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03-01-2010, 01:28 PM #11
Senior Member
Calling out to Weezard for LED advice
I'm very confused as to how you managed to infer what you just stated from my post.
Originally Posted by thepaan
http://www.emc.maricopa.edu/faculty/...BK/pigment.gif - something from an educational facility. http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_pFQ0wrHWd1...pectrum_en.jpg - there's another.Where is this stuff saying blue light is better for driving photosynthesis?
Depends on the plant being studied - not every plant responds the same - every species has vastly different requirements. For example Tradescantia pallida actually thrives under yellow and green light, which is why it does so well on the forest floor and in well-shaded areas. If you have the materials to conduct a colorimetric analysis, you will see that against a blackbody emitter, a tube filled with chlorophyll actually allows more red light to pass through than blue light. Actually, you can do this with a light bulb and a test tube full of centrifuged chlorophyll - put the light next to your head, hold tube in front of your face - the tube appears to be filled with green fluid. Put the tube between your face and the light, you see mostly red.All the studies I've read say that photosynthesis only occurs at around 50% peak rate on blue light alone
Red is required for photomorphogenesis, root development, and for vegetative growth. Blue is for control of certain day-night reactions, seasonal identification, and most importantly, for actual plant growth and bulk. This is why CMH and MH are the recommended primary HID light source by large commercial-scale horticultural operations, and not HPS.the peak being around 670 nm. Blue light is only required for
physiologicial and morphological responses.
Those NASA-conducted studies are old, and they recanted half of them, their new panel design has 33% blue, 67% red.Again, all the studies I've read say between 8 and 20% of your light should be blue - depending on the plant.
That again depends on the species of plant - The phytochrome can also respond to the ratio of red versus blue and the intensity of both wavelengths in order to determine seasonal changes.Also, flowering is a phytochrome response. It is triggered by the length of the dark period - not by the blue:red ratio of light.
No, it will not eventually flower without regard to light color or duration unless you're growing a Ruderalis. How do you think we keep mother plants for decades?Weed is a short day facultative plant. If you have long dark periods you will be able to accelerate (or short nights will slow) flowering but it will eventually flower regardless of the light color/duration.
I think you have the misconception. I do this across the globe and don't get paid to be wrong. If I was wrong and selling a bad product, I'd have been sued already.I really don't understand why so many people have this misconception.
I knew I should have saved that picture or site link, because my panel manufacturer couldn't believe it either - but they were growing some sort of lettuce (THICK AS HELL) under 1:2 blue:red light. It's on one of the mission pages I was browsing through earlier this morning. I know it wasn't the PESTO mission page. Drat, which one was it?Show me this latest NASA panel design too. I might have to eat my words here in the next few days. :P
Rest assured, more blue is the way to g - why else would manufacturers of those UFO LEDs with the "optimized" 7:1:1 ratio be suddenly selling 'supplementary' blue panels - if the ratios were optimized to begin with, why do you need a supplementary panel?
Also, the guy "stra8outaweed" on the forums will testify - more blue = better yield. Check his grows out.My (defective) Micro SWC 50W LED Grow
My Krusty Bucket 120W LED Grow
Blue-Dominant LED Flowering Test
My official LED grow Journal
I design grow lights for horticultural firms across the globe, and not just LED either, ask me anything!
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