Prepared for the worst- Stinky??

[pfunk211]

The cuttings' pellets got misted once with 1 drop of superthrive and one drop pf 6-4-4 in a quart of water for a bit and the dome was misted with that same mix for a week or so then I switched to straight water.
The flowering plants get one drop per gallon of ST and only once did I get up to a 1/2 strength nutrient mix from the normal dose of 1/4. I've only mixed Grow Big and Morbloom once, after the flush, and they were both at 1/8 strength. They've only gotten molasses once, 1Tbsp/gal and that is just before I noticed the "burn" the worst.

The cuttings exhibit an entirely different set of symptoms. Number one, not rooting. Two, sporadic yellowing. Three, leaf tips curling up into tight little horns.

I only notice "burn" or "spots" on the fan leaves, too. The growth underneath is lush and green....

I test the pH regularly by watering one plant a little extra, 100ml or so, catching the runoff and measuring it with a pH test kit for aquariums, three drops and blue-blue green.

Here's another, almost related question:

A 20-20-20 nutrient solution at 1/4 strength would be a 5-5-5 solution, right?
Is there any need to dilute a 6-4-4 then?!

[pfunk211]

I did notice, during a transplant into bigger bags, that the most effected plant's roots were oh-so-not-white, rather brown but not "mushy". This was after the molasses dose, so I figured maybe they were stained, but the others were pretty much snow white.

I lost three Philodendrons to root-rot over the winter.

If one cutting from an infected plant was introduced to my humidity dome, the whole dome would be lost, right?

Coincidence??

Could it only take one gnat with one spore attached to fuck me?!

I can't get past this idea of fungus even though I have been meticulous with my watering/feeding schedule.

I'm pulling (what's left of) my hair out here!

[BeFree]

20-20-20 and 5-5-5 is the same thing. It's Ratio's I believe.

[Rusty Trichome]

Just a couple of suggestions...
Clones:
Nitrogen and hormones (ST) can slow or prevent root formation.
No nutes or molasses for clones till well rooted.
When misting the dome, clean, ph'd water only. You don't want to feed the leaves, you want to force her to form roots to feed herself.
Open dome once or twice a day for a few minutes. This provides fresh air and mold prevention, but never let the pucks dry-out.

Adults:
I'd back-off the molasses. Most I use is 1 tsp per gallon, once a week at most. Otherwise I start to see yellowing, spotty neckrosis on fans, and bright yellowing of the new growth. (if I let it continue without flushing, that is)
I'd stop mixing the nutes from different manufacturers. Plus, Grow Big is a veg nutrient not intended for flowering plants. Is that why the weird ratios and quantities...?
Morebloom is 0-10-10, right...? Way too much potash.
Testing runoff with the aquarium ph test kits is deceiving. The tinting of the water skews the results, and are thusly inaccurate. Works great for clear water, though.

I'd Flush the ladies well, and while you are waiting for them to dry, see if you can get ahold of some quality veg nutes, and a solid flower nute, (I use and recommend the Fox Farms...even comes with a handy nutrient schedule online) but you'll need to get your N-P-K ratio's in line. With that much potash, I'm guessing your ph is way high as a result.

[pfunk211]

yeah, the only reason i mixed the nutes after the flush was to get a little nitrogen into the mix, since the morbloom is a 0-10-10. for some reason, i thought adding a 6-4-4 to a 0-10-10 would make a 6-14-14 and two 1/8 strength doses would make one 1/4 strength dose.

also, the aquarium test kits read bright yellow for anything under 6.0 and blue for anything over 7.0. i'm aiming for blue-green, about 6.8.

i never mix my solutions the night before, something i have read is done often as nutrient solutions become unstable? is this accurate, i.e, an adjusted solution will shift further as time goes on??

could the yellowing of your fan leaves after molasses be because the pH of molasses is 5.0 or worse? like i said earlier, i noticed the worst of the burn after i added molasses the first (and only) time.

