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02-11-2009, 02:15 AM #1
Senior Member
First attempt at a 24-hour "Martian Method"
Like using HPS or MH Dog, it depends on what you want to achieve.
Originally Posted by Dogznova
I would investigate the following Inc. Bulbs for the following reasons:
Black:
Also Knows As (AKA) Blacklight (often abbreviated BL) or Blacklight Blue (often abbreviated BLB). As a Far Red Source, but has no real photosynthetic output and runs hotter than the others converting the light it absorbs to heat. It's basically the fastest of the Darkness spectrums and can be used to hasten photoequalibrium transitions from Artificial Light and/or Artificial Darkness to faster Darkness and AD spectrums. Technically this is a form of SOD (Standard Outdoor Darkness), not SID, but all AD dynamics apply (just as they do with all spectrums, something to consider with our new expanded understanding of spectrums thanks to the discovery of AD spectrums and how they work!!!)
Red:
Basically Black with Red added to the spectrum, so it is a form of AD (PAD) being that it is photosynthetic, but since it absorbs more light than the (following) rest of the AD families, it's hotter than the rest and pretty much has the least amount of photosynthetic energy available compared to Orange and Yellow.
Orange:
Short version, AD that's intermediate between Red and Yellow, more photosynthtic than Red but less than Yellow, safer in avoiding Blue and faster than Yellow and moreso than Green.
Yellow:
See Orange. Covers it. Depending on the pigment used, might not be as functional at removing Blue from spectrum.
Green:
The least safe AD at blocking Blue and might only work with additional filtration to eliminated Blue, but provides the most photosynthetic light energy for an Inc. AD source. Slowest AD Inc. source, but still faster than non-Far Red AD sources, so it speeds up things when combined with other non-Inc. AD sources.
Clear:
NOT AN AD (PAD) SOURCE, since it contains Blue and can be used as a Blue trigger source if used at enough intensity, but basically less effective than other Blue sources (watt per watt/FT^2). Less light loss converted to waste heat and pretty much the generic source for Far Red when conbining with other Artificial LIGHT sources when doing NON-AD spectrums. If you really want the most from your Inc. Far Red wattage use, using Clear Inc.'s for your Blue light (light's on, day) time is best (on the Blue source's timer), but turning AD Inc.'s OFF while leaving the other AD sources ON with the Blue source (ON) means additional timers and complications (So of course I go there with yet another timer!!! BUT YOU KNOW WE'RE DARK AND STRANG HERE AT TEMPORAL PHOTONICS!!!) So the question is, "How much fun do you want to have?" (You thought synchronizing 2 timers was fun! Howz about 3?!!!...)
imp: :wtf:
:thumbsup:
:stoned:
Sorry it I'm having too much fun! :stoned:
Yeh, that's enough thread jacking of now.
(Careful what you wish for questioners)
Take Care Kiddies, Sal.salmayo Reviewed by salmayo on . First attempt at a 24-hour "Martian Method" In order to keep track of events, at the request of some online friends, and in order to share the love with the rest of the cannabis community, I'm starting my first grow log using the Martian Method, which I learned about from a very helpful Salmayo, here: http://www..com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=30203&highlight=Martian and it has also been discussed in another thread on this board, starting at post 1438: http://boards.cannabis.com/indoor-lighting/150174-perfect-led-grow-light-58.html Rating: 5
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