H=Answer if you grow hydro or aero
C=Answer if you grow coco
S=Answer if you grow traditional soil
L=Answer if you grow soilless other than coco (Promix, Hyponex, SunshineMix)
R=Answer if you grow in RockWool
T=Answer if you grow in HydroTon
D=Answer if you run any type of automatic drip system, including into soil or soilless
E= EVERYONE needs to answer lol!


E-indoor
E-soil
CSL- fox farm happy frog
SCL-Anything you have added to the soil
SCLR-unknown
E-tap
E-7.8-8.0
HRT-Source water EC (if hydro)
E- mother is over one year, cuttings about 2 months
E- bio-grow, bio-bloom, bud-swel, 1-1-16 technaflora seaweed extract
E-Rate of application = 3 liters every 2 days
E-Lighting source and distance from plant= 250 watt switchable (hps right now) about 15-18 inches
E-Air temperature =76-79f
E-Air % Relative humidity= 27-37%
E-24/7
E-fresh air in from outside via inline fan, exhaust is scrubbed and vented into room that closet is located in via blower fan
TR-Did you pre-soak your media in pH corrected solution?= no but my water is phed down to 6.2 with earth juice ph down before nutes are added


so the story starts feb 08,
i received 10 clones which i vegged for awhile some were placed outside (6), some were flowered inside under my 250 (3) and one was kept as a mother for clone production and future flowering.
so the mother plant was taken out of cfl veg (she was neglected for a time and nearly died due to not being watered) re-potted into fox farm happy frog and was fed bio grow (3ml per liter) for a period of about 2-4 weeks.
it was at this point that i started noticing that some lower leaves were staying green but drying out and becoming crunchy, i also began to notice that other leaves in the same area began to show yellow patches in between the veins turning to brown with eventually the entire leaf turning black and crunchy. then it traveled up the plant and began affecting new growth
i checked my tap waters' ph with a liquid ph kit and found it to be nearly 8.0
i checked the runoff at this point as well and found it to be around 7.0
i began adjusting my waters' ph down to 6.0-6.5 and flushed for about a week
the yellowing and necrosis seemed to stop for a period of time, cuttings were taken and the plant was put into 12/12.
slowly the yellowing/browning/ necrosis began to come back on old and new growth but not to the point where i felt i needed to do much about it. flowering continued as normal.
the cuttings were placed in peat pellets after being dipped in clonex gel and placed in a humidity dome under cfl lighting.
here the cuttings were quick to root but the same problem continued even after being transplanted. their growth is sparatic with the problem seeming to get worse as the cuttings aged. some of them started shooting new growth up from the base of the plant and the rest of the original cutting(stem and all) suffering from necrosis.

meanwhile... the one year old mother that has been flowered is now revegging with tons of fresh healthy shoots just waiting to become new plants . the problem is now (after a month of revegging) im starting to notice some yellowing and even some browning in some of the older revegetative growth, no necrosis yet but im sure its on the way.

what to do?
i've never had a def. problem like this when mixing up my own soil....is happy frog just total crap or what? could my nutes be expired (seems worse during veg)? should i flush and get some cal mag plus?....is my humidity so low that the plant is transpiring its self to death?
i dont wanna plant any beans until i get this straightened out and the outdoor season is quickly approaching.
PLEASE HELP!!!!!:wtf:
wman44 Reviewed by wman44 on . saving a worthy girl.. H=Answer if you grow hydro or aero C=Answer if you grow coco S=Answer if you grow traditional soil L=Answer if you grow soilless other than coco (Promix, Hyponex, SunshineMix) R=Answer if you grow in RockWool T=Answer if you grow in HydroTon D=Answer if you run any type of automatic drip system, including into soil or soilless E= EVERYONE needs to answer lol! Rating: 5