[pfunk211]

something else and i can't believe i didn't consider/remember this before:

as seedlings, i almost lost one of my kids to damping off. it looked beat with the brown ring just at the soil line. i nursed it through because it was one of the only two purple g seeds i had left and didn't want to bin it. slowly, it grew into a young lady and was one of the first to give me cuttings (all of which are dead and gone) and be flowered. i marked the purple g with a blue paper clip. the plant i mentioned before with the oh-so-not-white roots has a blue paper clip.

so the little shit had a form of root rot when it was a seedling, right? and that doesn't just go away, right?!

it also makes sense that my plants are becoming symptomatic as i introduce them to my flowering room as that is where lady g has been since i threw the lights, i think.

fungus, fungus, fungus.......

in the future, i'll use rapid rooters instead of peat pellets and light warrior for seedlings/clones instead of ocean forest. happy frog is loaded with beneficial, too, i think.

since no damp has been pulled, does anyone have a suggestion of a good drench for killing root rot spores??

[Rusty Trichome]

No clue about the possible fungus, but I'm sure there's someone out there with experience in dealing with those issues, and I try never to comment unless I am pretty certain. I live in the desert where it's much easier to dry soil out, than it is to keep them moist enough to cause problems.

Use nutes the same day they're mixed, and stir before use.

If you use the same components every time time you fertilize, your ph may be ok, but I'd have to verify before committing to that. Hard to ph the water after adding nutes, unless the nutes are clear. But it would really be nice to get an accurate runoff ph number. And I'm not sure which would win the ph battle of the ingredients over the long-haul...molasses or potash.

[pfunk211]

I'm not sure what you mean, "hard to pH the water".

The nutes I use are clear and the water is pH neutral, so it seems pretty easy, lest I'm not as chock full of common sense as I think I am: I add pH Up to my acidic nutrient solution and all is well. It was a little more difficult to adjust when molasses was in the mix, but even with a brown tint it was pretty easy to see when brown/yellow turned brown/green.

I'm in the desert as well and still found it easy to be a little too liberal with my watering can before, as I, once upon a time, had to use miracle grow soil and tried to fix the pH problems it caused. Lesson learned the hard way.

This is why I'm dumbfounded now. I'm only using the best ingredients (aside mixing nutrient labels, which I will fix), measuring the amount of liquid that is administered and following validated advice to a T.

With cloning, I never had to do anything but cut them, dip them in hormone/fungicide, stick them in peat pellets and wait. within two weeks, I had roots, almost 100% of the time. After my "fungus grow", I follow the same procedure as I always have, only rather than the end result being roots, it's dead cuttings, yellow and spindly, twisted and sad.

I really wanted to save the stock; purple g is one of my favorites and strawberry cough is delicious and nutritious, but I fear that I am doomed.

I'll keep reading and will know one thing for sure within a couple of weeks. It may be too late.

Again, I appreciate your time and interest and am glad that you people care enough to help.

P

[Rusty Trichome]

My nutes are a geen, a brown, and a tan. I've also used nutes that were pink, yellow, red, orange, clear and purple, which was why I made the statement, and even included the 'clear' nute disclaimer. So what's the confusion...beyond thinking that just a little tint is of no consequence to a color chart. But as long as you are comfortable with an 'in the ballpark' number, so am I.

If you are looking for miracle cures for the fungus or whatever it is...someone else will have to assist. Honestly, I've never had a fungus or mold issue but would assist if I could.

I stated what I believe will help, and what preventative measures to take to increase chances of future success. I understand your wanting to save the strain, but given the info you provided, and previous posts...the only other thing I can think of is to take clones from healthy parts, use fresh soil, and keep the old soil away from the fresh. Before importing new clones though...perhaps a bleach wipe-down, and clean the pots with bleach, too.

[pfunk211]

don't know what i was thinking. the grow big is green and the morbloom is brown. when added to a gallon of water, they seem clear. guess that's where my head was.

when gauging pH, i guess i'm happy with a "ballpark", that is above 6 and below 7. the consensus is 6.3-6.8 in soil.

there were "miracle cures" for fungi on the market, e.g., no damp or hydroguard, but the fda has pulled them from the market. the lady at the grow store has something she says is "sure fire" against pythium. i don't remember the name but i remember the price tag; $70 for a like a 4 ounce bottle.

i'm more interested now in preventative measures for the next time. i thought i did a pretty good job cleaning before this round, but it seems i was wrong. i blame the goddamn gnats, the sneaky shits.

for anyone else reading, trying to figure out a situation like this- you cannot take cuttings/clones from a plant that is infected with pythium as it is systemic (works from within the plant). if a mother plant has it, the clones will have it as well. this i know from experience and i am pretty sure the fda has pulled any systemic fungicide from the market. if i'm wrong, please let me know- it would make my day.

thanks again for your help.