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03-31-2009, 03:58 PM #1OPSenior Member
saving a worthy girl..
H=Answer if you grow hydro or aero
C=Answer if you grow coco
S=Answer if you grow traditional soil
L=Answer if you grow soilless other than coco (Promix, Hyponex, SunshineMix)
R=Answer if you grow in RockWool
T=Answer if you grow in HydroTon
D=Answer if you run any type of automatic drip system, including into soil or soilless
E= EVERYONE needs to answer lol!
E-indoor
E-soil
CSL- fox farm happy frog
SCL-Anything you have added to the soil
SCLR-unknown
E-tap
E-7.8-8.0
HRT-Source water EC (if hydro)
E- mother is over one year, cuttings about 2 months
E- bio-grow, bio-bloom, bud-swel, 1-1-16 technaflora seaweed extract
E-Rate of application = 3 liters every 2 days
E-Lighting source and distance from plant= 250 watt switchable (hps right now) about 15-18 inches
E-Air temperature =76-79f
E-Air % Relative humidity= 27-37%
E-24/7
E-fresh air in from outside via inline fan, exhaust is scrubbed and vented into room that closet is located in via blower fan
TR-Did you pre-soak your media in pH corrected solution?= no but my water is phed down to 6.2 with earth juice ph down before nutes are added
so the story starts feb 08,
i received 10 clones which i vegged for awhile some were placed outside (6), some were flowered inside under my 250 (3) and one was kept as a mother for clone production and future flowering.
so the mother plant was taken out of cfl veg (she was neglected for a time and nearly died due to not being watered) re-potted into fox farm happy frog and was fed bio grow (3ml per liter) for a period of about 2-4 weeks.
it was at this point that i started noticing that some lower leaves were staying green but drying out and becoming crunchy, i also began to notice that other leaves in the same area began to show yellow patches in between the veins turning to brown with eventually the entire leaf turning black and crunchy. then it traveled up the plant and began affecting new growth
i checked my tap waters' ph with a liquid ph kit and found it to be nearly 8.0
i checked the runoff at this point as well and found it to be around 7.0
i began adjusting my waters' ph down to 6.0-6.5 and flushed for about a week
the yellowing and necrosis seemed to stop for a period of time, cuttings were taken and the plant was put into 12/12.
slowly the yellowing/browning/ necrosis began to come back on old and new growth but not to the point where i felt i needed to do much about it. flowering continued as normal.
the cuttings were placed in peat pellets after being dipped in clonex gel and placed in a humidity dome under cfl lighting.
here the cuttings were quick to root but the same problem continued even after being transplanted. their growth is sparatic with the problem seeming to get worse as the cuttings aged. some of them started shooting new growth up from the base of the plant and the rest of the original cutting(stem and all) suffering from necrosis.
meanwhile... the one year old mother that has been flowered is now revegging with tons of fresh healthy shoots just waiting to become new plants . the problem is now (after a month of revegging) im starting to notice some yellowing and even some browning in some of the older revegetative growth, no necrosis yet but im sure its on the way.
what to do?
i've never had a def. problem like this when mixing up my own soil....is happy frog just total crap or what? could my nutes be expired (seems worse during veg)? should i flush and get some cal mag plus?....is my humidity so low that the plant is transpiring its self to death?
i dont wanna plant any beans until i get this straightened out and the outdoor season is quickly approaching.
PLEASE HELP!!!!!:wtf:wman44 Reviewed by wman44 on . saving a worthy girl.. H=Answer if you grow hydro or aero C=Answer if you grow coco S=Answer if you grow traditional soil L=Answer if you grow soilless other than coco (Promix, Hyponex, SunshineMix) R=Answer if you grow in RockWool T=Answer if you grow in HydroTon D=Answer if you run any type of automatic drip system, including into soil or soilless E= EVERYONE needs to answer lol! Rating: 5
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03-31-2009, 05:25 PM #2Senior Member
saving a worthy girl..
I've used happy frog before with good results.
the crunchy leaves sound like a nute problem. too much something. maybe N -- are the leaves a deep dark green and feel coarser than normal?
the necrotic leaves.. maybe related but taking a long shot -- problem sounds like it might be a fungus infection. not PM, but something like black spot or rust spot.
if it is a fungus infection, you can use Ortho's Rose Pride on her. follow the directions and HEALTH Safety. It is a systemic fugicide. Her cuttings should grow just fine w/out chemical issues.
I hope someone proves me wrong here....
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03-31-2009, 07:06 PM #3Senior Member
saving a worthy girl..
