks in advance to all you guys for your Rating: 5
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05-10-2009, 07:16 PM #2Senior Member
A Little bit of Everything to ask
Hey Trance, looking good there. Most of your questions (and many more) are answered in the FAQ section... but here goes
"1. iam running on 24/7 light, is it better to go right to 18/6 then 12/12, or should i just go to 12/12?"
This one is constantly debated, many people think that the dark period in 18/6 gives the plants time to recover and to develop their root structure while 24/7 is potentially stressful. Realistically it seems to come down to personal preference, regulating grow room temps and power consumption, many differing opinions; if you look around you'll see great looking grows that started both ways. Starting 12/12 from seed is generally not recommended as seedlings need time in veg. growth to establish a root structure.
"2. how do i know when to go to 12/12 to start flowering?"
Again there are many differences in opinion on this. Some say to hold off on flowering until you begin seeing alternating growth (i.e. new growth isn't in symmetrical pairs). Others say wait until the plants show sex. It seems, though, that as long as the plant is well established and healthy you can pretty much put it into flower when it gets to a size that you're comfortable with. Of course the smaller your plant is when it goes to flower, the less potential it has for production. Remember though that the plants will increase greatly in size during flower, so if space is a concern you can flower earlier. Again there seem to be many approaches on this, and many great grows resulting. Some breeders actually recommend that indoor growers start flowering their bigger Sat strains as soon as roots are established.
"3. do i need a HPS for flowering?"
No, but it would probably improve your results.
"4. do my babies look like there ready to flower?"
They would probably be fine, but you should probably let them veg for a bit longer.
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05-10-2009, 07:37 PM #3OPJunior Member
A Little bit of Everything to ask
thanks for you help man, iam sure i will posting on here more often
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05-10-2009, 07:35 PM #4Senior Member
A Little bit of Everything to ask
I sort of misread your first question. I haven't seen a whole lot of compelling arguments for stepping down the lighting schedule from 24/0 to 18/6 before flowering. From what I've read just switching to 12/12 should be fine without the intermediate step. Do a search for "photoperiod" "light/dark cycles" and things like that, there's lots of stuff floating around from the plain old silly to the highly technical.
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05-10-2009, 08:01 PM #5Senior Member
A Little bit of Everything to ask
also, just a tip
ditch the drip-trays you have under your pots. When you water them just pull them from your grow space and water them over a sink or over something else to catch the run-off water, then once they have finish dripping put them back in the grow space.
The reason I said this, is because the drip trays will keep the bottom layer of soil very very wet and mud-like, which will cause root rot in your plants, which could potentially kill them.
You might also want to add some dirt to the top so stale air doesn;t sit in the top of your pots. You can add dirt up to the point of the stem where the cotyledons are
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05-10-2009, 08:02 PM #6Senior Member
A Little bit of Everything to ask
actually, you may want to pull the root ball and add more dirt under it, they are pretty far down in those pots
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05-13-2009, 03:26 PM #7OPJunior Member
A Little bit of Everything to ask
how the hell can u get them out and dirt under it...there way to big for that and pulling them will rip the roots......but thanks for all the advice...it does come in handy...
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05-13-2009, 03:43 PM #8Senior Member
A Little bit of Everything to ask
You would do it the same way you would normally do a transplant to a larger sized pot, except in your case, your going to put it back in the same pot, just with extra soil added under it.
absolutely do not try and just pull the plant out of the soil.
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05-13-2009, 03:54 PM #9Senior Member
A Little bit of Everything to ask
if your plants have taken up the dirt, to transplant you should be able to tilt the pot on it's side and SLOWLY work/slide it out. If it has taken up all the dirt space then you can transplant. Most of the time if all the space is taken up it should be fairly EASY to take out. Just don't straight rip it up, even though I had a plant the last go around that I could just grab by the bottom of the stalk and lift straight out the pot...roots, dirt, and all! It's all really dependent on your root structure you got going on....
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05-13-2009, 03:58 PM #10OPJunior Member
A Little bit of Everything to ask
LOL!! rip it right out...thanks guys right after i read this i just tipped em over holding around the stem and the whole thing just dropped into my hand, i got it now....