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10-28-2008, 02:19 PM #16
Senior Member
pH in hydroponics (auto-drip coco)???
Did someone say coco nut? lol
I'm reading through the thread. I'll put my thoughts in here soon.
And polishpollack.. you're wrong on all accounts. I've been watching your posts and you've been spreading some really bad information around. If anyone takes your advice you're going to screw over their crop.
Well apparently you weren't aware that it DOES matter to monitor your PH. Sit down and shush until you can learn to spread good advice.Wobster, the issue being asked about is pH, not TDS/PPM. I was aware of this but I don't think you were.
No, perhaps you were the one who was mistaken. When dealing with a sick plant you want to cut back on the strength of your nutrient solution. Truth be told you could run PH'd water with just some calmag in it and your plants would probably be fine for a while.Weedhound, you told Blizzin in another thread to drop his ppm to around 600 from 1200. That will kill his plants, yet you pass around this bad information freely. Perhaps you're the one who is mistaken?
Lowering your solution strength is key to diagnosing symptoms in a plant. The idea is to lower it to the point to where it's not likely that nutrient lockout is occuring due to another nutrient but still keep it at a dosage where the plant can feed. In addition a high PPM solution can be hard on the root system if the roots are sick.
Sit back and shush until you can give good advice.
While PH rising once through the day won't kill you; if you leave your plants like that for 2 days or more then they can suffer a number of issues. Being out of your PH range will cause a number of deficiencies and lockouts that are all linked to each other. Essentially causing a chain reaction which will erupt in a multitude of symptoms making it very difficult to diagnose.Watch pH in a hydro grow, but what I was saying was don't try to fight it too much. Even some of you who say that nalani's plants look good must be saying something about the pH. Nalani says it raises and they can't keep it down, and you folks tell her to watch the pH closely but the plants look good.
Rather than do that why not check your res 1 - 2 times a day and make sure you're in the correct PH range.
Again sit back until you can give good advice.
You're right.. you don't make any sense.Makes no sense.
Majority of all problems result from PH issues. In soil or coco or soiless you have possibility of creating a ph situation even if you are always watering with ph 6.5 water. Reason being is that nutes break down into salts (if you are not using organic nutes or something with a chelating agent like molasses); this creates issues in the soil chemistry making it difficult for you to ever bring it back within range if you haven't been flushing the plants on a semi regular basis.With people in these forums it's always pH nute lockout here and pH nute lockout there. I don't get it. You just end up chasing one problem after another.
In hydro even going from let's say 5.8 to 6.3 an create a significant amount of lockout issues which in turn are linked to other nutrient uptake or plant symtpoms.
For instance, a K lockout can create conditions that leave your plant looking droopy and sad. Reason being is that K is responsible for the turgidity in guard cells which open and close the stomata. When they lose their turgidity the stomata stays closed and it is unable to breath or transpire correctly; in turn leaving you with a sad looking plant.
Now this doesn't always happen, but it's an example of a situation that is genuinely a lockout but you wouldn't ordinarily guess it was.
Again.. sit down and shush until you can give good advice.
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