Originally Posted by MdmPele
Most likely it's an overnute situation, or too many additives. If you were to list all products you use, quantiities and schedules for you vegging ladies, and your flowering ladies, I'm sure we can figure it out. (will require seperate details for each light schedule) :thumbsup:
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03-31-2009, 10:18 PM #4OPSenior Member
saving a worthy girl..
as always thanks for the replies!
well my feeding schedule is pretty simple and i never stopped to think i could be over feeding so here it is....
veg:
products used: bio-grow 1.8-0.1-6.6, technaflora soluable seaweed extract 1-1-16
every 2-3 days i check the soil for dryness, early in veg i use 2 ml of bio grow per liter applied with a turkey baster, two weeks before flowering is induced the seaweed extract is added at 1/4 strength for every other watering and the bio grow increased to 5 ml per liter
flower:
products used: bio-bloom 1-3-2, liquid budswel .01-0.1-0.01, technaflora seaweed extract 1-1-16
every 2-3 days i check soil for dryness, early in flower i use no bio bloom, 1/4 strength seaweed extract(every 3 waterings) and 20 ml of budswel per 3 liters of water, 2-3 weeks into flowering the bio-bloom is introduced at a rate of 5 ml per liter along with the 20ml budswel, at 5 weeks the budswel is increased to 35 ml per 3 liters and the seaweed is removed from the equation, followed by flushing when the trichromes tell me so (75 amber, 25 cloudy) until harvest.
this plant were talking about was harvested at 60 days
mabye its time for a flushing with some distilled water??root trimming and repotting??
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04-01-2009, 01:24 AM #5Senior Member
saving a worthy girl..
Originally Posted by Rusty Trichome
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04-01-2009, 02:22 PM #6Senior Member
saving a worthy girl..
Where to start...
First off...You'll need a really good flush with properly ph'd water.
This is a prime example of why we shouldn't chose different nutrients from different companies. This 'doubling-up' of nutrients, metals, hormones, vitamins and micronutes...not good at all.
Always check the ingredients in the products you chose to apply to our ladies, not the marketing-driven description of what the product may provide your plants. (complete honesty is not always their goal...but selling product is)
Techniflora: "natural source of over 60 chelated nutrients, vitamins, amino acids and hormones"
Bio-Grow: "Enriched with 70 trace elements and vitamins B1, B2, C and E, Bio-Grow is a complete fertilizer."
Budswell: "a mix of high-phosphorus bat guano, worm castings and seabird guano"
Would love to see pictures of your ladies before offering any advise beyond the flush, but continuing with these nutes will frustrate the crap out of you, and you'll never get quality results.
If you can, go get a 3-part (in three seperate bottles) nutrient system. (grow, micro, bloom) BioBizz, Botanicare, Fox Farms...(for instance) all have nutes that work well for cannabis, and if you use the same companies products throughout your grow, you usually wont have this overlapping of excessive nutes and shit.
(The Techniflora is reportedly full of heavy metals, which builds-up and can kill plants if excessive)
Any pictures?
Also...good luck on waiting till trichomes are 75% rusty. 10% rusty trichomes is fine, and beyond that are diminishing returns. (your shit will go downhill fast) By the time they reach 75%, your buds will be full of popcorn seeds. (over-maturing is a good way to force her into hermaphrodism...which is not good)
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04-01-2009, 11:10 PM #7OPSenior Member
saving a worthy girl..
thanks for the quality advice rusty!
actually i've used these nutes like this for 2 other harvest and they came out great. the bio grow and bio bloom are pretty much empty and i've been wanting to try something so this is the perfect reason to start fresh.
ill get her flushed and healthy before i cut clones.
a quick question though, would this be a good time to try some root ball trimming? or would it be too much stress for the revegging old beauty?
the plant was showing signs of needing repotted. she's in a 12inch square planter and it would be nice to get her into some fresh soil.
about the pics though, i have a camera but i havent bought a new card reader since i lost my old one, mabye one day...
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04-02-2009, 02:30 PM #8Senior Member
saving a worthy girl..
Originally Posted by wman44
Originally Posted by wman44
If truly necessary, trimming the roots is acceptable, but it will result in a stunted plant that takes forever to 'catch-up'. (can take three weeks or more to recover from the mid-cycle root-assault)
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04-07-2009, 03:19 PM #9OPSenior Member
saving a worthy girl..
Cool. Regardless of your claims, it's still not recommended to mix manufacturers...for reasons previously stated.
with that said.....
were about a week into the flushing (i've flushed 3 times, 2 gallons every 2-3 days)
last night i decided to do a little monitoring of what was happening in my soil
tap water is at 7.0-7.2
i use earth juice ph down to bring the ph down to 6.0
i flushed one gallon of water, the runoff was brown/yellowish but very translucent. this runoff was tossed and another gallon of ph adjusted water was used, this time the runoff was even clearer but still had a yellow tint to it.
i checked the ph of the runoff and i cant be 100% sure of it due to the tint of the water being tested,but the ph read at, get this.........7.5!!!
:wtf:........
also the yellowing/browning/curling/blackening of the leaf and leaf tips seemed to be getting better for the first few days but now it seems to be coming back....
again thank you in advance for any thoughts/comments/suggestions
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04-07-2009, 03:59 PM #10Senior Member
saving a worthy girl..
i don't need to defend rusty,nor am i trying to. what i think he's saying is no matter how good your harvests were, or that you think that were (not an insult) that they could have been better if you stick to one set of products. that's the way they are intended to work.
for example too much zinc or copper are toxic for your plant and can cause death of your ladies.
those are trace elements, so they are needed only in trace amounts. if two of the three or more of your products have these elements in them can you now start to see how this could possibly start to be harmful to your ladies.
you also fail to mention previous strains you grew then, or are growing now. keep in mind that different strains can have very different needs. (nutritional, light, what have you)
-shake
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